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This post may have been a bit misleading. I am still interested in this and yes it needs to pull through the 3" TC, sorry for being a moron.
 
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Hi Jay--not sure if this is best place for this question but I will give it a try.

I'm looking for a better way to handle pressure transfers and blow off out of my Spiedel 60L. Right now I am using the spigot that came with the tank as my blow off and pressure transfer valve. I added a swivel flare barb adapter to a piece of silicone hose that fits snuggly on the spigot. I guess that is 3/8 ID tubing. The end with the fitting goes into my jar of star san. When I start to cold crash I close the valve to avoid suck back. When I am ready to pressure transfer I attach the swivel fitting to my CO2 regulator and without opening the valve flush the line with CO2. The CO2 escapes through that little bleeder hole on the plastic spigot. Then I open the valve and have the tank under pressure to transfer to my keg.

Works great but that valve spigot is pretty small and I'm trying to maximize volume of my brew. The spigot clogs too easily and this happens.

upload_2018-1-9_12-5-3.png


I'm looking at your stainless blow off tube for the Spiedel and not understanding how I would be able to close the blow-off tube in order to pressurize the tank. Any suggestions? I'd like to get a bigger blow off tube on there and be able to close the blow-off when I pressurize.
 
Got ya beat.
Cold crashing under 1-2 psi...
I transfer in a similar fashion. Since I starters tilting the 60l with the bottom spigot up, I haven't had any clogged spigots or poppets. A foot long 2x4 scrap will do the job. Just push it under until the bottom left and top right corners of the Speidel are nearly touching the walls of the fridge.
Also, one of those small Gatorade bottles(10oz I think) work great for dry hop additions.
Cheers
Edit: pics won't attach... Says need valid forum I'd? Rebooting app didn't work either...
I'll try from mobile site later
 
Jwin said:
Got ya beat.
Cold crashing under 1-2 psi...
I transfer in a similar fashion. Since I starters tilting the 60l with the bottom spigot up, I haven't had any clogged spigots or poppets. A foot long 2x4 scrap will do the job. Just push it under until the bottom left and top right corners of the Speidel are nearly touching the walls of the fridge.
Also, one of those small Gatorade bottles(10oz I think) work great for dry hop additions.
Cheers
Edit: pics won't attach... Says need valid forum I'd? Rebooting app didn't work either...
I'll try from mobile site later
Click to expand...

Tell me about the dry hop Gatorade bottle...do you flush it with CO2?
 
Sorry to get off topic, but for other 60l owners, dryhopping while it's in the fridge is tight.
I just thought of it last batch.
It was a NEIPA, add there was still decent activity (30 hours in) so no need to flush. Second dry hop was just n the keg.
It was just much easier to pull the airlock and dump the hops in with an appropriate sized container.
The bottle is small enough to fit between the lid and top of the fridge, but the mouth is wide enough to prevent sticking but still fit in the bung hole.
I close transfer to purged kegs and all that jazz and have had no color issues or flavor issues, three weeks out now.
Has anyone used jaybirds ball lock prv lid to carb or at least partially carb in the 60l?
Interested to try it with a few gravity points left. I could cold crash under pressure with plenty of co2 in solution as well.
I just don't wanna screw up and buy a third lid...
 
Jwin said:
Trying pics again.
You do not have permission to view this page or perform this action

The same error is received regardless if I am trying to post a picture or attach a picture.
This is a pita...
Click to expand...


Yes, the pic posting is a PITA.

And with the forum upgrade it was said to be easier, but I've not noticed it.......:rolleyes:


@passedpawn
 
OK Jwin I see your picture now by clicking on the embedded link. Yep these tanks do interesting things with pressure. Maybe somebody could make a different lid that would not deform under pressure. In meantime I've learned to be pretty cautious pressurizing the tank and try not to go more than about 2-3 PSI.

Look back at my pic and see how full I've got the fermentor. This is my issue. I need a bigger blow off tube so I can ferment with that thing just about full without running into this issue. @Jaybird do you have anything for me? One thing I'm considering is going with one of these

upload_2018-1-11_10-24-59.png


To a 90 degree elbow to a barb to 1/2" silicon tube into trap. Then after most aggressive fermentation is subsided switching back to my current spigot.
 
eric19312 said:
OK Jwin I see your picture now by clicking on the embedded link. Yep these tanks do interesting things with pressure. Maybe somebody could make a different lid that would not deform under pressure. In meantime I've learned to be pretty cautious pressurizing the tank and try not to go more than about 2-3 PSI.

