Countertop Brutus 20

[Bonwit]

Just wanted to take a moment to say thanks again for coming up with such a great system. I've done' about a half dozen brews so far and just finished brewing a Milk Stout today. Everything went great!

Thanks Man!

 

[Bonwit]

Also jkarp, thanks for the recipe. I think all us CB-20 fans would appreciate seeing more of your favorite recipes with instructions tailored for this setup.

Much appreciated!

 

[jkarp]

Glad it's working for ya Bonwit!

 

[Rivenin]

how much can you boil easily with the 2000w element? like a 4 gallon boil to reach around 3ish gallons? which would be perfect.

 

[DustBow]

that's pretty much exactly what this system does

 

[jkarp]

2KW will get 5-6 gal to a good rolling boil, especially if the pot is insulated.

 

[Rivenin]

Just what i was looking for, thank you sir!

 

[fumanbrew]

I'm sorry if this has been asked but I couldnt read through the whole thread, if I wanted to bring this up to 5 gallon batches and use a 4500 watt 240 volt would the parts for the controller box be the same except I would need a 240 volt plug? I cant believe I may tackle this, i have never worked with electricity in my life.

 

[DustBow]

You need 240v plugs, outlets, wiring. And you need to upgrade the "on/off" switch to a DPST switch or contactor.
Upgrade the heatsink and SSR as well.

 

[fumanbrew]

What if I use the setup as is but put an additional heat stick in to bring to a boil after recirculation? Will one stick get 8 gallons of water to 170 degrees?

 

[DustBow]

so TWO 120v elements in total? yes, that would work

 

[fumanbrew]

But not all the time. One hooked up to the system and the other seperately plugged in just to bring to a boil.

 

[ACC84]

Just wanted to post a huge "Thank you" to jkarp! I did a build very similar to your OP. I just don't have a pump, so I lift the MT up to a higher shelf. The Reflectix is a great call for insulating the kettle.

 

[Jeebas]

jkarp - awesome system! What do you do for packaging for your 3g of fermented beer? Bottle? Keg? I really like this setup, but I already have about seven 5-gallon corneys

 

[jlb307]

fantastic setup! definitely what i'm going to work towards.
since i'd rather not modify my current equipment, i figured i'd start with a fresh kettle.
would something like this work?
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/backyard-pro-30-quart-aluminum-stock-pot-turkey-fry-pot-with-lid-and-accessories/554BP30AL.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=554BP30AL&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CNf7s-fz0rcCFUyY4AodoEsAtg
not sure if it's the right dimensions, and since i'm planning on small batches like jkarp, don't know if 30 quarts is too much.

 

[jkarp]

30 quart is just about perfect, and the geometry of turkey fryer pots is ideal for electric brewing - less heat loss.

 

[jlb307]

i found a 24-qt stock pot that's 12-1/4" wide by 12-1/2" high.
the turkey fryer is 12-1/2" wide by 15-1/2" high, but it's 30 quarts.
would a 1/4" make that much of a difference with the heat loss?
they're both about the same price, too, so i'm having a hard time picking one.

 

[carlk47]

What's the general consensus on aluminum vs stainless steel for the brew kettle with this particular setup? I'm looking at 30-32qt turkey fryer kettles and can't decide.. Aluminum would be cheaper and easier to drill but stainless would be easier to clean.. Suggestions?

Great design here!

 

[mrshaund]

So I just came across this thread and I have all the stuff for 5 gallon batch but after seeing this it makes the transition to electric brewing fairly easy. From what I have read I could use 2 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 One plugged into the PID and one into another outlet for it to work.

 

[MaltyHops]

So I just came across this thread and I have all the stuff for 5 gallon batch but after seeing this it makes the transition to electric brewing fairly easy. From what I have read I could use 2 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Might it be worth thinking about low density elements instead? HBT search "low watt density". That amazon link you pointed to is high density.

Here is one link from the various threads on this: PlumbingSupply.com

One plugged into the PID and one into another outlet for it to work.

You would need to make sure the outlets are off different circuits coming out of your power distribution box (if two elements - plus whatever else running - will exceed the rating of the circuit plugged into).

 

[mrshaund]

Might it be worth thinking about low density elements instead? HBT search "low watt density". That amazon link you pointed to is high density.

Here is one link from the various threads on this: PlumbingSupply.com


You would need to make sure the outlets are off different circuits coming out of your power distribution box (if two elements - plus whatever else running - will exceed the rating of the circuit plugged into).

Yeah I am deciding to just go single and do 3-4 gallon batches so I can brew more frequently as for the high density most post I have seen they use the High density with no issues

 

[carlk47]

Has anyone considered installing the RTD probe like this? Would it take a proper reading of the strike water temp prior to recirculating?

http://www.auberins.com/images/PT100-L4012NPTfit.jpg

I like the idea of the probe off to the side of the the T fitting and and valve on the front.. Just a thought

 

[Jeebas]

I plan on doing that with my build, going bulkhead -|wall|-> valve -> nipple -> T fitting -> camlock F (front of T) probe (side of T). Kinda like how its done on http://theeelectricbrewery.com/

 

[mrshaund]

Pulled the trigger and put in my bargain fittings order, out of curiosity what RTD is everyone using.

 

[Rivenin]

Rsd??

 

[Jeebas]

I think he meant RTD.

I plan on using this one - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=249 with the deluxe cable - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=269 based on things I have read throughout this site

 

[mrshaund]

yeah RTD lol

 

[carlk47]

I'm going to start building this system over the next few months. Planning to build it one chunk at a time.. Already have a 5 gal mash tun with valve/braid and will be ordering all of the components this weekend to build the electric brew kettle portion of this design.

Can't wait to get this all put together and join all you electric brewers out there!

One question on the mash tun.. How effective is the NorCal false bottom vs a normal braided hose? My braid isn't that old and is in great shape, just not sure if its worth upgrading to the FB sooner rather than later?

 

[carlk47]

I think he meant RTD.

I plan on using this one - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=249 with the deluxe cable - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=269 based on things I have read throughout this site

I second this.. Really like the idea of having the probe off to the side rather than sticking out the front. It should read the temps just fine as long as the water is flowing and recirculating. May have to recirculate a bit while heating the strike water to get a proper reading but time will tell when I actually get that portion built!

 

[cheapsk8]

Just wanted to post a pic of my cb20 that I built over 2 years ago and still working like a charm. Only thing i changed was the mash tun strainer to a bazooka strainer.

Thanks again jkarp your the kind of people this world needs.