DIY glycol chilled plastic conical fermenters

[staffordj]

Has anyone who built one of these setups that used the hydraulic disconnects end up having corrosion on the steel disconnects? Im wondering if I should go brass or steel

I recently took mine apart while changing the lid and the inside is definitely corroded. I lubed it to getting it moving smooth again, but I am not sure how long it will last.

 

[staffordj]

I had a batch foam over and came out funky (vegetable). I decided to go to the poly carbonate lid that was used earlier in this thread. As I was disassembling the old lid, I found that there was stuff behind the silicon that was supposed to seal the cavity behind the stock lid collar. In general, the silicon is not adhered real well to the conical plastic. I highly recommend that anyone doing this project to go with the bolted on lid solution. I have not fully achieved air tight yet, but I am going to change my feed thru's for the coils and then I think I will be there.

 

[TrickyDick]

Yeah, I did a brown ale - kegged half, and racked the other half to a freshly sanitized carboy. Within a week, the carboy developed a pellicle. Of two other beers I kegged done in the same time-frame, I put half on tap after chilling and carbonation immediately the other two kegs are at room temp but lids were seated with 45psi CO2. I'm planning to dose those kegs with sugar and transfer to bottles using the keg and beer gun as a bottling bucket and let them bottle condition. It will be interesting to see if they have developed a pellice when I open the lids. Of the ones that I've force carbonated and chilled, no taste of any infection so far and its been about 4 weeks.... I think ultimately my plans for these plastic conicals is to migrate to SS. I'm looking for the easiest path to adapt my equipment.

TD

 

[boat_eggs]

Im going to start a build thread soon as I have learned much from this one and is my inspiration but I am going in a slightly different direction (stainless conicals from Brugear along with more on the cleaning system among some other things).

But I thought others might gain from where I searched long and hard.
http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.com/
Those guys sell brass quick disconnects with stainless poppets at a decent price IF you buy a multipack. I bought a 10 pack set which was more than I will need after rethinking the design, duh! But it was still less cash than buying individually and brass does not rust.

 

[TrickyDick]

I had a batch foam over and came out funky (vegetable). I decided to go to the poly carbonate lid that was used earlier in this thread. As I was disassembling the old lid, I found that there was stuff behind the silicon that was supposed to seal the cavity behind the stock lid collar. In general, the silicon is not adhered real well to the conical plastic. I highly recommend that anyone doing this project to go with the bolted on lid solution. I have not fully achieved air tight yet, but I am going to change my feed thru's for the coils and then I think I will be there.

I am definitely interested in your feed-through plans. Keep us posted on your system please.

I am not 100% certain that my beers are getting "infected" or not with these concials. Since I do 10 gallons, I'll typically let half sit a room temp is sealed (w/ fully seated lids) kegs, while the other half goes into serving fridge to force carb.

I'm planning to switch to stainless, but waiting to hear about the specifics of the particular concials I'll be switching to. Might end up being blichman actually. been trying to discuss with the Bru-Gear folks, and had been progressing well until they seemed to have dropped off the face of the planet.
My unique cart is part of the reason its taking a while to choose . Thw way the plastic tanks fit exactly into the large holes cut into the diamond plate aluminum is slick, but there don't seem to be any stainless tanks that this would work for without some further modification. Would be painful to swap off the top piece of diamond plate, primarily because I'd need to purge all the glycol, and remove some of the through-the-deck plumbing - I don't even want to think about it in fact...

I'm keenly interested is seeing some detailed photos of how the Stainless Works folks making the FTSS and SS Brewbucket products are doing the through the lid fittings for their cooling coil. I've seen low rez pics but this isn't enough detail to figure it out for me. Seems that would be the way to achieve air-tight and sanitary fittings inside the tanks, AND be able to remove them.
I do not believe the hydraulic fittings are all that great. Mine have a bit of discoloration on them, but mostly seem to buff out with a towel, leaving just a tarnish. The pressure lock from expanding coolant as it warms up is more problematic however.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

Well. first snag.