Look back at my pic and see how full I've got the fermentor. This is my issue. I need a bigger blow off tube so I can ferment with that thing just about full without running into this issue. @Jaybird do you have anything for me? One thing I'm considering is going with one of these

View attachment 553284

To a 90 degree elbow to a barb to 1/2" silicon tube into trap. Then after most aggressive fermentation is subsided switching back to my current spigot.
Click to expand...

Ok so loads of questions :) Simple answer is absolutely. You can use the Speidel 1/2" Male threaded nipple
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Speidel-Half-Inch-NPT-Male-Adapter.html
and attach a Cross or a TEE to it and build from there. Super simple. That will give you 2 and 3 holes to attach things too. Like a ball valve, a gas in port, a blow off port etc. We have even seen and helped people do the racking cane transfer systems with the Speidel like we have for the "In Keg Fermentation Systems"



Let me know if that answers your questions..

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
Yep! We are working on one. The BALLS we have looked at are all to big to get through the hole. I am working on a great little spray head though :)

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

Jay, any updates on this spray ball? Just picked up a second 60L and would be very interested in one or two for CIP.
 
I had a crazy thought the other day and wanted to run it by you.

Glass rinse assemblies are too damn expensive for my cheap self. Could I hook a tiny spray ball or something like your 3" spray nipple you mentioned above, and throw it into a drip tray or stainless colander / utensil holder or something? Total cost would be ~$30-45 depending on how much it would cost to find an adapter to work with hook the sprayer up to a side sprayer attachment, and I could use the same sprayer for other things.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I ran across this old conical, and i'm trying to get it usable with the capability to dump and collect yeast from the bottom. I do NOT want to try to cut or weld anything to it because it's not worth the effort for what it is. The bottom of the conical has a 1/2" male pipe thread welded in, and i'm looking to convert to 1.5" tri-clamp. The other issue is the space below the fitting, and the cross-brace for the legs. So far the solution that i've found but don't like, is a 1/2" female pipe to 1.5 tri-clamp adapter, then to a 45 degree (tri-clamp) elbow, then to a tri-clamp valve, then a yeast collection jar. This solution will cause me to have to extend the legs by adding pieces of stainless to lift the base of the conical. This is a huge hassle and i don't want to put too much effort into outdated conical tech.

Would it be possible to come up with a 45 degree elbow where one end is female pipe thread, and the other end a 1.5" tri-clamp? That would eliminate some length and might allow me to get a valve under it. I'll sill have to raise the legs, but i might be able to achieve the height needed for the collection jar by just adding wheels at that point.

If this isn't possible, i'm open to other ideas (yes, i've thought of selling it, but haven't had much interest). I have seen a ball valve that is female pipe on one side and 1.5 tri-clamp on the other, but i don't have straight space under the bottom of the cone for a valve. It HAS to turn at least 45 to clear the cross-member. Cutting out the cross-member wouldn't solve the problem either because there's not enough height. A 90 degree turn would not allow for collection jar to be used.

I might just scrap the project and unload it for whatever I can get if it's too much trouble (which I feel it is).
 

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jmcquesten said:
Would it be possible to come up with a 45 degree elbow where one end is female pipe thread, and the other end a 1.5" tri-clamp?
Click to expand...

I think using a female 1/2 NPT threaded TC cap (your original comment) would be the only way to eliminate interior threads. You could silver solder and grind flush to the threaded end to get a nice sanitary junction. If you used 3/4 TC then a stock 90* elbow is only about 2.5" tall, I'm guessing the 1/2 TC Sabco uses is even shorter.


If you don't mind threads on the inside then I'd think a standard elbow and nipple would be the cheapest solution, but I have to think clogging, cleaning, and sanitizing would be a problem.
 
jmcquesten said:
I ran across this old conical, and i'm trying to get it usable with the capability to dump and collect yeast from the bottom. I do NOT want to try to cut or weld anything to it because it's not worth the effort for what it is. The bottom of the conical has a 1/2" male pipe thread welded in, and i'm looking to convert to 1.5" tri-clamp. The other issue is the space below the fitting, and the cross-brace for the legs. So far the solution that i've found but don't like, is a 1/2" female pipe to 1.5 tri-clamp adapter, then to a 45 degree (tri-clamp) elbow, then to a tri-clamp valve, then a yeast collection jar. This solution will cause me to have to extend the legs by adding pieces of stainless to lift the base of the conical. This is a huge hassle and i don't want to put too much effort into outdated conical tech.

