Danby DAR125SLDD Kegerator Build

[xto]

The door panel super easy. Just be careful not to tear the rubber door seal and you'll be fine. My only issue with the door was the clear acrylic sheet I used. it's really brittle, so make sure you pre-drill the holes for the screws. Using the removed door panel to line up the holes works well.

 

[beingboston]

I just ordered my Darby durring my Black Friday Amazon Binge (oops!)

I have a Dual regulator setup with a 5LB co2 tank along with two ball lock cornies.

Going with the Picnic taps for now, but I'll add a dual tap tower maybe after I get my taxes back or when that money tree in the back yard starts showing some more promise.

Thanks for all the advice! Getting the Dremel ready to cut the door flat next week.

Tim

 

[JayStizzo]

Finally completed my build... this thread was really helpful to me, unfortunately I got so excited about the build that I forgot to take pictures throughout the process.

Here is the result....

 

[FatTonyTCL]

I just completed my Kegerator build. I've posted a fairly detailed walk-through on my personal blog. This thread helped me a ton, thanks guys!

Walkthrough

Two Pin-Lock Kegs hanging out together!

 

[donjonson]

I just completed my Kegerator build. I've posted a fairly detailed walk-through on my personal blog. This thread helped me a ton, thanks guys!

Walkthrough

Two Pin-Lock Kegs hanging out together!

I just got the same model fridge and descovered the same door pane issue. I read your linked blog. Do you have an other advice about herring the door panel off?

Also how does the copper pipe work for you keeping the lines in the tower cool?

 

[FatTonyTCL]

I just got the same model fridge and descovered the same door pane issue. I read your linked blog. Do you have an other advice about herring the door panel off?

Also how does the copper pipe work for you keeping the lines in the tower cool?

The only extra advice I can give is to be as gentle and patient as possible, I was only half joking about the machete...the blade would long enough to cut from the edge of the door to the different raised parts of the insulated areas. If you can cut the raised parts off somehow from the front, the areas flush/parallel with the door were the easiest to pull off.

The copper pipe seems to be working, after not having one of the beers for a couple of days I didn't notice any extra amount of head from my pours. For the price/effort I would say its worth a shot.

Good luck with that door!

 

[Stephen_mc]

Very neat job. It's not totally clear from the pic. Did you use the dremel to cut the frame the out also?

 

[FatTonyTCL]

Very neat job. It's not totally clear from the pic. Did you use the dremel to cut the frame the out also?

After I cut the main part of the plastic away I carefully worked the frame out using a screwdriver and knife.

 

[Stephen_mc]

What did you use to cut the white board? Sorry about all the questions. I'm light on tools in my apt.

 

[donjonson]

What did you use to cut the white board? Sorry about all the questions. I'm light on tools in my apt.

He used a dremel tool. You can se all the details on the link he put in his post.

 

[FatTonyTCL]

What did you use to cut the white board? Sorry about all the questions. I'm light on tools in my apt.

I used painters tape and a circle saw. I think any saw would work though just make sure you keep your board from vibrating too much. The excess parts without the painters tape chipped a bit so thats a step I wouldn't recommend skipping.
This pic shows the white board after it was cut.

 

[opusx11]

DeNomad, I finally found the fridge at the Winterburn Costco, same model. I picked one up today, but am just going to ensure it works fully before I start destroying it. I think I'm in the same boat as the others though where the door does not have screws. I'll have to see if someone I know has a dremel or something to help get it off.

 

[donjonson]

No. If you look at the photos the kegs almost reach the end of the fridge, maybe 1-2" from the edge. The drink holders on the door would bump into the kegs for sure.

I am able to get a single ball lock keg in this fridge without any modifications to the door. the only thing I had to do was remove the removable shelving from the opening side of the door. 1 keg fits in just fine.

On that note, has anyone with this fridge been able to get a ball lock keg + 1 commercial sixth keg in there? would that fit? a ball lock has 8.5" diameter and according to a web resource a sixth keg has a 9.25" diameter.

 

[donjonson]

I don't think so. You *might* be able to squeeze an 11" diameter bucket. Here are the dimensions I measured when I was choosing between ball lock and pin lock kegs. Since the pin locks wouldn't fit as shown below I chose ball lock.

how did you measure the inner dimensions of the fridge with such accuracy?

 

[wsender]

how did you measure the inner dimensions of the fridge with such accuracy?

Yes, thousands of an inch is pretty precise...

