Constant drive on a heating element?

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Could you define "quickly"?

When you have duty cycle 1sec or less you should start synchronizing your control pulses with mains period. Otherwise you can get a huge output error
for example on my mypin td4 pid, when in manual mode and set to 50% power.. the element is on for half a second then off for half a second ... pulsing, this never allows the element to get hotter than half power would allow.
 
I can also set the manual mode to 5% and it barely gets warm by comparison. no errors just a flicker of an led once every second.
 
A saturable core reactor would be ideal for this. Even smoother control than a Variac.

Very cool. Must be a custom made component? Wasn't able to find these off the shelf. Not sure I wanna know how much one would cost.
 
I wasn't being entirely serious here. I haven't seen one of these since right around the dawn of SCRs at which time they were being phased (no pun intended) out. A quick net search, however, shows that they are still made. I wonder what for.

The mention of the Variac invoked nostalgia (there used to be a handful in every lab) and that reminded me of the reactors.
 
Could you define "quickly"?

When you have duty cycle 1sec or less you should start synchronizing your control pulses with mains period. Otherwise you can get a huge output error

So how does a controller w/ 12VDC turning on/off an SSR - synchronize with the AC? or is it the SSR circuit that does the syncing such that the controller doesn't care when it triggers an on/off cycle?
 
So how does a controller w/ 12VDC turning on/off an SSR - synchronize with the AC? or is it the SSR circuit that does the syncing such that the controller doesn't care when it triggers an on/off cycle?
the ssr just pulses the power on and off at a certain fast rate determined by the cycle time setpoint of the pid.. I dont believe ac cycle time has much to do with it really its not pulsing it that fast. perhaps someone more knowledgeable will clarify. if the pid cycle setpoint is set for 2 second than in 50% manual mode the pid would power the element for 1 second then off for one second at least thats how it appeared to work on my mypin pids.
 
An SSR contains a triac (or a pair of SCR's). These do not conduct unless provided with a gate signal. The 12 V is in the gating circuit. Once the gate is applied the device will conduct, even though the gate be removed, for the remainder of the half cycle. There are lots of ways to gate these devices either synchronous to the supply or asynchronous. One way of effecting proportional control is to gate on for a certain number of half cycles and then off for another integer number of half cycles. This means the device can be switched on and off when the voltage (and current with a load like a heater) are 0 minimizing noise. Alternatively they can be switched on with a short pulse at some point in each half cycle in which case they will turn off when current drops to 0 at the end of the cycle. Or gating can be applied for some number of seconds and turned off for the rest of a cycle. This is what is done with the PID controller setups that home brewers use. The length of the cycle is usually set to something less than the thermal time constant of the load so that control of the PV is smooth. Typical values are a few seconds up to perhaps half a minute. There is really no problem with going below 1 second cycle time asynchronously. You may turn on in the middle of a line half cycle some time and at the beginning other times so you won't get precisely the same energy delivered from cycle (controller) to cycle but as there 120 half cycles (line) in a second the variability is small and the error will average out. OTOH there is no reason to go with such a short cycle time if the thermal time constant of the load is 30 seconds.
 
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An SSR contains a triac (or a pair of SCR's). These do not conduct unless provided with a gate signal. The 12 V is in the gating circuit. Once the gate is applied the device will conduct, even though the gate be removed, for the remainder of the half cycle. There are lots of ways to gate these devices either synchronous to the supply or asynchronous. One way of effecting proportional control is to gate on for a certain number of half cycles and then off for another integer number of half cycles. This means the device can be switched on and off when the voltage (and current with a load like a heater) are 0 minimizing noise. Alternatively they can be switched on with a short pulse at some point in each half cycle in which case they will turn off when current drops to 0 at the end of the cycle. Or gating can be applied for some number of seconds and turned off for the rest of a cycle. This is what is done with the PID controller setups that home brewers use. The length of the cycle is usually set to something less than the thermal time constant of the load so that control of the PV is smooth. Typical values are a few seconds up to perhaps half a minute. There is really no problem with going below 1 second cycle time asynchronously. You may turn on in the middle of a line half cycle some time and at the beginning other times so you won't get precisely the same energy delivered from cycle (controller) to cycle but as there 120 half cycles (line) in a second the variability is small and the error will average out. OTOH there is no reason to go with such a short cycle time if the thermal time constant of the load is 30 seconds.

