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Critique my single tier pump plan

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I couldn't do much more until I finished repainting and we were having some cold damp days for a while.

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I used semi gloss black engine paint and then two coats of high temp clear gloss for more protection. A few days of curing and I'll be putting it together and adding the pump.
 
Looking good, Bobby!

Quote: Frankly, I'm pissed that I didn't just get my HLT and MLT's drain bulkheads put in the bottom.

^ That is exactly what I was thinking about doing for my brutus type build. Seems like it would simplify the setup. My only concern is the flame would be in direct contact with that pipe on the bottom of the mash tun heating up the wort within it too much. Do you think that is a valid concern? Although I would be recirculating thoughout the mash....
 
I think it would be easy enough to slightly modify ANY burner to stop a direct flame from hitting the drain pipe. I could also see maybe tacking a piece of SS angle over it as a slight heat shield. In anycase, the flame will be very low when recirculating.
 
Found two murderized shopping carts in the scrap metal pile behind Lowes. Looks like a tractor trailer backed into them. I "might" have stolen the front wheels off of them.
 
I popped the brewstand's cherry this past Sunday, at least the Kettle and HLT. I didn't want to have my MLT not work in front of a dozen spectators so I decided to use the tried and true cooler MLT. It was awesome being able to pump liquids everywhere instead of dumping.

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Also, a few shots of my vessel interiors.

Kettle
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HLT
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MLT
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Priming is always a pain but once you get it, just make sure the head never goes dry again. As you let liquid enter the head from the bottom, make sure the output hose goes straight up with the end open to the air. You'll see bubbles working their way out and then finally it will pump.

I'm going to attach the kegs to the tippy dump frame with stainless bolts right through the bottom skirt. I haven't gotten there just yet. The kegs are currently just resting on the stand.

The paint actually held up really well to the heat so far.
 
I asked about the priming issue cuz my first time with the pump was a week or so ago and it was a pain, i was making a mess and burning my hands. I was basically disconnecting the hose from the outlet and then putting back on quick before i made a mess ( i did anyways), or holding the outlet down below the pump. Anyways it prompted me to get a tee and a purge valve, i havnt used it yet but it was simple and only cost a few bucks, it should work like a charm i hope.
 
Since I have a ball valve directly after the pump, I hold the outlet hose up and run the pump. You'll hear the cavitation, then finally more and more water enters the head (while bubbles leave). As soon as I hear it "grab", I shut the valve and put the outlet hose disconnect on the receiving vessel. No burnt hands or liquid messes. The problem with the purge is that you have to catch the liquid somewhere and the outlet is really close to the pump so you have no warning that it's ready to blow.

I think there's a misconception that holding the outlet hose below the pump will somehow help, but priming a pump requires the trapped air to escape and when you have air and water mixed, the air wants to go UP not down.
 
Has anyone ever tried a squeeze bulb type siphon starter to vacuum prime a pump? Seems like it might work for those who have a hard time with priming on their setups.

Never tried it, it just popped into my head.
 
You know, as silly as it sounds, I never thought to even take a quick pull on the output line using my mouth. Sure, it's not safe when the input is boiling wort, but you can prime the pump head before you even start brewing.
 
Yes you can pull the liquid wiht your mouth to prime to the pump, haha i tried that too. HOlding the outlet house below the pump does work (well actually anywhere below the dip tube in the sending vessel. Essentially starting a siphon from the bottom of what you are pumping from. The problem i had was that i was expecting to open my valve before turning the pump on and have fill wiht liquid to prime, but that doesnt work. WHen i have all my hose connected ie.. hlt to inside mash tun and then open the hlt ball valve nothing flows into the tubing, bone dry, unless the outlet goes below the hlt to start the siphoning process. So I assume wiht the purge valve i should by able to open hlt and open purge and let gravity fill the pump collect a lil bit of liquid and then shut purge valve and the pump should be primed. That way you shouldnt have to turn the pump on and it shouldnt shoot in my face.

Ill get back with how well the purge valve works when i use it this weekend, as i have not used it yet but damn im fired up to brew after this conversation.
 
Another "duh" just came to mind. I have a rig that takes my garden hose down to a male quick disconnect, the same that I have on all vessels that I connect to the hoses to rinse out the pump, lines, and CFC. This is the most obvious and simple way to get water into the the pump head, just fill with hose water until it dumps into a bucket, reconnect to your vessels and let it rip.

Another thing I want to add to my setup is a couple of "U" hooks to the stand so that I can have them hold my hoses up when I don't have them connected to anything. Since the female disconnects I use are non sealing, I can't just dangle them on the floor or I'll drain the pump head.
 
Looking Great, Bobby!

I like those protective pipes you put on the thermo stems - Good idea.

What do you use for a hop filter on the bottom of the boil keg pick up tube?

(BTW, got the sight glass angles....thanks!!!)
 
No hop filter on the tube for now. I've been using multiple large nylon bags for my hop additions and they've worked out great. As you can see, I keep the tube off to the side and have tried to give the hot wort a bit of a whirlpool to at least accumilate some of the hot break into a center cone. It seems there isn't much trub in my fermenter at all so it must have worked some.
 
That thing looks good and has come a long way since I saw the bed frame segments. That one keg is rediculously shiney. Nice work :rockin:
 
As for the pump priming. If you have the "in" port of the pump on the bottom and the "out" on the top, would it not kind of self prime?

I have never used a pump so I don't know jack really. That and my 3 teir works great for me. But reading all of this it's really making me want to build a 1 teir and turn my barn/work shop into a brew house. :rockin:
 
You're absolutely right about the in/out orientation but it takes the pump running for a bit before it will actually work the cavitating air bubble out. It sounds more frustrating than it really is and once it's primed, the liquid flies!
 
Like Bobby said, it's really not that bad. I recently switched from a 3-tier to a single tier and it really is a nicer setup.

Man, I really need to brew again soon!
 
Nice Bobby! This is good info for those building 3 kettle systems right now or in the future. This also proves that you can brew without all the fancy automated stuff too. You can fly sparge by just keeping the water above the grain until you have collected the volume of runoff you targeted. Right now it is operated using the KISS principal. :) I am being forced to stop all the lifting I have to do when brewing and so shortly I will construct a framework like yours (single level). I know you enjoyed your first use of this system and it is so easy to work with too.
 

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