So, I just got one of these for channukah yesterday and was very excited. Started it and it is now in my basement waiting to ferment. This was very simple and I didn't have to boil anything(other than the tap water I used) and it was great. I know i'm going to sacrifice taste and all that with the simplicity of it. But, now I would like to know what to do next. Where are some good online sites I can buy hops and all that and what do you guys recommend for a beginner. Thanks.
Coopers DIY Kit
- Thread starter rwithtf
- Start date
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Yeah, when I used a Coopers easy kit I got for Christmas last year, I did not like the taste of it at all. But the point of them is to get you hooked on the brewing.
First of all, do you have equipment for brewing?
If you do not, then I would recommend finding a local homebrew shop in your area and try to visit them. I've been very happy with the local guys I've dealt with as they are great teachers, and will get you all your equipment and get you started with your first extract recipe.
Otherwise, the option is to go to places like northernbrewer.com and, if you have equipment, buy a basic EXTRACT beer kit (which comes with all the grains, hops, yeast, and ingredients you need).
But again, if you need equipment, what worked best for me was to find a local homebrew shop. You can also find a wealth of information on here as well, and guys would be more than happy to tell you what you need to get started.
First of all, do you have equipment for brewing?
If you do not, then I would recommend finding a local homebrew shop in your area and try to visit them. I've been very happy with the local guys I've dealt with as they are great teachers, and will get you all your equipment and get you started with your first extract recipe.
Otherwise, the option is to go to places like northernbrewer.com and, if you have equipment, buy a basic EXTRACT beer kit (which comes with all the grains, hops, yeast, and ingredients you need).
But again, if you need equipment, what worked best for me was to find a local homebrew shop. You can also find a wealth of information on here as well, and guys would be more than happy to tell you what you need to get started.
Someone will add to it if I'm missing something, but I use:
- Boil Pot (5 gal or higher - stainless steel)
- Stainless Steel spoon
- Mesh Bag (for steeping grains)
- Thermometer (for getting correct steeping temp)
- Hydrometer + Graduated cylinder (for taking SG and FG measurements)
- Blow off tube for bucket + small plastic container to hold blow off from the first couple days of fermenting
Im probably blanking on a couple things, so I know more people will chime in and say what else to use. But what i listed was things in addition to your equipment. I assume when you say bottler equipment you have the bottle wand, tubing, and capper.
- Boil Pot (5 gal or higher - stainless steel)
- Stainless Steel spoon
- Mesh Bag (for steeping grains)
- Thermometer (for getting correct steeping temp)
- Hydrometer + Graduated cylinder (for taking SG and FG measurements)
- Blow off tube for bucket + small plastic container to hold blow off from the first couple days of fermenting
Im probably blanking on a couple things, so I know more people will chime in and say what else to use. But what i listed was things in addition to your equipment. I assume when you say bottler equipment you have the bottle wand, tubing, and capper.
Well, there are those on the forum that do NOT like the Coopers kit.. possibly rightly so. I bought the DIY kit and really like the fermenter.. really like it. My first brew was the lager that is really an ale. How did it turn out? Well, it's beer. Could it be better? Yes. Sooner or later you might hear from "unionrdr" He has a lot of experience with the older kit.. but has worked out some processes to improve the kits.
What was wrong with my kit?? There was not enough fermantables IMO.. I would have used more DME or LME and I believe that would have added much more body and mouthfeel. I'd have added a bit more aroma and taste hops to compensate for the added DME/LME.. to help do some balancing.
What else to get?? If you continue to do partial boils such as with the kit.. you won't need a chiller.. However, I would start to accumulate craft type bottles and get a GOOD capper.. like a bench capper.. they are not expensive... they just need a bit of simple adjusting for different height bottles. The other MAIN thing is to get is a bottling bucket. You can make one from a good bucket and add a valve. You will need this unless you want to go the expense of using the carb drops. Plain sugar in water works very well and it's cheap.. so, you can pay for the bottling bucket easily. Revvy has a post about making a bottling bucket. Sooner or later you will probably want to go for a full boil.. or nearly so. I bought the turkey fryer with the 30 qt pot. It works very well. I believe it (the larger pot)has some advantages.. which you might decipher after reading a lot of posts. If you don't go with the turkey fryer.. you can buy a nice boiling kettle with a valve, etc.. maybe something like an 8-10 gal or larger size.
