Does my drill suck?

[Adam78K]

Been at for about 6 hours on and off on my keggle build. Been trying to drill the hole for the Ball valve with a hole saw and my damn drill keeps running out of power. Any ideas?

 

[RC0032]

Not all projects can be accomplished with a cordless drill.

 

[ic3scrap3r]

+1. A cordless drill is pretty much a "screw gun". They are not very effective at drilling any decent gauge of steel/iron/etc.

 

[ibrewit]

Are you using a cordless drill?

I drill 6 holes in 3 kegs in about 1-1/2 hours with a corded drill. I used a center punch to mark the holes, then a 1/8" drill bit to create pilot holes and then a step bit to finish. Drilling steps were performed at a relatively slow speed with high pressure, lubrication and patience.

 

[DoubleXL]

hmmmm my 18v Dewalt made 2 " 1/2" " holes in 2 kegs on one battery with a uni bit

 

[bendavanza]

Drilling stainless is about pressure applied and SLOW speed, with a unibit/step bit you should be almost cutting ribbons of steel away. Most cordless drills don't have the torque for that job. If you're using a hole saw, and you've had it spinning fast, you have probably work hardened the stainless and simultaneously dulled the bit.

 

[johnnyc]

My Ryobi 18v handled it no problem at all. Also used a uni bit. Those damn things are expensive

 

[Adam78K]

I have about half the side drilled off on the circle and have the other half left right now. And there is a center hold for guidance.

 

[bendavanza]

Sit on top of the keg like you're riding a horse and put your weight into the drill, and go slowly, some vegetable oil wouldn't hurt either.

 

[Adam78K]

Well I think this is the problem, I didn't buy a bimetal hole saw I just bought a regular one.

 

[Bobby_M]

Even the regular one will make the cut (it probably won't survive for another cut though).

 

[springer]

Didn't use a hole saw But the 24 Volt Bosch eat the holes right up with a step bit. If you went to fast you most likely killed your hole saw . I would get a new Bi metal one go slow with lots of pressure

 

[Moe]

+1 on the step bit. If you think you will drill more than this one hole, make the investment in a uni/step bit. I use step bits for alot of projects, great tool to have.

 

[BrewBeemer]

+1 on the step bit. If you think you will drill more than this one hole, make the investment in a uni/step bit. I use step bits for alot of projects, great tool to have.

Even using a Unibit not a "el Cheapo" brand X will instantly
break their cutting edge when drilling stainless. Tin snips the same thing. If your handy with a Dremel with a parting disc you can dress the Unibits pocket
deeper maintaining the same angle to get that sharp cutting edge back.
A high sulfur cutting oil like 90 wt gear oil or a oil especially made for stainless plus half the speed you think is slow with high pressure. This will
make for clean cut holes plus making long chips. Se any cutting oil smoke quit.

 

[Bernie Brewer]

+1. A cordless drill is pretty much a "screw gun". They are not very effective at drilling any decent gauge of steel/iron/etc.

Wanna bet?

Get a DeWalt XRP.

Or a Milwaukee.

Or a Bosch.

 

[Adam78K]

mine is just a little 7.2v black and decker boo.

 

[Moe]

Even using a Unibit not a "el Cheapo" brand X will instantly
break their cutting edge when drilling stainless. QUOTE]

Perhaps. I have drilled 5 holes in various kegs, all with the same unitbit. The last hole cut as well as the first. I did/do take extra care not to drill at too high of a speed, and I do use lubrication. Those two steps may have prolonged the life of my bit.

 

[JKoravos]

mine is just a little 7.2v black and decker boo.

Ah, there's your problem...that's not a drill.

Buy a cheap ass corded drill at the hardware store. A powerful drill and a good hole saw will go through a keg in seconds.

 

[BrewBeemer]

+1. A cordless drill is pretty much a "screw gun". They are not very effective at drilling any decent gauge of steel/iron/etc.

