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American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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Finally got a first taste of a batch of this I brewed on 3/1. Turned out a bit sweet, but I was expecting that as it had a FG of 1.022 (OG 1.077). Hop-wise it's damn delicious but it's got an almost syrupy mouthfeel. Still happy with it, but it wants to be better, so I'd like to try it again.

Any ideas as to which of the below may have had the biggest impact on sweetness:

Used 1 lb of Crystal 60 instead of 40
underpitched yeast (confirmed at Mr Malty), two activated Wyeast (Pacman) packs, no starter
Fermentation started out on the warm side at 72F for 2 days, then I over-compensated taking it down to 65, then it fell to 60-63 for a week, then I raised it up in the end trying to get it to finish, but it was just done.

Thanks for any help. I think I'll go with less crystal next time, but also planning for sure to do a starter and monitor temps better.
 
Finally got a first taste of a batch of this I brewed on 3/1. Turned out a bit sweet, but I was expecting that as it had a FG of 1.022 (OG 1.077). Hop-wise it's damn delicious but it's got an almost syrupy mouthfeel. Still happy with it, but it wants to be better, so I'd like to try it again.

Any ideas as to which of the below may have had the biggest impact on sweetness:

Used 1 lb of Crystal 60 instead of 40
underpitched yeast (confirmed at Mr Malty), two activated Wyeast (Pacman) packs, no starter
Fermentation started out on the warm side at 72F for 2 days, then I over-compensated taking it down to 65, then it fell to 60-63 for a week, then I raised it up in the end trying to get it to finish, but it was just done.

Thanks for any help. I think I'll go with less crystal next time, but also planning for sure to do a starter and monitor temps better.

Was this an extract batch? It seems like it is, if you used crystal. I'm thinking that the main problem might be older extract, especially if it's liquid, and the underpitched yeast. You could try rehydrating some dry yeast like s-05, and then see if you can bring it down a bit. You've already got 7% ABV, but only 69% attenuation. If you're brewing a different beer, you may want to consider racking this beer to the yeast cake and see if you can coax out about 6 more gravity points. That would make the beer less sweet.
 
Yeah, sorry left a few things out there, thanks for trying to sort out my post.

It was an extract batch, and I thought the LME at my shop gets pretty good turnaround, but maybe not...

Also forgot to mention I already bottled it after I got an apparently bad hydro reading of 1.019 and moved it to secondary to dry-hop. Then at bottling it was 1.022, so I dunno...

So this one is what it is, and it's not bad. But I'd like to try this recipe again soon, so maybe I'll look at DME next time.

Thanks for the recipe and the help, Yooper!
 
Finally got mine brewed - been waiting on this for a while. It was my 3rd all grain. Pre boil gravity was a bit low, and I realized I used about a gallon too much sparge water. So I ended up boiling for about 70 mins at a higher flame. I was aiming for 5.5 gal in the fermentor, and ended up with closer to 5.75. SG was 1.067 vs the predicted 1.070, so I was quite happy in the end.

Can't wait to drink it now!
 
I am planning to do this as a partial-mash. For 5 gallons, I calculated the following:

2-row: 7 lbs
Caramel or crystal malt: 0.375 lbs
LME: 4.5 lbs

Does that make sense? I realize the hops need a "bump" for a PM or extract batch.
 
Thanks, YooperBrew. I will do this in my mini-mash-tun (built from a 2-gallon cooler) which has pretty good efficiency.

Hoping to increase the number of successful 60-Minute IPA clones by women by +1 next weekend!
 
Yooper i just wanted to say wow! This recipe is delicious I tried a few days ago at 3 weeks in the bottle and it was amazing. Aroma is everything I could want in an IPA and the taste has really developed! Hoping by week 4 week it will be perfect so I can get to drinking. By about what time do you think it hits its peak? Don't want to start drinking too early
 
I just made this AG recipe again and I can't figure out what went wrong. My OG was 1.066 and and my FG was 1.012, I also hit all my temps. I did 10 days in primary and 7 in secondary. I then kegged and put in the dryhops, I'm planning to let it sit a few weeks in the keg. I poured a small sample to see what it tastes like and the color is extremely light. It looks almost like a coors light. What could have happened? Would my lower OG cause this? My other attempts at this came out darker.
 
I'm new to AG - would CaraAmber be a suitable replacement for the Thomas Fawcett Amber? (The store didn't have any of the latter - CaraAmber was all I found...) Or should I just revert back to the Maris Otter?

Really looking forward to brewing this next weekend - I was just introduced to DFH about 3 weeks ago - all I could say was WOW!
 
I just made this AG recipe again and I can't figure out what went wrong. My OG was 1.066 and and my FG was 1.012, I also hit all my temps. I did 10 days in primary and 7 in secondary. I then kegged and put in the dryhops, I'm planning to let it sit a few weeks in the keg. I poured a small sample to see what it tastes like and the color is extremely light. It looks almost like a coors light. What could have happened? Would my lower OG cause this? My other attempts at this came out darker.