Other than that.. I'm not convinced, at this point, to go to all grain. I am exploring Brew In A Bag.. which is AG.. but.. using one bucket rather than the extra eqpt many/most use for AG. That will be a ways off for me.
Keep asking questions. But, know that you CAN make GOOD beer with these kits. A lot of people do. You might have to ask questions about the instructions you receive before brewing tho. Also, remember that the hydrometer is your friend.. not the instructions regarding bottling time. You can leave the beer in the fermenter without a problem for an added week or three before bottling. It allows the yeast to clean up it's by products and allows for good settling of the "stuff" suspended in the beer.
Good luck and....
What was wrong with my kit?? There was not enough fermantables IMO.. I would have used more DME or LME and I believe that would have added much more body and mouthfeel. I'd have added a bit more aroma and taste hops to compensate for the added DME/LME.. to help do some balancing.
What else to get?? If you continue to do partial boils such as with the kit.. you won't need a chiller.. However, I would start to accumulate craft type bottles and get a GOOD capper.. like a bench capper.. they are not expensive... they just need a bit of simple adjusting for different height bottles. The other MAIN thing is to get is a bottling bucket. You can make one from a good bucket and add a valve. You will need this unless you want to go the expense of using the carb drops. Plain sugar in water works very well and it's cheap.. so, you can pay for the bottling bucket easily. Revvy has a post about making a bottling bucket. Sooner or later you will probably want to go for a full boil.. or nearly so. I bought the turkey fryer with the 30 qt pot. It works very well. I believe it (the larger pot)has some advantages.. which you might decipher after reading a lot of posts. If you don't go with the turkey fryer.. you can buy a nice boiling kettle with a valve, etc.. maybe something like an 8-10 gal or larger size.
Other than that.. I'm not convinced, at this point, to go to all grain. I am exploring Brew In A Bag.. which is AG.. but.. using one bucket rather than the extra eqpt many/most use for AG. That will be a ways off for me.
Keep asking questions. But, know that you CAN make GOOD beer with these kits. A lot of people do. You might have to ask questions about the instructions you receive before brewing tho. Also, remember that the hydrometer is your friend.. not the instructions regarding bottling time. You can leave the beer in the fermenter without a problem for an added week or three before bottling. It allows the yeast to clean up it's by products and allows for good settling of the "stuff" suspended in the beer.
Good luck and....
Thanks for the post. I'm definitely going to keep the bucket. I was getting a little nervous because i didn't see any signs of fermentation before I left for work. But, I just came home and alas, it is bubbling!. I understand that the simplicity is definitely going to come with some disadvantages. The next thing I'm going to buy is a 30 qt pot from amazon and a Chestnut Ale from Brooklyn Brew Company. I was planning on doing a cooling wort process. But, I am trying to wait for it to snow(Stupid jersey weather.) I'm loving this forum. So much help. I'm hoping to hear from "unionrdr" and by DME and LME you mean dextrose, right?
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
raf1919
Well-Known Member
i started w/ coopers kit last xmas as well. and now am doing mini mash kits. that coopers fermenter is really nice better than all those buckets.
my favorite site is Austin Homebrew Supply great selection and prices. Happy brewing. and remember be patient. that kit that comes w/ the coopers wasnt bad.. just dont follow coopers instructions. let sit for 3 weeks before bottling and than another 3 weeks in bottle will taste great.
my favorite site is Austin Homebrew Supply great selection and prices. Happy brewing. and remember be patient. that kit that comes w/ the coopers wasnt bad.. just dont follow coopers instructions. let sit for 3 weeks before bottling and than another 3 weeks in bottle will taste great.
I find that the canned kits tend to make better brews than a lot of the popular weaker beers on the market (Budweiser, Miller, etc.).
One thing that will help improve the quality is time. The whole recommended 4-10 days for fermentation is going to be rushing it at some points. In fact, I have a Coopers Lager in a primary now that is still fermenting after 13 days.
Bottling time will help as well. 2 weeks is generally too soon. You will find that 3 weeks of conditioning in the bottle will improve the quality greatly.
You can also do more than simply following the directions, adding more fermentables, and giving more time. You can dry hop, use specialty grains, and add other ingredients (cocoa nibs, fruit, etc.) to change the overall taste and style.