I upgraded to new firmware which permits programmable temp ramping. Pretty cool for fermentations.


Supposedly migrated the old settings, but not completely. I didn't figure that out before I had a fermenter full of wort. took me all night to work out and turns out I was also combating a hardware problem - the darn AC wouldn't cycle the compressor on.... no clue why. I fiddled a bunch with the mechanical knob and viola, its working again. Talk about an aggravating night...

In other news. You really do need the set screws to hold the plastic collars in place on the fermenters or else they will tear the silicone seal. this happened tonight. Need to repair.

Yippee.

TD

 

[Spellman]

Sounds like you may have a loose wire between the knob and the start capacitor, or the switch in the knob is going bad. On mine I bypassed the switch and hot wired it together so when it gets power it starts and runs until the power gets cut. (running it off of a stc-1000) Technically that probably isn't correct and may or may not shorten the life of my $40 ac unit by not running the hot side fan for a while after the compressor kicks off, but...

 

[TrickyDick]

Well mine had been off for a while. ONce it finally decided to start working again, all is fine.

Thinking about swapping over to Blichmann SS. the diameter is near perfect fit for my stand.

Edit-Also, I think I have a better solution for the through the lid coil with a stainless concial.
Need to find a welder. I know a couple guys but not sure if they can do sanitary welding. Frankly not sure if it is critical or not. Could heat sterilize the welds during cleaning with a torch...

 

[bellinmi88]

I am sure this has been tried or asked before, but I am going to ask anyway. WILL THIS WORK and IF NOT, WHY?

 

[Shockerengr]

I am sure this has been tried or asked before, but I am going to ask anyway. WILL THIS WORK and IF NOT, WHY?

you'll want a check valve after the pump, or make the return much larger than the supply.

Other wise you may have some of the flow run back through the second tank and chill below your set point.

Also, put the return on the other side of the evaporator to get more flow across it.

 

[jessup]

I am sure this has been tried or asked before, but I am going to ask anyway. WILL THIS WORK and IF NOT, WHY?

if 1 is fermenting it will put off more heat needing more cooling, and the other fermenter would get too cold. need independent temp control.
edit: saw 2 pumps nevermind

 

[bellinmi88]

Yeah I figured check valves would be needed. So there would be a tendency for the fluid to flow backwards towards the pump? I thought if anything if only one pump was on the flow might cause the other tank to move the liquid as it passed by the return inlet at the tank. Would that not also be a concern?

 

[Shockerengr]

Yeah I figured check valves would be needed. So there would be a tendency for the fluid to flow backwards towards the pump? I thought if anything if only one pump was on the flow might cause the other tank to move the liquid as it passed by the return inlet at the tank. Would that not also be a concern?

I assume you mean like a venturi, I wouldn't be worried much about that.

 

[TrickyDick]

The thing works as is. If you follow the instructions, and use NC, normally closed valves, then the glycol does not flow backwards, and no check valves are needed. Planning the line length is discussed in detail, and when you follow the instructions in the thread, it works fine.

Issues are:
1.) potential for corrosion on the cheap SS hydraulic QD connections. This can be overcome with corrosion modifiers in your glycol solution. Many products, such as the Dow brand, include this.

2.) the plastic lid is difficult to obtain airtight seal and also to clean behind the inverts lip. This can be overcome by using stainless (duh), or modifying the opening and making custom lids from HDPE plastic as is posted by some users who have done this mod. Ultimately, this is a necessary mod in my opinion.

the overall design is excellent in my opinion, with just a couple of shortcomings. I think that there are many sanitary fittings used where sanitary fittings aren't necessary or truly sanitary anyways because of exposed threads, particularly the lid.

One other issue as pertains to the the lid and coolant fittings is the possibility of pressure lock. As you recall, heated liquids expand, and then contract when cooled. If you are fermenting beer at temps below room temp, then rack off the beer to conicals after dumping yeast you must be aware of the coolant connections to the hydraulic QD connectors. If you disconnect them, as the coolant inside the closed system in the coil warms to room temp, you might be unable to connect the hydraulic QDs back onto the coil because it is now pressurized because the coolant has expanded as it has warmed. The worst case is when you cold crash, rack, disconnect, then wash with hot PBW/CIP ball.

