Did I screw up? - All Grain Mash Question

[thebrewski]

So I did an all grain batch yesterday which I was trying to do an Imperial IPA with a good body (mash around 154).

The mash temp was right on for an hour but after I collected the first runnings I left the first running sitting in my kettle until I collected my two batch sparges after the mash. I figure the first mash running (sitting in the kettle) temperature dropped down to 140 for around 20 minutes. Then I began my boil after the sparges. I did not realize that the enzymatic conversion continues in the kettle until the temp is raised above 170 F.... Always learning something.

So, my question is do you think my beer is going to be more dry/less body than I was hoping for since the first running probably sat in the 140 temp range(Beta) for 20 minutes?

I used a total of 4 lbs of caramel 80, munich, melanoidin, and cara 45 so maybe that will help keep some body if that does screw it up...

 

[thebrewski]

It may have dropped even lower that 140... I'm not sure because I didn't check the temp of it again.

 

[JordanKnudson]

I don't think you're going to encounter any problems here. The mashout is something that we all do, but more and more data has been suggesting that it doesn't really have an effect one way or the other once conversion is complete (i.e. after a normal-length mash). As for your concern about the beta-amylase kicking back in as your temp dropped and starting to work again, the enzyme will be pretty well denatured once temperatures reach 150+, and as such will not be available to work even if your temperature drops back down. If you want a bit more comprehensive (but still simple enough to understand) explanation of enzymatic activity in the mash, check out this article: https://byo.com/porter/item/1543-understanding-enzymes-homebrew-science

As for your beer, relax. It's going to turn out exactly how it's supposed to (well, assuming nothing goes wrong at other stages...but as far as the mash is concerned, you're good).

 

[JordanKnudson]

Oh, forgot to mention, on an unrelated note -- when you say you used 4 lbs of caramel 80, munich, melanoidin, and cara 45, I'm hoping the bulk of that was munich (since you didn't give the specific numbers). Very often people go overboard with caramel malt and wreck the balance of the beer... Sorry for the aside, I realize you weren't asking for a critique of your recipe. It's just alarming to see caramel malts and the quantity "4 lbs" in the same sentence!

 

[thebrewski]

Thank you for the information. I'm glad to see that. I know the crystal malts are a little higher than normal but I figured with the high ABV(~8%) and high IBU(~75) it would help balance everything out. The Post boil OG was 1.081 which was 80% efficiency from BeerSmith which I was really happy about. Let me know what you think though.

I used:
12.3 lbs 2 row
1 lb Munich 10
0.75 lb caramel 80
0.75 lb melanoidin
0.75 lb cara 45
1 oz Columbus - 60 min
1 oz centennial - 30 min
1 oz centennial - 15 min
1 oz cascade - 10 min
.5 oz cascade - flame out
Will dry hop with 1 oz Amarillo and .5 oz cascade
Yeast is WLP001
It's looking great so far

 

[kombat]

Looking good! A side note: Please don't use that carboy handle to carry the full carboy. They put stress on the neck of the carboy and can cause them to break. They're intended to only ever be used on empty carboys, and even then, I don't trust them. Get yourself a good set of BrewHauler straps, or a milk crate, or heck, even just lift it from the bottom with your bare hands and arms, but DO NOT lift a full carboy with that neck handle.

 

[JordanKnudson]

Looks nice!

That *is* more caramel malt than I would use (I would go with no more than a pound, esp. since it's half C80), but that's okay. You can evaluate it for yourself, and you might find that you really like it this way. It will just be a very "midwestern" IPA.

 

[cjgenever]

most your beta was denatured @ 154 for an hour.
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I often brew a malty iipa that is well bodied, almost out of category. I only use about .75lb c20 and .75 lb c60. I get a bready malty note with Britt pale 2 row, biscuit, and Munich that really makes it pop. .5 lb wheat malt for head retention (iipa will be cloudy anyway) 149° mash for 60 min (loose one degree over hour). A 90 min boil will add to the melanoidin profile without reducing fermentability too much. Kinda a Britt ipa grain bill with HEAVY US hopping.

Hops mimic DFH...
Pellets
2 oz warrior@90
1 oz warrior@60
1 oz mix (simcoe, warrior, centennial (or Amarillo) @ 15, 10, 5, 0 min

Two 2 oz dry hop additions of mix, 3.5 days each.
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Please report back when conditioned. I suspect it will be tasty, but a bit coying.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Home Brew mobile app

 

[thebrewski]

Thanks for all of the replies. I have a milk crate I use to transport the full carboy. I only use the handle when I'm cleaning the carboy in the sink.

I will update y'all in the next month or so on the first bottle tasting.

 

[kh54s10]

I have drained my MLT and sparge then ran out of propane a couple of times. 15 minute or so to the exchange for more then back to brewing. I didn't detect any problems.

 

[thebrewski]

So I took a FG today and it was 1.010. I believe Beer Smith estimated the FG to be 1.020. I thought with the amount of caramel malt I used it wouldn't drop as low as 1.010 even though I messed up letting the first runnings drop below 140 degrees. The OG was 1.081... Making this about a 9.3% ABV. Tried a sample today and it tasted pretty dang good to me.

Any thoughts about the FG?

 

[JordanKnudson]

The BeerSmith estimate is just that -- an estimate. Since it uses the reported average attenuation of the yeast strain in conjunction with your mash parameters to make that guess, if you get higher % attenuation from your yeast, your actual FG can come in at a very different number.

As for your "messing up letting the first runnings drop below 140 degrees," like we said before, that really wouldn't have affected the fermentability of your wort, as the beta glucanase enzymes would have been denatured. Some people genuinely leave the mash to sit overnight, because conversion doesn't continue even if the temperature drops back down. So that isn't the reason for your low FG.

It sounds like you just had a very healthy fermentation. The only thing that might be a factor is the equipment and temperature at which you measured your OG/FG. Refractometers don't give accurate readings after fermentation has begun, and if you used a hydrometer, those are calibrated for specific temperatures, so there's a chance that perhaps your numbers were a bit off. Nonetheless, it certainly doesn't appear that anything has gone wrong here. You made a successful high gravity beer. Congratulations!