American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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grevengrevs said:
I have brewed the extract version of this 3 times now and will finally get to brew the all grain version soon. I must say this is by far the the drink I like best and as my skill improves so does the beer. Bottled the first batch and kegged the last two. All were great! Thank you for sharing this recipe.
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I'm glad you like it- we love it in our house and I still brew it often.
 
So I just racked this into the secondary on top of the dry hops.

Thing is sitting at 1.012 (8% abv). No clue how it got that low haha but whatever. Had a taste, yummy. Can't wait to carb this up.
 
Just tasted mine after 8 (or is it 10?) days of dryhopping mine. I think I must have messed up my bittering additions somehow, as this is waaaaaay more bitter than I remember.

Oh well. It'll drink just fine :mug:
 
Drinking this right now. Thanks Yooper! Great recipe and great beer. I had a suspicion that this was going to be good so I brewed it again before the first batch was ready. Unlike the first batch, I missed my numbers on the second, so I will likely have a pale ale but it will still be hoppy and delicious!
 
I just brewed this recipe (extract version) and got an OG of 1.081. My boil was approximately 2 to 2.5 gallon in a 3 gallon kettle. Will the higher OG be ok?
 
jblamb1401 said:
I just brewed this recipe (extract version) and got an OG of 1.081. My boil was approximately 2 to 2.5 gallon in a 3 gallon kettle. Will the higher OG be ok?
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You used 9.5 pounds of liquid extract, or 7 pounds of dry? If so, that's fine. If you used more than that, that'd be ok but it might be a little bit under-bittered for the OG.
 
Just cracked the first one open today. Finished at 7.6% abv. Was absolutely delicious. What a phenomenal recipe. Never tried actual DFH but damn, this is one of the better IPAs I've had.
 
I just brewed this recipe over the weekend as my first all grain full volume BIAB. Without reading through this entire thread, I am wondering what everyone is using as an ideal mash temp. I'm making a 5.5 gallon batch so I added 14 pounds of grains to 7.5 gallons of strike water that was at 161F. After mixing in the grains, my starting mash temp was at 154F (I was shooting for 153). After a 75 minute mash, the temp had dropped to 150F. I'm thinking I should be good here but was just curious on the mash temps most people were using for this recipe.

I got an OG of 1.067 and it's already fermenting away with WLP001 so I'm pretty pleased so far with my first all grain full volume BIAB.
 
bradford0113 said:
I just brewed this recipe over the weekend as my first all grain full volume BIAB. Without reading through this entire thread, I am wondering what everyone is using as an ideal mash temp. I'm making a 5.5 gallon batch so I added 14 pounds of grains to 7.5 gallons of strike water that was at 161F. After mixing in the grains, my starting mash temp was at 154F (I was shooting for 153). After a 75 minute mash, the temp had dropped to 150F. I'm thinking I should be good here but was just curious on the mash temps most people were using for this recipe.

I got an OG of 1.067 and it's already fermenting away with WLP001 so I'm pretty pleased so far with my first all grain full volume BIAB.
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I shot for 152F, 60 minute mash. I was very satisfied with this brew, so much so that I just brewed it again over the weekend. Again shot for 152F but missed it by a degree (151F). Not worried, I'm sure yours will be fine. I used WLP001 last time (don't worry if the primary smells extremely pungent, that's normal). Turned out great, but this time I'm trying S-05.
 
good afternoon bros,
i did this beer. sg 1.075 fg 1.038 = 7% alc.
it was pretty fine when i bottle it (just a little bit alcohol in taste).
today is 2 weeks after i bottled and its pretty harsh-alcoholic.. how could it happened? any idea?
i did mash 152° 60 min, then 75°, sparge 75°, boil 60min.
primary 7 days, secondary 7days, cold crash 24 hours.
i put 2 packs of nottingham beacuse airlock was silent.
 
I'm guessing you mean your FG was 1.018 based on the 7% abv?

My first guess is your fermentation temperature was too warm. Is that a possibility?
 
