rkhanso
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Odd, I connected a second temp probe and both are reading steady now.
It could be an issue with the size of your pull-up resistor versus the length of your probe wires? I have not had this problem but read it can be an issue for longer diy probes.Odd, I connected a second temp probe and both are reading steady now.
Looks like data interference. It happent to me . But junps can be any 2^n values . 1024 , 256 or so. Any source of inerference near the wires? Pwm cables or motor variators are the worst.One of my charts/sensors is looking odd. I'm wondering if this is a sign of a bad sensor, wiring or something else?
I'm not wiggling any of the wires - they are stationary. This used to be rock-solid steady in the past. Now sudden short swings of 4 degrees high, a couple degrees low. It's the only sensor currently connected to the Pi -- well, through a Teragady 4.2 board.
View attachment 608852
Revert back to the master branch of CBPi. Version 3.0 and 3.1 Alpha are broken and will give you the "_description" error.Hey everyone, so I've tried so many things and still can't get the Pi to automate the heating elements. Today I did a fresh install on my Rpi and reinstalled CBPi3. I tried hysteresis, and it over shot the target temp by 4 degrees, before I turned it off. After that, I tried downloading PIDAutoTune and PIDBoil, but when I rebooted my Pi I got the errors below. I submitted a ticket on github, but no reply yet. Any advice?
View attachment 608049
Cutting either will work as you break the signal path, but if you break the - side, there is potential for the + to short through your body to ground and shock/electrocute you.
I'm using 3.0. it's been a while since installing cbpi, but I think there were problems using 3.1 alpha version.What release (3.0, 3.1_alpha and current master) of CBPi3 is everyone running and how is it working ?
Are there any CBPi developers hanging around on this thread ?
I’ve had good luck using these for brewing and reef keeping.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU70ZL8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I have had them directly in the wort before (in a plastic bucket fermenter). But I recently made a cheap thermowell from a plastic racking cane that works great in my conical fermenter.A bit off topic, but can you run those cables right in the wort ? Like if you wanted the sensor 6" below the surface of a mash ?
I have had them directly in the wort before. But I recently made a cheap thermowell from a plastic racking cane that works great.
Revert back to the master branch of CBPi. Version 3.0 and 3.1 Alpha are broken and will give you the "_description" error.
I think you'll be OK as long as you don't use those in the fermenter.I just made some from 1/4" copper tubing.
View attachment 612859
One is for the mash and the other is for the wort return to the mash. I am going to try using the cascading PID controller.
Reloaded software and am still having problems with the heater blinking on when no heat is called for (set point 0). I was wondering if you all are using stretch or is Jessie required to run Craftbeerpi3?
Hi all,
For some reason all my temperature readings freeze when the SSR for the heater is switched on.
Any idea what could be wrong here?
I'm using the Raspberry Pi 3 with the latest distro and DS18B20 sensors with a 4.7k pull-up.
I've re-done all connections multiple times, tried changing sensor, the SSR, the GPIO's used etc. but it still freezes.
I've also tried a lower-ohm pull-up resistor, putting a surge arrest on the SSR output side and changing the power supply for the raspberry pi.
There is a PWM board after the SSR to control the power to the heater.
The length of wire to the sensor is less than 1 meter, though the cable is unshielded.
Any ideas what to try next?
Yeah, the sensor is directly connected to the GPIO and draws its power from the GPIO.
I got three sensors and all have the same problem.
I guess I'll just try out some other pi and re-do the installation to see if there is any help.
If not, then I'll walk to the electronics store to get new sensors since these are bought off eBay and could be china-knockoffs.
Yeah, the sensor is directly connected to the GPIO and draws its power from the GPIO.
I got three sensors and all have the same problem.
I guess I'll just try out some other pi and re-do the installation to see if there is any help.
If not, then I'll walk to the electronics store to get new sensors since these are bought off eBay and could be china-knockoffs.
Absolutely... BUT... Keep in mind that there is usually a length of heat-shrink tubing around the joint between cable and sensor housing, and you WILL get wort/beer/yeast/microbes inside the heatshrink - either pay extra extra attention to sanitizing, or remove the heatshrink, leaving you with a (still waterproof) cable going through a bead of silicone or whatever into the sensor, which greatly simplifies cleaning.A bit off topic, but can you run those cables right in the wort ? Like if you wanted the sensor 6" below the surface of a mash ?
I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your mobile probe.Absolutely... BUT... Keep in mind that there is usually a length of heat-shrink tubing around the joint between cable and sensor housing, and you WILL get wort/beer/yeast/microbes inside the heatshrink - either pay extra extra attention to sanitizing, or remove the heatshrink, leaving you with a (still waterproof) cable going through a bead of silicone or whatever into the sensor, which greatly simplifies cleaning.
I use this type of probe in every mash, and suspended about 6" from the bottom in most fermenters. (plus three for my keezer - 6" from top, 4" from bottom, and outside)
I know for certain that I've transferred contamination from one batch to the next that used the same temp probe in fermenter at least once in the past.
j
Not sure what you mean by 'mobile' in this context. Had this sitting 2 feet away as I read your post, most recent assembly. I have two each of 3, 5, and 7 gallon glass carboys. The cable is a bit loose through the smaller hole in standard rubber carboy caps, so I apply two layers of heatshrink to make a stopper of sorts, at a position on the cord where the probe hangs a few inches from the bottom of a 3 gallon carboy, which will be about 3 gallon level in a 5 gallon. (7gal are different cap) If krausen reaches the cap I pay close attention to sanitizing or replacing that heatshrink. And in the pic I've not yet removed the factory heatshrink where the wire enters the probe housing.I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your mobile probe.
What voltage are your Relays? They switch to ground?
Her is an schematic of how could be done.
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