Thats what I was leaning towards...This was the only one that they had since they are "out of season". I found a local HD with the exact model that I will pick up. I was just curious if anyone else ever had this experience before I returned it.
DIY Beer Line Cleaner
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Thats what I was leaning towards...This was the only one that they had since they are "out of season". I found a local HD with the exact model that I will pick up. I was just curious if anyone else ever had this experience before I returned it.
discooby
Well-Known Member
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Tag, absurdly simple and cheap, I love it!
Eisendrath
Well-Known Member
Assembled & used mine this week. Two words: absolutely awesome.
I too had leaks all over the place with normal amounts of thread tape.
Disassembled in put in 2X, still leaked quite a bit.
Disassembled in put in 3X, (you've got to love thread tape).
This thing is awesome.
Actually built two, one for a bud. Both had the same fitup issues.
Thread tape solved them both.
I too had leaks all over the place with normal amounts of thread tape.
Disassembled in put in 2X, still leaked quite a bit.
Disassembled in put in 3X, (you've got to love thread tape).
This thing is awesome.
Actually built two, one for a bud. Both had the same fitup issues.
Thread tape solved them both.
This is fantastic.
Put it together last night and gave it a go. Only hitch was needing to add copious amounts of Teflon tape to the plastic thread to prevent an initial leak between brass/plastic... oh, and home depot needing to get a forklift out to pull one down from their rafters.
Works like a charm; I'm absolutely thrilled to have this in the arsenal -- what an improvement over using a keg to clean the lines. Cheers for posting this geniz!
Put it together last night and gave it a go. Only hitch was needing to add copious amounts of Teflon tape to the plastic thread to prevent an initial leak between brass/plastic... oh, and home depot needing to get a forklift out to pull one down from their rafters.
Works like a charm; I'm absolutely thrilled to have this in the arsenal -- what an improvement over using a keg to clean the lines. Cheers for posting this geniz!
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I'm a little confused. According to Corny Keg Thread Sizes, here are the thread sizes... but none of them appear to be 3/8". What did I miss?
Firestone V Challenger, Firestone VI Challenger, Firestone Super ChallengerGas 9/16"-18
Liquid 5/8" -18
Cornelius Spartan & Super Champion
Liquid 19/32" - 18
Cornelius R (pin lock)
Liquid 19/32" - 18 (3-pin)
John Wood 85, Firestone Challenger
Liquid 3/4" - 18
Firestone A, Firestone R, John Wood RA, John Wood RC (pin lock)
Liquid 9/16" - 18 (3-pin)
Heh; my internet search was in vain to try and decipher how the different fittings work together. That said, rest assured, these two fittings do work (just built it myself the other day):
1) Firestone V Challenger, Firestone VI Challenger, Firestone Super Challenger -- Liquid 5/8" -18 [my part number was Hansen 2-KL-F 5/8-18ft x .658 O.D. with VA2KGLFA Plug Valve Assembly and O-ring, which I purchased from my LHBS] (here's a link to it: http://www.suomenpikaliitin.fi/files/Beverage catalogue.pdf)
2) 3/8 Flare x 3/8 FIP Brass Coupling (http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Watts-A-176-46-6-6-Brass-Coupling-3-8-Flare-x-3-8-FIP/16950189)
If anyone has mad plumbing skillz though, I too would be interested in understanding the how the measurements work together.
Blue_Monkey
Well-Known Member
I just picked up a similar sprayer at Lowes and the A-176 coupling fits perfect. I have a Firestone post on order.
When I first picked up the post, I took it to Home Depot and sized it on their sample thread sizer. It fit the 3/8 flare. If you get the right post, it fits. Keep to the Firestone. Take it to the hardware store and try it yourself. Mine was a good enough fit that I prob could have skipped the thread tape. But I used the thread tape because I was afraid it might leak under pressure.
No mad plumbing skillz here, but if I'm reading this Wikipedia page correctly, a 3/8" flare fitting uses a 9/16-18 SAE thread - which matches the Firestone V Challenger/Firestone VI Challenger/Firestone Super Challenger posts perfectly.
Otoh, if I'm mistaken, my reading skillz ain't all that, either
Cheers!
... but 9/16" is for the GAS Firestone post. The LIQUID post is 5/8" and that is the one that is working with the 3/8" coupler.
9/16 = 3/8 = 5/8 ... making the gas and liquid posts interchangeable by this math.