I've used my Milwaukee screw gun with a 5/16" magnetic socket to drive self tapping sheet metal screws thru light gauge electrical panels into light and regular gauge angle iron. You can even snap off self taping screws unless you back out and go forward a couple of times before driving it in tight.
Add a Milwaukee 1/2 variable speed hole shooter your going to have a battle holding onto it should it snag while hole sawing. Step it up to a older Milwaukee Hole Hog with two speed, a destroyer of wrists, arms, elbows and shoulders if drilling overhead on a ladder and it hangs up.
Stepping up another another killer is a Sieux 3/4" drive "D" handle drill motor that has a threaded body for screwing in a length of 3/4" ridgid conduit for a torque lever to hang onto it. At a no load a 350 rpm drill motor. I use it to spin a new motor rebuild around 10 turns before adding the cam to loosen up the ring friction before finishing the build. This allows for a faster start rpm after the pre oil.
I'm leaving out a gas powered fence post hole auger used to turn over other items like a small diesel engine. It worked, started it.

 

[sanch]

i have used em all makita 18v beats em all hands down. I commonly run a 4.5 inch hole saw in wood and it has no problems, mix grout, paint ,screw in big lag bolts if you are going to upgrade i highly recomend it. all there cordless stuff is awesome the angle grinder and sawzall eat batteries though.

 

[Adam78K]

Well I'm officially giving up on this hole, it's 3/4 way drilled through but seems like it is making absolutely no progress in the last part. Just unbeilable and very frustrating. Any ideas?

 

[BA_from_GA]

Get a Uni bit. Hole saw's don't work well on steel. That's the key. As per Cordless drills worth, they'll work fine. I drill thousands of holes a week in solid steel up to 5/16 thick, all with cordless drills... just gotta have the right bit for what you're doing.

 

[The Pol]

No DIYer should be without a UniBit... I can drill holes in my kettle in no time. Even the "el cheapo" step bits will make quick work of a SS kettle... I have drilled numerous holes with mine.

 

[Grizzlybrew]

+1. A cordless drill is pretty much a "screw gun". They are not very effective at drilling any decent gauge of steel/iron/etc.

I have to take up on this issue. I sell tools for a living and I can guarantee you that the right cordless tool can get the job done. It's really a matter of how many applications per charge. A few holes in a keg...? This shouldn't be an issue.

 

[BrewBeemer]

If it started to squeal like chrome on chrome you've work hardened the stainless which will be about as hard as glass and will eat up your Unibit.
I have had this happen myself then used a carbide rotary file in the air grinder to grind thru this thin hardened layer of then able to use the Unibit again and finish the hole. Finish drilling the hole only if the Unibit's up to the job and not been dulled from the same hole that was work hardened. Annular carbide cutter with the magnetic base drill press allows for a perfect clean machined hole. Use in inch or metric to get the right tight fit for a easy and clean Tig weld.

 

[Buzzy]

I lay out a hole with some dividers than I use my plasma cutter to rough out the hole. I follow behind with carbide burr and grind to the line. I know alot of people out there don't have these tools but this works for me.

 

[Bernie Brewer]

You people and your Unibits. I don't get it. Never have and never will. They have their purpose, for sure, but if you want to drill, say a 1 1/8" hole, then you have to go through all the steps to get to that size with your unibit. That's like drilling five holes to make one. No wonder your batteries don't last. A Unibit certainly has its purpose-to make an existing hole bigger, not to start from scratch.

And to say that a holesaw won't work on steel is ludicrous. I do it every day.

 

[BrewBeemer]

You people and your Unibits. I don't get it. Never have and never will. They have their purpose, for sure, but if you want to drill, say a 1 1/8" hole, then you have to go through all the steps to get to that size with your unibit. That's like drilling five holes to make one. No wonder your batteries don't last. A Unibit certainly has its purpose-to make an existing hole bigger, not to start from scratch.

And to say that a holesaw won't work on steel is ludicrous. I do it every day.

Wait I can answer that one, can't cut a steel panel. I had a super smart wise ass young apprentice that destroyed two Linox hole saws running them at high speed then add to this backwards.

 

[JKoravos]

Hole saws work fine on thin stuff and soft stuff. I probably wouldn't go with a hole saw for any steel over about .032"-ish. Doesn't make a very clean hole though.

 

[scuv]

I depends what drill you've got - the cheaper it is the quicker the battery will run out