DIY Keggle Conversion (video!)

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Yuri,
Yes, I will flux the back side when I weld the front just like your video shows, which is excellent by the way and thanks for doing it. I will be using a mig set up with trigas. I am just curious if there is any value in trying to weld the inside also or does the weld penetrate like it does when welding two pieces of pipe together? Sorry if I'm not explaining myself well enough. I just saw one of the comments on the post that said something about welding the inside flush. Thanks - Dwain
 
If you weld properly, it should look similar on both sides. The front of the weld is easier to make "clean," so if you're worried about your skill level, weld from the inside.
 
Yuri,

Where did you get that ball valve with male on the end that went into your coupler? I am looking at mcmaster and they don't seem to have one that is stainless steel.
 
The back of the weld will crystallize unless you back gas or use flux. Crystallized stainless is weak, porous, and usually rusts.

Yuri -- I had someone weld together a keggle last year and I noticed after he was done that some of the welds on the inside were black and a little rusty. I am wondering if that black stuff might be the "crystallized stainless" you mention here. I don't know how to post a picture on this site, so I'll just post a link:

Electric Keggle - a set on Flickr

Is that black stuff around the welds what you are describing as "crystallized stainless? I don't know if the welder back-gassed or used flux, so I have no idea how this happened. I think he had a tough time attaching the legs (upon reflection, that was a pretty stupid design decision - if anything, they should have been attached to the skirt). He told me to just ignore it, but I'm not convinced he really knows what he's talking about.

After I took these pictures, I cleaned up the welds with some BKF and a green scrubbie. All the rust went away and hasn't returned after 4 or 5 batches of beer (I haven't noticed any strong off-flavors, either).

Does this look to you like something I should worry about? If so, do you have any recommendations? I've considered grinding it out, but didn't want to take a chance on creating a leak.
 
Did you fill the keggle with water before plasma cutting to ensure no damage to the inside? That is my only concern.
 
hb, I used a nipple fitting to join a female coupler to a female ball joint.

DrP, your suspicions sound correct. There isn't much you can do about it other than what you already have. Just keep after with with BKF and an abrasive pad.

tspilker, the beer residue was quite sufficient to stave off any slag damage in all of the keggles I've made so far.
 
Why don't you talk during your videos.... it's like a silent movie!
I would rather hear you explain what your doing than reading...c'mon! haha
 
Most kegs are stainless. Some years ago, kegs were made from both aluminum and stainless, but I don't know of a company that still produces aluminum kegs. I have never personally seen or worked on an aluminum one.

As for the lack of narration...I'd rather concentrate on the work than the talking. I can always add subtitles later, but I don't have a microphone to do after-the-fact voice-overs.
 
Great stuff Yuri! I am planning on having a keg plasma cut this weekend. I was going to use weldless fittings (don't know how to weld), do you recommend against that? Pros, cons?

Also, I noticed your wort return set up in a different thread, what fittings and size hole did you use to create that set up? Looks simple and out-of-way and if you aren't getting channeling, it seems ideal as opposed to a big, awkward return manifold.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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