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American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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Hey Yoopers, kudos' for a great recipe. I have brewed the extract version twice with great success <hiccup> and now I want to give this a try for my first AG brew. My LHBS carries everything except TF Amber malt and I cannot find any online, either. So my question to you.. what would be a good substitution for the Fawcett Amber malt? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hey Yoopers, kudos' for a great recipe. I have brewed the extract version twice with great thesuccess <hiccup> and now I want to give this a try for my first AG brew. My LHBS carries everything except TF Amber malt and I cannot find any online, either. So my question to you.. what would be a good substitution for the Fawcett Amber malt? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Well, in descending order of preference (and I've brewed this beer many, many times in various permutations): TF amber malt; crisp amber malt; aromatic malt; biscuit malt; victory malt; crystal 60L malt; maris otter.

They've all been great, as this beer is about the hopping. But my favorite version has been with the Thomas Fawcett amber malt, by a lot. The second best was with Crisp amber malt. If I was out of amber malt, though, the aromatic malt version was very nice and I really liked the victory malt version as well.

I think I used brown malt in one, but I can't find those notes so I can't prove that.
 
Hey Yoopers. This will definitely become a staple around the house, so I look forward to experimenting with these malts. I did find an online brew shop that sell TF amber, but $18 shipping isn't worth 6oz. So my search continues... Thanks again for your assistance.
 
I'm brewing this today, and I was out of amber malt and didn't realize it!

So today's brew (10 gallon batch) is 22 pounds of two-row, 8 ounces of melanoidin, and 4 ounces of victory malt. It's what I had, so I decided to do it. I'm using magnum for bittering. The sparge is almost finished, and I'm measuring hops now. It smells soooooo good in here!:ban:
 
Happy National IPA Day everybody! Even though for most of us that's everyday. Let us know how that combo of malt works out Yooper, seems alot of people can't find the TF Amber.
 
buildzit said:
Any thoughts on using a WY2565 Kolsch. Have it sitting around from a BierMuncher Kona pale ale.

I'd like to hear those results, been thinking about a Kolsch yeast in an IPA.
 
Brewing this today! Am very excited as DFH 60 is the beer that got me into craft, and they no longer distribute anywhere near me. Also, my first time using leaf hops.
 
Whew! Turns out that "continuous hopping" is a bit of work! I was pretty diligent about it though, spreading the hop additions perfectly throughout the entire boil, throwing them in every 45 seconds or so. I have a good feeling about this one, it'll be worth it.
 
Chug said:
Whew! Turns out that "continuous hopping" is a bit of work! I was pretty diligent about it though, spreading the hop additions perfectly throughout the entire boil, throwing them in every 45 seconds or so. I have a good feeling about this one, it'll be worth it.

Damn, that's dedicated. But yes, it will definitely be awesome.
 
I am ten days into my first AG brew with this recipe. I made around a 5g batch. My cousin is telling me to dry hop right into the current carboy, trub and all. Is secondary really necessary? Am I opening a whole other debate/thread? I have another 5g glass carboy if everyone thinks a transfer to secondary is necessary. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
 
Primary two weeks, throw loose hops in primary at let sit for 7-10 days. If you can, cold crash for a day or two to help the hops floating around sink to the bottom. When you rack the beer to your bottling bucket or keg fasten a hop bag or 1 gallon paint strainer bag with a rubberband or zip tie around the end of the racking cane. This will help reduce the amount of hops/ trub from ending up in your final product.
 
Primary two weeks, throw loose hops in primary at let sit for 7-10 days. If you can, cold crash for a day or two to help the hops floating around sink to the bottom. When you rack the beer to your bottling bucket or keg fasten a hop bag or 1 gallon paint strainer bag with a rubberband or zip tie around the end of the racking cane. This will help reduce the amount of hops/ trub from ending up in your final product.

This is exactly what I do.
 
awesome! thanks everyone. Putting in another container for a week seemed pointless and risked introducing more brain eating amoebas.
 
shawnleary said:
awesome! thanks everyone. Putting in another container for a week seemed pointless and risked introducing more brain eating amoebas.