Anybody step it up to a 10 gallon batch? No results searching the thread. Just double everything?
 
Just started the boil on this, but I probably changed it up too much to still be considered "this" recipe.

12 lbs 2 row
1 lb thomas fawcett amber

.75 oz Warrior FWH
1oz Equinox @ 35
.75 oz Australian Summer @ 15 - 0
.5 oz Amarillo @ 10 - 0

I plan to dryhop with 1.5 oz of Amarillo and .25 oz of Australian Summer.
I'll ferment with Wyeast's Witbread Ale yeast for about two weeks, then dry hop for one.

Last time I followed the recipe except adding .5 oz of Citra during the boil and .5 oz of Citra for dryhopping. It turned out pretty great, but it was still very similar to the original. Looking to branch out a bit more.
 
My second batch of this is in the keg, and like my first batch, the color is way off. It's very light compared to the original. I'm substituting crisp amber for the thomas fawcett. Anyone else having this issue? How much do you think I should bump up the crisp amber next time?

Here is a pic from my post back in September...

GmfHfNm.jpg
 
Crisp amber is 27 L while Fawcett amber is 90-110 L according to their site. I'm confused by the wide disparity between two amber malts. Yooper does specify the latter though, albeit in small amounts.
I imagine they taste different. Which do you prefer?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
railwalker said:
Crisp amber is 27 L while Fawcett amber is 90-110 L according to their site. I'm confused by the wide disparity between two amber malts. Yooper does specify the latter though, albeit in small amounts.
I imagine they taste different. Which do you prefer?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Click to expand...

That's pretty significant... and certainly explains my color.
 
Did my first all grain attempt of this on Monday and have it fermenting in the swamp cooler in the closet! Hope it comes out as great as the extract versions I have made of this.
 
Dry Hopped today but made a small error. Added 1.5 oz of Amarillo and .5 oz of simcoe. Pretty sure all will turn out well but still spazzed out a bit when I realized what I did.
 
So I am drinking this now, it sat in the keg for three weeks at 10psi. I used Biofine in this batch to get it cleared up, but I think I could have passed on it since it sat so long in the keg before I started drinking it. Flavor is awesome, and bitterness is right on. :ban:

I have another batch dry hopping in the secondary right now and just blew a keg of something else so I have room to move the second batch over after dry hopping is done. This is definitely going to be a routine brew for me. Thanks Yooper!

2015-03-03 16.25.04.jpg
 
I just picked up the grain and hops for this tonight. Will be brewing bright and early tomorrow on a rare mid-week day off. Yeast I have on hand are S-04, US-05, WLP001, or WLP013. A quick scan through this and other threads looks like folks have tried all of them. Which to use?
 
fimpster said:
I just picked up the grain and hops for this tonight. Will be brewing bright and early tomorrow on a rare mid-week day off. Yeast I have on hand are S-04, US-05, WLP001, or WLP013. A quick scan through this and other threads looks like folks have tried all of them. Which to use?
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WLP001 is my favorite. I don't use S04 much at all any more, and I rarely use S05 as it doesn't seem to clear that well compared to WLP001. I've also used Wyeast 1335, and that worked great.
 
It's interesting that you say that about US-05, Yooper. I have been a die hard White Labs guy, with Wyeast a close second, for many, many years now. Last year I tried US-05 and S-04 for the first time and was pleasantly surprised by both. The reason I find it most interesting is that as I write this I am drinking a pint of amber fermented with US-05 and I was just remarking to my wife how bright this beer turned out.

At any rate, WLP001 is what I was leaning towards for the DFH60.
 
Do you think it would work OK to sub:

Columbus for Warrior
Centennial for Amarillo
Chinook for Simcoe
 
Yooper said:
WLP001 is my favorite. I don't use S04 much at all any more, and I rarely use S05 as it doesn't seem to clear that well compared to WLP001. I've also used Wyeast 1335, and that worked great.
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I used S05 on my last batch of this. It's very clear.
 