This is a light colored beer. SRM of 5 or so.
 
I'm new to AG - would CaraAmber be a suitable replacement for the Thomas Fawcett Amber? (The store didn't have any of the latter - CaraAmber was all I found...) Or should I just revert back to the Maris Otter?

Really looking forward to brewing this next weekend - I was just introduced to DFH about 3 weeks ago - all I could say was WOW!

I don't think I"d use the CaraAmber- that's a sweet malt I think. I've never used it, so I'm not sure exactly what characteristics it has beyond sweetness. If you have some Munich malt, or Victory malt, that might be closer to the flavor you are looking for. It's such a small amount so you could probably even do just 100% base melt, and leave it out, and not really notice because of all of the hops!
 
I don't think I"d use the CaraAmber- that's a sweet malt I think. I've never used it, so I'm not sure exactly what characteristics it has beyond sweetness. If you have some Munich malt, or Victory malt, that might be closer to the flavor you are looking for. It's such a small amount so you could probably even do just 100% base melt, and leave it out, and not really notice because of all of the hops!
Thanks for the advice - I'll leave the CaraAmber out and save it for another time - I'm pretty sure my LHBS has Munich - I'll get out there this weekend for the Big Brew and get some. Thanks! :mug:

(BTW - are the hops really noticeable in this brew? :D j/k)
 
Just finished bottling a partial mash variant of this recipe and if the hydrometer sample is indicative of things to come, it will be delicious.

I hit 1.074 SG, finished at 1.018 for ~7.5% ABV. Used S-05 yeast because that's what I had available.

My PM variant:

5 pounds 2-row
.5 pound crystal 40L
7 pounds LME
1oz warrior
.75oz simcoe
.75oz amarillo
(same dry hopping as original recipe)

Thanks for the recipe and all the feedback! I'll update when I crack the first bottle.
 
Thoughts on adding Apricots to this? If so, how and how much? I've been looking for something like an Aprihop so perhaps adding apricots to this will give me something of the like? MmmMmm Tasty
 
Thoughts on adding Apricots to this? If so, how and how much? I've been looking for something like an Aprihop so perhaps adding apricots to this will give me something of the like? MmmMmm Tasty

I don't like fruit beers, so I've never tried anything like that. I would think that will all of the grapefruity hops flavor that apricots would not work in this beer, though.
 
Thanks for the input Yooper, however, doesn't Aprihop also have grapefruity hops along with the apricots flavoring? At least if I recall correctly it does.... *shrug* Anyone?
 
Just opened my first bottle of this and after only 10 days it has exceeded my expectations. Great recipe, thanks for all the advice and knowledge spread throughout this thread.

I'll definitely be brewing this one again... maybe more hops next time. :D
 
i'm doing this tomorrow, with a some variation, but the numbers are fairly close to the actual beer. it's about 10 ibu's more and 1/2% stronger.

using whole leaf hops except for the warrior, which are pellets.

Type: Extract
Date: 5/17/2009
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: jason c
Boil Size: 2.50 gal Asst Brewer: wyatt h
Boil Time: 75 min Equipment: Brew Pot (4 Gallon)

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 59.52 % (at 75 minutes)
3.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 35.71 % (at flameout)
0.40 lb British Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 4.76 % (steeping grains)
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (Dry Hop 12 days)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (Dry Hop 12 days)
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (60 min) Hops 4.9 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (60 min) Hops 6.1 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (60 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (45 min) Hops 4.5 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (45 min) Hops 5.6 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (45 min) Hops 2.9 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (30 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (30 min) Hops 3.8 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (30 min) Hops 4.7 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (15 min) Hops 3.0 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (15 min) Hops 1.6 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (15 min) Hops 2.4 IBU
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)
1 Pkgs Ringwood Ale (Wyeast Labs #1187) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.070 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.010 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.020 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.005 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.56 %
Bitterness: 72.2 IBU
Est Color: 9.4 SRM

View attachment 60ipaclone.bsm
 
I was going to bottle this today, but when I moved my carboy, there was a lot of yeast stuck to the sides, which all dislodged and went back into the beer. I'll let it settle for a couple more days.

I did sample it, and took the FG.
I had a OG of 1.075, and the FG is 1.014. So 7.98% - wow.
 
i'm doing this tomorrow, with a some variation, but the numbers are fairly close to the actual beer. it's about 10 ibu's more and 1/2% stronger.

using whole leaf hops except for the warrior, which are pellets.

