Did I go too big?

[jeffreyabr]

So I went ahead and purchased most of the equipment on the list that I laid out on here the other week. Thanks again to all those who gave some input.

I just got my Bayou Classic 1064 Stainless 16-Gallon Stockpot, and I'm wondering if I went too big.

I had imagined I would do some 5 gallon batches with the thing, but upon seeing the actual size of the kettle, it looks like I get maybe 6 inches off the bottom of the pot before I hit the 5 gallon mark.

Is this going to be feasible to get some 5 gallon all-grain batches out of? Is it going to be possible to BIAB with only 6 inches between the water and the bottom? Should I think about returning it?

 

[LLBeanJ]

It'll work great. Don't sweat it. Keep in mind most of us run 5.5 or 6.0 gallons into the fermenter to end up with 5 gallons @ packaging. Also, with boiloff, you'll start your boil closer to 7 or 8 gallons. For BIAB, you'll want to have all that volume as well. I guarantee once you start using it, you'll love it (while wondering what all the fuss is about with regard to boilovers, which you'll likely never have with all that extra space).

 

[UndeadFred]

Bigger is better. When you mash you will do it with 8+ gallons of water and you will have the volume of wet grains-- usually between 10 and 15 pounds of it-- also taking up room. You will lose a gallon at least to the grains when you pull the bag and you'll boil off the rest... trust me.. 8 to 9 gallons is about the right amount of water to start off with for a 5.5 gallon batch (0.5 gallons will be lost to trub, etc..)

Mount your valves as low as possible on it (and your element if you become smart about it ) and you'll be fine. I use a keg for my 15.5 gallon pot and it's just big enough for BIAB on a 10 gallon batch if it's not too high of OG...

Seriously this is the correct size.. ESPECIALLY if you you are going to do BIAB in it...

 

[jeffreyabr]

It'll work great. Don't sweat it. Keep in mind most of us run 5.5 or 6.0 gallons into the fermenter to end up with 5 gallons @ packaging. Also, with boiloff, you'll start your boil closer to 7 or 8 gallons. For BIAB, you'll want to have all that volume as well. I guarantee once you start using it, you'll love it (while wondering what all the fuss is about with regard to boilovers, which you'll likely never have with all that extra space).

Bigger is better. When you mash you will do it with 8+ gallons of water and you will have the volume of wet grains-- usually between 10 and 15 pounds of it-- also taking up room. You will lose a gallon at least to the grains when you pull the bag and you'll boil off the rest... trust me.. 8 to 9 gallons is about the right amount of water to start off with for a 5.5 gallon batch (0.5 gallons will be lost to trub, etc..)

Mount your valves as low as possible on it (and your element if you become smart about it ) and you'll be fine. I use a keg for my 15.5 gallon pot and it's just big enough for BIAB on a 10 gallon batch if it's not too high of OG...

Seriously this is the correct size.. ESPECIALLY if you you are going to do BIAB in it...

Thanks for cooling my head guys. I figured I was gonna be okay, but didn't consider how much extra water I'd be starting off with, plus the displacement due to the grains.

@LLBeanJ Dead on - I intentionally went with the larger capacity (versus the equally priced 10-gallon variation) so that I'll hopefully never know what a boilover is.

Glad I didn't go overboard. Looking forward to putting this guy to some use.

 

[kev211]

Thats the exact kettle I use for my boil kettle. Love the thing. Ive never had a boil over but the hot break usually gets pretty close to the top (and I do all 5 gal batches). Only suggestion I would make is to get rid of the ball valve it comes with. The thing is garbage. Mine was all rusted out on the inside so they sent me another ball valve. Ran a test boil with just water and the thing rusted again. Went and bought a 3 piece ball valve and have had no complaints.

