Comprehensive Kegging Question

[NorsemenRugby58]

I have read the sticky....so reminders are not necessary.

That being said, I have tried all but one method for force carbonating my cornelius kegs. I am going to list the methods I've tried and my results in a numbered fashion so people can respond accordingly to the numbers with comments or advice.

1) Since I believe that the main purpose of kegging (to me, cleaning bottles etc not an issue...although the less work is a +) is to bypass the two-three weeks of bottle conditioning. The first method I tried was the boost method from the sticky. I received over carbonated brew that was all foam which dissipated into a beer with no carbonation at all. I tried this multiple times and it didn't work. I've also tried multiple variants like..... set to high PSI (usually 30-40 range) shake for 5 mins, 20mins, all kinds of times, and nothing works. I've even tried disconnecting the C02 after and leaving the keg in the fridge to cool down and carb.

2) My local home brew shop owner told me to try and force carb it from the bottom (through the draw line). This was generally with the same methods mentioned in #1 with equal results.

The only method I have no tried is the "set and forget". I have only tried this method after applying it to an overcarbed beer that was whisked out. Obviously this cant be counted as a true attempt.

I all-grain and for those who also this is, its a long process which soaks and entire day, and I am sick and tired of ruining my beer. I really wanna keg and cant seem to get it nailed down. I bought an extract kit and will be applying the set and forget method to it...if it works... I will continue the practice until i can nail down getting it carbed faster. Until then, if anybody could provide...in this thread, either links/books/or advice on how to SUCCESSFULLY force carb your beer FASTER...Id appreciate it. The sticky just doesnt cut it that boost method has failed me 3x and I followed it to a T, I did not miss a step! (by the third fail i was pretty damn pissed and frustrated so really guys, didnt miss a thing)

2)

 

[wildwest450]

Slaps forehead! The set it and forget method is tried and true. It is IMPOSSIBLE to over carbonate using this method.

I won't remind you to read the stickies, BUT, the search function is nice. There are hundreds of threads on this exact subject, hundreds.

BTW, how does all grain take all day? 4-6 hours tops.

 

[pcollins]

I can totally understand your frustration.

I have tried a couple of methods. Set and forget has worked the best for me but it does take about a week to get to proper carbonation. I have reasonable carbonation after 3-4 days (similar in quality to cask ale) but it's definitely better carbonation after the week is up. After that it's smooth sailing. I'm setting my regulator to 10psi and my fridge is at about 34ºF.

I did try to rush a carbonation once but was worried about over carbing the beer. I set my regulator to just above 20psi and shook the keg every few hours on the first day and once more on the start of the next day and then let it settle. Part way through the second day I released the gas in the keg and turned the regulator down to 10psi and repressurized. At the end of that day I had reasonably carbonated beer. Different than the set and forget but it got the job done.

I hope that is helpful in some way.

 

[Suthrncomfrt1884]

This is exactly why I frown upon people suggesting the "boost" method to new keggers. Since you've already been waiting 3-4 weeks for bottles, what's a week less going to hurt with a keg.

Truth is, your beer will be fully carbonated in 5-7 days with the set it and forget it method...it's just green. If you brew a wheat or an IPA, you'll be drinking them in less than a week. If you brew anything that's not supposed to be enjoyed young, then I suggest waiting at least 2-3 weeks. This allows the carbonic acid to mellow and your beer will be conditioned. Once you get a good solid line of kegs ready, you won't be so concerned with time because you'll have plenty on tap as is.

Some people are going to reply to this telling you how great the "boost" method is... but I've also tried it multiple times only to end up with overcarbed beer. I'll stick with the tried and true method of "set it and forget it".

 

[mosquitocontrol]

If you want it done faster. Set your regulator to desired serving pressure. Then shake it for 30-40 minutes hooked up to the regulator (while already cold). Its physically impossible to overcarb it that way. You can't force 25lbs in when its only set to 12psi.You will just have to shake it longer and have some strong arms. You may need to repeat the same within like 12-24 hours.

With that said, I naturally prime. I like the extra conditioning time as it only makes it better. But in a pinch the above method works.

 

[JakeTheHopDog]

I set it and forget it. In a week or so, I have nicely carbonated beer. Here's the spreadsheet for setting the pressure, which helps a lot.

View attachment Force Carbonation Chart.zip

 

[howabouttheiris]

As stated... the set-n-forget is pretty fool proof and all I use. (Put it in the fridge and connect to the same pressure I am running the current keg.)

I have tried #1 a couple times, (30lbs for 48 hours reduce to 10 to serve) worked "good enough", but was perfect in 2 days.

I have done the shake method once and the keg was "good enough" with 30 minutes shaking and 4 hours to cool.

#2 does not help and will really only wreck your connections (the in and out are slightly different)

Are you sure your beer lines are the clean/correct size/length, as not to drive the carbonation out at serving?

 

[Hammy71]

Kegging is not a substitute conditioning. When you rush things....you get a rushed product. A couple weeks conditioning at room temp....and then set and forget it in your keggerator....

