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Ok another related question, when my LHBS mills my grain he runs his drill high speed the whole time. I hear from others that it should be run at a lower rpm. For you guys that mill your own does speed matter? Other than having to sit there of course.
 
Ok another related question, when my LHBS mills my grain he runs his drill high speed the whole time. I hear from others that it should be run at a lower rpm. For you guys that mill your own does speed matter? Other than having to sit there of course.

Yes, the speed of the mill does matter. The faster speed will generally produce more fines and flour, but it's not usually a problem because you can compensate by adjusting the mill gap providing the mill is adjustable. IOW, it's the end product that counts, not the specific speed or gap setting. I like to mill at relatively low rpms as it generates much less dust. I'm a slow miller. Sometimes it takes me as much as fifteen minutes to mill the grain for a 12 gallon batch.
 
Thanks for the info everyone, it sucks but I may have to wait til xmas for it :( Maybe in the meantime I'll use a mill of one of the other local guys.
 
wow, This is amazing how this went from a simple question to a debate on bushings.
Allmost reminds me of a debate on if secondary your beer is a waist of time or not.


Have a beer. :mug:

Sorry to upset your apple cart. My BS meter was reading brown in regards to the comments about the use of bushings and the potential besmirching of a product using said items. Just wanted to stem the tide. Have your beer.:tank:
 
Actually, bushings are better than you think. I don't know of any water pumps in cars that have bearings. Well, some water pumps in the 30s did, but manufacturers switched to bushings. Many auto alternators and many electric motors rely on bushings.

Not trying to argue, but to say bushings are inferior is, well, unsubstantiated.

Your pipe must be overloaded with some wacky off brand of hops with those above statements on automobiles. Beyond belief is all I can say.
 
If you have any questions on Crankandstein, please send an email to Don. He builds them all by hand, for particular purposes. He will help you pick the right one. He also stands by his products 100%. I have seen him re groove the rollers on ones that were worn out by a commercial brewery for no charge! There was a short period when an ex salesperson started making inferior mills under the Crankandstein name. That is no longer a problem. And Don is out in his shop in the95 degree heat right now working on them! He will earn your business!
 
If you have any questions on Crankandstein, please send an email to Don.There was a short period when an ex salesperson started making inferior mills under the Crankandstein name.

Your above statement is why I elected to purchase a Monster Mill thinking better quality vs a Crakenstein mill, WRONG! A better mill for my $246 cash investment, NO! A rather large sum just for this Monster Mill YES!. Yeah I got a massive scared up side plates and bushings damaged lemon with the only way to reslove it was to get my money back no mill exchange ever offered this with a brand new still in box as delivered. Pictures were posted on this forum long ago after this MM purchase. I would of been without a mill not a replacement by Monster Mill was the reason why I went forward with rebuilding this Monster Mill so it can even be used at all, yes it was that bad vs just a cash refund that was offered. A replacement mill was never mentioned or offered after several emails just a cash back refund. Burnt once shy twice by anything from Fred at Monster Mill.
 
There was a short period when an ex salesperson started making inferior mills under the Crankandstein name. That is no longer a problem.

Are these the inferior mills that the ex sales person is making, but now under a different name?:

http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/index.html

If so, can you point out what's inferior about them? I was under the impression that the MM mills were of a somewhat superior design as for one thing the roller axels are integral with the roller and not screwed or pressed in. Otherwise they seem to be nearly identical in construction and features.
 
If i'm correct I was told MM and Crank were partners making a mill then went their seperate ways. Yes knurled rollers and shafts machined out of solid stock is far better than screw in or press fitted journals plus maintaining concentric rollers. What good are the roller journals if they are machined so fast and course they catch a finger nail like a record with these grooves? Just think what these steel journals are doing to the soft oilite bushings? Eating the bushings away at a faster rate than properly machined, polished then case hardened journals. Add to this case harden the knurling also for a longer mill life.
 
