Diagnosing e-stop problem

[beernutz]

I have spent the last few days finally wiring up the control panel for my natural gas fired HERMS and everything works perfectly except for my implementation of P-Js e-stop technique of intentionally shorting to ground to trigger a GFCI shutoff.

I have an 1NO/1NC mushroom button (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00548585A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20), using the NC side, with a ground wire connected to one side and on the other hot side I have two 1kohm/1watt resistors in series on the wire leading back to a 1amp fuse. Pushing the e-stop button does nothing when the control panel is plugged into a GFCI wall outlet or to a GFCI outlet adapter.

I guess the e-stop button is redundant to my power key but since I went to the trouble of installing it I'd like it to function correctly.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[neild5]

If the power key powers a contactor I would wire the mushroom in series with the power key.

 

[beernutz]

If the power key powers a contactor I would wire the mushroom in series with the power key.

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm not using a contactor. I am more or less following this diagram of P-Js except I'm using the SYL-2362 PID and not the 2342 and my timer is the JSL-73B not the 73A.

 

[dfborn]

Unless I'm misunderstanding the diagram, the estop should be a Normally Open switch.

I wouldn't think the panel would function with the switch NC unless you've grounding issues.

 

[beernutz]

Unless I'm misunderstanding the diagram, the estop should be a Normally Open switch.

I wouldn't think the panel would function with the switch NC unless you've grounding issues.

Good catch, thanks. I do have the button wired on its NO side, not the NC side. However I just tried wiring it through the NC side and the control panel still powered up so perhaps the button doesn't work or I have grounding issues.

 

[BrunDog]

Now is a great time to abandon the E-stop ground fault wiring method. Discussed ad nauseum elsewhere. I would put the NC E-stop inline with the power switch (key or Power Control).

 

[everbuddy]

Have you checked that 1A fuse ahead of the e-stop to verify that it's not blown?

 

[beernutz]

Have you checked that 1A fuse ahead of the e-stop to verify that it's not blown?

Yes, thanks I replaced it with a new one and no change.

 

[beernutz]

Doh! Like many of my problems, this one was self-inflicted. I re-soldered all the connections and the e-stop button works perfectly now. Thanks again to all those who provided constructive suggestions.

 

[dmcman73]

No No No No!!!! Do not install a E-Stop to trip a GFCI!!!! That is NOT what they are meant to do and you are intentionally putting voltage to ground. A GFCI is an emergency "net" in the event that power leaks to neutral.

Why do people put E-Stops on an electric brewery anyway? These E-Stops were meant to be installed on a mechanical system in the event that an article of clothing or something else unintentionally gets caught into moving parts, it makes it easier to stop when someone who is frantic is swiping at the panel.

On an electric brewery, your GFCI circuit is your e-stop if there is a short to ground to prevent you from being electrocuted and it's automatic. Anything else can be turned off with the regular switches on the panel. If you really want an emergency cut off in the event of a fire, place a large cut off switch midway, from the rig that will cut power off to the whole rig WITHOUT purposely tripping the circuit. If a fire breaks out or some other emergency, you're not going to try to venture close to the rig to reach your brewing control the panel that's why this cutoff switch would be placed just a bit further away from the rig where you would also have a fire extinguisher as well.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Indoor-Safety-Switch-TGN3322/100676700