Changing the yeast will also help make it a better beer. Consider picking up some liquid yeast of the style you are making.
Just my two cents.
One thing that will help improve the quality is time. The whole recommended 4-10 days for fermentation is going to be rushing it at some points. In fact, I have a Coopers Lager in a primary now that is still fermenting after 13 days.
Bottling time will help as well. 2 weeks is generally too soon. You will find that 3 weeks of conditioning in the bottle will improve the quality greatly.
You can also do more than simply following the directions, adding more fermentables, and giving more time. You can dry hop, use specialty grains, and add other ingredients (cocoa nibs, fruit, etc.) to change the overall taste and style.
Changing the yeast will also help make it a better beer. Consider picking up some liquid yeast of the style you are making.
Just my two cents.
GreenDragon
Well-Known Member
I did their wheat kit + an Austin Alcohol Boost and everyone liked it. I think it just depends on which on you brew. I've actually heard good things about their Irish Stout too.
umm....what are you making there with the bag of cinnamon?
Ok,I see it's time for my 2c worth. I use cooper's cans as a base more often as not. But I have done them fairly straight up too. We've got one in the fridge now awaiting Chrismas eve Saturday. I was going to wait till we tried it (wife's summer ale) from a recipe I came up with,& my Buckeye Burton ale. They got zero chill haze,1st time for that.
Anyway,Her summer ale used the cooper's OS lager can,1lb of Munton's plain light DME,1lb of plain wheat DME (munton's too). Also 1oz each of US Golding & Willamette raw hops from Hop Union,& 12 packets lemon crystal by "TruLemon". 2 packets equals 1TBSP,so 6TBSP jiuce to 6G of beer.
It smelled of floraly nectar & lemons when primed with the dextrose/lemon water mixture.
The Burton ale is my 1st attempt at resurecting the old #3 Burton. I think I got it pretty close,but we'll see Saturday. The ingredients are in my avatar & gallery pics. I find it better to add DME instead of sugar to the wort making process. So,anyway,you could use one can of OS lager with 2 or 3 pounds of plain light DME with half in the boil for hop additions at,say 20mins & 10 or 12 minutes. At flame out,add the remaining DME & stir it till completely dissolved.
Then add the cooper's can,stiring till no more can be scrapped off the bottom.
Then place in an ice bath in the sink,filling all the way up with ice,then topping off with water. I keep the pot covered at this point.
So you can add plain DME & hops to them to get better beer. Get used to that before going with fruit,oaking,etc.
Anyway,Her summer ale used the cooper's OS lager can,1lb of Munton's plain light DME,1lb of plain wheat DME (munton's too). Also 1oz each of US Golding & Willamette raw hops from Hop Union,& 12 packets lemon crystal by "TruLemon". 2 packets equals 1TBSP,so 6TBSP jiuce to 6G of beer.
It smelled of floraly nectar & lemons when primed with the dextrose/lemon water mixture.
The Burton ale is my 1st attempt at resurecting the old #3 Burton. I think I got it pretty close,but we'll see Saturday. The ingredients are in my avatar & gallery pics. I find it better to add DME instead of sugar to the wort making process. So,anyway,you could use one can of OS lager with 2 or 3 pounds of plain light DME with half in the boil for hop additions at,say 20mins & 10 or 12 minutes. At flame out,add the remaining DME & stir it till completely dissolved.
Then add the cooper's can,stiring till no more can be scrapped off the bottom.
Then place in an ice bath in the sink,filling all the way up with ice,then topping off with water. I keep the pot covered at this point.
So you can add plain DME & hops to them to get better beer. Get used to that before going with fruit,oaking,etc.
Hey again rwithf.. so, some good stuff here. I'd like to make one suggestion. YouTube.. For Coopers kits.. I don't know anyone besides unionrdr that does more with them. Check out "Craigtube" on Youtube. I'll give you one example of some simple modifications with a video by him..
Check [ame="http://www.youtube.com/user/CraigTube#p/u/57/WWISaKyMDg4"]This video[/ame] as one of his many examples. It'll help you get started. I always like to watch the reaction after his first taste of whatever beer he is trying.. I think he uses the same cut for each tasting..