Would it be possible to come up with a 45 degree elbow where one end is female pipe thread, and the other end a 1.5" tri-clamp? That would eliminate some length and might allow me to get a valve under it. I'll sill have to raise the legs, but i might be able to achieve the height needed for the collection jar by just adding wheels at that point.

If this isn't possible, i'm open to other ideas (yes, i've thought of selling it, but haven't had much interest). I have seen a ball valve that is female pipe on one side and 1.5 tri-clamp on the other, but i don't have straight space under the bottom of the cone for a valve. It HAS to turn at least 45 to clear the cross-member. Cutting out the cross-member wouldn't solve the problem either because there's not enough height. A 90 degree turn would not allow for collection jar to be used.

I might just scrap the project and unload it for whatever I can get if it's too much trouble (which I feel it is).
Click to expand...

PM sent
Cheers
Jay
 
So on my Brewtech Chronical there is a small port about half the way up that is used to pull off samples. It works great because it is high enough up to be out of the crap at bottom but low enough to not get in the foam. It is great to get a sample to read gravity.

https://goo.gl/images/pHpK1m

Just not sure if walls are thick enough to stand up to a hole drilled in them
 
I have a couple requests...

Can you make a beverage side ball lock disconnect accept a 3/8” hose? I use your speidel parts to pressure transfer easily out to a 3/8” barb for a 3/8” silicone hose, but can’t easily fit the hose into the ball lock. I use a hose clamp on the flare fitting, but would like to slip the hose on and off to make cleaning easier. I was thinking some sort of adapter nut that can thread on the disconnect or just somehow weld a barb onto the disconnect.

Other idea I had in mind was a new and improved hopstopper. Can you make something like the hopstopper screen but instead of folding the edges can you weld it into a solid ring so you don’t have crevices to clean?

Thanks jaybird!
 
lupulinaddict said:
I have a couple requests...

Can you make a beverage side ball lock disconnect accept a 3/8” hose? I use your speidel parts to pressure transfer easily out to a 3/8” barb for a 3/8” silicone hose, but can’t easily fit the hose into the ball lock. I use a hose clamp on the flare fitting, but would like to slip the hose on and off to make cleaning easier. I was thinking some sort of adapter nut that can thread on the disconnect or just somehow weld a barb onto the disconnect.

Other idea I had in mind was a new and improved hopstopper. Can you make something like the hopstopper screen but instead of folding the edges can you weld it into a solid ring so you don’t have crevices to clean?

Thanks jaybird!
Click to expand...

You can get different size barbs for the MFL fittings. I have used 1/2”, 5/16, 1/4 and 3/16
 
lupulinaddict said:
I have a couple requests...

Can you make a beverage side ball lock disconnect accept a 3/8” hose? I use your speidel parts to pressure transfer easily out to a 3/8” barb for a 3/8” silicone hose, but can’t easily fit the hose into the ball lock. I use a hose clamp on the flare fitting, but would like to slip the hose on and off to make cleaning easier. I was thinking some sort of adapter nut that can thread on the disconnect or just somehow weld a barb onto the disconnect.

Other idea I had in mind was a new and improved hopstopper. Can you make something like the hopstopper screen but instead of folding the edges can you weld it into a solid ring so you don’t have crevices to clean?

Thanks jaybird!
Click to expand...
Are you using MFL fittings or barbed? IF you are using barbed I suggest 1/4" MFL and then you can get a 1/2" or 3/8" FFL barbed fitting to use in your system.

Cheers
Jay
 
Jaybird said:
Are you using MFL fittings or barbed? IF you are using barbed I suggest 1/4" MFL and then you can get a 1/2" or 3/8" FFL barbed fitting to use in your system.

Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

I am using the mfl fittings. That is exactly what I want, but can’t find them on your or morebeers site. Do you sell them? On your site I only see 1/4”.
 
mj1angier said:
So on my Brewtech Chronical there is a small port about half the way up that is used to pull off samples. It works great because it is high enough up to be out of the crap at bottom but low enough to not get in the foam. It is great to get a sample to read gravity.

https://goo.gl/images/pHpK1m

Just not sure if walls are thick enough to stand up to a hole drilled in them
Click to expand...
I put a weldless thermowell in mine without any issues, the walls are plenty thick.
 
So I will add this to its own thread but enough people have asked I went ahead and made it a part to out system. It will be on the website in a couple hours. Thank you to all that had me make these for you. I think it was a good idea given to me from the start but wasn't sure if more would like it.
What it is, is a NEW Corny keg lid with a 12" ling thermowell, new gasket and a new PRV. We are selling them for $64.99

Cheers
Jay
 

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