 

[donjonson]

You have to remove the plastic mold on the inside door to be able to fit any kegs....if you do remove it (which is super easy and doesnt damage the fridge in any way) you will be able to fit up to 2 ball lock kegs, or one ball lock and one pin lock. If you only put one ball lock in there you would still have half of the fridge space for other stuff. Ive had it for some time now and I can honestly say its an awesome fridge.

Cheers!

how much wiggle room do you have with one ball lock and one pin lock? I am thinking about putting in a ball lock and a sixth commercial keg. the ball lock is 8.5" diameter and from what I gather online the sixth is 9.25" diameter. just .25 more than a pin lock do you think there is enough room in there for what I am trying to do?

 

[DeNomad]

how did you measure the inner dimensions of the fridge with such accuracy?

I used a tape measure and a pair of calipers. Measured the width of the outside, then calipers on the wall thickness. Inner width = Outside width - 2*thickness. I forget how I measured the length but I likely did something similar. The gray dimensions are reference dimensions calculated by the CAD program.

 

[DeNomad]

how much wiggle room do you have with one ball lock and one pin lock? I am thinking about putting in a ball lock and a sixth commercial keg. the ball lock is 8.5" diameter and from what I gather online the sixth is 9.25" diameter. just .25 more than a pin lock do you think there is enough room in there for what I am trying to do?

My recommendation is to cut out circles of cardboard of the correct diameter and toss them in there, see what you think. Be aware of the plastic tabs where the shelves sit since that is the tightest part of the fridge. Mark 3/4" away from the side wall, that is where the plastic tabs extend too.

Off the top of my head...
1 ball lock + 1 pin lock: Probably would need to cut out the bits of plastic the shelves sit on to make this work. 2 ball locks are very tight already.

1 ball lock + 1 commercial keg: Definitely need to cut out the bits of plastic the shelves sit on. No guarantee here. Kinda doubt it.

 

[nlanzillo]

I just purchased this model, but can't seem to find any screws along the door. Pulled the gasket back, but zero screws. Any suggestions?

 

[BansheeRider]

I just purchased this model, but can't seem to find any screws along the door. Pulled the gasket back, but zero screws. Any suggestions?

Danby now glues the shelving to the door and insulating foam. You have to cut around with a dremel or just cut the shelving out.

 

[jeffersonjames]

I just purchased this model, but can't seem to find any screws along the door. Pulled the gasket back, but zero screws. Any suggestions?

This is what I built mine out of. I just cut out the shelving. It was a little messy and not as pretty to look at but it works great. I used white duct tape to fix the cosmetics.

 

[nlanzillo]

Appreciate your help. Should be a thrilling project now

 

[BansheeRider]

Appreciate your help. Should be a thrilling project now

Do you have two kegs? One keg will fit without any door modifications....https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/completed-my-danby-dar440bl-kegerator-build-395065/

 

[FatTonyTCL]

Nlanzillo, check out my blog, I had the same issue, this might help you make some decisions.

http://www.fattonytcl.blogspot.com/2012/12/how-my-little-kegger.html

 

[BansheeRider]

Nlanzillo, check out my blog, I had the same issue, this might help you make some decisions.

http://www.fattonytcl.blogspot.com/2012/12/how-my-little-kegger.html

I will do this for the door for sure. I have a couple questions....where did you get the white board, source? And when cutting the white board did you measure the full length of the frame or just to the cut you created with the dremel?

 

[nlanzillo]

Thanks FatTonyTCL...great breakdown on your process. Will use your blog post, once I purchase a new dremel.

 

[Stephen_mc]

I got some whiteboard at Joanne's fabric for under 10 bucks and cut it down to size.

 

[FatTonyTCL]

I paid way too much for my whiteboard ($25-ish), which I'm still bitter about, I didn't even think to shop around for some reason (too much beer?). When I cut my frame from the plastic on the door I left a little lip on the inside for the whiteboard to sit under, I cut it to that size. Good luck!

 

[BansheeRider]

I ended up cutting the shelving out and a notch at the bottom of the door, sealed the exposed foam with white silicone sealant. Two corny kegs fit perfectly now.




Maybe some day I'll cut the whole thing and put in a white board.

 

[opusx11]

I have very similar cuts in my door, and two ball-lock kegs fit no issue. I used the ugly aluminum tape over the silicone though as added protection (mostly due to paranoia about the silicone having a small gap somewhere). I am still using picnic taps though, hoping to get a tower soon. Is the fridge hard to drill through? Any recommendations on a hole saw?