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American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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Just had my first pint. Turned out pretty good for my second brew. I can't really remember DFH 60 minute, it has been a while, but I think this is a tad more malty and off on color. Whatever the case it is good. I will try the all grain version fairly soon as well.

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A couple questions about my comparison between my brew and the original (do note I used extract for my clone).

O.G. 1.069 F.G. 1.019 using 1 packet of notty (in hindsight I would have used two)

Appearance: Aside from mine being a tad bit more cloudy dead on! As I was drinking I noticed the head on the original's head persisted slightly better and laced better.

Aroma: My version isn't quiet as toffee/nutty/malty as the original. Is this due to using DME rather than grain? Some twang comes through as well.

Taste: Mine has a very slight extract twang and is a little less bitter. I guess I need to use more hops next time :). The nuttyness/earthiness comes through a little bit more on the original. I am guessing this is for the same reason as the aroma?

Mouthfeel: Near identical, but mine is carbed more so it is slightly more aggressive in that department.

Overall, I am pretty happy with how it turned out especially since it was my second brew. I am just curious about the earthiness and what is the cause. I plan on making this again but AG fairly soon and want to nail it. So thanks for the recipe to Yooper and thanks to anyone who has some suggestions or ideas.
 
Just tasted the final product. Still needs a little time to completely carb up, but it is very good. Great hop flavor and aroma. Definately more hoppy than malty, but not overbearing. It is just a tad more bitter than I would like, but nothing to complain about.

Great beer. Thanks, Yooper.
 
A couple buddies and I have been planning to do this for a while and finally got to it yesterday. Fermentation started this morning and is already smelling pretty good. Can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks for the help and the e-mail with directions!
 
Hi!

I´m thinking of trying this one for one of my next brews. I only have the gear to do a partial mash at the time, I´ll figure out the conversion. But I live in Norway and I have a hard time getting my hands on some warrior. Even if it won´t turn out identical, what would you suggest as a substitute for warrior? Would Chinook work perhaps? I´ll have to adjust a bit because of differences in AA of course, even though they are pretty close. Other high alpha varieties I have are Halertau Perle, Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial and Target, but I figure Chinook might work the best. What do you think?
 
Hmm, been looking around a bit and maybe Centennial might be better than Chinook. Seems like Warrior has a piney/citrus aroma, which matches both Chinook and Centennial, really. But I´m afraid that Chinook might give some of that characteristic woody/smoky aroma... Not sure though as it is very limited what we can get our hands on of beers with American hops here in Norway, so I really don´t have as many different examples to compare with as you guys have...
 
Hi!

I´m thinking of trying this one for one of my next brews. I only have the gear to do a partial mash at the time, I´ll figure out the conversion. But I live in Norway and I have a hard time getting my hands on some warrior. Even if it won´t turn out identical, what would you suggest as a substitute for warrior? Would Chinook work perhaps? I´ll have to adjust a bit because of differences in AA of course, even though they are pretty close. Other high alpha varieties I have are Halertau Perle, Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial and Target, but I figure Chinook might work the best. What do you think?

I've done it with chinook, when I was out of warrior hops. To be honest, the grapefruit/pine of the amarillo and simcoe pretty much cover any other flavors, so I didn't notice much (if any) difference in it. Perle would work fine, too, and possibly target, but I'd use the chinook or centennial.
 
Yooper (or anybody),
For adding the Warrior hops, you say:

"first warrior only for the first 25 minutes just a few pellets at a time, then remainder all mixed together and continuosly added"

Does this mean that the .75 oz of warrior you used was all in by the end of the first 25 minutes? or was there some left over that you added with the later additions.

Thanks
 
Yooper (or anybody),
For adding the Warrior hops, you say:

"first warrior only for the first 25 minutes just a few pellets at a time, then remainder all mixed together and continuosly added"

Does this mean that the .75 oz of warrior you used was all in by the end of the first 25 minutes? or was there some left over that you added with the later additions.

Thanks

It was all in before I started adding the later additions. I put about 1/2 in right at 60 minutes, then gradually put a pellet or two in at a time until it was time to start the later additions. My goal was to finish up the warrior hops before starting on the amarillo/simcoe mix.
 
I brewed up this recipe last Sunday. The only thing I changed was the yeast. I used Ringwood ale yeast. My fermentor is still bubblin today, 9 days after pitching. Most of my fermentations take 3-4 days. Is this because its a bigger beer?
 
^ maybe the different strain of yeast?

i brewed last sunday as well, and my SG has been pretty constant between today and yesterday...

I moved to secondary tonight. Gonna wait a few days to make sure all airlock activity is 100% done, then add in the dryhops...

it was delicious though. Had a nice hop-bite. I'm assuming the bite will settle down a bit due to conditioning, but man it's awesomely delicious already.
 
I doubt anyone needs more convincing to make this after 29 pages in this thread. But just in case, I brewed the extract version of this and I've been enjoying it for several weeks now.

I used WLP001 yeast and added hops from the specified times (60,30,25) all the way through the boil. This probably put the IBU's down to around 50 but it is still delicious.
 
I'd use the "regular" two row, unless you had a reason to buy the pale malt in quantity and wanted to use it in several recipes. The pale malt reminds me of maris otter malt- a good malt, to be sure. But leaving a maltier taste. I don't think it will make a huge difference, but I didn't really care for the version I did with maris otter malt in this recipe. You want a "clean" flavor so the hops shine through.
 