How very confusing.
OK, after reading these two:
http://aeromotiveinc.com/2010/01/an-vs-npt/
http://hbd.org/uchima/kegging/kegadvent.html
I *think* the Firestone post must be measured in Outer Diameter (5/8" OD) and the brass coupling is measured in Inner Diameter (3/8" ID)... which would mean that the post has a 1/8" thick wall (I don't have one handy to measure, but that seems reasonable).
The -18 appears to be the number of threads per some measure (per inch?).
If this holds true, it sure doesn't seem intuitive for one trying to find parts without a physical sizing chart...
All that said, can't guarantee the ol' readin' skillz at this hour, so please correct me if I'm wrong.
http://aeromotiveinc.com/2010/01/an-vs-npt/
http://hbd.org/uchima/kegging/kegadvent.html
I *think* the Firestone post must be measured in Outer Diameter (5/8" OD) and the brass coupling is measured in Inner Diameter (3/8" ID)... which would mean that the post has a 1/8" thick wall (I don't have one handy to measure, but that seems reasonable).
The -18 appears to be the number of threads per some measure (per inch?).
If this holds true, it sure doesn't seem intuitive for one trying to find parts without a physical sizing chart...
All that said, can't guarantee the ol' readin' skillz at this hour, so please correct me if I'm wrong.
I think you're right. The dip tube o-ring has 5/16" ID. So with the flange, it is probably just under 6/16" or 3/8" -- the ID of the post / plug?
So the point of view for the coupler must be that of its ID of 3/8" -- which yields no information on the thread itself of 5/8"(?) which mates with the plug (whose POV is the OD of the post).
So even the AN wiki page would not have helped here. There is no entry for a 5/8" firestone liquid plug -- never mind a Corny liquid plug. I guess it's trial and error.
spearko520
Well-Known Member
great idea - making one this weekend!!!
ultravista
Well-Known Member
Will this keg post work?
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/home_brew/kegs/firestone__spartenberg_bl_liquidplug.html
"Replacement liquid tank plug for ball lock Firestone kegs. Compatible with Spartenberg V and VI Challenger and Super Challenger. Comes complete with o-ring and poppet valve"
Size: 5/8-18
The post listed on Brewmasters Warehouse does not mention thread or pitch.
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/home_brew/kegs/firestone__spartenberg_bl_liquidplug.html
"Replacement liquid tank plug for ball lock Firestone kegs. Compatible with Spartenberg V and VI Challenger and Super Challenger. Comes complete with o-ring and poppet valve"
Size: 5/8-18
The post listed on Brewmasters Warehouse does not mention thread or pitch.
Yep, this should be the one -- per a post on the previous page:
As long as your V, VI or Super compatible, you should be OK (for the liquid post, of course)
About this time last year I made something similar under the "use what you got" principle. I cobbled it together from an empty OJ bottle, a schreader tire stem valve, a 3/8 ball valve, a 1/4 flare fitting, and a MIP reducer fitting.
It worked kind of OK, but required CO2 pressure to push the cleaning solution, needing me to change to a tire filler fitting on the end of my CO2 line from the regulator (a real PITA), and to hold it upside down to dispense the cleaner while adding CO2 with the other hand (another PITA). Also, because it attached to the flare nut on the beer line, it didn't clean the liquid ball lock fitting. It leaked a little too because the bottle wall is so thin and hard to seal well without tearing. So in the end, although it cleaned the lines just fine, I didn't like it all that much and really didn't like getting the caustic solution dripping and leaking on my hands.
So I finally broke down and built one of the pumps of the OP's original design. I have to say it's great device and 100% better than my junk. All the thread size banter aside, it goes together great if you follow the directions. I did do a couple of things slightly differently though. I puchased the Firestone ball lock post with the right thread, a "universal" poppet valve (see pic), and flare/FIP adapter from the same LHBS and HD as day_tippr. When I started putting it together I didn't like the amount of teflon tape it seemed to need to seal. So instead, I again used a couple of parts I had on hand to make better seals. I took off all the teflon tape and added a #10 o-ring (Danco brand at HD - see pic) to seal the flare to the ball lock post. For the adapter to the plastic pump head I took off most of the teflon tape leaving 1 wrap to keep the brass from galling the plastic treads and added a 1/4L sized faucet seat washer (Danco brand at HD - see pic) inside the brass adapter to funtion as a gasket. I had to sand down the OD of the faucet washer just a little, to the edge of the "1/4L" marking on the washer using some med. grit sandpaper on a sanding block, to get it to fit just right. These small changes should make it very reliable and 100% leak proof. My hands will like that!