 

[jeffreyabr]

Thats the exact kettle I use for my boil kettle. Love the thing. Ive never had a boil over but the hot break usually gets pretty close to the top (and I do all 5 gal batches). Only suggestion I would make is to get rid of the ball valve it comes with. The thing is garbage. Mine was all rusted out on the inside so they sent me another ball valve. Ran a test boil with just water and the thing rusted again. Went and bought a 3 piece ball valve and have had no complaints.

Ah, dude, where were you when I was making my decision before? Good to hear someone else has used it with success.

I had read the ball valve isn't the best in the Amazon reviews. I haven't taken the pieces out of their packaging yet, but people mentioned there was some kind of residue/lubricant/grease on the components that was hard to sterilize and get off.

Any idea what you bought to replace the stock ball valve with? I just buy that if you think it'll save me in the long run.

 

[LLBeanJ]

Only suggestion I would make is to get rid of the ball valve it comes with. The thing is garbage. Mine was all rusted out on the inside so they sent me another ball valve. Ran a test boil with just water and the thing rusted again. Went and bought a 3 piece ball valve and have had no complaints.

Agreed. Get a 3-piece ball valve, as they can actually be cleaned. The 2-piece ones, not so much.

Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Valve-Piece-Stainless-WOG1000/dp/B00N8BIEBA/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41726hmWDgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=06GBAGRR25NG1CHM4N7Q

 

[UndeadFred]

I have a three piece on mine. Having said that.. if you are set up to easily be able to take the valve out of the kettle, it is no harder to clean a two piece-- easier and faster, actually than the three piece. It depends if you want not to remove the valve or not. You risk tearing up the O-ring on a weldless setup, but since you can buy a bag of silicon O-rings from Amazon or E-bay for $5-7/100 ... eh...

Certainly if you have a welded port the two piece would be fine...

Bargainfittings.com is a good source if you need several pieces of something, otherwise, Amazon or e-bay if you can wait...

 

[LLBeanJ]

The cleaning problem comes when it is time to actually disassemble the valve (not just remove it from the kettle). The 2-piece valves are not made to be easily taken apart.

I have a 3-piece on a weldless setup and remove it after every brew session. I usually just give it a thorough rinse, but after a while it becomes necessary to get the wrenches out and break the valve down to its components to get the gunk out of it. A 2-piece valve does not lend itself to this task very well. Also, I think the 3-piece valves are just better made.

 

[kev211]

Ah, dude, where were you when I was making my decision before? Good to hear someone else has used it with success.

I had read the ball valve isn't the best in the Amazon reviews. I haven't taken the pieces out of their packaging yet, but people mentioned there was some kind of residue/lubricant/grease on the components that was hard to sterilize and get off.

Any idea what you bought to replace the stock ball valve with? I just buy that if you think it'll save me in the long run.

Actually... I bought this one \/\/

Edit: And yes, it did have some nasty oil crap on the inside, but a little bit of simple green and a nice soak took care of that. But it was still garbage

Agreed. Get a 3-piece ball valve, as they can actually be cleaned. The 2-piece ones, not so much.

Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Valve-Piece-Stainless-WOG1000/dp/B00N8BIEBA/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41726hmWDgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=06GBAGRR25NG1CHM4N7Q

 

[jeffreyabr]

Actually... I bought this one \/\/

Edit: And yes, it did have some nasty oil crap on the inside, but a little bit of simple green and a nice soak took care of that. But it was still garbage

Awesome, I'm placing the order on Amazon right now then. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[UndeadFred]

The 2 piece valves I have come apart fine with two wrenches. I have no idea what you are talking about. But you do need to remove them from the kettle. The three piece ones need all four bolts taken off and take longer to undo but don't have to come off the kettle. The ball and stem themselves are exactly the same.

 

[jeffreyabr]

The 2 piece valves I have come apart fine with two wrenches. I have no idea what you are talking about. But you do need to remove them from the kettle. The three piece ones need all four bolts taken off and take longer to undo but don't have to come off the kettle. The ball and stem themselves are exactly the same.