One workaround is to leave the efferent limb of the coil always connected to the QD, with ample polyvinyl tubing length to unscrew the lid while still attached (so as to connect the CIP ball). The efferent limb connects to the manifold on the return side and the ball valve position has no impact on the coil pressure, which can freely equalize pressure with the manifold pressure.

Another potential issue is reservoir volume. Be sure to have a fairly large reservoir for maximum efficiency and cooling potential.

TD

 

[bellinmi88]

The thing works as is. If you follow the instructions, and use NC, normally closed valves, then the glycol does not flow backwards, and no check valves are needed. Planning the line length is discussed in detail, and when you follow the instructions in the thread, it works fine.

Issues are:
1.) potential for corrosion on the cheap SS hydraulic QD connections. This can be overcome with corrosion modifiers in your glycol solution. Many products, such as the Dow brand, include this.

2.) the plastic lid is difficult to obtain airtight seal and also to clean behind the inverts lip. This can be overcome by using stainless (duh), or modifying the opening and making custom lids from HDPE plastic as is posted by some users who have done this mod. Ultimately, this is a necessary mod in my opinion.

the overall design is excellent in my opinion, with just a couple of shortcomings. I think that there are many sanitary fittings used where sanitary fittings aren't necessary or truly sanitary anyways because of exposed threads, particularly the lid.

One other issue as pertains to the the lid and coolant fittings is the possibility of pressure lock. As you recall, heated liquids expand, and then contract when cooled. If you are fermenting beer at temps below room temp, then rack off the beer to conicals after dumping yeast you must be aware of the coolant connections to the hydraulic QD connectors. If you disconnect them, as the coolant inside the closed system in the coil warms to room temp, you might be unable to connect the hydraulic QDs back onto the coil because it is now pressurized because the coolant has expanded as it has warmed. The worst case is when you cold crash, rack, disconnect, then wash with hot PBW/CIP ball.

One workaround is to leave the efferent limb of the coil always connected to the QD, with ample polyvinyl tubing length to unscrew the lid while still attached (so as to connect the CIP ball). The efferent limb connects to the manifold on the return side and the ball valve position has no impact on the coil pressure, which can freely equalize pressure with the manifold pressure.

Another potential issue is reservoir volume. Be sure to have a fairly large reservoir for maximum efficiency and cooling potential.

TD

I am simplifying the design and trying to eliminate potential points of failure. Check valves are less complicated and do not require a power source or controller to operate. I am using STC type temp controller for the pumps and that should do it.

Good tip on the corrosion issue and I agree completely about the sanitary fittings.

I am not sure I will have a pressurization issue as I have eliminated the valves. I will need to include some for when I disconnect from the chiller but that will not be under pressure as the return will be open allowing fluid to flow back towards the reservoir and equalizing pressure.

 

[bellinmi88]

I am simplifying the design and trying to eliminate potential points of failure. Check valves are less complicated and do not require a power source or controller to operate. I am using STC type temp controller for the pumps and that should do it.

Good tip on the corrosion issue and I agree completely about the sanitary fittings.

I am not sure I will have a pressurization issue as I have eliminated the valves. I will need to include some for when I disconnect from the chiller but that will not be under pressure as the return will be open allowing fluid to flow back towards the reservoir and equalizing pressure.

I am building the chiller on a separate cart similar to the one the fermenters are sitting in. I want to be able to disconnect the chiller system from the fermenter cart. I added three ball valves to do that so when I disconnect I dont get a rush of glycol spilling every where. If I close the cold valves going to the fermenters and leave the return valve open, i can disconnect from the chiller and glycol will drain into the reservoir and equalize pressure.

