CraftBeerPi - Raspberry Pi Software

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rkhanso said:
Odd, I connected a second temp probe and both are reading steady now.
Click to expand...
It could be an issue with the size of your pull-up resistor versus the length of your probe wires? I have not had this problem but read it can be an issue for longer diy probes.
 
rkhanso said:
One of my charts/sensors is looking odd. I'm wondering if this is a sign of a bad sensor, wiring or something else?
I'm not wiggling any of the wires - they are stationary. This used to be rock-solid steady in the past. Now sudden short swings of 4 degrees high, a couple degrees low. It's the only sensor currently connected to the Pi -- well, through a Teragady 4.2 board.

View attachment 608852
Click to expand...
Looks like data interference. It happent to me . But junps can be any 2^n values . 1024 , 256 or so. Any source of inerference near the wires? Pwm cables or motor variators are the worst.
 
Gents I finally figured out what was wrong with my system. When I downloaded and installed CBPi3, I activated version 3.0. I'm not sure why that makes a difference, but I reinstalled, activated the Master Branch instead, and even hysteresis is working now. I went ahead and downloaded simpleboillogic and once it reached the target temp, it automatically switched to the lower % I set. I searched so many forums, asked you guys and many others for help, but I didn't see anything about the version activations. I hope this might help someone that has the same issue as I did. Thanks for trying to help everyone. I appreciate it.
 
BeerGreek said:
Hey everyone, so I've tried so many things and still can't get the Pi to automate the heating elements. Today I did a fresh install on my Rpi and reinstalled CBPi3. I tried hysteresis, and it over shot the target temp by 4 degrees, before I turned it off. After that, I tried downloading PIDAutoTune and PIDBoil, but when I rebooted my Pi I got the errors below. I submitted a ticket on github, but no reply yet. Any advice?

View attachment 608049
Click to expand...
Revert back to the master branch of CBPi. Version 3.0 and 3.1 Alpha are broken and will give you the "_description" error.

As for cutting the + or the -, it's safer to cut the + side. Cutting either will work as you break the signal path, but if you break the - side, there is potential for the + to short through your body to ground and shock/electrocute you. Just like you cut the HOT wire for AC rather than the NEUTRAL or GROUND/EARTH.
 
When using PIDArduino the heater pulses on every 5 seconds even when the setpoint is set to 0. also it pulses off when the setpoint is above the actual. I have checked the voltage on the GPIO and it is pulsing (not just the green light on the panel). It seems to be related to PIDArduino as when in hysteresis mode it doesn't do it?? I tried to use PIDBoil (even though I think it still used the PIDArduini algorithm) unfortunately that just locks up the front panel after a few minutes, the indication before it looks up is that it is doing the same thing. any ideas??
 
Hi all. I've been reading a lot and have built a system, installed CBP3 and had the temp probes working. I shut the system down and finished my control box build. Turned everything back on and now my sensors are all reading 32 degrees and there is no address for the probes in the setting options. Has anyone seen this? Do I simply need to start the software process from scratch? Any help is appreciated.

SOLVED: Always triple check your wiring. I accidentally had two wires crossed on the pi. Thanks for the great info in this thread!
 
Last edited:
Reloaded software and am still having problems with the heater blinking on when no heat is called for (set point 0). I was wondering if you all are using stretch or is Jessie required to run Craftbeerpi3?
 
Is there any way to wire in a BCS Temperature Probe into the Raspberry Pi to have it work with the CraftBeer Pi software. I picked on up for free from a buddy and it has a TC connection, with my kettle has, and i am trying to use it (if i can). I have other DS1820s, but trying to save myself some work.

let me know if you have any questions, cheers!

Gimp
 
What release (3.0, 3.1_alpha and current master) of CBPi3 is everyone running and how is it working ?

Are there any CBPi developers hanging around on this thread ?
 
FYI, it doesn't appear that you can uninstall 3.1_alpha from within CraftBeerPi->System->System.