Check [ame="http://www.youtube.com/user/CraigTube#p/u/57/WWISaKyMDg4"]This video[/ame] as one of his many examples. It'll help you get started. I always like to watch the reaction after his first taste of whatever beer he is trying.. I think he uses the same cut for each tasting..
My bottling videos are on youtube as well. So is my vid on Midwest Mazdafest 2010,where you can see the tuner guy side of me. I need some lighting to make my videos brighter. That's why I'm a little slow with putting up more,but many ideas are in the works,so stay tuned...Brewvision is just getting started.
Okay. So according to the coopers instructions I was to take off the middle part of the fermentation bucket and put into the dishwasher which I did. My question is, do i need to put that piece back on or is the top enough?
Nope.. you don't need to put it back on.. it's purpose is to get rid of the krausen that usually accumulates at the top of the fermenter. Just gets the krausen out of the picture.
How long did you leave the ring on? Did you take a beginning and intermediate gravity? Just sounds like from the time this started till you removed the rings was VERY fast.
Whatever, I wouldn't consider bottling until the gravity has been stable for about 3-4 days.. and then wait another 2 weeks. That's me. Then bottle and keep at room temp for another couple of weeks to condition after capping. I'm sure others will chime in... but, the instructions with the Coopers kits leave a bit to be desired. You can make excellent beer with them.. just need some tweeking. Also, the hydrometer.. not the instructions.. is your friend.
How long did you leave the ring on? Did you take a beginning and intermediate gravity? Just sounds like from the time this started till you removed the rings was VERY fast.
Whatever, I wouldn't consider bottling until the gravity has been stable for about 3-4 days.. and then wait another 2 weeks. That's me. Then bottle and keep at room temp for another couple of weeks to condition after capping. I'm sure others will chime in... but, the instructions with the Coopers kits leave a bit to be desired. You can make excellent beer with them.. just need some tweeking. Also, the hydrometer.. not the instructions.. is your friend.
bottlebomber
Well-Known Member
I highly recommend Brewmasters Warehouse. They have hundreds of recipe "kits" that will serve you well. Just make sure you're purchasing an extract kit. Northern Brewer is great for extract brewers for the catalogue, just be prepared to pay a little more. The cheapest way to brew is all grain, but if you aren't ready for that you can still save money by buying DME in bulk. Rebel Brewer has good prices on bulk DME, and their hop prices are good as well.
that's cool.. as long as the very active fermentation is completed.. three days or five.. whatever it takes. Once the real active fermentation has died down to little bubble rafts in the brew.. removal is warranted.. but, sooner won't hurt. I've left mine on for a week. The crud sticks to it and washes off easily.
You can take a gravity reading when you remove the ring.. or at one week. Be sure to record it. Couple days later.. take another and record. Couple days more.. do another. If the readings are stable.. you can assume the fermentation is complete. You can bottle it then.. or, better yet.. let it stay for another few days or a week.. then bottle.
You can take a gravity reading when you remove the ring.. or at one week. Be sure to record it. Couple days later.. take another and record. Couple days more.. do another. If the readings are stable.. you can assume the fermentation is complete. You can bottle it then.. or, better yet.. let it stay for another few days or a week.. then bottle.
Ok sounds good. One more thing, my brew was bubbling pretty good the past 2 days but now it seems to have died down to just some foam on the top. I'm a little nervous about this. Has my yeast gone bad? What can I do?
Your yeast has done the easy part of fermenting beer and has eaten all the easy sugars. It now needs time to eat the sugars that aren't so easy and also clean up the esters and phenols it produced while chowing down the easy sugars. It just doesn't give off CO2 during this phase so it is hard to tell that it is working, but it is. Don't be nervous, relax and have a brew instead.
I just realized. I took my OG after I put in the yeast and it was pretty high....3.01
Looking at others OG's this seems very high. Now it's down to 1.08.
So, I feel that I did something wrong and will now get a very high, inaccurate ABV %. Is there anything I can do.
Looking at others OG's this seems very high. Now it's down to 1.08.
So, I feel that I did something wrong and will now get a very high, inaccurate ABV %. Is there anything I can do.
Did your instructions list the OG range? Whatever they list there, you were probably pretty close. Its really hard to miss OG on an extract batch. Nothing to worry about, I'd just use the middle of the range they list as an OG and call it good.
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