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theashman661

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I will be brewing a porter soon with WLP002 yeast. I have another recipe that calls out for the same yeast, and I want to use that yeast for both batches to save $ and to learn something new. The second batch will be a few weeks to a month after the first batch. So I had some questions:

What's the best way to extract the yeast after I rack off for bottling?
What should I do with it after that? Container, storage, feed the yeast?
How long will the yeast stay good in that condition? and should I do anything special to it prior to re-pitching in my second batch??

Thank you in advance for your guys input!!
 
Good luck with your porter! I handle this problem by stepping up a vial into multiple 1L starters, and then I save one for future use. Other's certainly do it differently, but I find this method works the best for me and is quite simple.

1. Determine the predicted OG for your first beer.
2. Visit Mr. Malty to determine how large a starter you need for this beer. If you don't have a stir plate (you're in good company if you don't), plan to intermitently shake the starter.
3. Create a 1L starter using 1/2c DME to 2c water. I like to make my starters in sanitized juice bottles. This has a few advantages - first, they're disposable. Second, you can tighten the cap to shake the starter really well. Third, you have way more headspace. I've done starters in mason jars with foil, and it's a pain. They almost always blow off, and shaking is a chore. With juice bottles, I tighten the cap, shake once, burp, and repeat. When it's all said and done, I throw the bottle away.
4. At this point, you have a 1L starter fermenting on your counter. Make sure you continue to intermitently shake, and give it enough time to fully attenuate. I find this takes about 2 days. There certainly isn't any rush.
5. With the 1L starter complete, put it in the fridge for a day and then decant.
6. Now, make enough wort for as many 1L starters as you need +1. If you need two litres of starter for your porter, make three litres. Use the same rate of DME to water as above.
7. Split the 1L starter you made between the containers you're using to make your starter.
8. Once the yeast has reached room temp, and the wort has cooled to room temp, split the wort evenly onto the yeast.
9. Intermitently shake these starters until they've reached full attenuation, chill in the fridge, and then decant all of them.
10. Combine all the yeast from the starters save one into a single container (I use mason jars). Pour sterile water (bottled water or boiled tap water) on top to almost fill the container and cover with foil. This will be the starter for your porter. You can save this in your fridge until the day you brew. Be sure to remove this starter from the fridge and let it warm to room temp before you pitch into cool wort.
11. Place the yeast from the remaining 1L starter into its own container (another jar), fill with sterile water, and cover with foil. You can use this starter to create all future yeast for your brews.
12. Repeat the process from step 6 onward using this 1L starter for each new batch of beer. Don't make complete starters for your current and future batches at once if they're spaced by a few weeks - you want to make sure the yeast you pitch is fully viable.

And that's it. 12 steps may seem like a lot, but it's a very simple process - the yeast is doing most of the work. Good luck!
 
I'm new to yeast harvesting but all I did was pour the slurry into a cleaned & sanitized jelly jar, and put it in the fridge. That gave me about 10oz of slurry. Mr. Malty said all I needed was about 2oz of 2week old slurry for 2.5gal. I used about 5oz and my rogue yeast took off nicely in my next batch. I'll be bottling in a week or so, so not absolutely sure how it is going to turn out. I'm a lazy brewer though, always searching for the easiest possible method.

Check out the Mr Malty link above, and see the "repitching from slurry" tab.
 
Barley_bob gave you a great reply, some other thoughts/suggestions from my experience doing this (I brew exclusively from yeast stored in my fridge).

The best time to get yeast for batch 2 may be directly from the top of batch 1, when fermentation is underway you can top-crop to get a nice bit of active yeast.

yeast stores well in the fridge for about a month or so, but I would use the stored yeast to start the starter not to start the new batch. Store a smaller cell count than you need for batch 2 then several days before batch 2 you can use that to make a starter for batch 2, that way its freshly active.

measure your yeast accurately. When you have grown up the yeast you want to pitch you should cold crash then decant, then dump the concentrated yeast into a new sterile container and put it in your fridge, over the next day or so this will settle out and the yeast solids will be on the bottom, you should make markings on this container that let you measure out the number of milliliters of yeast solids you end up with after a day or two, thats the amount of yeast you have to pitch when referencing mrmalty, you'll notice that no matter how dense of a slurry you think you have on day 1, after 24 hours it will have compacted down to 60% of this volume or so, thats the number of milliliters that is being referenced on mrmalty's site. Otherwise you may under pitch by %100.
 
