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Cut keg top for false bottom?

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Here's my contribution to the keggle lid as a false bottom. I cut the top off, cut pie shaped wedges and then covered with a bit of mesh made from a delicates wash bag picked up at Target for about 3 bucks.
IMG_20110224_204207a.jpg

I've made 6 11 gallon batches with out a single stuck sparge.
 
For larger gain bills I will use 1 mash paddle to hold it in place while stirring. For smaller grain bills I just stir gently. And since I bottom drain a little shifting side to side doesn't break the seal around the bottom.
 
Here's my contribution to the keggle lid as a false bottom. I cut the top off, cut pie shaped wedges and then covered with a bit of mesh made from a delicates wash bag picked up at Target for about 3 bucks.
IMG_20110224_204207a.jpg

I've made 6 11 gallon batches with out a single stuck sparge.


How do you have the mesh attached to the lid?
 
SWMBO made it for me. It's about 2 inches larger in diameter than the lid. She put a draw string around the edge so it's a simple matter to put the material down, put the lid on top, pull the draw string tight and tie it off. All I have to do is tuck the string in so it doesn't end up hanging down into the drain.
 
Anyone have any more pics of their coverted covers to FB's. I have a keg to cut in the next week or so and think that since I have the majority of the items needs to complete the project I just may. I'm thinking about drilling holes and using a union connection with 1/2" rigid copper pipe.

Let's see what you have to share.
 
Great idea I used the bottom of a sanke that was hoplessly damaged. My holes are to small I think, have not used it yet.


028.jpg
 
Just found this post. going from cooler to keggle. Pretty usefull and cool project.
Started drilling all those damn little holes but have had a problem. How the heck dop you keep the bit from dancing around? Do you drill sanke coupling side up or down? I have been doing it that side up and the bit shimmies and shakes and bends like no ones buisness. Any pointers? I have extra lids so maybe I'll do the slits as well and see if there is any difference.
 
x2 on the nail... easiest way to do it, although i do usually use a punch, enless i am too lazy to go find it. I have had some recent problems with mine, one in which the bottom was lifted a bit, and allowed some grain to get by. The other was just a gooey mass of oats and wheat that clogged the whole bed of grain. I cannot be a larger proponent of rice hulls than is possible! I love em!
 
You could put a tack weld on that leftover sanke ring connecting it to the side of your boil kettle. Could be a holder for your Mash paddle/Stirring spoon?
 
I hit mine with an angle grinder + cutting blade to make slots instead of holes. I thought about holes, but the 10 minutes with the grinder swayed me.
 
Yeah, no doubt. This punching holes is for the birds. Been at it a few days (when the kids are getting baths) and holy crude! Taking forever. Next one will be slots
 
!!! I've been needing an excuse to upgrade to keggles... now I have one! Thanks!! Great project, only thing I will change is welding a SS washer to the opening and welding in the dip tube so there is no fear in the boil kettle.

thanks again and keep up the good work! :mug:
 
knocked one of my washer off the BK, had a splash screen laying around that I was going to make into a FB... tossed it ontop the BK to keep stuff from falling in, turns out it makes a pretty good cover so now I have a cut off top for this project when I can get to it. right now I have my cooler FB in my MT, it's pretty small in there but has been working okay, drains good. I don't think it would work for fly sparging but seems to be doing okay for batch sparging. Now i just need the time.
 
I also got a plastic scrubby from the grocery store to put around the base of the dip tube, due to one time occurance of grain getting around edge of the false bottom, and clogging the dip tube. Works great so far, be even I see myself in the future getting an nice professional false bottom, when all of the other needs of my brewery are solved(years from now).
 
Awesome DIY. I had thought about doing the same thing. Glad I found this one, definately, will use this insight
 
Let's see now:

Estimated $20 for parts & 4-5 hours even at a minimum wage would be roughly another $32 or so for a combined approximate total of $52.

While I admire the effort and your craftsmanship, I really don't understand why you would not simply buy a manufactured FB similar to this one for only $39 plus shipping:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/11-sanke-stainless-steel-false-bottom.html

I like building stuff myself, but sometimes it just seems to make more sense to simply buy it off the shelf.

Some things are not ALL about money!...very often its the satisfaction of creating or making your own stuff for free or on the cheap that holds more appeal than opting for the quick and boring option.......DIY is about fun and creativity and the sense of achievement and pride that it brings...looking at some of the posts here it seems some people have more money than sense or time...pity them for being rich boring poor rushed off their feet souls lol!...:D
 
Tons of great info in this thread, guys! I am only 4 beers-deep in my brewing career, but a friend and I converted a keggle over the weekend with a 12" hole in the top. Standard 12" pot cover fits like a glove! My question to you guys with the slitted keg top for the false bottom is does it perform up to par? I have access to a drill press at work, but I could do the slits at home. What would you guys recommend?
 
Ahfack said:
Tons of great info in this thread, guys! I am only 4 beers-deep in my brewing career, but a friend and I converted a keggle over the weekend with a 12" hole in the top. Standard 12" pot cover fits like a glove! My question to you guys with the slitted keg top for the false bottom is does it perform up to par? I have access to a drill press at work, but I could do the slits at home. What would you guys recommend?

I made slits with an angle grinder and also drilled some holes with a drill. Works like a charm, haven't had any problems yet.
 
I have brewed MANY of batches on mine. I have only had issues where I ground the grain to fine, I chalk this to brewer failure not part failure. FWIW even under those dismal conditions it still worked.

I have brewed some of the stickiest mashes known to brewers (pumpkin ales) in mine. I am still even using the same bung...

I have direct fired it and used my RIMS system in tandem with it. Best reuse of scrap I have done to date.
 
Thanks for the replies! I will definitely do the combination of slits + holes to ensure performance. Right now, I just have the 1 keggle, which is acting as my kettle (untill now I've been using a friend's burner/kettle), I got a sightglass/thermometer combo on the way from Bobby. I think when I convert my next keggle for all grain, I'll put the spigot on the bottom, and already have this part ready! Thanks again, guys!
 
I thought about this when I got my first keg, cut and tossed the top into the scrap bin. I was pissed when I did a search and found this thread. Now, I have 2 more kegs, got one cut and I am drilling the holes now.
I recommend titanium drill bits. I've done have the holes on one bit.
Also I am thinking of using a stainless steel braid under the KTFB as a backup. I have a corona style mill, and i get a lot of flour.
Now, what can we do with the spears from the kegs
 
Riddei said:
I thought about this when I got my first keg, cut and tossed the top into the scrap bin. I was pissed when I did a search and found this thread. Now, I have 2 more kegs, got one cut and I am drilling the holes now.
I recommend titanium drill bits. I've done have the holes on one bit.
Also I am thinking of using a stainless steel braid under the KTFB as a backup. I have a corona style mill, and i get a lot of flour.
Now, what can we do with the spears from the kegs

I made a mash paddle with the shank and a piece of the lid. Looks great.
 

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