Daisy chain vs. home run for panel switches, indicators, PID, etc.?

[jeffmeh]

Under what conditions is it reasonable to daisy chain the wiring vs. running a separate wire to a component?

For example, lets say a panel front has (all 120v):
1) A Main Power switch, illuminated LED selector, that controls a contactor to cut power to the panel
2) A PID
3) An Element Power switch, illuminated LED selector, that controls a contactor to cut power to the element
4) A Pump Power switch, illuminated LED selector, that controls power to the pump outlet
5) An illuminated LED alarm buzzer
6) An Alarm switch, illuminated LED selector, that controls power to the alarm buzzer

The question here concerns the line side of the hot runs and the neutral runs. The line side of the main power switch will need to be separate, so that's not relevant. Neither is the load side of all the switches, as they will need to run to whatever they are switching.

So, would it be reasonable to just run one hot and one neutral to power all this stuff? The hot would go to the PID line in, to the element switch line in, to the pump switch line in. The neutral would go to the main power switch, to the PID, to the element switch, to the pump switch, to the alarm switch, to the alarm buzzer.

This is desirable, as it minimizes the number of wires that must go from the baseplate and box components up to the cover components.

I assume this is fine, as it is really only using the line and neutral terminals like a terminal block, but please correct me if I am mistaken. Thanks.

 

[P-J]

***
I assume this is fine, as it is really only using the line and neutral terminals like a terminal block, but please correct me if I am mistaken. Thanks.

I believe you are A-Ok doing it that way. You are dealing with low power devices & don't see any problems with the method.

P-J

 

[jeffmeh]

Thanks as always P-J. I figured as much (and I do enjoy working through this stuff myself), but it is great to get confirmation from someone more knowledgeable than I.

 

[Huff360]

Agreed. With low power devices it is no problem.

I typically try to daisy chain "down" in current draw. So that the highest draw device is nearest the source and the lowest current device has to go through the most connections.

I wouldn't run your heating element daisy chained off the connection on the back of a lighted switch, but I wouldn't worry with running a lighted switch off the connection on the heating element. (Just as an example)

 

[The10mmKid]

Every attempt should be made to daisy-chain the control voltage wiring. Almost all terminals will accept two wires.

As for the grounds, every attempt should be made to terminate them to a common point.

'da Kid

 

[processhead]

For control circuits, lamps, etc, conductor ampacity is usually not an issue and daisy chaining is fine.

For power circuits it is still preferable to source L1, L2 N and Ground circuits from a single distribution bus (home run) to their respective loads.

 

[kal]

For control circuits, lamps, etc, conductor ampacity is usually not an issue and daisy chaining is fine.

For power circuits it is still preferable to source L1, L2 N and Ground circuits from a single distribution bus (home run) to their respective loads.

+1 to this.

Kal

 

[jeffmeh]

Thanks to all. That is how I have drawn it up. Basically, it steals the key principles from Kal's build, stripped down for a single element, single pump, e-BIAB setup. The front panel includes only the elements described above, plus a 240v LED element on indicator. Inside the box would be two contactors (for main power and element power), a 7a fast blow fuse, and two double row, 3-position terminal blocks. The grounds from the power in, element power out, and pump power out would be tied together on one post of the terminal block. The hot load from the main power contactor would go through the fuse to the same terminal block, with a vacant position in between it and the ground, and up to the panel front for the 120v devices. The second terminal block will be used for the neutrals.

I laid it all out drawn to scale, to confirm that it would fit in a relatively small plastic box. BUD Industries NBB-15243 Style B Plastic Outdoor NEMA Box with Solid Door, 11-17/64" Length x 7-15/32" Width x 5-1/2" Height, Light Gray Finish.