 

[TrickyDick]

Try to make sure that you get the run length for the tubing the same for both. Though possibly not as critical based on your plan, there could be unequal resistance on one line vs another which could cause the cooling properties of each to be different and might lead to inconsistency if you fermented in different tanks. Probably a very minor point.

One other thought I had about eliminating the pressurization issue is in install a purge valve for injecting air or gas on the inlet side of the coil and when ball valve is closed, purge the line with some compressed air, bike pump, co2, or whatever. Wouldn't need to be a complete purge, just enough to eliminate a LARGE pressure differential. Not quite sure how to pull this off though without overly complicated plumbing.

I'm also going to be using the through the lid adapters for the FTSS system when I go stainless. They are 1/4" as opposed to 1/2" but I think for a short segment of the flow-path, it will probably not significantly affect the performance. They provide a means to disassemble the lid/coil for thorough cleaning, and ensure an airtight seal, while providing true sanitary environment inside the tank.

Another thought on the central blow off/CIP in the lid would be to install a fitting like what is at the bottom of the Blichmann TC conicals, and use that for a blow-off through a center lid hole. Can reverse for CIP ball since it can be disassembled, and instead, connect a TC-MPT adapter. I'm planning to test this out soon.

Alternatively, will need to install custom plexiglass lids and entirely remove the existing lid assembly in the plastic tanks. Not quite ready to go to that effort however when I am thinking about swapping over to stainless.

TD

 

[Spellman]

bellinmi88, I think you will find 2 separate return lines will be easier to manage. The check valves may or may not work how you envisioned them based on how much flow is required for the particular valves. I have a setup with 4 separate pumps for 4 possible simultaneous ferments, and they all have their own send and return lines with no check valves, works perfectly. I thought about doing single lines with resistance like they do in commercial settings, but for our small applications I didn't see much benefit, and I believe it even costs a little more. The only downside is I have many more lines coming in and out of my reservoir.

TrickyDick, you have had corrosion with SS fittings? That seems odd. I've been using RV antifreeze, which I think does have corrosion inhibitors in it, but all of my connections are actually plastic anyway. I would like to find something that didn't gush when I disconnect though. In the meantime I just take my jackets off the fermenter and leave them connected so I don't make a mess. My fermentation area isn't much to look at right now as I haven't really found a solution for the clutter this creates.

Has anyone thought about using corny posts and connectors? Right now I'm using 1/4 plastic quick disconnects to my cool zone jackets. The lower flow has not hurt my cooling efficiency as far as I can tell. Depending on what pump you are using though it could make it work harder. I am running small pond pumps so I'm not too worried. I found that for our small systems only a trickle flow rate is all that is needed to keep the jacket sufficiently cool. I was in a brewery last week and noticed that the glycol lines were only maybe 1" lines for a 10bbl system, 1/2" lines on a 5-30 gal fermenter are probably overkill. I also noticed their shutoff ball valves were plastic, not sure what the solenoid valves were though.

On another note, does anyone have concerns with the reverse convection going on with the immersion chillers? Usually in a conical that is cooled from the outside, the cold wort falls down the sides and the warmer wort rises in the middle, then to the sides, and repeats. I believe this motion helps the yeast keep moving and working. It would be interesting to see a scientific study of how cooling from the middle effects them.

 

[helterscelter]

On another note, does anyone have concerns with the reverse convection going on with the immersion chillers? Usually in a conical that is cooled from the outside, the cold wort falls down the sides and the warmer wort rises in the middle, then to the sides, and repeats. I believe this motion helps the yeast keep moving and working. It would be interesting to see a scientific study of how cooling from the middle effects them.

Very interesting. I have not thought about this before. It would be very interesting to see some scientific information about this. I wonder how a jacketed fermentor vs immersion coil fare as it relates to collecting in a yeast trap. Does it affect flocculation or attenuation? Interesting stuff.

 

[etk29321]

The hydraulic disconnects linked earlier in this thread are carbon steel, not stainless. I was about ready to order some when I noticed that. The site listed a couple pages back that had brass ones also carries stainless ones, but they are quite expensive. (~$100/pair for 1/2" NPT). Brass at $25/pair vs SS at $100/pair for a part that has no food contact is an easy choice.

