Coupler welding

[lehr]

So the inside does not get back welded and ground like this then http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/KegglesForClubMembers#5194106467776001890.

No need to if it's back gassed it's already smooth.

 

[Dog House Brew]

I checked my tungsten and it is 3/32. Good all around size I would think, but I would like to get a smaller tungsten for doing keggle welding. I'm no pro for sure. The 3/32 was perfect for my boil kettle that is made from 3/16" stainless.

 

[lehr]

Most of these welds are fuse welded with no rod I turn the couplings down so they are round (most are off shore and way out of round) and make them fit real tite so I have to knock them in with a leather hammer.

Pat

 

[BrewBeemer]

My thinking to face off the coupling end removing the external radius then machining a reduced step to the thickness of the keg with a snug fit.
My Synchrowave's limits are 3 to 385 amps output.

 

[lehr]

My thinking to face off the coupling end removing the external radius then machining a reduced step to the thickness of the keg with a snug fit.
My Synchrowave's limits are 3 to 385 amps output.

That would work sweet miller man !

 

[kladue]

Have you tried pulse at 100% / 70% current, it makes it easier on the inside when back welding the couplings.

 

[macdadmorgan]

I dont think I have ever welded anything that thick with my tig but aluminum.
I do think you could weld a keg with 1/8th inch once you got your amps right.

Pat

Yeah, definitely could, but I don't have my hand in it enough to go with anything but the 3/32", that's what I am used to. What pressure do you use when back gassing?

 

[BrewBeemer]

This may help besides the different tungstens used as well the proper sizes.
Fun is welding with 0.020" or 0.040" not alone a stray torch bump breaking the damn tip. Next in line is under and over amping your tungstens, third is contacting the tungsten with filler rod plus accidently dipping into the puddle.
Destroyer of tungstens yup been there. The Power of Blue.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/tech_tips/TIG_tips/troubleshooting.html

 

[Berniep]

Have you tried pulse at 100% / 70% current, it makes it easier on the inside when back welding the couplings.

What pulse rate?
I welded some 304 tube and a half coupling into a keg (all back gassed) and ended up with about a 100/40 percent pulse at a fairly low rate to keep from overheating the stainless. I didn't get complete penetration so it would have some crevasses in the joint that would be bad for fermenting in but not for the boiling this was for. I will have to try a smaller tungsten to see if that will help.

 

[lehr]

Yeah, definitely could, but I don't have my hand in it enough to go with anything but the 3/32", that's what I am used to. What pressure do you use when back gassing?

It is about 3-5 lbs let it run for a bit so the o2 escapes and then you can turn it down to 2 lbs.

On the pulse question I dont have pulse on my welder.

Pat

 

[macdadmorgan]

Thanks Pat. Now I have to scrounge up another bottle, wish the mig wasn't argon/o2.

 

[RonRock]

You can also put in a Y at the regulator. Use a Y with valves so you can adjust flown and easily turn off the Backgas side when not needed.

 

[lehr]

You can also put in a Y at the regulator. Use a Y with valves so you can adjust flown and easily turn off the Backgas side when not needed.

I'm sure you could but I just have an extra tank, depending on how far your work is from your welder you might need a pretty long hose though.

Pat

 

[Berniep]

You can also put in a Y at the regulator. Use a Y with valves so you can adjust flown and easily turn off the Backgas side when not needed.

I got a "T" for before the flow-meter from my local welding shop and bought a cheap flow-meter off eBay. Total about 40 bucks. I was afraid of not being able to control the flow ell enough if I only used a Y after the flow-meter.

 

[RonRock]

I got a "T" for before the flow-meter from my local welding shop and bought a cheap flow-meter off eBay. Total about 40 bucks. I was afraid of not being able to control the flow ell enough if I only used a Y after the flow-meter.

That is even better. I was going on the cheap.

Hi Pat. Yours is the best solution of course. My idea is the down and dirty way to get the job done. My hose is plenty long. As far as I'm concerned.

 

[lehr]

That is even better. I was going on the cheap.

Hi Pat. Yours is the best solution of course. My idea is the down and dirty way to get the job done. My hose is plenty long. As far as I'm concerned.

Ya I heard you guy"s from Iowa where built that way !

 

[RonRock]

A legend in my own mind. Just ask my wife.

Sorry OT.

 

[GreenMonti]

Thanks Pat. Now I have to scrounge up another bottle, wish the mig wasn't argon/o2.

You should be fine using that gas for the purge. Just don't run it on the torch side. The idea is to keep the O2 out.

 

[Dog House Brew]

You can also put in a Y at the regulator. Use a Y with valves so you can adjust flown and easily turn off the Backgas side when not needed.

I bought a y that had shutoffs on each side. I think the use them to run multiple torch hoses from one tank. I put it after the flow meter and ran some of the cheap clear tubing from the hardware store for purging. The y was $35. Works for me, but not the expienced pros like here. Never ran anything other than just argon. It only takes one time of paying someone to "sugar" you up to learn to do it yourself.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Ya I heard you guy"s from Iowa where built that way !

I'm German so "it's" Metric ha ha!

I was given a couple extra Miller orifice meters with my 251 purchase, Victor ball flow meters are on the Tig and Mig machines. These orifice meters suck JMO but handy if you Y'ed after the regulator before the flow meter for your back gassing requirements. This way to prevent torch gas flow variations turning the back gassing on and off. Before this i've back gassed off the 260 Mig C25 bottle.