All i ever do now is just leave a little beer above the cake. Mix it all up and then pour it into a clean mason jar then label and put in my fridge. Can't get any more simple. I used to rinse my yeast and all that long drawn out process you can watch on beer channels on youtube. Fun from a process standpoint but absolutely useless otherwise.

I pitch anything less than a month old directly from jar to Carboy. I tend to over pitch as well. I get good results and it is safe.

If I am bored or if i have older yeast i will make a starter with it.



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The best time to get yeast for batch 2 may be directly from the top of batch 1, when fermentation is underway you can top-crop to get a nice bit of active yeast.

yeast stores well in the fridge for about a month or so, but I would use the stored yeast to start the starter not to start the new batch. Store a smaller cell count than you need for batch 2 then several days before batch 2 you can use that to make a starter for batch 2, that way its freshly active.

On your first point, I have heard that top cropped yeast will be most robust and ferment better in future beers, which follows the belief that yeast that's been used for at least one full beer is somehow more mature and effective. Enough people have observed this that it's probably true, but I haven't found it necessary. It's an extra step, and my guess is that reusing the same yeast a half dozen times will accomplish this as well. I haven't been disappointed in my results, so I don't see a need to meddle. But I think you make a sound point. I also haven't used yeast nutrient, but I plan to bring that step into the fold.

On your second point, I may not have been clear, but that is what I do and what I tried to convey to the OP. If I wasn't clear, thanks for making sure to set things straight.

Anyway, the bottom line is that this process works, no matter the nuances, and you can save a starter to step up for future batches, which is what we're both doing (if slightly different), and it's both simple and reliable.
 
Thank you all. I will use all your input and come to some sort of process, after hearing you guys, that am confident will work out for me. I will give this a try and see how it goes!!


Also Aeration: As of now all I have been doing is basically dumping my cooling wort through a sanitized SS strainer to get most of the trup out. I drop it from a good height making a lot of splashing into my bottling bucket.... I then will siphon into my glass carboy and let it drop from the mouth of the carboy hitting the bottom and aggravating a bit more... Do you guys think that this is sufficient aeration? or aeration at all? My lag times seem pretty long, but eventually take off. I was looking into http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/aeration-system.html this aerator. Do you guys think this is too risky to introduce bacteria or do you pretty much think its not as risky as it is purposeful?
 
I dont use direct aeration, I do what you are describing then I shake the carboy back and forth for like 10 min.

My lag time is like 6 hours but I wouldn't worry about how long lag time is so much as are you getting good attenuation and or off flavors? My guess is that what your doing is fine for low gravity wort but not enough for wort 1.050 and up.
 
I dont use direct aeration, I do what you are describing then I shake the carboy back and forth for like 10 min.

My lag time is like 6 hours but I wouldn't worry about how long lag time is so much as are you getting good attenuation and or off flavors? My guess is that what your doing is fine for low gravity wort but not enough for wort 1.050 and up.

I'm usually brewing higher gravity beers 1.6-.08 AG beers

Any thoughts?
 
I'm usually brewing higher gravity beers 1.6-.08 AG beers

Any thoughts?

I shake my bucket pretty vigorously for a timed 5 minutes. By rocking it sharply back and forth while tipped on one edge, I can get it really sloshing around. This is vigorous enough that I pause the timer and take breaks sometimes. I also have very short lag times, even with beers into the 1.07-'s.
 
I shake my bucket pretty vigorously for a timed 5 minutes. By rocking it sharply back and forth while tipped on one edge, I can get it really sloshing around. This is vigorous enough that I pause the timer and take breaks sometimes. I also have very short lag times, even with beers into the 1.07-'s.

Barley Bob,
Would you recommend a aeration pump? http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/aeration-system.html

Or do you think this is a waste and possibly risky??
 
I don't think it's all that risky, but as I understand you can get to air/wort oxygen equilibrium pretty fast by just shaking. See basic brewing radio, I'll have to look up the episode
 
Wine degasser attached to drill is the way to go. Literally whips the bubbles into your beer. Takes me a minute to setup, use and clean.

I graduated from rolling and never looked back.

Next best thing to wine degasser is aeration stone with compressed O2 canister. But that is top level stuff.


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