 

[TrickyDick]

The OP sourced his on eBay, and so did I. It was about $60 for six if memory serves. Stainless.
TD

 

[etk29321]

Do you recall which seller? I cannot find any stainless disconnects on eBay for anything close to that price. Everything I see is $100/pair, even on eBay.

 

[TrickyDick]

Do you recall which seller? I cannot find any stainless disconnects on eBay for anything close to that price. Everything I see is $100/pair, even on eBay.

Might have misspoke. I can't find any history that I bought the connectors on eBay. I was pretty sure. But maybe I am wrong. I think it is mentioned in the thread where to buy these inexpensively. It's some hydraulic ISO something or other name to the part. I can try to figure out when I get home home sometime.
TD

Edit.

Search Ebay for ISO 7241-B. That's what the OP and myself used. There are some for $15 each or so. That's a bit more than I recall, but I bought these in either 2012 or 2013 so I might not be recalling correctly.

 

[etk29321]

Is this the one you found? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-set-1-2-I...928?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a2df0d20

I believe its the same as this model on their site - http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ISO_7241_Series_B_Quick_Disconnects_Complete_Set_p/700-xx.htm -- which is zinc plated carbon steel.

A search for "ISO 7241-B stainless" returns only this 1/2" set for ~$100: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-q...042?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f3a9b542

I don't mean to pester or say that you're wrong. It's just a big enough price difference I want to be sure before I put down money.

 

[TrickyDick]

I have a long response to your post, but need to wait until I get home from work. IPad keeps puking as I try to "type". Wait on buying if you can't find some cheap China stainless connectors. I didn't get the Italian ones. I think mine are stainless, but you now have me wondering if they are truly stainless or not. Brass would probably be fine.

Truth is that this part of the build and design is actually a weak link. It is hard to ensure air tight seal. It isn't truly sanitary with threads exposed inside for CIP. It doesn't permit you to fully disassemble for cleaning. It is an awkward solution. Also if you aren't careful, you can create a pressurized state INSIDE the coil that prevents you from connecting the QD once disconnected. I have a plan to revise this for when I switch to stainless steel.

Be sure to use long enough lengths of the vinyl tubing when plumbing the coils so you can easily unscrew the lid and just leave the QDs connected.

TD

 

[etk29321]

My design is a bit different, but I really like the idea of the hydraulic disconnects because I can't find anything else with an integrated shutoff on both sides of the connector. After a 3 month hiatus to work on other non-brewing projects I'm about to restart my build.

Here's what I'm doing -> https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=507618

 

[boat_eggs]

another option that i kinda wish i got is the us plastics quick disconnects. no corrosion issues, they are less thermally conductive and can be double shutoff

 

[etk29321]

you mean like these?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=28352&catid=926

For whatever reason they don't sell them as sets, just individual pieces. Looks like for one set it's about $27 ($15.66 for the male end and 10.88 for the female) for 1/2" barbed. Thats essentially the same price as the brass ISO 7241-B fittings ($29). I've seem some disconnects that look like these before, but that set didn't have shutoffs on both ends. It's good to know they make them, plus the panel mount version is very interesting.

They claim they're high-flow (3/8" nominal flow). I'm curious if that would mean they cause less flow restriction than the ISO 7241-B's?

 

[TrickyDick]

For what it's worth, when I switch my setup to stainless steel, I am going to use the extension pieces that are made for the FTSS system by stainless brewing for their brew buckets and conical tanks. It's 3/8 I think. Going to provide a sanitary inner surface and removable for cleaning. Will probably need to get a few welds to properly connect to my coils.
I'm going to abandon the qd fittings. I'm going to place a purge port just past the ball valve. When closed, I'll inject compressed gas to flush the coolant from the hose and coil. This will eliminate need for expensive hydraulic stainless shut off qds and eliminate the corrosion issues some have had, and also the pressure lock problem when cold coolant warms in a sealed coil circuit. Since I already have the iso connects I'll probably keep until they corrode. My glycol solution has anti corrosive additives. So far has not been a problem.
TD

 

[boat_eggs]

etk29321, those are the ones i was mentioning. they make them with both barbs and threads so you can eliminate some adaptive fittings if your setup calls for it (mine will with brass disconnects).

