DIY MLT Questions

[MT_Keg]

Hey All,

I want to make a MLT, I am still not sure if I want to use a round or a rectangular cooler.

1. What type of cooler is recommended?

2. I think I want to make the manifold out of copper piping; when cutting the slots (or drilling holes) in the pipe do I have to worry about the burr that is created on the inside of the pipe (I don't want any copper particles in my beer)? If so, what is the best way to get rid of it?

3. Am I better off using a manifold rather than a false bottom?

Thanks,

MT

 

[Quaker]

My first mash tun was a round cooler with a round loop stainless braid. I crushed and damaged it while stirring to get unstuck once and that was it's end. Too large of gaps were opened up which allowed grain in.

Second was a 5 gallon square cooler with a straight copper pipe, slotted on the bottom. it worked absolutely fine. I have a couple stuck spurges, but was with a large amount of gloomy rye in the grist. (Ironically I was in China, yet couldn't find rice hulls). I filed the burrs on the outside to avoid cutting myself of sponges while washing it. I did run the round wire brush I use when sweating the copper pipes into both ends after cutting the slots. I doubt I actually reached all the way to the center, so some slots were probably missed. I didn't worry about it. If I recall, I don't think there were any loose slivers visible anyways.

I now have a HERMS with a 36 kettle with a false bottom for a mash tun. I love it.

So if you have a rectangular cooler already which you intend to use, then I'd recommend a slotted manifold. If it's a larger cooler, then put some Ts or make it a large loop. If you were buying a new cooler, then I'd go for a round one and get a false bottom. But either will work fine.

 

[IvanTheTerribrew]

I use a 70ish quart Coleman rectangle cooler. I just think it makes most sense for the area of the grains laying on the manifold.

When i made my copper manifold, I cut out all my long pieces and the used a sawzall to cut slits in it, about 0.5-1 inch apart, and then used some sand paper on the outside and inside. All you have to do is get a decent sized sheet, roll it, and stick it inside the pipe and spin it around and pull in and out to get the burs out. Never had a problem with copper pieces or getting cut.

 

[MT_Keg]

Thanks for the information!

Would a circular cooler provide better filtration through the grain bed than a rectangular cooler? or would it really not matter?

Thanks,

MT

 

[Quaker]

If you haven't bought Jon Palmer's "How to Brew", then put it on your Christmas List. In the meantime, check out the appendix on mash tun design online here.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD.html

But buy the book. It's a great reference even if you already have some experience.

 

[DarkStormBrewing]

in the circular vs rectangular cooler arena, I believe the advantages of the round cooler is usually a deeper grain bed (more filtration via grains) than rectangular coolers.

I have used a 48 qt rectangular cooler with manifold built to john palmer's specs with great success. I find that it's a bit shorter and easier to stir the mash in my particular set up.

However, one day I would much like to switch to a 10 gallon round igloo, mainly for the purpose of incorporating a false bottom and fly sparging. these coolers are around $40 at web retailers regularly. If you feel that you want room to grow and also incorporate a false bottom, go round 10 gal. Rectangular with properly built manifold will serve you just as well, just a different set up and larger footprint. Palmer has great info on getting the proper set up for your needs. good luck!

 

[billl]

If you are batch sparging, none of that stuff really matters. Any cooler shape and any manifold,braid, or false bottom works just fine. You are just stirring enough to dissolve the sugar in water and then separating that water from the grain.

If you are fly sparging, you want the sparge water to flow nicely through the grain bed and pick up sugar along the way. That means you want a cooler that is taller than it is wide. You also want uniform water flow through the whole bed. The best way to do that is with a false bottom. The next best is a well designed manifold or braid. What you want to avoid is just draining through one line or spot. That would lead to channeling where the water doesn't really flow around most of the grains.

 

[MT_Keg]

Thanks guys for your help! I forgot to look in the How to Brew book and it help settle the thousands of other questions in my head!!

MT