American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

[grevengrevs]

Did my first all grain attempt of this on Monday and have it fermenting in the swamp cooler in the closet! Hope it comes out as great as the extract versions I have made of this.

 

[grevengrevs]

Dry Hopped today but made a small error. Added 1.5 oz of Amarillo and .5 oz of simcoe. Pretty sure all will turn out well but still spazzed out a bit when I realized what I did.

 

[yukonhijack]

So I am drinking this now, it sat in the keg for three weeks at 10psi. I used Biofine in this batch to get it cleared up, but I think I could have passed on it since it sat so long in the keg before I started drinking it. Flavor is awesome, and bitterness is right on.

I have another batch dry hopping in the secondary right now and just blew a keg of something else so I have room to move the second batch over after dry hopping is done. This is definitely going to be a routine brew for me. Thanks Yooper!

 

[fimpster]

I just picked up the grain and hops for this tonight. Will be brewing bright and early tomorrow on a rare mid-week day off. Yeast I have on hand are S-04, US-05, WLP001, or WLP013. A quick scan through this and other threads looks like folks have tried all of them. Which to use?

 

[Yooper]

I just picked up the grain and hops for this tonight. Will be brewing bright and early tomorrow on a rare mid-week day off. Yeast I have on hand are S-04, US-05, WLP001, or WLP013. A quick scan through this and other threads looks like folks have tried all of them. Which to use?

WLP001 is my favorite. I don't use S04 much at all any more, and I rarely use S05 as it doesn't seem to clear that well compared to WLP001. I've also used Wyeast 1335, and that worked great.

 

[fimpster]

It's interesting that you say that about US-05, Yooper. I have been a die hard White Labs guy, with Wyeast a close second, for many, many years now. Last year I tried US-05 and S-04 for the first time and was pleasantly surprised by both. The reason I find it most interesting is that as I write this I am drinking a pint of amber fermented with US-05 and I was just remarking to my wife how bright this beer turned out.

At any rate, WLP001 is what I was leaning towards for the DFH60.

 

[corycorycory09]

Do you think it would work OK to sub:

Columbus for Warrior
Centennial for Amarillo
Chinook for Simcoe

 

[sejasba]

WLP001 is my favorite. I don't use S04 much at all any more, and I rarely use S05 as it doesn't seem to clear that well compared to WLP001. I've also used Wyeast 1335, and that worked great.

I used S05 on my last batch of this. It's very clear.

 

[Boegman]

I can't get Packman in Canada, so typically brew this with Denny's Favourite (Wyesat) and it turns out great. My last smack pack failed in my starter (it was too old) so pitched SF-05 and it's still good, but not as clean a finish. I'd use SF-05 (American ale) over SF-04 (British ale) because it's truer to the American IPA style of Dogfish and similar to Wyeast 1056. SF-04 is more of a bready British yeast.

 

[jmward21]

3 weeks ago I made the extract version w/ 1056. 2 weeks in the ferm chamber at 64F. 1 week at 68F and today I racked it into the secondary with the dry hops. I can't wait to try it. When I made it my OG was a little low @ 1.062 so I added 4 cups of boiled sugar to the party. Hopefully the flavor doesn't change to much. My OG ended up being 1.072 and FG of 1.012. ABV is 8.1%.

My fridge is becoming full of Yooper Brew clones. Thanks for the great recipes!

 

[COEBRA]

I made the original recipe and it's a very good pale ale! Not to hoppy for those family members that are slowly converting from BL and MU! Yuck... I'll be making this one again and this time make sure I add the right amount of Amber malt!

 

[fimpster]

Its been 8 days since I brewed this. I ended up using US-05 instead of WLP001 because I didn't have time to make a starter (WLP001 was collected from a previous starter overbuild, so starter is a must). Rehydrated yeast and pitched at 64° and held at 63-64°. It took off within 12 hours. Today I added leaf dry hops in primary. 1 oz of Amarillo and I bumped the Simcoe up to .66 oz because I love Simcoe and I had it on hand. The biggest surprise today was FG of 1.011 according to refractometer correction calculator. Of course I'll double check at kegging with my hydrometer. Still, this will be big!

 

[BMBC]

I brewed the extract version of this last Sunday, 4/19. I pitched US-05 right around 70 and put it in a 65F ferm chamber. It took about 24 hours for airlock activity and it's picked up steam since then. I can't wait to try it.

 

[jmward21]

I brewed the extract version about 2 months ago. I added gelatin into the keg 10 days ago and now it is crystal clear. The flavor is good, not great, but good. I'm moving to all grain and I'll be making this again. Next time I know this will be great.