Trickydick also mentioned the pressure lock issue. for that i bought extra brass disconnects and will have one with a ~8" pipe connected to it that i will keep connected to the cooling coil during CIP to relieve pressure. I will also have an extra connection on my glycol resevoir with the sole purpose of connecting the pressure relief pipe to it

 

[etk29321]

Thanks. I went ahead and ordered 2 sets of the us plastics ones. Once I have a chance to play with them, I'll report back on how well they work.

 

[chapusin]

I found a way to retrieve the plasticconical site but it doesn't have any pictures. Can someone email the files to me at [email protected]

I have 3 55 gallon plastic conicals, at the moment I have a fermentation room that it's not really efficient and I will be using coils. I plan on using an stc-1000+ for temperature control but I have a few questions.

1. If I get the stc-1000 12V, does it mean that it needs 12V to work or does it mean that it can regulate 12V voltage, such as a motorized ball valve?

2. For connecting the immersion coil to the lid, can I use this?

http://www.zoro.com/parker-connector-polypropylene-compxm-12in-p8mc8/i/G1687253/

3. For connecting the tubing carrying the glycol, why not use camlocks instead of quick disconnects?

4. I saw you guys posted this, but I can't figure out what it would be used for http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=28352&catid=926

Thanks guys

 

[TrickyDick]

I scanned the files to PDF (well most of them anyway, enough to get it done). The resulting files size is too large to email. A member on HBT has hosted them and there is a download link in his signature. check back several pages to find.

answers:
1. I don't think you can use a stc to provide output current for the ball valves. By the way, they need very little power. I did testing with a 9v battery. You will need a power source most likely.
2. I don't know if that would work or not. Achieving an air-tight seal at the lid is one of the design issues.
3. you could do that, but would leak coolant when you disconnect. It could drip into your beer. the QD fitting leak some too, and if disconnected when coolant inside is colder than ambient, when it heats up after being shut off, you can pressurize the spring-loaded QD mechanism and will be unable to re-connect to your plumbing potentially.
4. I'm not using that. I think folks were looking for SS hydraulic fluid QDs and this was an alternate option.

Goo Luck!
TD

 

[chapusin]

I scanned the files to PDF (well most of them anyway, enough to get it done). The resulting files size is too large to email. A member on HBT has hosted them and there is a download link in his signature. check back several pages to find.

answers:
1. I don't think you can use a stc to provide output current for the ball valves. By the way, they need very little power. I did testing with a 9v battery. You will need a power source most likely.
2. I don't know if that would work or not. Achieving an air-tight seal at the lid is one of the design issues.
3. you could do that, but would leak coolant when you disconnect. It could drip into your beer. the QD fitting leak some too, and if disconnected when coolant inside is colder than ambient, when it heats up after being shut off, you can pressurize the spring-loaded QD mechanism and will be unable to re-connect to your plumbing potentially.
4. I'm not using that. I think folks were looking for SS hydraulic fluid QDs and this was an alternate option.

Goo Luck!
TD

So basically none of my ideas will work haha, how are you guys controlling the valves then? is everyone using a BCS?

 

[augiedoggy]

So basically none of my ideas will work haha, how are you guys controlling the valves then? is everyone using a BCS?

I am using stc1000+s to switch 24v ... you can use any voltage model to control any single wire voltage.. they get wired like a switch... example one power wire goes in the cooling in and the other end of the same leg comes out..

I use them to control $2 24v solenoid valves I bought instead of ball valves and so far testing has been good... there details at the end of my build thread below but basically I use a dual channel relay and one side controls the individual valve and the other turns on my pump in my chiller which runs on 240v...