Thank you for taking the time to explain. This explains how an Arduino cycles (turns on/off) an SSR without being connected or synced to the AC and how a PID can sync itself to the AC by being powered by it. If I understand correctly.
 

Yes, this is the one you referred me to earlier and demonstrates, using a custom triac circuit and an interrupt triggered at zero crossing, a synced approach using the Arduino. Again, if my understanding is correct.

So this would be slightly more efficient than just cycling an SSR on/off using an analog signal from the Arduino.
 
I’m with @augiedoggy. What’s the goal? For me, using standard SSR’s with short cycle times (~1 sec) work fine for reasonable cost and installation trouble. You can use a zero-cross SSR if you want to ensure the switch occurs at the base of the AC sine wave. Or use a proportional SSR. These are accessible, low cost, and proven reliable solutions. We are heating liquid, not modulating high speed control systems.

If defined control to the specific AC cycle is your goal, then this is really an academic exercise, upon which the above or other are possible solutions.
 
I’m with @augiedoggy. What’s the goal? For me, using standard SSR’s with short cycle times (~1 sec) work fine for reasonable cost and installation trouble. You can use a zero-cross SSR if you want to ensure the switch occurs at the base of the AC sine wave. Or use a proportional SSR. These are accessible, low cost, and proven reliable solutions. We are heating liquid, not modulating high speed control systems.

If defined control to the specific AC cycle is your goal, then this is really an academic exercise, upon which the above or other are possible solutions.

The goal is as the title says, "Constant drive on a heating element". That is - to drive a heating element without on/off switching.

As I've repeated many times I'm not an EE nor am I well versed in electronics so I had to pose the question and search for a solution.

"What is your goal" type questions are normally posed by more serious business type folks.

The result of asking questions is simply gaining understanding. Ancillary knowledge gained like switching mid sine wave vs. at zero crossing just adds value.

I'm considering the I2C variable pot solution just for kicks. Now wouldn't that be cool. A heating element controlled from the USB port of your PC using custom software. A software PID of sorts, controlled by mouse clicks on your screen and custom PID, Fuzzy logic, AI algorithm.
 
The goal is as the title says, "Constant drive on a heating element". That is - to drive a heating element without on/off switching.

As I've repeated many times I'm not an EE nor am I well versed in electronics so I had to pose the question and search for a solution.

"What is your goal" type questions are normally posed by more serious business type folks.

The result of asking questions is simply gaining understanding. Ancillary knowledge gained like switching mid sine wave vs. at zero crossing just adds value.

I'm considering the I2C variable pot solution just for kicks. Now wouldn't that be cool. A heating element controlled from the USB port of your PC using custom software. A software PID of sorts, controlled by mouse clicks on your screen and custom PID, Fuzzy logic, AI algorithm.
Ok but I asked mainly to understand if you were asking and considering this venture because you didnt understand it was really unecessary and how the normal method 95% of us use already controls the heat output and that its already easily done natively with adrduinos hardware and a simple ssr. Your questions above and in the omron thread also eluded to you not understanding how the on off switching already controlled heat output in a steady linear fashion like your describing.

It would have helped if you would have just shared this info upright as it would have prevented a lot of unnecessary posts. Nothing wrong with wanting to understand something better and accomplish something in a different more complex way. I wanted to know if there was a practical reason or application where this would be a better solution in case there was something I wasnot aware of.
And I and some others just wanted to make sure you understood before you drove down this path that theres already a paved road along side it. You say you posed the question for a solution and I wanted to make sure you understood there a better method all together that we use here for home brewing applications. In other words I wanted you to know lighters exist before you came here asking how to make matches to light your propane burner is all.

Please understand that this is a homebrewing forum and most of us will assume your looking for practical information related to accomplishing electric brewing Unless otherwise pointed out by the person asking. Not just for you but for all the other homebrewers looking for knowledge who might stumble on this looking for understanding and get confused as hell by something they really dont need to worry about to control their boil inless they want to. Its helps to get it out of the way so everyones on the same page before persueing academic theories and alternatives.

Sorry if im coming off condescending it really wasnt my intent I am just trying to communicate my point of view at this point since you have made it clear you felt it was not important for us to understand the true point of all this. After all you cant say you didnt learn more about how duty cycle and pwm control works because of us questioning you motive right?
 