I can't get Packman in Canada, so typically brew this with Denny's Favourite (Wyesat) and it turns out great. My last smack pack failed in my starter (it was too old) so pitched SF-05 and it's still good, but not as clean a finish. I'd use SF-05 (American ale) over SF-04 (British ale) because it's truer to the American IPA style of Dogfish and similar to Wyeast 1056. SF-04 is more of a bready British yeast.
 
3 weeks ago I made the extract version w/ 1056. 2 weeks in the ferm chamber at 64F. 1 week at 68F and today I racked it into the secondary with the dry hops. I can't wait to try it. When I made it my OG was a little low @ 1.062 so I added 4 cups of boiled sugar to the party. Hopefully the flavor doesn't change to much. My OG ended up being 1.072 and FG of 1.012. ABV is 8.1%.

My fridge is becoming full of Yooper Brew clones. Thanks for the great recipes!
 
I made the original recipe and it's a very good pale ale! Not to hoppy for those family members that are slowly converting from BL and MU! Yuck... I'll be making this one again and this time make sure I add the right amount of Amber malt!
 
Its been 8 days since I brewed this. I ended up using US-05 instead of WLP001 because I didn't have time to make a starter (WLP001 was collected from a previous starter overbuild, so starter is a must). Rehydrated yeast and pitched at 64° and held at 63-64°. It took off within 12 hours. Today I added leaf dry hops in primary. 1 oz of Amarillo and I bumped the Simcoe up to .66 oz because I love Simcoe and I had it on hand. The biggest surprise today was FG of 1.011 according to refractometer correction calculator. Of course I'll double check at kegging with my hydrometer. Still, this will be big!
 
I brewed the extract version of this last Sunday, 4/19. I pitched US-05 right around 70 and put it in a 65F ferm chamber. It took about 24 hours for airlock activity and it's picked up steam since then. I can't wait to try it.
 
I brewed the extract version about 2 months ago. I added gelatin into the keg 10 days ago and now it is crystal clear. The flavor is good, not great, but good. I'm moving to all grain and I'll be making this again. Next time I know this will be great.

View attachment 1429745817206.jpg
 
I'm going to use Yooper's recipe for my first AG attempt as I love DFH 60.

I've waded through 100 or so pages on this post but still have a couple of questions :

Following the mashing water volumes I intend to mash in and mash out. Can anyone tell me if I use the same amount of sparge water as stated in the BSM recipe if I batch sparge instead of fly?

Also I wanted to achieve a lower final alcohol content. Would reducing the base malt amount by 10% have any major negative affects?

Many thanks
 
Oh and one last question :

I'm in the UK so US 2 row isn't readily available. I've seen an extra light Maris otter EBC 2-4. Would this be a suitable substitute, or should I use standard MO but leave out the Amber malt?

Many thanks.
 
Poshlloyd said:
I'm going to use Yooper's recipe for my first AG attempt as I love DFH 60.

I've waded through 100 or so pages on this post but still have a couple of questions :

Following the mashing water volumes I intend to mash in and mash out. Can anyone tell me if I use the same amount of sparge water as stated in the BSM recipe if I batch sparge instead of fly?

Also I wanted to achieve a lower final alcohol content. Would reducing the base malt amount by 10% have any major negative affects?

Many thanks
Click to expand...

If you're batch sparging, the easiest thing to do is measure your first runnings and then use the sparge water to get to your boil volume.

For example, have plenty of sparge water hot and then once you drain your first runnings, just measure them. If you have, say, 3 gallons of first runnings and you normally start with 6.5 gallons in your boil, you'll need 3.5 gallons of sparge water.

You can guess about how much you'll need by doing just a little math. If you add up your mash water, and your water for mashing out, and subtract 1.25 gallons of water per 10 pounds of grain, you'll have a good guess of about how much you'll need.
 
If I want it slightly less bitter than the DFH 60, do I just use slightly less Warrior? If so less at boil or dry hop?

Also, hops that I won't use, how would I store them?

First ever batch of beer tomorrow using DME!!!
 

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