 

[etk29321]

I scanned the files to PDF (well most of them anyway, enough to get it done). The resulting files size is too large to email. A member on HBT has hosted them and there is a download link in his signature. check back several pages to find.

answers:
1. I don't think you can use a stc to provide output current for the ball valves. By the way, they need very little power. I did testing with a 9v battery. You will need a power source most likely.
2. I don't know if that would work or not. Achieving an air-tight seal at the lid is one of the design issues.
3. you could do that, but would leak coolant when you disconnect. It could drip into your beer. the QD fitting leak some too, and if disconnected when coolant inside is colder than ambient, when it heats up after being shut off, you can pressurize the spring-loaded QD mechanism and will be unable to re-connect to your plumbing potentially.
4. I'm not using that. I think folks were looking for SS hydraulic fluid QDs and this was an alternate option.

Goo Luck!
TD

I was the one looking at the us plastics disconnects. Got a few pairs and just hooked them to my system last weekend. They work great and are of high quality for plastic disconnects. I only get a few drops of coolant when I disconnect. I'm also using a short length of silicon tubing between the chilling coil and disconnect, which I am hoping will act as a bit of a pressure relief to allow me to still disconnect if pressure builds up since the tubing has the ability to expand.

 

[chapusin]

I was the one looking at the us plastics disconnects. Got a few pairs and just hooked them to my system last weekend. They work great and are of high quality for plastic disconnects. I only get a few drops of coolant when I disconnect. I'm also using a short length of silicon tubing between the chilling coil and disconnect, which I am hoping will act as a bit of a pressure relief to allow me to still disconnect if pressure builds up since the tubing has the ability to expand.

Could you please provide a picture of how you have everything connected? I'm guessing you use:

chiller > compression > silicon > plastic disconnect > hose

Does the hose need a fitting as well, assuming the silcon tubing is the one with the plastic disconnect attached? I guess I don't see how these are connected, is there a male and female version, as with the ones the OP were using?

Edit: found the female by looking at your prices, it's labeled as 'insert'. Now I wonder if I can use:

coil > plastic compression fitting > plastic bulkhead > plastic qd male with npt > plastic qd insert > hose. I think I'll order these and give it a try.

 

[TrickyDick]

I was the one looking at the us plastics disconnects. Got a few pairs and just hooked them to my system last weekend. They work great and are of high quality for plastic disconnects. I only get a few drops of coolant when I disconnect. I'm also using a short length of silicon tubing between the chilling coil and disconnect, which I am hoping will act as a bit of a pressure relief to allow me to still disconnect if pressure builds up since the tubing has the ability to expand.

Good idea! Let us know how it works!!!
TD

 

[etk29321]

Could you please provide a picture of how you have everything connected? I'm guessing you use:

chiller > compression > silicon > plastic disconnect > hose

Does the hose need a fitting as well, assuming the silcon tubing is the one with the plastic disconnect attached? I guess I don't see how these are connected, is there a male and female version, as with the ones the OP were using?

Edit: found the female by looking at your prices, it's labeled as 'insert'. Now I wonder if I can use:

coil > plastic compression fitting > plastic bulkhead > plastic qd male with npt > plastic qd insert > hose. I think I'll order these and give it a try.

My overall design is different from the one in this thread. I have an externally cooled stainless conical, so in my case the 1/2" copper tubing that makes up the coil is bent out to form the connection. 1/2" ID tubing fits right on the 1/2" OD copper without the need for any additional fittings and is secured with a hose clamp. I've had no issues with that holding even under pressure. The QD's I used are then 1/2" barb on both sides. so it goes:

coil -> a few inches of 1/2" silicon tubing -> QD male with 1/2" barb -> QD female with 1/2" barb -> tubing to/from chiller

 

[TrickyDick]

The OP sourced his on eBay, and so did I. It was about $60 for six if memory serves. Stainless.
TD

Alibaba.com has them but minimum order is 100, for stainless. $35/set
ISO 7241 B