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Ok but I asked mainly to understand if you were asking and considering this unnecessary venture because you didnt understand how the normal method 95% of us use already controls the heat output and that its already easily done natively with adrduinos hardware and a simple ssr. Your questions above and in the omron thread also eluded to you not understanding how the on off switching already controlled heat output in a linear fashion like your describing.

It would have helped if you would have just shared this info upright as it would have prevented a lot of unnecessary posts. Nothing wrong with wanting to understand something better and accomplish something in a different more complex way. I wanted to know if there was a practical reason or application where this would be a better solution in case there was something I wasnot aware of.
And I and some others just wanted to make sure you understood before you drove down this path that theres already a paved road along side it. You say you posed the question for a solution and I wanted to make sure you understood there a better method all together that we use here for home brewing applications. In other words I wanted you to know lighters exist before you came here asking how to make matches to light your propane burner is all.

Please understand that this is a homebrewing forum and most of us will assume your looking for practical information related to accomplishing electric brewing Unless otherwise pointed out by the person asking. Not just for you but for all the other homebrewers looking for knowledge who might stumble on this looking for understanding and get confused as hell by something they really dont need to worry about to control their boil. its helps to get it out of the way so everyones on the same page before persueing academic theories and alternatives.

Sorry if im coming off condescending it really wasnt my intent I am just trying to communicate my point of view at this point since you have made it clear you felt it was not important for us to understand the true point of all this.

I'm don't quite follow you but I've learned a great deal from all of the responses and apologize if I've offended you.
 
I'm don't quite follow you but I've learned a great deal from all of the responses and apologize if I've offended you.
No you havent, sorry I'm lousy at communicating online. I just felt that you weren't understanding the importance of your intentions and how they matter and factor in to how informative and clear the thread plays out for everyone involved is all.
 
The goal is as the title says, "Constant drive on a heating element". That is - to drive a heating element without on/off switching.

...
You cannot control an AC powered heater without on/off pulsing. The AC voltage and current go to zero 120 times a second (in the USA), which means at those points the element is off. Phase angle power control, is still on/off switching, but at a cycle time of 8.33 msec. So, everything discussed so far in this thread is still on/off pulsing. The only thing changing is the cycle time, which for the options discussed varies from 8.33 msec up to 2 sec.

The only way to get zero on/off pulsing is to use a controlled output voltage DC power supply. If you want to go this way, a switching power supply is much more efficient than a linear supply (I don't even know if you can find a linear supply at ~5500W.)

Looking for a solution implies that there is a problem that needs to be solved. Many of the replies to this thread are asking what is the actual problem that needs to be solved, and noting that there is no real unsolved problem related to powering heating elements in homebrewing applications. One of the basic tenants of engineering is that if you don't understand and state the problem correctly, you are very unlikely to find a good solution.

Brew on :mug:
 
You cannot control an AC powered heater without on/off pulsing. The AC voltage and current go to zero 120 times a second (in the USA), which means at those points the element is off. Phase angle power control, is still on/off switching, but at a cycle time of 8.33 msec. So, everything discussed so far in this thread is still on/off pulsing. The only thing changing is the cycle time, which for the options discussed varies from 8.33 msec up to 2 sec.

The only way to get zero on/off pulsing is to use a controlled output voltage DC power supply. If you want to go this way, a switching power supply is much more efficient than a linear supply (I don't even know if you can find a linear supply at ~5500W.)

Looking for a solution implies that there is a problem that needs to be solved. Many of the replies to this thread are asking what is the actual problem that needs to be solved, and noting that there is no real unsolved problem related to powering heating elements in homebrewing applications. One of the basic tenants of engineering is that if you don't understand and state the problem correctly, you are very unlikely to find a good solution.

I think this might be getting a little out of hand. I've already stated I'm not an EE and don't understand, therefore if answers were provided that helped me understand and come to a conclusion how can that be questioned?

I think this question has been answered and don't want to get into another discussion.
 
One of the basic tenants of engineering is that if you don't understand and state the problem correctly, you are very unlikely to find a good solution.

Reminds me of a Dilbert comic strip!
 