I used it the other day and it SEALS GREAT and WORKS GREAT too! Kudos to the OP for posting this.
It worked kind of OK, but required CO2 pressure to push the cleaning solution, needing me to change to a tire filler fitting on the end of my CO2 line from the regulator (a real PITA), and to hold it upside down to dispense the cleaner while adding CO2 with the other hand (another PITA). Also, because it attached to the flare nut on the beer line, it didn't clean the liquid ball lock fitting. It leaked a little too because the bottle wall is so thin and hard to seal well without tearing. So in the end, although it cleaned the lines just fine, I didn't like it all that much and really didn't like getting the caustic solution dripping and leaking on my hands.
So I finally broke down and built one of the pumps of the OP's original design. I have to say it's great device and 100% better than my junk. All the thread size banter aside, it goes together great if you follow the directions. I did do a couple of things slightly differently though. I puchased the Firestone ball lock post with the right thread, a "universal" poppet valve (see pic), and flare/FIP adapter from the same LHBS and HD as day_tippr. When I started putting it together I didn't like the amount of teflon tape it seemed to need to seal. So instead, I again used a couple of parts I had on hand to make better seals. I took off all the teflon tape and added a #10 o-ring (Danco brand at HD - see pic) to seal the flare to the ball lock post. For the adapter to the plastic pump head I took off most of the teflon tape leaving 1 wrap to keep the brass from galling the plastic treads and added a 1/4L sized faucet seat washer (Danco brand at HD - see pic) inside the brass adapter to funtion as a gasket. I had to sand down the OD of the faucet washer just a little, to the edge of the "1/4L" marking on the washer using some med. grit sandpaper on a sanding block, to get it to fit just right. These small changes should make it very reliable and 100% leak proof. My hands will like that!
I used it the other day and it SEALS GREAT and WORKS GREAT too! Kudos to the OP for posting this.
spearko520
Well-Known Member
another fix is to use blue blocker pipe dope and wind the 3/8" flare x 3/8" FIP all the way down tight to the plastic. That's what i did - no leaks. great little gizmo!!!
I agree with this. I'm not sure where all that tape is being used, but I only needed a few wraps on mine between the brass fitting and the post, have never had even the slightest dribble, and I use it a lot.
Just had another keg kick last night and used it to flush out the line before I loaded another fresh keg. No problems at all.
And I still think this thread should be a sticky...
Cheers!
spearko520
Well-Known Member
its not the post that leaks. the thread spacing on the 3/8 female npt on the brass is a teensy bit different than the plastic thread on the end of the bottle. it kind of bottoms out before it gets tight. plastic threads always queer the deal...
I have no tape on that connection...
Cheers!
[edit] I stuck the white grommet thingy - flipped over from its original orientation - between the plastic tip and the inside of the brass fitting. I wonder if that makes a difference in all this...
That white gromet must be sealing the male end of the plastic fitting on the pump head to the bottom of the female brass adapter so the liquid doesn't get to the threads. From a quick scan back thru the thread it looks like those with leaks did say they didn't reuse the white gromet, leaving only the threads and teflon tape to make a seal. By design my faucet washer is sealing it the same way as the white gromet. The faucet washer has a bigger hole in the center than the white gromet, so it flows better and keeps the trigger valve disabled too.
+1 on making this thread sticky!
cincybrewer
Well-Known Member
I just picked up a similar sprayer at Lowes and the A-176 coupling fits perfect. I have a Firestone post on order.
Does yours keep pressure? I bought the same one as you but when I pump the top it doesn't hold the pressure in. I'm guessing it has something to do with that gasket. Not too sure if mine is hooked up right.
ThreeBrothersBrewery
Well-Known Member
Love the idea, simple and effective.
cincybrewer
Well-Known Member
Okay, ended up getting a Flo-Master and everything worked up until I tried to put the keg post on the adapter. I'm almost certain it's a Firestone liquid out post but it doesn't seem to screw onto the adapter at all. How far is everyone able to screw their post onto their adapter? Do you have to use a wrench to tighten most of the way? I get maybe one turn with my hand.
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