If i'm correct I was told MM and Crank were partners making a mill then went their seperate ways. Yes knurled rollers and shafts machined out of solid stock is far better than screw in or press fitted journals plus maintaining concentric rollers. What good are the roller journals if they are machined so fast and course they catch a finger nail like a record with these grooves? Just think what these steel journals are doing to the soft oilite bushings? Eating the bushings away at a faster rate than properly machined, polished then case hardened journals. Add to this case harden the knurling also for a longer mill life.

Also machining the shafts from solid stock might not always equal a better product, as the center of bar stock is actually softer than the outside due to when it is extruded and cooled. Meaning that when you machine away all the outer steel to make the shafts you are left with somewhat inferior steel at the center. I was told this by a guy during a coarse on metal failure. Although the guy did own and operate a forgery, but I don't think he was too bias;).

Also I would think that it would take more time and effort to press or screw journals into the rollers than just machining them out (plus machining would lead to more tool wear a scrap waste) so why would someone spend more time and effort to produce an "inferior" result? I don't think they would personally!
 
A fully automated turret lathe even a manual one for low production output would still be less labor machining journals vs the added steps of drilling, taping or a pressed pin design. I've never seen or heard of cold rolled or steel having a softer inner core your friend must be thinking about See's cream filled candies? There should be warning tags on cold rolled stock to not machine down more than 0.040" or risk going thru the depth of case harndening, then what a bitch it would be to machine thru case hardened stock, tool post grinder time. Oops this increases the mills cost by a vast amount.
 
A fully automated turret lathe even a manual one for low production output would still be less labor machining journals vs the added steps of drilling, taping or a pressed pin design.

That is what I am saying, if machining the journals produced a better product why would you bother to have them as a seprated part screwed or pressed in.

I've never seen or heard of cold rolled or steel having a softer inner core your friend must be thinking about See's cream filled candies? There should be warning tags on cold rolled stock to not machine down more than 0.040" or risk going thru the depth of case harndening, then what a bitch it would be to machine thru case hardened stock, tool post grinder time. Oops this increases the mills cost by a vast amount.

The grain structure is different comparing the outer shell to the inner core, see picture below, it is for inconel 718 as cast and bigger than the 1.5 - 2" for the grain mill rollers but I couldn't find anything better quickly. Cold rolling will do nothing to change the as cast grain structure apart from stretching it along the bar. Now I am not talking about being cautious turning down 1 mm but when you turn down from 2" to 1/2" (is that right?) you can't assume you still have the same machanical properties of the original bar stock.
ForbesJones-9901.fig.Ca.lg.gif


also sorry for the off topic
 
Cool photo of the grain structure difference.
Sad part MM and I bet Crank both have 1/2"
for the power drive journal but elected to use
only 3/8" for the other end of the drive roller as
well the second and third set of rollers. I would
rather have all journals at 1/2" plus installed double
lip sealed flanged ball bearings, again adding to production
costs and labor. These grain mill manufactures are after kicking
out mills with the minimum amount of labor, time and materials
bottom line a economic business profit thing. I must add home
brewers are rather crafty as well budget minded. Funny to see MM
now offers case hardened rollers besides stainless rollers this telling
you something about a upgraded mill?
Yup i'm always off topic with replies.
 
I think that unit is made in Australia. The list a selling price of $235 plus shipping and I bet the shipping would be substantial as heavy as that thing looks. That price also does not include the hopper or a crank handle, although I doubt many would hand crank it. Looks like it would require the installation of a close fitting plate to prevent grain from getting into the gear drive, but that shouldn't be too difficult to overcome. I do like the large diameter rollers and it appears to be built like a tank. I would consider buying one if I did not already have a satisfactory mill.

That mill is $435 US! (without hopper or etc.)

http://mashmaster.com.au/p/563201/millmaster-stainless-steel-grain-mill-.html

It's hard for me to imagine how much beer I'd have to brew (except that it would be over the legal 200 gal / year) to justify the expense of this mill. I'll stick with my $20 Corona-type mill, thanks.
 
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