Already bit the bullet and bought the 3-piece valve that was posted earlier. But after what I heard about the one that comes with this kettle, both here and on Amazon, I'm happy to go the extra mile.

 

[UndeadFred]

Already bit the bullet and bought the 3-piece valve that was posted earlier. But after what I heard about the one that comes with this kettle, both here and on Amazon, I'm happy to go the extra mile.

That is perfectly fine, it literally comes down to preference. I have the three piece on my setup because it would be a bigger PITA to take it completely out due to the element and bazooka tube being in the way. But I do read that 2 piece ones are impossible to clean all of the time and that's just wrong. There is a nut molded on the other side of the valve and you just unscrew the two pieces with two wrenches..

Either ones are basically the same internally in the business pieces. Enjoy..

Fred

 

[LLBeanJ]

But I do read that 2 piece ones are impossible to clean all of the time and that's just wrong.

You've read that because it's true.

With the 2-piece valves, once you've separated the two halves, the ball stays in one piece and can be difficult to get out of it. It requires removing the handle nut, then the handle, then finagling the ball out of the casting. That half cannot be completely cleaned in the area between the ball and the pipe threads unless the ball is removed. A real PITA is my experience.

With the 3-piece units, the ball stays in the center section and you have complete access to all parts as soon as you separate the 3 sections. No need to remove the handle or take the ball out of the middle section. Much easier, IMO. Of course, YMMV.

 

[kev211]

You've read that because it's true.

With the 2-piece valves, once you've separated the two halves, the ball stays in one piece and can be difficult to get out of it. It requires removing the handle nut, then the handle, then finagling the ball out of the casting. That half cannot be completely cleaned in the area between the ball and the pipe threads unless the ball is removed. A real PITA is my experience.

With the 3-piece units, the ball stays in the center section and you have complete access to all parts as soon as you separate the 3 sections. No need to remove the handle or take the ball out of the middle section. Much easier, IMO. Of course, YMMV.

Touche. I can completely break down, clean, and rebuild my 3 piece in under 10 minutes (and that includes making sure all the nuts and bolts are tightened down evenly).

 

[UndeadFred]

Well, not the two piece valves I have. The ball slides out just like the three piece. Maybe it depends on where you buy it from.

 

[nicolas_james]

The 2 piece valves I have come apart fine with two wrenches. I have no idea what you are talking about. But you do need to remove them from the kettle. The three piece ones need all four bolts taken off and take longer to undo but don't have to come off the kettle. The ball and stem themselves are exactly the same.

I never remove all four bolts on my 3-piece. 2 out and loosen the other two.

 

[augiedoggy]

So I went ahead and purchased most of the equipment on the list that I laid out on here the other week. Thanks again to all those who gave some input.

I just got my Bayou Classic 1064 Stainless 16-Gallon Stockpot, and I'm wondering if I went too big.

I had imagined I would do some 5 gallon batches with the thing, but upon seeing the actual size of the kettle, it looks like I get maybe 6 inches off the bottom of the pot before I hit the 5 gallon mark.

Is this going to be feasible to get some 5 gallon all-grain batches out of? Is it going to be possible to BIAB with only 6 inches between the water and the bottom? Should I think about returning it?

I make 5.5 gallon brews in the same kettles all the time with no issues... I even use the same size kettles for a MT and HLT... it all works fine with my electric setup.

 

[augiedoggy]

Thats the exact kettle I use for my boil kettle. Love the thing. Ive never had a boil over but the hot break usually gets pretty close to the top (and I do all 5 gal batches). Only suggestion I would make is to get rid of the ball valve it comes with. The thing is garbage. Mine was all rusted out on the inside so they sent me another ball valve. Ran a test boil with just water and the thing rusted again. Went and bought a 3 piece ball valve and have had no complaints.