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I think this might be getting a little out of hand. I've already stated I'm not an EE and don't understand, therefore if answers were provided that helped me understand and come to a conclusion how can that be questioned?

I think this question has been answered and don't want to get into another discussion.
So what is your conclusion?

Brew on :mug:
 
You cannot control an AC powered heater without on/off pulsing. The AC voltage and current go to zero 120 times a second (in the USA), which means at those points the element is off. Phase angle power control, is still on/off switching, but at a cycle time of 8.33 msec. So, everything discussed so far in this thread is still on/off pulsing. The only thing changing is the cycle time, which for the options discussed varies from 8.33 msec up to 2 sec.

The only way to get zero on/off pulsing is to use a controlled output voltage DC power supply. If you want to go this way, a switching power supply is much more efficient than a linear supply (I don't even know if you can find a linear supply at ~5500W.)

Looking for a solution implies that there is a problem that needs to be solved. Many of the replies to this thread are asking what is the actual problem that needs to be solved, and noting that there is no real unsolved problem related to powering heating elements in homebrewing applications. One of the basic tenants of engineering is that if you don't understand and state the problem correctly, you are very unlikely to find a good solution.

Brew on :mug:

Doug beat me to it - this would have been my exact response. AC, “Alternating Current”, by its very definition, works via “on” and “off” periods, so saying you don’t want that is conflicting.

Also as Doug mentioned, stating your goal can help drive the solution. It sounds to me you are down for the exercise of testing a unique pathway. But as a guy with a bit of Arduino/Software experience, I’ll tell you this isn’t how I’d skin that cat if practicality, cost, reliability, etc. were all being considered.
 
So what is your conclusion?

1.) It is possible to drive a heating element without on/off switching of the AC and the most viable solution is the one AJDelange offers using a saturable core reactor but those are custom built components and aren't cheap.

2.) There's a difference between a controller driving an SSR and the SSR driving the AC. Eliminating the controller switching the SSR on and off (or at least hiding it from the user) is done by using a proportional SSR which is driven by a variable potentiometer or rheostat - or a variable low voltage input (SSVR?). Eliminating the SSR switching the AC on/off isn't possible as that's how a triac circuit works, however you can get a "zero crossing" SSR which will switch at 0 degrees and be a bit more efficient than chopping off the sine wave.

3.) Either implement one of the #2's with an Arduino or purchase a PID unit, and I'm not sure if they can drive proportional SSR's or not. Then there's question of PID algorithms, etc... which was touched on in the other thread.

4.) From my point of view, the fact that AC works by alternating periods is too low level and really beside the point of this conversation.
 
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Not sure if we’re going for the same thing, but my Auberin Pids have 2 control settings (outL & outH) which allows me to raise the crossover point so as to get a more level boil. I usually use 60 & 70 percent.
 
1.) It is possible to drive a heating element without on/off switching of the AC and the most viable solution is the one AJDelange offers using a saturable core reactor but those are custom built components and aren't cheap.
Even a saturable core reactor uses AC and so is subject to the microseconds of off time when current goes through 0 at the end of each half cycle. Now a three phase saturable core reactor followed by a bridge rectifier would give you reasonably smooth (low ripple) DC with no zero crossings. So would a single phase rectifier with a capacitor to "fill in" near the 0 crossings. So would a linear power supply with a regulator (we want control here too) but we eschew those because of the power loss in the series pass transistor. How about a switching power supply? Much more efficient and also regulates?

The reactor solution was offered sort of tongue in cheek but the switching power supply can be offered seriously as it meets the requirements of giving you an adjustable continuous DC voltage to the elements without the losses of a pass transistor. Of course something is switched in a switching power supply but it is the input.
 
Even a saturable core reactor uses AC and so is subject to the microseconds of off time when current goes through 0 at the end of each half cycle. Now a three phase saturable core reactor followed by a bridge rectifier would give you reasonably smooth (low ripple) DC with no zero crossings. So would a single phase rectifier with a capacitor to "fill in" near the 0 crossings. So would a linear power supply with a regulator (we want control here too) but we eschew those because of the power loss in the series pass transistor. How about a switching power supply? Much more efficient and also regulates?

The reactor solution was offered sort of tongue in cheek but the switching power supply can be offered seriously as it meets the requirements of giving you an adjustable continuous DC voltage to the elements without the losses of a pass transistor. Of course something is switched in a switching power supply but it is the input.

