Do I use both packs of yeast?

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nikon90s

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I have another newbie question my kit came with two packs of yeast but the instructions just talk about one package of yeast I really need to use both packages.

Also the back of the packs of yeast the Instructions for the Yeast tell me to rehydrate before using but the instructions that came with my kit say to sprinkled the yeast on top which should I do?

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planetscott said:
You do not need to hydrate the yeast. Doing so only increases chances of infection.

seriously? You lose about half the yeast on a dry pitch- infection risk from using boiled but cooled down water is negligible.
 
planetscott said:
I've never hydrated dry yeast. Where do you get this information that half the yeast is lost?

Well OK darn it. I just made it up. No I didnt. ha ha. The bible called "Yeast" -- page 146 by White/ Zainasheff.
 
So do I use both packs of yeast? I can ever rehydrate one and not the other if that makes everyone feel better;)
 
+2 on Rehyrdate I didnt do it on my first two batches I did but I decided to on my third and the fermentation was much quicker and the beers taste much cleaner personal opinion.
 
We need the OG before answering your question. Since you haven't told us: If it is less than ~1.070, practice rehydrating one pack. If it works then use it and save 2nd for another batch.
 
from the Monster Brew website the kit includes:

3 lb Briess Dry Gold Extract
2 lb Briess Dry Amber Extract
1.25 lb Specialty Grain Mix (4 grains)
1 oz US Northern Brewer Hops
1 oz US Hallertau Hops
Fermentis S-23 Lager Yeast
Grain & Hops Steeping Bags
Priming Sugar & Bottle Caps
Easy-to-follow Instructions

They probably switched to nottingham because everyone can't ferment at cool temps, whereas the notty will work at a wide range of temps. Cool(58-62) for a lager style or warm(64-72) for an ale. They must have put 2 packs by mistake.
 
from the Monster Brew website the kit includes:

3 lb Briess Dry Gold Extract
2 lb Briess Dry Amber Extract
1.25 lb Specialty Grain Mix (4 grains)
1 oz US Northern Brewer Hops
1 oz US Hallertau Hops
Fermentis S-23 Lager Yeast
Grain & Hops Steeping Bags
Priming Sugar & Bottle Caps
Easy-to-follow Instructions

They probably switched to nottingham because everyone can't ferment at cool temps, whereas the notty will work at a wide range of temps. Cool(58-62) for a lager style or warm(64-72) for an ale. They must have put 2 packs by mistake.

Ok, one pack it is!

But.............don't do the "warm" ferment. Nottingham gets really foul over about 72 degrees, so keep it in the mid 60s if at all possible. The yeast in that recipe is different than the one received, so keep it in the mid 60s if you possibly can.
 
If this is a 5 gallon batch, then that grain bill will yield an OG that will require only one packet of yeast. Save the other one for your next brew. Try to keep the notty on the low end of the temp range, it'll be nice and clean that way
 
They must have put 2 packs by mistake.

+1, and yes, re hydrate 1 pack with boiled water cooled to about 100ºF and let it sit for about 15 min., then pitch into your wort. Re hydrating gives your yeast a head start.
 
I never re-hydrate the dry yeast. But I do sprinkle and then leave sit for about 20 minutes and then stir real good, get good results that way.
 
nottingham fact sheet says "lager style beer has been brewed with nottingham, however low fermentation temp. requires adaptation of the pitching rate to ensure proper attenuation." that's why there's two.
 
from the Monster Brew website the kit includes:

3 lb Briess Dry Gold Extract
2 lb Briess Dry Amber Extract
1.25 lb Specialty Grain Mix (4 grains)
1 oz US Northern Brewer Hops
1 oz US Hallertau Hops
Fermentis S-23 Lager Yeast
Grain & Hops Steeping Bags
Priming Sugar & Bottle Caps
Easy-to-follow Instructions

They probably switched to nottingham because everyone can't ferment at cool temps, whereas the notty will work at a wide range of temps. Cool(58-62) for a lager style or warm(64-72) for an ale. They must have put 2 packs by mistake.

I should have thought of that, now I feel more like a newbie.

One pack it is!!

Thanks everyone I will get this down at some point, my OG is 1.042 and I will be re hydrating my yeast.
 
dmashl said:
I never re-hydrate the dry yeast. But I do sprinkle and then leave sit for about 20 minutes and then stir real good, get good results that way.

The yeast cannot control what enters their cell walls so wort kills them too. Yeast, pg 147. It might work for you because dry yeast packets have a lot of cells, so their numbers are sufficient to stave off issues (or your palate cannot tell the difference yet).
 
+1 on rehydrating your dry yeast.

According to microbiologist Dr. Clayton Cone (consultant to Lallemand), the percentage of the yeast cells that survive the initial lag phase in a healthy condition to then begin multiplying is much higher (close to 100%) than if you just sprinkle dry (40-60%) into wort.

+1, and yes, re hydrate 1 pack with boiled water cooled to about 100ºF and let it sit for about 15 min., then pitch into your wort. Re hydrating gives your yeast a head start.

You've got most of the process right, but are missing the important final step before pitching rehydrated yeast.

After 15 minutes, that yeast slurry (probably cooled down to 90*F or so) is still going be much too warm to simply chunk into the wort (which is hopefully about 65*F). You have to "attemperate" it before pitching.

Add a small amount of the cooler wort into the yeast slurry, stir and let it sit a few minutes. You'll probably have to do this a few times to get it to within 10*F of the wort temperature. Once it's within 10*F, pitch away.

Oh, and when rehydrating yeast, keep it covered with a piece of sanitized (spray with Star San) aluminum foil or plastic wrap.
 
So do I use both packs of yeast? I can ever rehydrate one and not the other if that makes everyone feel better;)

If you rehydrate one, rehydrate both. I normally use hot water from the tap to rehydrate and have never had infection issues. I'm super anal about sanitation on everything else though and the water coming out of your tap should be good to go.
 
BigFloyd said:
After 15 minutes, that yeast slurry (probably cooled down to 90*F or so) is still going be much too warm to simply chunk into the wort (which is hopefully about 65*F). You have to "attemperate" it before pitching.

Add a small amount of the cooler wort into the yeast slurry, stir and let it sit a few minutes. You'll probably have to do this a few times to get it to within 10*F of the wort temperature. Once it's within 10*F, pitch away.

Oh, and when rehydrating yeast, keep it covered with a piece of sanitized (spray with Star San) aluminum foil or plastic wrap.

BigFloyd

I heated 4oz of filtered water to 100 and added some yeast nutrients waited 15 min then stirred and waited another 5 min. before I pitched it. I did not check the temp or the wort or yeast before. I would think they would have been about 10 - 15 range apart. Then I stirred the beer for about a 30 sec. and I did not cover the yeast.
 
BigFloyd

I heated 4oz of filtered water to 100 and added some yeast nutrients waited 15 min then stirred and waited another 5 min. before I pitched it. I did not check the temp or the wort or yeast before. I would think they would have been about 10 - 15 range apart. Then I stirred the beer for about a 30 sec. and I did not cover the yeast.

I'd simply suggest that you check the temp (with a sanitized thermometer) of the wort slurry after the 15/5 period has gone by. You may be surprised at how warm it still is. I'd rather not pitch yeast slurry that's 25*F warmer than the wort since that would likely shock it to some extent.

Mine usually takes 3-4 small wort additions (out of the kettle ball valve) to the Pyrex cup containing the slurry (with a few minutes between each) before it gets below 76*F. I do this after I have whirlpooled the wort in the kettle and covered it, so I'm waiting for the gunk to settle to the bottom anyway.
 

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