FYI, if you follow the instructions on the website, ie from here: http://web.craftbeerpi.com/installation/ it tells you to run

git clone https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi.git

This will give you the current Master version of CraftBeerPi3.

Here is how I uninstalled 3.1_alpha and installed 3.0.

1) ssh into your RPi or log in from a terminal.

2) cd to the directory that the current CBPi folder resides in.

3) rename the current folder to something else.

mv craftbeerpi oldcraftbeerpi

4) download craftbeerpi version 3.0. If you are installing 3.0 fresh, start with this step.

wget https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi3/archive/3.0.tar.gz

5) Extract it

tar xzf 3.0.tar.gz

6) Move into the new craftbeerpi directory

cd craftbeerpi3-3.0

7) Complete the installation

sudo ./install.sh

8) Start craftbrewpi. Go to System-> Addons and select all my addons.
For a simple system you can start with SimpleGPIO and OWFS.

9) Add the sensors. You may have to reboot to the OWFS temp sensors (ie DS18B20s) to appear in the drop down list.

10) Add the actors.

11) Add the kettles.

Enjoy.
 
Why do I receive these error messages ? These objects do not appear in my lists to select either.


CraftBeerPi error messages.png
 
brewman ! said:
A bit off topic, but can you run those cables right in the wort ? Like if you wanted the sensor 6" below the surface of a mash ?
Click to expand...
I have had them directly in the wort before (in a plastic bucket fermenter). But I recently made a cheap thermowell from a plastic racking cane that works great in my conical fermenter.

I'm referencing use in a fermenter, not during mashing or on brew day.
 
Last edited:
rkhanso said:
I have had them directly in the wort before. But I recently made a cheap thermowell from a plastic racking cane that works great.
Click to expand...

I just made some from 1/4" copper tubing.

20190215_142235.jpg


One is for the mash and the other is for the wort return to the mash. I am going to try using the cascading PID controller.
 
I got the last CBPi3 Master running again. I had to clear the database during the install using ./install.sh.

I have 2 oustanding issues:

- I cannot get rid of the extended menu that I installed to see what it would look like.
- sometimes the AddOn page doesn't display any plugins.

I think these two issues are related.
 
brewman ! said:
I just made some from 1/4" copper tubing.

View attachment 612859

One is for the mash and the other is for the wort return to the mash. I am going to try using the cascading PID controller.
Click to expand...
I think you'll be OK as long as you don't use those in the fermenter.
I've heard that copper in the fermenter is not something you want to use. Should be Stainless Steel or plastic in the fermenter.
Something about copper dissolving....I think.
 
Last edited:
JonDebrewman said:
Reloaded software and am still having problems with the heater blinking on when no heat is called for (set point 0). I was wondering if you all are using stretch or is Jessie required to run Craftbeerpi3?
Click to expand...

Am I right to assume when you say the heater blinking on, you're referring to the light on the SSR?
 
Hi all,

For some reason all my temperature readings freeze when the SSR for the heater is switched on.
Any idea what could be wrong here?

I'm using the Raspberry Pi 3 with the latest distro and DS18B20 sensors with a 4.7k pull-up.
I've re-done all connections multiple times, tried changing sensor, the SSR, the GPIO's used etc. but it still freezes.
I've also tried a lower-ohm pull-up resistor, putting a surge arrest on the SSR output side and changing the power supply for the raspberry pi.
There is a PWM board after the SSR to control the power to the heater.

The length of wire to the sensor is less than 1 meter, though the cable is unshielded.

Any ideas what to try next?
 
kraftbeer said:
Hi all,

For some reason all my temperature readings freeze when the SSR for the heater is switched on.
Any idea what could be wrong here?

I'm using the Raspberry Pi 3 with the latest distro and DS18B20 sensors with a 4.7k pull-up.
I've re-done all connections multiple times, tried changing sensor, the SSR, the GPIO's used etc. but it still freezes.
I've also tried a lower-ohm pull-up resistor, putting a surge arrest on the SSR output side and changing the power supply for the raspberry pi.
There is a PWM board after the SSR to control the power to the heater.