It's not pointless or necessary. For me it depends on how lazy I am or if I need the carboy to primary another beer. If you need to age something a bit most would agree to get it off the yeast cake after 3/4 weeks and into a secondary. Another thing to consider would be if you plan on washing the yeast to re-use it, not sure you want hops mixed in there.
 
Personally, I put them in a 1 gallon paint strained bag or muslin bag so I don't have to worry about excess hops floating around.
 
D_Nyholm said:
Personally, I put them in a 1 gallon paint strained bag or muslin bag so I don't have to worry about excess hops floating around.

That's fine if using a bucket but I don't recommend more than an ounce if you plan on getting them back out through the neck of a carboy.
 
Looking at the BJCP guidelines for an american IPA, and looking at the stats of the DFH60, it seems like this could be tweaked a little bit to deliver a more similar clone. I haven't brewed this particular recipe before, but I just thought I'd throw out some ideas. I'm sure this recipe is fantastic as MANY people have confirmed, but in my situation, I don't have the capacity to brew a 1.070 brew, and my friend is funding this one if I can get it anywhere close :D

First of all, DFH claims their 60 minute is 10-11SRM. Looking at the side by sides here, that doesn't exactly seem the case as the two-row/amber malt combo shouldn't produce anything higher than 5, and it seems to be pretty close to the DFG60... so screw adjusting that too much. You could always use crystal 60, but from the feedback of users that tried it, it seems they found the product to be too sweet.

Some of you have been claiming ABV's of upwards of 7-8%. Although none of us can turn down a great high ABV IPA with beautiful aroma... The 60 minute comes in at a 6.0ABV. I'm thinking to suit the clone better, maybe a 1.062-1.016 drop from OG to FG could hit nearly spot on 6%, while leaving the FG high enough to have that slightly malty finish.

Lastly, DFH claims their 60 minute has 60 IBU's. To lower the IBU count on this one, I figured it would be best just to drop the warrior to 0.5oz from 0.75oz and keeping everything the same. From the AA that are default for BS, this brings the IBU count down to 59.1.

this is the recipe I came up with. I figured I would leave the types of hops the same as yooper did as so many people enjoyed the combo, I just adjusted the amounts and changed the malts. Again, I'm making these adjustments because I can't mash much more than 12lbs of grain, and my friend wants a 60 minute IPA clone because its IMPOSSIBLE to get up here in Canada. Let me know what you think:

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP001
Yeast Starter: yes, 1.5L
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.062
Final Gravity: 1.016
IBU: 59.1
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 6.6 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees


6lbs american 2-row
6lbs marris otter
8oz caraAmber

0.5oz warrior @ 60 *continuous
0.5 oz amarillo @ 35 *continuous
0.5 oz simcoe @ 30 *continuous
0.5 oz simcoe (dryhop)
1oz amarillo (dryhop)

Mash at 153F for one hour. dry hop for last week of fermentation (no need to transfer to secondary)
 
I wouldn't use crystal malt- I'd stick with amber malt if you can possibly get it. If not, victory or biscuit malt would be a better choice than the cara- malts. Cara-amber especially- it's a bit stronger/darker than crystal 60L.

I don't really like marris otter in most American style IPAs (with the exception possibly of Surly Furious, which uses Golden Promise but it's similar). I'd go with US or Canadian two-row for the base malt. If you want more malt backbone, you could try Munich malt (say a pound or two) with the US two-row.
 
I wouldn't use crystal malt- I'd stick with amber malt if you can possibly get it. If not, victory or biscuit malt would be a better choice than the cara- malts. Cara-amber especially- it's a bit stronger/darker than crystal 60L.

I don't really like marris otter in most American style IPAs (with the exception possibly of Surly Furious, which uses Golden Promise but it's similar). I'd go with US or Canadian two-row for the base malt. If you want more malt backbone, you could try Munich malt (say a pound or two) with the US two-row.

So you think 11.5lbs of US 2-row with 1lb of either munich 20L or biscuit would make for a better recipe? I'll need to mash at 1.2 quarts/lb to fit it all in my mash tun. Dangerous or possible?
 
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