 

[fuzzybee]

Are you sure your beer lines are the clean/correct size/length, as not to drive the carbonation out at serving?

^^ This.

How long are your beer lines?

 

[Gwitz]

It really sounds like you are using to much pressure to serve. Try blowing the keg right down and slowly increasing pressure on the reg till it comes out. I have also found young beers to be harder to pour. I carbbed a beer young once, it just wouldnt pour, a week later, no problem.

In my personal experience, it is absolutely impossible to completely ruin a beer via carbonation, you can always blow it down and shake the co2 out. I also second good clean equipment.

 

[Yooper]

I don't shake my kegs before serving, just like I don't shake my soda bottles before serving.

Kegging does NOT take the place of conditioning. Green beer is green beer. With kegging, you can get a carbonated green beer of course, but that doesn't mean it's "ready".

That said, I can have a keg carbonated and ready to serve in three days.

 

[SweetSounds]

OP - What temperature were the kegs when you were trying to force carb them?

Not that I really know WTH I'm doing, but it works for me:
I don't carb until the kegs are at keezer temp. Then I set and forget.
IF I'm in a hurry, I'll crank to 30 PSI or so and set the keg on the edge of my keezer (Leg works too) Then rock it end to end like a teeter-totter for about 5 or 10 minutes. Slowly - you'll hear the CO2 going in. Then it's back to serving pressure for the "forget" part...
That's it. It's not enough to get properly carbed beer, but it'll never over carb the beer either! In other words, it's enough to pull a glass or 2 to drink, because I'm impatient sometimes. And in a few days it will reach the right volume of CO2 in solution.

All that said, +1000 to Yoop and the others - Green beer is going to suck no matter how you carb it...

I think once you get a pipeline built up, and you have beer to drink already on tap, the set/forget method will serve you quite well.

 

[JuanMoore]

Kegging does NOT take the place of conditioning. Green beer is green beer. With kegging, you can get a carbonated green beer of course, but that doesn't mean it's "ready".

+1

I prime with sugar in the keg to carbonate just so that I'm not tempted to drink it before it's fully done conditioning. When it comes to brewing, patience is usually very well rewarded.

 

[petep1980]

BTW, how does all grain take all day? 4-6 hours tops.

By the time hour 2 rolls around for me on an AG day I am too drunk to do anything efficiently. AG takes me around 8 hours.

What I did this weekend and it worked perfectly.

Chill keg. Apply CO2 and roll keg on the ground for 15+ minutes. The CO2 I apply is right off the charts, not 30-40, but more like 12-15. Keep rolling the keg until you don't hear CO2 going back in. Then you turn the keg up-right, bleed off excess CO2, re-apply CO2 line and vualah!!! you have carbonated beer.

 

[NorsemenRugby58]

As stated... the set-n-forget is pretty fool proof and all I use. (Put it in the fridge and connect to the same pressure I am running the current keg.)

I have tried #1 a couple times, (30lbs for 48 hours reduce to 10 to serve) worked "good enough", but was perfect in 2 days.

I have done the shake method once and the keg was "good enough" with 30 minutes shaking and 4 hours to cool.

#2 does not help and will really only wreck your connections (the in and out are slightly different)

Are you sure your beer lines are the clean/correct size/length, as not to drive the carbonation out at serving?

I have heard a little bit about beer lines and such (length) forcing the carb out. Can you explain that further? I got a corny keg with a 3' hose I think.

 

[NorsemenRugby58]

I don't shake my kegs before serving, just like I don't shake my soda bottles before serving.

Kegging does NOT take the place of conditioning. Green beer is green beer. With kegging, you can get a carbonated green beer of course, but that doesn't mean it's "ready".

That said, I can have a keg carbonated and ready to serve in three days.

I condition it in secondary usually for at least a week before transferring to a keg, does that count?

 

[JuanMoore]

I have heard a little bit about beer lines and such (length) forcing the carb out. Can you explain that further? I got a corny keg with a 3' hose I think.

The first step is using a chart like this to figure out the proper pressure to achieve your desired carbonation level. The next step is to use that information to figure out the proper diameter and length of beer line needed to get a good pour. Even with a very small hose, 3' is most likely way too short, and could cause a very foamy pour. Here's a link that shows how to calculate line length, but most people here just advise using 10' of 3/16" diameter line, and cutting a little off at a time if it needs it.

I condition it in secondary usually for at least a week before transferring to a keg, does that count?

Maybe, depends on how long you leave it in the primary, the OG of the beer, and a few other factors. I brew mostly higher gravity beers, and typically don't start drinking them until 7-10 weeks after brew day (4 weeks in primary and 3-5 weeks conditioning in kegs or bottles).

 

[NorsemenRugby58]

thanks for the links & advice everyone, I will be trying these tips with my extract brown that should be ready soon. In the meantime I'll be hitting my bottles with some AGs and maybe even throw one into a keg and try it out again!