View attachment 1429745817206.jpg

 

[guitarman31]

My homebrew is on the left and the DFH 60 min is on the right. Mine isn't quite a malty but has a much better hop aroma and flavor. Super happy with how this turned out.

View attachment 1430092804858.jpg

 

[Poshlloyd]

I'm going to use Yooper's recipe for my first AG attempt as I love DFH 60.

I've waded through 100 or so pages on this post but still have a couple of questions :

Following the mashing water volumes I intend to mash in and mash out. Can anyone tell me if I use the same amount of sparge water as stated in the BSM recipe if I batch sparge instead of fly?

Also I wanted to achieve a lower final alcohol content. Would reducing the base malt amount by 10% have any major negative affects?

Many thanks

 

[Poshlloyd]

Oh and one last question :

I'm in the UK so US 2 row isn't readily available. I've seen an extra light Maris otter EBC 2-4. Would this be a suitable substitute, or should I use standard MO but leave out the Amber malt?

Many thanks.

 

[Nagorg]

I'd say to use the light MO and keep the amber malt regardless.

 

[Yooper]

I'm going to use Yooper's recipe for my first AG attempt as I love DFH 60.

I've waded through 100 or so pages on this post but still have a couple of questions :

Following the mashing water volumes I intend to mash in and mash out. Can anyone tell me if I use the same amount of sparge water as stated in the BSM recipe if I batch sparge instead of fly?

Also I wanted to achieve a lower final alcohol content. Would reducing the base malt amount by 10% have any major negative affects?

Many thanks

If you're batch sparging, the easiest thing to do is measure your first runnings and then use the sparge water to get to your boil volume.

For example, have plenty of sparge water hot and then once you drain your first runnings, just measure them. If you have, say, 3 gallons of first runnings and you normally start with 6.5 gallons in your boil, you'll need 3.5 gallons of sparge water.

You can guess about how much you'll need by doing just a little math. If you add up your mash water, and your water for mashing out, and subtract 1.25 gallons of water per 10 pounds of grain, you'll have a good guess of about how much you'll need.

 

[GCarrabs]

If I want it slightly less bitter than the DFH 60, do I just use slightly less Warrior? If so less at boil or dry hop?

Also, hops that I won't use, how would I store them?

First ever batch of beer tomorrow using DME!!!

 

[Yooper]

If I want it slightly less bitter than the DFH 60, do I just use slightly less Warrior? If so less at boil or dry hop?

Also, hops that I won't use, how would I store them?

First ever batch of beer tomorrow using DME!!!

You could use less warrior if you want, but this beer isn't very bitter so you may not want to reduce them by much.

For extra hops, best is to vacuum seal them and store them in the freezer.

 

[GCarrabs]

You could use less warrior if you want, but this beer isn't very bitter so you may not want to reduce them by much.

For extra hops, best is to vacuum seal them and store them in the freezer.

Thanks Yooper!! Cant wait for tomorrow. DME is very expensive so maybe someday I'll learn the AG way

 

[Poshlloyd]

I'm not confident with yeast starters yet.
I have 2 x 11g packets of nottingham.
Will one packet pitched straight from the packet be seriously under pitching?

Thanks guys,
I'm all set to start this week.

 

[Poshlloyd]

Also, last question.
I'm going to batch prime before bottling.
Is 3oz priming sugar enough?

Many thanks

 

[Tegra]

Poshlloyd:

Hate to be a rebel.... But I think Nottingham can do anything! I use one pack (gently rehydrated and the temperature gradually stepped down) to do 13 gallons!

Others would say that is stressing but have seen no indication of such.

Tom

 

[Poshlloyd]

I think that's what I'll do then.
I hydrate one packet and pitch it on its own. 5 gallons of approx 1.070

 

[Yooper]

Also, last question.
I'm going to batch prime before bottling.
Is 3oz priming sugar enough?

Many thanks

I like my beer with more of a 'commercially carbed' level, like in commercial bottled beer so I'd go with 4-5 ounces in 5 gallons. Since you may end up with less than 5 gallons at the end due to hops absorbing some of the wort, I'd go with 4-4.5 ounces of priming sugar.

 

[Bermed]

Just brewed the extract version last night!

Thanks for posting the recipe. I'll post the results.

 

[GCarrabs]

Bottling tonight! Extract version. Tasted great when we racked to secondary last week.

 

[kingmatt]

Hey Yooper, just wanted to let you know I brewed a version of your 60 minute recipe using Ringwood and won the 'better than the original' category at the Clone Brew Wars competition for Philly Beer Week. Thanks again for the awesome recipe!