My MM2 has been great. Went for a 2 roller with the bigger 2" rollers after reading about additional pains with a 3 roller mill.
I bought the Kegco, mainly for the bearings. I then built a large base and a hopper extension. The only thing I don't like about the Kegco is that it has stainless rollers.View attachment 679660View attachment 679661
Before and after.
....What do u have the gap set at? Do u condition the grains? .....
As you will see, many HBT members mill at different gap sizes Vote for your Grain mill Gap setting It really is going to depend upon your setup/process and how much you fine tune to achieve efficiency. You will need to dial it in to your setup. Personally, I mill at .035 with my setup.
Since you are learning about grain mills, you might find the thread below beneficial to learn about using a drill with high torgue and low RPMs...... So what’s the right Harbor Freight drill for a mill? 20% off coupon out now
I have mine set at .025. I think I ordered mine from MoreBeer, and it did come with the black metal plate, which is very sturdy. However, it does not come with the plywood. The way it is intended to be used is upside down from the way I have it in the picture. The lips on the plate are supposed to fit inside a bucket to keep the mill positioned. The drawback with that is the large gap left exposed allows grain dust to go everywhere. When I first set it up, I reversed the metal base and added the plywood just to keep the dust in check.my plan is to have it set up like your second pic. What do u have the gap set at? Do u condition the grains? Did yours come with the black plate base and if it did is it quality or just better to mount it as you have it in the second pic.
I have mine set at .025. I think I ordered mine from MoreBeer, and it did come with the black metal plate, which is very sturdy. However, it does not come with the plywood. The way it is intended to be used is upside down from the way I have it in the picture. The lips on the plate are supposed to fit inside a bucket to keep the mill positioned. The drawback with that is the large gap left exposed allows grain dust to go everywhere. When I first set it up, I reversed the metal base and added the plywood just to keep the dust in check.
And no, I don't condition the grains.
BTW, I still use the metal base plate, but I used the lip to attach a hinge.View attachment 679703
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thnaks for the reply. So could I remove the base plate and either build my own like u have or I think u said it’ll fit the monster mill base plate as well and I could just buy that, right?
I don't know if the monster mill plate will fit or not.
I only used the plate so I could hinge the whole mill to check the gap. There are graduations on the adjusting knobs, but I like to check the gap with a feeler gauge.
Thats a nice setup.My MM3 setup works great. Would I buy it now with so many options, I’m not sure. A true sealed bearing would be an improvement. The stainless rolls show no wear. I’ve probably ran 40-50 sacks through it. I bought the stainless because of conditioning.
I really like that idea. So you flipped the metal base and hinged it to flip the mill so u can measure the gap. I’m pretty anal about stuff like this and like the way this sets up. Where did u get the base board it’s mounted on? And the hinge?
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Ok. The hinge is from Home Depot. The plastic bin is from Walmart. The wheeled base is from a furniture dolly from Harbor Freight. The sheet metal for the hopper extension, Home Depot. The angle iron reinforcing the top deck is from an old bed frame. Paint from home Depot. All wood from my shed.