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Consistent off flavor in all my homebrews

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My stove isn't strong enough and I'm not mechanically inclined enough to make a "heat stick"
 
Good catch. I half cover it in attempts to increase the boil. I figured all the nastys could still escape, but I could be wrong.
 
I don't think it's DMS then. The smell is slightly sharp and registers as acidic. I'm thinking now it could be fusel alcohols caused by not oxyginating the work correctly. I think I'm going to invest in a Oxinator
 
I don't think it's DMS then. The smell is slightly sharp and registers as acidic. I'm thinking now it could be fusel alcohols caused by not oxyginating the work correctly. I think I'm going to invest in a Oxinator

I think you should invest in a propane burner to get a real boil and not have to cover your pot. Many people get great results from oxygenating the wort by simply passing it between a few buckets or shaking the carboy.

Having an oxygen stone just makes it easier, but I think a good boil with an uncovered pot is more important.
 
Do you drink from the bottle? Stir up the yeast when you pour? That's a pretty gross taste and prob what a lot of people describe as "home brew taste."

If its water, wouldn't all Chicago brewers who don't treat it get the same taste? A Chicago style after taste?
 
Now excuse me if this has been mentioned or not yet as I don't have time to read through everything, but maybe you should (assuming you're not already) utilize a hop bag during boil. I found this process removed a gross aftertaste for me because it eliminated scorched hops.

Just a thought, good luck!
 
Oh, and from what I've read about forgetting to oxygenate wort. If you're pitching yeast starters, or dry yeast, the oxygenation isn't AS important. I'm not sure if you do starters—you should if you dont. I'm guessing at least one of ten batches was pitched with dry yeast. If that's the case and you still got the flavors, I'm guessing it's not the oxygen.

Another thing, do you let the beer sit on the lees for extended periods of time? I know you transfer to secondary and cold crash for four days, but do you of let the beer sit in primary for long periods of time? It's claimed that after 45 days or so on the lees, off flavors start to happen.
 
I think you should invest in a propane burner to get a real boil and not have to cover your pot. Many people get great results from oxygenating the wort by simply passing it between a few buckets or shaking the carboy.

Having an oxygen stone just makes it easier, but I think a good boil with an uncovered pot is more important.

Im with the above poster a propane burner is the best for full boils, i was doing partial extracts on the stove but full boils will benefit greatly from a propane burner
 
if you are going to stick electric. kal's site made it super easy to make a heat stick. theelectricbrewery.com . while i'm not doing his whole setup. i easily picked up a lot of things i hadn't thought to do. but not getting a full boil i would think hurts the taste.
 
if you brew in doors on your stove place the kettle over 2 burners that's what I do full rolling boil on my stove I also take alum foil fold it a couple times and wrap around the bottom of the kettle blocking any gaps between the stove and the kettle for better Heat retention your method does not sound much diff from mine but I ferment at 63 and go to 66 after primary ferm is over for ales and I have never heard of using champden tabs in beer could this be the issue? and I have been brewing over a year and have never has this (homebrew taste) you speak of nor have any of my friends of fam that have tasted my beer
btw im all grain biab I also just started kegging a month ago "AWESOME!!" **** bottles only good bottle is one your shooting at ^^
 

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