Type: Extract
Date: 5/17/2009
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: jason c
Boil Size: 2.50 gal Asst Brewer: wyatt h
Boil Time: 75 min Equipment: Brew Pot (4 Gallon)

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 59.52 % (at 75 minutes)
3.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 35.71 % (at flameout)
0.40 lb British Amber Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 4.76 % (steeping grains)
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (Dry Hop 12 days)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (Dry Hop 12 days)
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (60 min) Hops 4.9 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (60 min) Hops 6.1 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (60 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (45 min) Hops 4.5 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (45 min) Hops 5.6 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (45 min) Hops 2.9 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (30 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (30 min) Hops 3.8 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (30 min) Hops 4.7 IBU
0.25 oz Warrior [16.10 %] (15 min) Hops 3.0 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (15 min) Hops 1.6 IBU
0.25 oz Simcoe [12.90 %] (15 min) Hops 2.4 IBU
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep)
1 Pkgs Ringwood Ale (Wyeast Labs #1187) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.070 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.010 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.020 SG Measured Final Gravity: ?????
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: ?????
Bitterness: 72.2 IBU
Est Color: 9.4 SRM



brewed this today. added 5 lbs of the DME in at boil and then added 1/4 of each of the hops at 60, 45, 30 % 15 minutes. added 1 tsp irish moss at 15 minutes. added 3 lbs DME at flameout.

OG 1.071





is one package of yeast enough??? (too late, because it's all i had, but i'm hoping i'm cool.)
 
If you had an 11 gram package of dry yeast, that'd be barely enough. But if it's a liquid yeast, it's pretty seriously underpitched. It still should be fine, but might have some off-flavors because of stressed yeast.
 
If you had an 11 gram package of dry yeast, that'd be barely enough. But if it's a liquid yeast, it's pretty seriously underpitched. It still should be fine, but might have some off-flavors because of stressed yeast.

wyeast 1187 ringwood ale (liquid)


doesn't sound too good huh......


anything i can do at this point???


i do have a package of nottingham dry yeast.
 
wyeast 1187 ringwood ale (liquid)


doesn't sound too good huh......


anything i can do at this point???

Not really. Just wait it out. Ringwood ale yeast is also notoriously "lazy" from what BobNQ(I can't remember his user name- damn old memory!) posted in the past. Once it gets going, swirl the fermenter a bit, because I think it flocculates early. It also produces quite a bit of diacetyl, so make sure you keep it in the primary fermenter for at least 10 days or longer to reduce the diacetyl. It is noted for producing fruity esters, so keep the fermentation temperature under control, as well. I'd say keep it about 66 degrees for at least 10 days, and then taste for diacetyl. If it tastes buttery, or "slick" or oily, keep it there another 10 days or so. Taste again- to make sure the diacetyl is gonoe.
 
Not really. Just wait it out. Ringwood ale yeast is also notoriously "lazy" from what BobNQ(I can't remember his user name- damn old memory!) posted in the past. Once it gets going, swirl the fermenter a bit, because I think it flocculates early. It also produces quite a bit of diacetyl, so make sure you keep it in the primary fermenter for at least 10 days or longer to reduce the diacetyl. It is noted for producing fruity esters, so keep the fermentation temperature under control, as well. I'd say keep it about 66 degrees for at least 10 days, and then taste for diacetyl. If it tastes buttery, or "slick" or oily, keep it there another 10 days or so. Taste again- to make sure the diacetyl is gonoe.

thanks for that info. i'll make sure i do that. i had planned to let it run out ten days in primary at least, now maybe a bit longer. i've got temp. control, so i'm covered there. i'll just cross my fingers and hope it tastes ok.
 
I have a question for anyone that's brewed this. I brewed up my second batch of this back in Sept, at the same time my bro-in-law brewed up his first attempt at it. All three batches (the original I brewed a year and a half ago) came out very grapefruity. In aroma and flavor. The one I brewed in Sept has mellowed somewhat, but it's still a very strong citrus profile. Does anyone else get this? Personally I don't find DFH to be citrusy, so I'm wondering if there's something we might have done wrong, or if this is just what the recipe is after. Thanks!
 
Not really. Just wait it out. Ringwood ale yeast is also notoriously "lazy" from what BobNQ(I can't remember his user name- damn old memory!) posted in the past. Once it gets going, swirl the fermenter a bit, because I think it flocculates early. It also produces quite a bit of diacetyl, so make sure you keep it in the primary fermenter for at least 10 days or longer to reduce the diacetyl. It is noted for producing fruity esters, so keep the fermentation temperature under control, as well. I'd say keep it about 66 degrees for at least 10 days, and then taste for diacetyl. If it tastes buttery, or "slick" or oily, keep it there another 10 days or so. Taste again- to make sure the diacetyl is gonoe.


just an update on this.....

i gently rocked the carboy back and forth and side to side just one time, not creating any bubbles, but jostling the beer a bit last night and once again this morning. krausen has begun to form and there is obvious yeast activitiy, bubbles in the airlock, etc... i won't be touching this beer again for about ten days.

i noticed about an eight inch of what appears to be hop oils (???) on the bottom just above the solids that got transferred over. normal stuff?
 
i made this recipe for my first all grain batch yesterday and everything went fairly well except when i finished and was going over the recipe again i realized that i switched the warrior and amarillo hops when adding them to the boil. do you thing this will give me an overly bitter beer? do you think i should still dry hop and if so change anything?
 
The warrior hops are added at 60 b/c they are the bittering hops with high AA values. If you added the amarillo at 60 instead of the warrior you will lose a good amount of IBU's I would assume. Overall im sure the beer will still be good.
 

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