Yeah, that's how I did mine (copper ring). I've also read somewhere on here that someone just drilled and tapped a threaded hole in the element itself. Right on the metal ring. That seems like a pretty good idea if there is room. Better contact.
Donate a RIMS heater photo??
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SHvanBommel
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i'd stumbled on this a long time ago and just completely forgot about it! thanks!
Hey guys. This is my first post here, been lurking for a bit but this thread prompted me to register and post.
Now on to the reason for my post. I really like the RIMS heater desing and when I saw it the first thing I thought, was how easy it would be to ground this device vs some of the other designs. Have you considered using a store bought ground clamp instead of the copper ring or drilling the element?
Clamps similar to this one MONARCH 965 Clamp; Pipe Bonding Bronze For 1/2 To 1 Inch Water Pipe are used to bond water and gas pipes to ground and would seem to be perfect for this. I had to put this in my last home to comply with code and they can be purchesd from the local big box for a few bucks.
Now on to the reason for my post. I really like the RIMS heater desing and when I saw it the first thing I thought, was how easy it would be to ground this device vs some of the other designs. Have you considered using a store bought ground clamp instead of the copper ring or drilling the element?
Clamps similar to this one MONARCH 965 Clamp; Pipe Bonding Bronze For 1/2 To 1 Inch Water Pipe are used to bond water and gas pipes to ground and would seem to be perfect for this. I had to put this in my last home to comply with code and they can be purchesd from the local big box for a few bucks.
missing link
Well-Known Member
Slimer.
Use the copper mounting clamps I included with your element and just put the mounting screw threw the eyelet I put on the green wire. The copper will complete the circuit through the tube.
There is no danger from having the element touch the side of the copper tube. It is just a hot resistor at that point.
I recirc at full throttle during the mash. In other words I open the valves fully once I am doughed in. This helps maintain more even temps.
I power 1 element, 1 pump and 1 Love control from 1 15 amp outlet. I power another element and pump from a second circuit in my garage.
On a 5 gallon batch I see about 2 degrees per minute temp rise. Most days I set up before dinner, get everything running and go inside for an hour, when I come back out, I am ready to dough in, then I can disappear for another hour and put my son to bed.
I generally watch the sparge and boil fairly closely.
Linc
Use the copper mounting clamps I included with your element and just put the mounting screw threw the eyelet I put on the green wire. The copper will complete the circuit through the tube.
There is no danger from having the element touch the side of the copper tube. It is just a hot resistor at that point.
I recirc at full throttle during the mash. In other words I open the valves fully once I am doughed in. This helps maintain more even temps.
I power 1 element, 1 pump and 1 Love control from 1 15 amp outlet. I power another element and pump from a second circuit in my garage.
On a 5 gallon batch I see about 2 degrees per minute temp rise. Most days I set up before dinner, get everything running and go inside for an hour, when I come back out, I am ready to dough in, then I can disappear for another hour and put my son to bed.
I generally watch the sparge and boil fairly closely.
Linc
missing link
Well-Known Member
I apologize. The picture is a bit of a mess. You can see where I ran the green wire from both elements to a grounding clamp. There is no need to buy the $7 clamp when the copper mounting clamps will work just as well.
I guess you could say the mounting clamp and eyelet are version 2.0
Linc
I guess you could say the mounting clamp and eyelet are version 2.0
Linc
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