I dont care for the handles on the ballvalves mine came with so I replaced all but one but I havent had any rusting issues myself? Been using it for over a year now.. I pull my 2 piece valves on my conicals apart and clean them all the time but I just CIP with my hot side ball valves , the few times I pulled them apart to check they were clean... I dont see the point in disassembling everything myself when recirculating with PBW while acuating the valves a few times does a great job of cleaning them.

 

[kev211]

I dont care for the handles on the ballvalves mine came with so I replaced all but one but I havent had any rusting issues myself? Been using it for over a year now.. I pull my 2 piece valves on my conicals apart and clean them all the time but I just CIP with my hot side ball valves , the few times I pulled them apart to check they were clean... I dont see the point in disassembling everything myself when recirculating with PBW while acuating the valves a few times does a great job of cleaning them.

Ya, mine came rusted out of the box, brand new. I used a wire fitting brush to clean the rust out, but I still didnt trust it. So for the amount of time and effort I put into the batches I could justify a $30 ballvalve

 

[UndeadFred]

I pull my 2 piece valves on my conicals apart and clean them all the time but I just CIP with my hot side ball valves , the few times I pulled them apart to check they were clean... I dont see the point in disassembling everything myself when recirculating with PBW while acuating the valves a few times does a great job of cleaning them.

Well.. I've been pretty lax on cleaning my valves too but I flush them with at least hot water every time I use them.. usually PBW... and I was utterly amazed on how clean they were when I took them apart to clean them. I certainly do NOT clean them every time on the hot side! I didn't want to mention that because I didn't want the criticism....

 

[jeffreyabr]

Actually... I bought this one \/\/

Edit: And yes, it did have some nasty oil crap on the inside, but a little bit of simple green and a nice soak took care of that. But it was still garbage

So when you got this 3-piece valve, did you just use the bulkhead that came with our kettle? Or did you get something else in addition?

 

[kev211]

So when you got this 3-piece valve, did you just use the bulkhead that came with our kettle? Or did you get something else in addition?

No, that was the part that was rusted the worst so I had to buy a new bulkhead. This little feller is the one I used Bulkhead

 

[LLBeanJ]

I used the same bulkhead when I switched from a 2-piece to a 3-piece.

 

[jeffreyabr]

No, that was the part that was rusted the worst so I had to buy a new bulkhead. This little feller is the one I used Bulkhead

Thanks. I'll add it to the Amazon Wish List. If I find a speck of rust or imperfection, I'll pull the trigger.

I used the same bulkhead when I switched from a 2-piece to a 3-piece.

Did you also get the Bayou kettle like kev211 and I have? Ever had any issues with the bulkhead?

 

[LLBeanJ]

Did you also get the Bayou kettle like kev211 and I have? Ever had any issues with the bulkhead?

No, I have a MegaPot and the bulkhead is a generic weldless version that came with it. It looks identical to the Amazon one that kev211 linked. Seems to be holding up fine so far after about 1.5 years.

 

[jeffreyabr]

No, I have a MegaPot and the bulkhead is a generic weldless version that came with it. It looks identical to the Amazon one that kev211 linked. Seems to be holding up fine so far after about 1.5 years.

Gotcha. Maybe I'll just go for it and grab one for peace of mind. I've taken apart the one I got with my kettle and see no rust or deterioration, but if you guys swear by that one, $8 is a small price to pay for guaranteed functionality.

 

[kev211]

see no rust or deterioration,.

Give it time, itll rust. I agree, the $8 is a small price to pay for never having to worry about it.

 

[augiedoggy]

Give it time, itll rust. I agree, the $8 is a small price to pay for never having to worry about it.

I would think mine would have rusted by now being that its been a year and I use it often...

Something else that confuses me... I hear all this talk about having to take the handle off and remove these valves from the kettles to clean so I checked mine out.... All I have to do is unscrew the end and turn the valve to the closed position and the ball pops right out? No need to remove anything from the kettle or undo multiple bolts... To me it seems this type of valve is easier to clean.