Countertop Brutus 20

[broadbill]

1650 watts will not boil 5 gallons of wort in a timely manner. I am using a 3000 watt 120v element and can boil 6.5 gallons. My ramp speed is a fraction less than 3 degrees/min.

Nealm


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

Is that on a 20A circuit?

 

[broadbill]

I'm wading into a build and wondering if I should stick with the 3/8"OD sizing after the pump (JKarp's orginal build). My current pump and CFC setup is plumbed with 5/8" OD stuff and my plan is to build it so it could be used with either my CB20 or my larger rig (Keggle/ghetto cooler style setup). Keeping it 5/8" would be easier/cheaper, but I'm willing to make the switch to 3/8" if there is an advantage. My CFC coil is 3/8" FYI.

thoughts?

Also, anybody have the source of the black rubber insulation in some of the builds...I like the look of that more than reflectix.

Thanks!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Also, anybody have the source of the black rubber insulation in some of the builds...I like the look of that more than reflectix.

Thanks!

Ya' mean like the stuff used in wetsuits?

Here's one source of it..........Read through until you see "neoprene sheets"

http://www.mcmaster.com/#neoprene-foam/=vdrpr8

Taint cheap!

 

[MaltyHops]

... Keeping it 5/8" would be easier/cheaper, but I'm willing to make the switch to 3/8" if there is an advantage.

I think as long as you have a way to throttle the flow from the pump outlet (eg. ball valve) it wouldn't matter.

 

[nealm]

Is that on a 20A circuit?

No, I found a 30A GFCI breaker on eBay for a respectable price.

Nealm

 

[broadbill]

Thanks for the replies!

Another question on something I'm mulling over. I mentioned building the system so parts could be used between my future CB20 and my full size setup. Should I consider a 10 gallon cooler MT for the CB20 that can also be used in the 10 gallon setup?

A 10 gallon MT for the CB20 might not be worth the hassle as there are batch size and gravity limits with the system.

 

[nealm]

Is that on a 20A circuit?

No, I found a 30A GFCI breaker on eBay for a respectable price.

Nealm

 

[nealm]

No

 

[ejluttmann]

Also, anybody have the source of the black rubber insulation in some of the builds...I like the look of that more than reflectix.

Thanks!

Bought my neoprene from http://www.thefoamfactory.com

 

[jkarp]

Wow.

So many awesome CB20 builds, so many clever innovations! You guys are awesome.

I still brew fairly regularly on mine, but life is taking me in a new direction as I work towards opening a craft distillery this year.

Keep on brewing!

 

[DrinknBuddy]

Good luck with the career change. I'd drink all the profits I went back to BIAB and used my Countertop Brutus knowledge to build this. I did a Boddington this last weekend and got 84% efficiency.

 

[broadbill]

Good luck with the career change. I'd drink all the profits I went back to BIAB and used my Countertop Brutus knowledge to build this. I did a Boddington this last weekend and got 84% efficiency.

Interesting setup! Any reason why you went with the BIAB approach? Just easier?

 

[DrinknBuddy]

Interesting setup! Any reason why you went with the BIAB approach? Just easier?

Wanted a even more compact unit. Takes up less space (no mash container). I can also keep the mash on temp then mash out with just setting the temp I want to mash out at. I usually brew 2 batches back to back. I've been tinkering with a 45min mash and a 45min boil time.

 

[Derek1985]

Anyone know the best place to get a march pump at a decent price?

 

[fgottman]

I just got mine on Amazon a few weeks ago for 160 or so. I think most places sell it for around the same price

 

[Derek1985]

I just got mine on Amazon a few weeks ago for 160 or so. I think most places sell it for around the same price

I've found cheaper pumps with similar specs but I'm coming to realize the price is probably due to the temperature rating.

Looks like this will be the last element of the setup that I purchase

 

[ejluttmann]

I and other Brewers I know use Chugger pumps and we have all had great luck with them.

 

[Derek1985]

I've yet to find a cheaper pump that has the temperature specifications that it would require. Ultimately I was hoping for that a smaller pump for my scaled down version would be available but they are only rated for 190F

 

[fanzy4]

Hi,
Here's a French version of the Brutus 20... The pot and the cooler have a capacity of 18-20 liters (~5 gallons), just enough for batches of 10 or 13 liters.
For chilling I use a classical wort chiller + the pump to create a small whirlpool (I have a 90deg elbow + a small piece of silicon tube inside the kettle).
I've brewed 3 times with it (an Irish red ale, a saison, and an oatmeal stout) and I really start to appreciate the simplicity of the process.
My efficiency is not fantastic, between 62 and 66%. I'm suspecting maybe my copper manifold is leaving a little bit too much of good wort at the bottom of the cooler...
Thanks to jkarp for all the good ideas !


