Control Panel Schematics

[yo1dog]

http://awesomebox.net/share/Control-Panel-2.pdf

I wrote up some schematics based on some of PJ's diagrams. I am far from an electrical engineer so if you guys could double check my work I would appreciate it.
It is for a 120v system with a single pump and heating element.
PJ called for a 4A fuse to the pump socket. I went with 3A because Grainger didn't seem to have 4A fuses. I don't know if this is significant or not.

EDIT: Added relays for switches.

Here is the part list again with clickable links:
S1: Main Power Switch
15A 250V - Double Pole Single Throw Rocker Switch
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=272

S2: Heating Element Power Switch
S3: Pump Power Switch
10A 120/240V - Illuminated Maintained Pushbutton Switch, 2 NO
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=223

S4: Buzzer Power Switch
20A 125V - Toggle Switch, SPST, 2 Conn., Maint. On/Off
http://www.grainger.com/product/POWER-FIRST-Toggle-Switch-2VLN5

S5, S6: 1A Fuse
1A 250V Quick Blow - Fuse
http://www.grainger.com/product/BUSSMANN-Fuse-4XH40

S7: 3A Fuse
3A 250V Quick Blow - Fuse
http://www.grainger.com/product/BUSSMANN-Fuse-4XH44

30A 300V Fuse Block
http://www.grainger.com/product/BUSSMANN-Fuse-Block-1CZ43

RY1, RY2, RY3: Switch Relay
30A 120V - SPDT Relay
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=250

RY4: Heating Element SSR
40A 3-32VDC input, 90-480VAC output - SSR
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30

Heat Sink:
40A Heat Sink for SSR
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=77

Buzzer:
110-120VAC - Flashing Buzzer
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=215

PID:
1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output)
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3

Power Inlet:
5A 125V - Leviton 5239 NEMA L5-15R Socket
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YUKT/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Pump Socket:
15A 120V - Leviton NEMA 5-15R Socket
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=409

Heating Element Socket:
30A 240V - Leviton NEMA L6-30R Socket
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=410

Heating Element Plug:
30A 240V - Leviton NEMA L6-30P Plug
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=411

Heating Element:
240V - 5500 Watts - Water Heater Element, Extra Low Density, 240-5500-ELD
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html

Temperature Probe and Socket:
RTD Sensor with braided cable and connector
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=189

Pump
Chugger SS Inline
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CT62KR4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[dordelli]

I'm in the process of building a similar box and have purchased many of the same parts. I know nothing about electrical so please take my Qs with a grain of salt but why a DPST for the element switch, wouldn't it be better served for the pump switch where you can prevent the PiD from firing the element unless the pump is on?

 

[yo1dog]

I'm in the process of building a similar box and have purchased many of the same parts. I know nothing about electrical so please take my Qs with a grain of salt but why a DPST for the element switch, wouldn't it be better served for the pump switch where you can prevent the PiD from firing the element unless the pump is on?

I figured I would usually want the PID on for the temperature display, but I won't always want the heating element on. So I use the DPST to cut power to the SSR along with the heating element so the SSR wasn't unnecessarily switching and generating heat when the heating element isn't on. Is this a real concern? I guess I could just put it in manual mode...

I don't want to directly couple the heating element and the pump. There are some cases where I may want to use the pump and heating elements separately (using the heating element in a HLT, using the pump in a counterflow chiller, etc.).

I do see your point, though. If the element cannot be on without the pump, it will help prevent accidental scorching.

 

[jCOSbrew]

S2 wont work for Element Power, it is only rated for 10 amps.
Look for a toggle switch that is rated for 20-30amps.

Pump fuse (and wiring) will be determined by the pump power requirements.

S1 might also be marginal.

 

[yo1dog]

S2 wont work for Element Power, it is only rated for 10 amps.

Hmm, I didn't question S2 (pushbutton switches for heating element and pumps) because PJ uses them in his diagrams such as this one. They also seem to be used by Auber in their boxes.

Do you have a suggestion for an alternative?

Pump fuse (and wiring) will be determined by the pump power requirements.

I am using this Chugger pump: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CT62KR4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Can you suggest a fuse for that pump?

 

[dordelli]

I figured I would usually want the PID on for the temperature display, but I won't always want the heating element on. So I use the DPST to cut power to the SSR along with the heating element so the SSR wasn't unnecessarily switching and generating heat when the heating element isn't on. Is this a real concern? I guess I could just put it in manual mode...

I don't want to directly couple the heating element and the pump. There are some cases where I may want to use the pump and heating elements separately (using the heating element in a HLT, using the pump in a counterflow chiller, etc.).

I do see your point, though. If the element cannot be on without the pump, it will help prevent accidental scorching.

My application is a RIMs system so definitely would not want the element to fire without the pump running but for your application might be ok. I was gonna question the switch ratings of the main power and element switch too, 15amps might be cutting it close. I went with 20 amp toggles and the round indicator lights just to be safe. Or u could use contactors, I avoided these to keep my wiring simple, but many wiring diagrams out there using these.

 

[P-J]

S2 wont work for Element Power, it is only rated for 10 amps.
Look for a toggle switch that is rated for 20-30amps.

S2 is controlling a contactor. No problem there.

 

[yo1dog]

S2 is controlling a contactor. No problem there.

Err, actually one pole of S2 (heating element switch) switches power to the heating element and the other pole switches power to the SSR. This enables and disables the heating element and the SSR together.


I have updated my design and first post to use relays. Let me know if I did everything correctly. Thanks!

 

[jCOSbrew]

Updates will work but is probably overkill IMO:
* You don't need a relay for the pump. The 10A switch can directly turn power on/off for the 3A pump.

* The relay/contactor on the power input and the element will work but you could get away with a single contactor. For example, S1 could enable low current (pump and PID) and S2 + S1 could enable the element contactor.

It is your design so customize as you see fit!