It was all in before I started adding the later additions. I put about 1/2 in right at 60 minutes, then gradually put a pellet or two in at a time until it was time to start the later additions. My goal was to finish up the warrior hops before starting on the amarillo/simcoe mix.

you might want to put a note about this in the first post. i was a little unclear on it and ended up just adding the warrior at a constant rate starting at 60 minutes rather than putting 1/2 in off the bat. the sample still tastes quite good, but i feel like it could be a touch more bitter. i'm sure it will still be great beer though.

thanks for the recipe, i'm looking forward to trying it.
 
Is this right? Can you realy make this beer with only 3.25 oz. of hops? I notice the second recipe uses 10.75 oz. which seems more reasonable for an IPA. Still, the idea that I could make this yummy beer so inexpensively is intriguing. Hell, I already have the malt at home.

Don't know if this issue has been raised but I haven't been through all 29 pages.

Thanks,
Mark
 
What kind of efficiency are you getting to achieve 1.070 OG? I just brewed this on Sunday and ended up at 1.06 with ~5.75g in the fermenter. My calculations net me around 73% brewhouse efficiency, but I'm still way off from 1.070!
 
Is this right? Can you realy make this beer with only 3.25 oz. of hops? I notice the second recipe uses 10.75 oz. which seems more reasonable for an IPA. Still, the idea that I could make this yummy beer so inexpensively is intriguing. Hell, I already have the malt at home.

Don't know if this issue has been raised but I haven't been through all 29 pages.

Thanks,
Mark

What kind of efficiency are you getting to achieve 1.070 OG? I just brewed this on Sunday and ended up at 1.06 with ~5.75g in the fermenter. My calculations net me around 73% brewhouse efficiency, but I'm still way off from 1.070!

I get 73% almost always, in a 5 gallon batch. (If you got 1.060 at 5.75 gallons, that's a little over 71%- pretty close to mine, but I only did 5 gallons).

The hops? I use .75 ounces of warrior, .50 ounce of amarillo and simcoe (each) in the boil, and then use 1.5 ounces of hops for dryhopping. So, that's 3.25 ounces of hops total. The warrior is very high AAUs (in the neighborhood of 15-17%) and the simcoe is also pretty high at 12%, and the amarillo is 9%. I don't know what "second" recipe you're referring to, so I can't compare it to this one, sorry!
 
I've decided to do a 10G batch of this w/ the ringwood yeast; but I'm having a hell of a time finding the thomas fawcett amber malt! Not one local shop carries it, nor can they suggest a good substitution. I purchased some german cara-amber and english brown malt, but I don't think either is the taste I'm looking for based upon the description of the TF amber malt.

Anyway, is there another place to buy it other than north country malt? Seems like $20 is a lot to spend for 1lb of it!!!
 
It's been hit or miss for me finding it, too. Sometimes I use a mix of crystal 20L and some biscuit malt, or use some victory malt. I saw this earlier: Roasting Malt and I think I'm going to try that. Just make it at home! It sounds easy. I've toasted malt before in my oven, but never more than just a toast. I will try this the next time I don't have any amber malt.
 
:( sighhhhhhhhhh.................
You learn something new everyday, Today I learned how NOT to do something.

well I'm not sure that I should attempted this for a 5th brew. So how will and OG of 1.08 affect the beer?
I'm not quite sure what I did wrong, but I have a few different ideas.
I learned that with more hops I need to develop a different way to filter wort, (I'm searching the forum). A screened colander over the primary clogged up repeatedly with all the additional hops. Could some of the unfiltered wort, that got in to the primary, raise the OG? or should I be looking for other foibles?

Thanks
I'm sure that I have not ruined the batch.
I just need to improve my technique with more practice brewing. :D
 
Nitsua- Don't despair. I brewed this as my 5th beer as well. When brewing a beer with this many hops it's not a bad idea to use a large hop bag in the wort. If you check the gallery, you will see some ideas of how to suspend a hop bag in the wort. This includes a design which will hold these cinch-able bags open for continual hopping!
As far as taking gravity readings, take your sample after the hops have settled.

I have found it's easier to siphon my wort into primary. If you stir the wort fluidly in one direction before you start, the centrifugal force will move the hop sediment to the outside of the pot. Siphon from the middle.
I digress.

Has anyone used Wyeast 1099 Whitbread for their DFH clone?
 
I have found it's easier to siphon my wort into primary. If you stir the wort fluidly in one direction before you start, the centrifugal force will move the hop sediment to the outside of the pot. Siphon from the middle.


I thought this would put everything in the center and leave the outter ring clean.
 
This was my second all grain batch and 4th overall batch. Sat in the primary for three weeks and then bottled. After only two weeks in the bottle I sampled one last night. It was at least as good as any beer I've ever bought anywhere. I am extremely pleased!

I used some washed WLP001 I had from my first batch... seems to have worked well!

Thanks, Yooper!
 
When I did the conversion to extract for someone, I came up with this:

8 pounds 8 ounces DME
1 pound crystal 40L

For an og of 1.075. I would use the crystal and just skip the amber malt. For LME, I think 9.9 pounds would be about right.

I'm not sure about the hopping, though, if you're doing a partial boil. If you are boiling less than 5 gallons, let me run it through Beersmith for you (unless you have your own software).

It's in about posts #27-29!
 
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