My Brutus 20... by Francois Cau, sur Flickr

 

[aamcle]

I had a B20 using the original stainless mesh tube, I can't remember exactly the efficiency but it was more than your getting.

You can always save some water drain the MT close its valve and gently add the water you saved. Give it ten mins and drain it into the boiler that should get you into the 70s.

Atb. Aamcle

 

[fanzy4]

Just to make sure, here's how I proceed for a 13l batch:
- Heat ~19l at 78C (173F)
- Transfer 12l to the MLT (after pre-heating), add grain => should be at 67C (153F).
- Heat the rest of water (7liters) at 173F
- After 50min, I pour 2 liters of wort and put it back (manualy) to the MLT, just to make sure the wort is clear.
- I then start to recirculate until the MLT reaches 75C (168F). It usually takes ~20 minutes. I then let it circulate 10 more minutes.

In this page, this guy seem to get ~75% efficiency by mashing with the whole water quantity (in my case that would be ~19l) and then heating 5l of the first wort before recirculating. Seems interesting...

 

[karch1967]

JKarp thanks for the inspiration - Built a 10 gallon version of the system inspired by this thread and brewed my first batch on it last night. Used a BrewHardware HotRod and a PID controller for heating everything but the boil and supplemented it with a burner for the boil. First batch efficiency seemed a little low at 61%, maybe because I was using 17% flaked oats?

 

[Dropabeet]

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum and I'm in the process of building a Countertop Brutus 20 that can support 5 gallon batches. Here's my predicament: I only have access to 120V power. I do have access to a new gas stove that I will boil and heat water on which justifies the 5 gallon batch sizes. I'll utilize the element to support recirculating mash temps.

I'm brewing with a 10 gallon kettle and 10 gallon MLT.

I want to future-proof my build so that I can easily convert to 240V when I'm at a new place. I'm think about using one 5500W element (at 1/4 power) running it at 120V now and building my control panel equipped to handle the switch to 240V in the future.

My question is, what do I need to change from jkarp's original build in order to run it at 120V while building all components so that it's easy to switch to 240v? I've searched a ton of these threads and haven't found a solution yet, maybe I'm missing something obvious?

Another dumb question, if I built a 240V control panel could one easily run it at 120V?

Appreciate your help!

 

[nealm]

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum and I'm in the process of building a Countertop Brutus 20 that can support 5 gallon batches. Here's my predicament: I only have access to 120V power. I do have access to a new gas stove that I will boil and heat water on which justifies the 5 gallon batch sizes. I'll utilize the element to support recirculating mash temps.

I'm brewing with a 10 gallon kettle and 10 gallon MLT.

I want to future-proof my build so that I can easily convert to 240V when I'm at a new place. I'm think about using one 5500W element (at 1/4 power) running it at 120V now and building my control panel equipped to handle the switch to 240V in the future.

My question is, what do I need to change from jkarp's original build in order to run it at 120V while building all components so that it's easy to switch to 240v? I've searched a ton of these threads and haven't found a solution yet, maybe I'm missing something obvious?

Another dumb question, if I built a 240V control panel could one easily run it at 120V?

Appreciate your help!

My 5 gallon "countertop" Brutus 20 is a 120v based unit comprised of a 10 gallon cooler and a 10 gallon kettle with a 3000W water heater element. I was fortunately able to score a used 30A GF breaker for my panel for $30 on fleabay. I can tell you it works like a charm. I get between 70 to 75 percent efficiency with a Corona Mill. Pumping is with the small 24V DC pumps from china. Cooling with a homebuilt copper immersion cooler.

If I wanted to switch from 120 to 240 I would of course change the element in the kettle and I would have to re-wire the control panel for 240V since virtually all the components I need are already there. I have no reason to make the shift at my present location.

My early days brewing was done on the family stove until SWMBO kicked me off because the heat and the kettle weight caused the burner grates to bend enough so that her smaller pot would not level.

 

[Dropabeet]

Nealm,

Thanks for the response. How long does it take you boil? Do you run your pump off of your control panel or is it manually controlled off of a separate circuit?

You run a 30A breaker (Man those aren't cheap!) from your 20A plug? Sorry for my inexperience but what does this do for your setup? (I'm thinking that you don't have a GFCI 120V plug?)

Fortunately, our stove has heavy duty cast iron grates that will hold an elephant.

 

[nealm]

Nealm,

Thanks for the response. How long does it take you boil? Do you run your pump off of your control panel or is it manually controlled off of a separate circuit?

