Do you spend 1/2hr cleaning the mashbin?

[YeastGardener]

Anybody know how to prevent that carbonised coating on an electric brewbin element?

I mean, I've worked out that caustic soda helps cleaning AFTER, but it IS tiresome every time.

(I've tried a gauze over it to prevent the larger malt pieces sticking, but it always comes out black.)

Just an idea, is there some High Temp grease or something that I can coat it with, which doesn't affect the brew or its heating, and yet is easily wiped off?

Anybody found the miraculous solution yet? (Or is it just me not yet in the know?)

thanks.
YeastGardener.

 

[Clayton]

are you sure you need to remove it ?/
is it not a protective coat of oxide that you wouls want to keep intacket

 

[YeastGardener]

are you sure you need to remove it ?/
is it not a protective coat of oxide that you wouls want to keep intacket

Unfortunately, yes, I have to - the brewbin cuts off the electric supply 'saying' that the heating element is too insulated and likely to melt.

Specific instructions on the Electrim Bin require cleaning of the element to 'bright metal' every time. (I tend to be lazy and clean it every other time, but always risk an electrical 'trip'.)

The carbonised coating is burnt ingredients, not oxidation, I suppose.

YeastGardener.

 

[Clayton]

huh, what a hunk.
why not just use a kettel or keggel?
gas is the best for heating water or a cooler
or you can heat with steam
use a pressercooker as your steam source
and just pipe that steam up your manfold or false bottom

 

[YeastGardener]

Yes, I know, it's a matter of brewing scale.

OK, I can use my pressure-cooker to boil my English Tea in future, as well.

(Still, don't drink THAT much tea to justify it either ...)

YeastGardener.

 

[Loweface]

Are you boiling in this too or just mashing?

a fellow over on one of the Irish sites uses one for both (brew in a bag I think?)

He insulated the entire thing and adjusts temp with hot and cold water as nessicary during the mash and uses the element to boil. He doesn't use the element during the mash because of the horrible coating from the burnt starch.

If you want to read about it it's currrently the first article on Irish Craft Brewer - Home.

 

[YeastGardener]

Are you boiling in this too or just mashing?

a fellow over on one of the Irish sites uses one for both (brew in a bag I think?)

He insulated the entire thing and adjusts temp with hot and cold water as nessicary during the mash and uses the element to boil. He doesn't use the element during the mash because of the horrible coating from the burnt starch.

If you want to read about it it's currrently the first article on Irish Craft Brewer - Home.

Thanks a lot Loweface - this set up is very similar to mine; I may modify to his two-vessel version - so avoiding the problem all together. (I notice that his element is white from the water rather than black: good!)

As you guessed, I use one vessel for all processes (even fermentation!), which is most efficient and clean, but suffers from this one set-back - burnt malt.

Anyway, thanks for pointing out this website - I knew that someone on homebrewtalk would give me an idea of how to move forward. Cheers!

YeastGardener.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

I have a rims. Never had any burnt malt on the element but, I only use the element to maintain temps. As such, the element is underpowered to avoid potential for scorching and the liquid is moved across the element at full pump throttle.

Between brews I use a 15 minute caustic soak of Nitric/Phosphoric acids (Acid #5, Five Star) and everything is sparkling clean afterwards.

 

[YeastGardener]

Just had an idea, would aluminium foil protect an heating element?

Will it melt? (I notice on a box of Bacofoil that it says to keep away from electrical elements.)

What if I 'box in' the element with foil (but still allow fluid contact)?

Hmm.

Does anybody know whether aluminium foil is a danger in a 100degC liquid boil? I mean we use it in our dry ovens, don't we?

If not, it's got to be two vessels.:rockin:

Regards all.
YeastGardener.

 

[YeastGardener]

I have a rims. Never had any burnt malt on the element but, I only use the element to maintain temps. As such, the element is underpowered to avoid potential for scorching and the liquid is moved across the element at full pump throttle.

Between brews I use a 15 minute caustic soak of Nitric/Phosphoric acids (Acid #5, Five Star) and everything is sparkling clean afterwards.

Yes, it seems that I've got to avoid the boiling wort touching the element.

I like the caustic mix; do you know the concentrations of the acids(%v/v)? (I am not aware of the #5 5* code in the UK.) I would have to find a source for this here.

Thanks.
YeastGardener.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Yes, it seems that I've got to avoid the boiling wort touching the element.

I like the caustic mix; do you know the concentrations of the acids(%v/v)? (I am not aware of the #5 5* code in the UK.) I would have to find a source for this here.

Thanks.
YeastGardener.

Undiluted it is 38% Nitric Acid and 6% Phosphoric Acid. I dilute to 1 ounce per Gallon for regular cleanings and to 2-3 Ounce/Gal for heavy cleanings (haven't needed it yet).

Acid #5 is the product name. 5 Star Chemicals is the Manufacturer.

 

[YeastGardener]

Thanks.

That'll do it.

YeastGardener.