The length of wire to the sensor is less than 1 meter, though the cable is unshielded.

Any ideas what to try next?
Click to expand...

Do the power and ground wires for the ds18b20s connect directly to the rpi ?

If that doesn't solve it, I would change to shielded cable or at least twist the wires you have now.

My ds18b20s run fine in the presence of huge fields and emi from a 5 kw induction coil. I connected poweer and ground directly to the rpi and use shielded audio headphone cable with 1/8" stereo connects.
 
Yeah, the sensor is directly connected to the GPIO and draws its power from the GPIO.
I got three sensors and all have the same problem.
I guess I'll just try out some other pi and re-do the installation to see if there is any help.
If not, then I'll walk to the electronics store to get new sensors since these are bought off eBay and could be china-knockoffs. :)
 
kraftbeer said:
Yeah, the sensor is directly connected to the GPIO and draws its power from the GPIO.
I got three sensors and all have the same problem.
I guess I'll just try out some other pi and re-do the installation to see if there is any help.
If not, then I'll walk to the electronics store to get new sensors since these are bought off eBay and could be china-knockoffs. :)
Click to expand...

It isn't the sensors. If they are working when the element is off, there is an EMI problem. Do you have an oscilloscope ?
 
kraftbeer said:
Yeah, the sensor is directly connected to the GPIO and draws its power from the GPIO.
I got three sensors and all have the same problem.
I guess I'll just try out some other pi and re-do the installation to see if there is any help.
If not, then I'll walk to the electronics store to get new sensors since these are bought off eBay and could be china-knockoffs. :)
Click to expand...

Do you mean these are wired in parasitic mode? If so, wire them in normal mode - much more reliable (I'm not even sure if RPi can handle parasitic mode). The sensors should all be made by Dallas/Maxim, so I am not sure if there is such thing as a knock-off (wouldn't doubt it though).
 
Ethical sellers will list parasitic-mode sensors as DS18B20P, DS18B20PAR, DS18B20-PAR, etc, to give the buyer a clue.
There was a rash of folks who ended up with parasitic-mode sensors for use with BrewPi (unsupported) over the previous couple of years. I don't know if they missed the clue or the sellers didn't bother to provide one.

I don't know if there's a reliable ds18b20par driver for the RPi, although I don't know why. It's hardly mad science, just need to do some timing things and use a stronger pull-up...

Cheers!
 
The sensor is hooked up in normal-mode and shouldn't be a parasitic-mode type.

And no, unfortunately I don't own an oscilloscope nor have access to one. :(

But what I thought to try next is to hook up something else behind the SSR and then troubleshoot the mains wiring in the kettle. Shouldn't be rocket science, really since it is just a 2,3kW resistor and there is no overheating protection or anything. Of course, there might be a bad connector etc. that is giving out interference. Whether it is in the kettle or the control box, remains to be solved.
 
brewman ! said:
A bit off topic, but can you run those cables right in the wort ? Like if you wanted the sensor 6" below the surface of a mash ?
Click to expand...
Absolutely... BUT... Keep in mind that there is usually a length of heat-shrink tubing around the joint between cable and sensor housing, and you WILL get wort/beer/yeast/microbes inside the heatshrink - either pay extra extra attention to sanitizing, or remove the heatshrink, leaving you with a (still waterproof) cable going through a bead of silicone or whatever into the sensor, which greatly simplifies cleaning.

I use this type of probe in every mash, and suspended about 6" from the bottom in most fermenters. (plus three for my keezer - 6" from top, 4" from bottom, and outside)

I know for certain that I've transferred contamination from one batch to the next that used the same temp probe in fermenter at least once in the past.

j
 
newkirk said:
Absolutely... BUT... Keep in mind that there is usually a length of heat-shrink tubing around the joint between cable and sensor housing, and you WILL get wort/beer/yeast/microbes inside the heatshrink - either pay extra extra attention to sanitizing, or remove the heatshrink, leaving you with a (still waterproof) cable going through a bead of silicone or whatever into the sensor, which greatly simplifies cleaning.