*Not* talking about the sine wave of the AC, as noted numerous times that can't be changed. It's about the device providing constant power from 0W to 5500W to the element and being able to adjust it dynamically without turning or switching the (AC) power on and off for certain periods of time. A smooth transition from 0W to 50W from 50W to 1000W from 1000W to 500W from 500W to 4326W, etc... Dynamically adjustable power without a "period" or "cycle" time in which the AC is literally disconnected or turned off from the device and then turned back on. A 1s cycle time in which the AC power is turned on for 0.75s and turned off for 0.25s. <- is *not* what we're after.

As I understand it a saturable core reactor provides variable impedance to AC power, which seems to be inline with what is needed.

As an after thought I haven't researched DC powered heating elements nor what happens if you apply dc power to an ac element. It probably just has reduced capacity (i.e. doesn't provide the rated wattage).
 
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When we talk about 240 VAC and AC current we are ignoring the fact that the AC voltage is a sine wave that varies in amplitude from +339.4 V to - 339.4 V and that 10 amperes of current means that the current is varying from 14.1 amps in one direction to 14.1 amps in the other. Instead we figure out how much DC voltage and current would be required to produce the same average heat and publish those numbers. Thus a heater supplied 240 V AC will produce the same amount of heat if it is supplied with 240 V DC except for tiny effects related to the inductance of the wires connecting it and "skin" effect (to which DC isn't subject).
 
So, build a 240VAC to 240DC power supply (bridge rectifier), smooth the signal to perfectly flat +240VDC w/ some additional components (maybe a capacitor).

Now what?

Are there digitally controlled variable rheostats, potentiometers that can handle such high voltage? How would one smoothly control the 0VDC - 240VDC input into the heating element?

I've noticed there are DC specific heating elements but not sure what advantage they have. They're marketed for solar power.
 
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So, build a 240VAC to 240DC power supply (bridge rectifier), smooth the signal to perfectly flat +240VDC w/ some additional components.

Now what?

Are there digitally controlled variable rheostats, potentiometers that can handle such high voltage? How would one smoothly control the 0VDC - 240VDC input into the heating element?

I've noticed there are DC specific heating elements but not sure what advantage they have. They're marketed for solar power.
In it's simplest form, a switching power supply is just a bridge rectifier on the AC input, followed by some filtering, followed by a pulse width modulator, and finally more filtering. There is also a feedback circuit that monitors the output voltage and feeds an adjustment signal to the PWM to maintain the desired output voltage. The interesting thing about the switching power supply is that instead of PWM working at 8.33 msec cycle time, or slower, the PWM works with cycle times from about 100 micro sec (10 kHz) to 1 micro sec (1 MHz.) The higher frequency operation allows the use of smaller capacitors and inductors in the output filter circuit to obtain a given amount of output ripple.

You could use use voltage control of the feedback loop to control the output voltage, much like a PID uses the difference between the set temperature and measured temperature to control an SSR.

Notice that you still have pulsing voltage and current in the system, just usually at a higher frequency. The thing about pulsed power is that if the cycle time of the pulsed power is much less than the thermal time constant of the element, then the difference between DC and pulsed is not noticeable at the element output (which is what most of the posters in this thread have been hammering on.)

Brew on :mug:
 
In the simplest manifestation you would use IGFETs or IGBT's in the bridge instead of plain diodes and gate them from 0 to 1/120th second synchronous with the power line. You wind up with exactly what you would have with a triac gated this way except all the current pulses are in the same direction. Thus you can put a capacitor across the output of the bridge and smooth some of the ripple. It's going to have to be a pretty big cap, though, and in this application there is really no reason for doing this as it confers no advantage.

The other alternative is to use diodes in the bridge, put a more modest sized capacitor across the output and connect that to another capacitor through an IGFET or IGBPT gated by a controller which turns on the transistor with a PWM signal whose duty cycle is determined by the difference between a desired output voltage and the voltage measured at the second capacitor (i.e. across the load) and whose frequency is in the 10's or 100's of kHz. This is a feedback regulated bucking DC/DC converter. With high enough gating rate it can take out much of the ripple from the diode bridge rectifier thus giving much lower ripple at the output. But to what end? Again, there is in this application no advantage to doing this except as a learning exercise.
 