You run a 30A breaker (Man those aren't cheap!) from your 20A plug? Sorry for my inexperience but what does this do for your setup? (I'm thinking that you don't have a GFCI 120V plug?)

Fortunately, our stove has heavy duty cast iron grates that will hold an elephant.

My rate of heating is about 3 degrees per minute, so it takes about 15-20 min to get from the mashout temp of 170 to boil. No I have a separate control box for my pump.
No the 120V 30A GFCI breakers are NOT cheap, but you remember I got one used at a bargain. No plugs involved, breakers go right in my main electric panel. (father was an electrician and he taught me well)

RE: stove: that's what I thought, top of the line stove with big grates, NOT. YMMV

 

[Jayhawk79]

I realize that I am replying to an old thread, but this seems to be the best resource for info regard CB20 builds. I built a system identical to JKarp's several years ago. After a brief hiatus I setup my equipment again and during testing discovered a leak in my CFC (liquid crossing from wort side to coolant side) which is likely due to my poor craftsmanship (homemade unit). I'm looking at 2 options moving forward.

1. Repair the existing, or purchase a new CFC
2. Convert to a whirlpool immersion chiller setup

I like the idea of the whirlpool IC as I already whirlpool with the current setup; and I have seen others mentioning that they used an IC in their CB20 builds. I'm struggling with how to implement an IC with the heating element protruding into the boil kettle. Do I set the IC into the kettle, work the element between the coils and leave in place (a la HERMS) during the entire operation? Do I use a hook to latch the IC to the lip of the kettle top, so as to suspend the IC above the heating element in the kettle? Do others just let the IC rest atop the heating element?

For those implementing the CFC; is there a reason to flow back to the kettle? It seems a bit odd to cool a small portion of wort in the CFC then send it back to a much larger volume of wort. Any CFC users chill in a single pass format directly into the fermenter?

 

[HarkinBanks]

I realize that I am replying to an old thread, but this seems to be the best resource for info regard CB20 builds. I built a system identical to JKarp's several years ago. After a brief hiatus I setup my equipment again and during testing discovered a leak in my CFC (liquid crossing from wort side to coolant side) which is likely due to my poor craftsmanship (homemade unit). I'm looking at 2 options moving forward.

1. Repair the existing, or purchase a new CFC
2. Convert to a whirlpool immersion chiller setup

I like the idea of the whirlpool IC as I already whirlpool with the current setup; and I have seen others mentioning that they used an IC in their CB20 builds. I'm struggling with how to implement an IC with the heating element protruding into the boil kettle. Do I set the IC into the kettle, work the element between the coils and leave in place (a la HERMS) during the entire operation? Do I use a hook to latch the IC to the lip of the kettle top, so as to suspend the IC above the heating element in the kettle? Do others just let the IC rest atop the heating element?

For those implementing the CFC; is there a reason to flow back to the kettle? It seems a bit odd to cool a small portion of wort in the CFC then send it back to a much larger volume of wort. Any CFC users chill in a single pass format directly into the fermenter?

I went all around on my chilling options (plate, hose/copper CFC, Chillzilla, IC) with my CB20 and ended up going with a good old immersion chiller. I would suggest you consider the same. They are just easier and more sanitary in my opinion. Once you cut the power you can drop in the IC without issue. Measure your depth and check out Jaded Brewing. Those chill really fast.

https://jadedbrewing.com/collections/frontpage/products/mantis

 

[Jayhawk79]

I went all around on my chilling options (plate, hose/copper CFC, Chillzilla, IC) with my CB20 and ended up going with a good old immersion chiller. I would suggest you consider the same. They are just easier and more sanitary in my opinion. Once you cut the power you can drop in the IC without issue. Measure your depth and check out Jaded Brewing. Those chill really fast.

https://jadedbrewing.com/collections/frontpage/products/mantis

HB, glad to hear the IC works well with the system. Just to be clear, you simply set the IC in the boil kettle on top of the element after you kill the power? No issue with weight on the element, or loss of efficiency from the IC not reaching the bottom? I'll certainly check out Jaded. Thanks for the input!

 

[HarkinBanks]

HB, glad to hear the IC works well with the system. Just to be clear, you simply set the IC in the boil kettle on top of the element after you kill the power? No issue with weight on the element, or loss of efficiency from the IC not reaching the bottom? I'll certainly check out Jaded. Thanks for the input!

No issues with laying the IC on the element(s) for me - I drilled my elements as low as I could in my pot. I used a 25' cheapo copper IC and it chilled with typical times for a 25' unit. The Jaded ones are much lower profile and will likely work a lot better. I wish they were around when I had my CB20.