I use this type of probe in every mash, and suspended about 6" from the bottom in most fermenters. (plus three for my keezer - 6" from top, 4" from bottom, and outside)

I know for certain that I've transferred contamination from one batch to the next that used the same temp probe in fermenter at least once in the past.

j
Click to expand...
I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your mobile probe.
 
Btaz said:
I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your mobile probe.
Click to expand...
Not sure what you mean by 'mobile' in this context. Had this sitting 2 feet away as I read your post, most recent assembly. I have two each of 3, 5, and 7 gallon glass carboys. The cable is a bit loose through the smaller hole in standard rubber carboy caps, so I apply two layers of heatshrink to make a stopper of sorts, at a position on the cord where the probe hangs a few inches from the bottom of a 3 gallon carboy, which will be about 3 gallon level in a 5 gallon. (7gal are different cap) If krausen reaches the cap I pay close attention to sanitizing or replacing that heatshrink. And in the pic I've not yet removed the factory heatshrink where the wire enters the probe housing.

Disclaimer - I'm not using BrewPi or anything, built this a few years ago myself so I may do things differently... I cut one of the two identical ends off a Y-cable (been using old computer fan splitters, seen here, but any 3 conductor splitters would work - they just happen to be cheap and on hand) and solder probe wires to it and heatshrink the splice.

Each carboy gets a temp cap, ambient temp probe in my ferm closet is connected to RPi GPIO, plus resistor and a cut off end from one of the splitters, and each carboy's Y-cable end stacks on the previous ones. I've had as many as seven going at once. (five carboys plus near floor ambient and ceiling near AC vent)

j
IMG_20190223_010342.jpeg
 
I redid everything. Cabling, connectors, etc. Now it works without hiccups so far.

Probably some interference from a poor mains connection.
 
I've got an interesting issue: I set up tje CraftbeerPi software in my living room and everything worked fine. I had brew steps with hop additions, the buzzer would go off when it was time to throw in the hops or when a brew step had finishee. Everything was great.
Then, I took it out to the garage and hooked it all up to my kettles and the timer no longer works. If I create a boil step with hop additions, then click the start button, the Tomer shows 00:00:00 and doesn't do anything. If I click on reset step, the timer doesn't change.

Why did this stop working and what can I do to fix it? It kinda sucks that something so valuable isn't working.

Thanks!
 
Is anyone here using 3 way(on,off,auto) switches for their pumps in their craftbeerpi panel? I built my panel using the Electric Brewing Supply book which originally was designed to use a BCS-460/462. My build got delayed and by the time I got started again the BCS had been discontinued so I used a Pi in it's place. I've managed to get everything working with craftbeerpi 3.0 except the auto setting of my 3 way switches for my pumps. The pump relays activate fine when the switches are set to "on" but do nothing when set to auto and activated in craftbeerpi. I've tried hooking the switches up the way they are shown for the BCS and several variations but nothing has worked so far. Here's a picture of the build. Maybe someone out there has some ideas. The blue and yellow wires laying on the cbpi board are the ones I'm trying to figure out. They come from the bottom right of the 3 way switches on the door.
LowVoltage1.jpg
 
Lalo_uy said:
What voltage are your Relays? They switch to ground?
Her is an schematic of how could be done.
full
Click to expand...

The relays are 12 volt and the relay board has a jumper so it can be set either active high or low. I read 6.6 volts between the red power wire and the other pole on the on/off side of the switch when set to "off" for some reason and it drops to 0v when the switch is turned on which triggers the relay. The craftbeerpi extension board SSR outputs are 12 volt so I've assumed I need to use those. Here's a diagram of how the switches are wired based on the Electric Brewing Supply drawings. The original EBS drawing showed the red power wire coming off a 5v output on the BCS for some reason but the newer drawings have it coming directly off the 12v power supply (the relays were 12v in both cases) which is what I did.
PumpSwitch1.jpg
 

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