But of course it is. One buys a Variac with a motor instead of a knob and uses a servo circuit to position the motor shaft to keep the output voltage at a desired set point. I actually had one of these in the Middle East. It wasn't controlled by an Arduino though.
 
What electronics are used to constantly drive a heating element eliminating the rapid on/off switching of a PID?

I was thinking a frequency drive might do this but then how would the FD be controlled from say an Arduino?

Is this even possible without burning out the element faster?

Any electronics whizzes out there who can help?
Can you please state for the record why you want to avoid rapid switching? We all want to know If you have an interesting end goal or just didnt know that rapid switching is the way this is done and that there are no function downside.
 
I’m not going back to reread this whole thread to make sure this was said at one point so don’t quote me on it, but I thought at one point it was mentioned that the rapid cycling of on off power from the duty cycle setting of the PID may shorten the life of the element. All that aside I think this thread got a little too techy for what the OP was asking for. I’m an electronics technician so I understand electricity, duty cycles, and all that stuff. If I understood the OP correctly he just wants smooth power transition with out the pulsing from the PID. We effectively covered multiple ways to vary and control the power, but I think all he was trying to do was turn the voltage down. A variac does this well, but as already mentioned, it would be kind of impractical. As far as the ardunio control, that is really separate issue in my mind.
 
All that aside I think this thread got a little too techy for what the OP was asking for.

Absolutely. Yes.

If I understood the OP correctly he just wants smooth power transition with out the pulsing from the PID.

Absolutely. Yes.

I can do without the insults and overly technical explanations.
 
Can you please state for the record why you want to avoid rapid switching? We all want to know If you have an interesting end goal or just didnt know that rapid switching is the way this is done and that there are no function downside.

When I learned rapid on/off switching of the SSR by the controller was the method used, I thought there must be a better way. The interesting end goal *is* constant drive or power to the element. Learning that wasn't possible, I thought maybe there was an abstraction that could be used to hide the rapid on/off switching of the SSR by the controller. Thus the suggestion of the proportional SSR.

In terms of algorithms (PID, AI, Fuzzy) used to control the SSR, I don't know if there would be any difference between one designed for rapid on/off switching and one that "thinks" in terms of a smooth linear percentage of power 0% - 100%. Perhaps that algorithm would also be an interesting end goal.
 
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@ maisch
I’m glad I interpreted your post correctly for what you were asking. Sometimes we all have ideas in our head that don’t seem to come out of our mouths or go to print the right way to ask the right questions. Everyone will always have there own interpretations to every post. Also, there are a lot of really smart and technically sound people in this form that come up with ideas, solutions, and contraptions that sometimes make my head spin. Take replies to posts with a grain of salt sometimes. I don’t feel anyone was being malicious in this thread, they were just trying to understand and provide help. I think they just didn’t feel you were directly answering their questions and got a little frustrated. Anyway, I’m not going to sit here and preach, and I hope you can find a viable way to do the idea in your head. Brew on!
 
The interesting end goal *is* constant drive or power to the element. Learning that wasn't possible...
This may be where you are hung up. The goal isn't really constant drive power to the element at all. It is constant heat delivery to the load (wort). Constant heat is indeed impossible but we can approximate it sufficiently closely by supplying pulses of heat as long as they are sufficiently closely spaced such that a plot of temperature vs time is not discernibly different from a sloped straight line until boiling is reached after which we want boiling to be continuously maintained at a uniform level of vigour.

The thing that allows us to do this with pulses is a thermal time constant that is greater than the pulse spacing. Think of a can with a hole in the bottom. Water flows out of the can at a rate proportional to how full the can is. If the can is big enough and the hole small enough we can maintain a virtually constant flow of water through the hole even though we dump a cup of water into the can, walk across the room to the sink to refill the cup, come back and dump it in, and repeat. If we hustle the water level in the can will rise as ON AVERAGE we are filling the can faster than the water is running out. Of course the fuller the can becomes the faster the water flows out and we have to keep hustling. If we are leisurely the opposite is true. Thus the flow from the can can be pretty uniform and at any rate we want which we control by how frequently we dump in a cup of water and/or by how big a cup we use.

The water flow is not completely uniform but if the can is big enough it can be made to be pretty smooth.
 

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