lunchbox
Well-Known Member
It's been over a year since I've brewed, and with school and 4 kids, it is going to be even longer until I can again. Sadly, I'm going to sell my entire setup.
This is probably one of the most complete setups that you'll see for sale.
First, let me start by saying that I do not want to part this out. I'd like to get rid of it all at once.
Setup
I have an electric scale with detachable face for measuring out your grain. Once it's measured you can crush it with the Barley Crusher. It comes with the extended hopper. For your yeast, I have a 2000ml flask with a stir plate. I also have a box of mason jars for you can store and harvest your own yeast. Included with be a separate fridge/freezer combo that will allow you to store the yeast (along with beer) on the fridge side and store your bulk hops on the freezer side. There is also a small scale for measuring hops, sugar, ect.
Brewing
The stand and control panel are made out of wood. The top of the stand had tile on it, but I recently removed the tile, so it's just sitting on the wood again. It's got four heavy duty casters and is pretty easy to move around. There is also a ton of storage space under the stand. You can either stash supplies there, or you can put the kettles under there when you're done brewing. That's what I chose since I had painted by brewery logo on the tiles and wanted to show it off. :rockin:
The control panel has a key to turn it on and off.
There is a PID that controls the temp, and a switch to have the PID control one of the two 240V UL heating elements. The PID will also set off the alarm, which also has an on/off switch. Further, there are two switches for the two pumps, which can be run simultaneously. All of these switches have lights to indicate when they are in use.
The three kettles are all 15 gallon stainless steel and are bayou classics.
The HLT has one of the two heating elements as well as the temperature probe that is connected to the PID. The lid of the HLT has an immersion chiller connected to it. The wort pumps out of the mash tun and through the chiller which is emerged in the HLT whose temperature is controlled by the PID. Thus, the mash temp is regulated. Finally, there is a barb at the top, which allows you to circulate the water via a pump out the bottom and back through the top. This circulation prevents hot spots and gives a consistent temperature throughout.
The mash tun has a bazooka tube which works really well. I've never had a stuck mash and I'm glad I went with it. I use a piece of tubing to bring the wort back into the kettle from the immersion chiller so that it doesn't splash. For sparging, I have a sparge arm.
The boil kettle has the second 240v UL heating element. Since the PID can only be configured for one temperature probe, you use the power percentage mode on the PID for the boil kettle. I've just put it on 100% power until I achieved a boil, then lowered it back down. Once it's done, you pump it through the Shirron plate chiller and into the conical.
The wort is being move via the control panel, which has two march pumps connected to it. I've had them screwed into the stand upside down under the kettles, but have them off for now. There is also a timer with the option for having four simultaneous countdowns going on. To get gravity measurements I have a refractometer that gives the readout in gravity.
I have a few extra parts, like two spare 240v heating elements, some spare lights for the control panel, and a few other things.
Fermenting
I have a full size fridge w/ no freezer. Inside the fridge fits 1 15 gallon plastic conical with its metal stand. Now, I've never used this conical. The plan was to convert it using the methods from the epic thread on Homebrewtalk, but I never got around to it. There is also a dual stage temp controller (ST1000) that was never connected to the fridge that will keep your wort at the exact temperature that you want while the yeast turn it into delicious beer. There is also a nice little rack above the conical for storing beer, or yeast or whatever.
Also included will be three glass carboys. One is a 6.5 gallon, and I believe the other two are 5 gallon.
Serving
I have a Keezer with 4 Perlick taps. The tower is made out of PVC pipe and painted to match the rest of the freezer. The temperature is controlled by a analog controller, I believe a Johnson. For gas, I have a 5 gal CO2 tank with a dual regulator. I also have a splitter so the regulator can control two kegs. I have a spare dual regulator system and a single regulator as well.
I also have 9 ball lock corny kegs. The one with the green lid was used for root beer for my kids. I designated that one root beer since I've heard you can never really get the smell out... The freezer was painted a few years ago, and could really use a fresh coat.
If you wish to bottle some of your beer for either aging, bringing to a party, or for competition, I have a counter-pressure bottle filler to keep the foam down and the CO2 up.
Misc
I have kept my floating thermometers and other older equipment as backup, although I haven't needed it. There are quite a few gasket replacement kits for the kegs that I haven't needed yet, but will be included. I also have 15 or so white lab vials that you can turn in for some cool swag. And finally, I have what seems like miles of tubing, including hi temp stuff for use with the pumps. They have been hanging in my garage for quite a while, but I'll include it if you'd like.
Price
I'm sure that I'm forgetting a few things, but I will include all that I've listed, and anything else that I haven't as I find it. The system has made award winning beer, literally. I've only entered three beers in competition, but all three got medals. 1 third and 2 firsts.
The price is $2500 for everything.
Pictures can be seen on my photobucket account (hopefully). Disregard the third page, that is from my first beer a LONG time ago.
Everything is located in Charlotte NC
This is probably one of the most complete setups that you'll see for sale.
First, let me start by saying that I do not want to part this out. I'd like to get rid of it all at once.
Setup
I have an electric scale with detachable face for measuring out your grain. Once it's measured you can crush it with the Barley Crusher. It comes with the extended hopper. For your yeast, I have a 2000ml flask with a stir plate. I also have a box of mason jars for you can store and harvest your own yeast. Included with be a separate fridge/freezer combo that will allow you to store the yeast (along with beer) on the fridge side and store your bulk hops on the freezer side. There is also a small scale for measuring hops, sugar, ect.
Brewing
The stand and control panel are made out of wood. The top of the stand had tile on it, but I recently removed the tile, so it's just sitting on the wood again. It's got four heavy duty casters and is pretty easy to move around. There is also a ton of storage space under the stand. You can either stash supplies there, or you can put the kettles under there when you're done brewing. That's what I chose since I had painted by brewery logo on the tiles and wanted to show it off. :rockin:
The control panel has a key to turn it on and off.
There is a PID that controls the temp, and a switch to have the PID control one of the two 240V UL heating elements. The PID will also set off the alarm, which also has an on/off switch. Further, there are two switches for the two pumps, which can be run simultaneously. All of these switches have lights to indicate when they are in use.
The three kettles are all 15 gallon stainless steel and are bayou classics.
The HLT has one of the two heating elements as well as the temperature probe that is connected to the PID. The lid of the HLT has an immersion chiller connected to it. The wort pumps out of the mash tun and through the chiller which is emerged in the HLT whose temperature is controlled by the PID. Thus, the mash temp is regulated. Finally, there is a barb at the top, which allows you to circulate the water via a pump out the bottom and back through the top. This circulation prevents hot spots and gives a consistent temperature throughout.
The mash tun has a bazooka tube which works really well. I've never had a stuck mash and I'm glad I went with it. I use a piece of tubing to bring the wort back into the kettle from the immersion chiller so that it doesn't splash. For sparging, I have a sparge arm.
The boil kettle has the second 240v UL heating element. Since the PID can only be configured for one temperature probe, you use the power percentage mode on the PID for the boil kettle. I've just put it on 100% power until I achieved a boil, then lowered it back down. Once it's done, you pump it through the Shirron plate chiller and into the conical.
The wort is being move via the control panel, which has two march pumps connected to it. I've had them screwed into the stand upside down under the kettles, but have them off for now. There is also a timer with the option for having four simultaneous countdowns going on. To get gravity measurements I have a refractometer that gives the readout in gravity.
I have a few extra parts, like two spare 240v heating elements, some spare lights for the control panel, and a few other things.
Fermenting
I have a full size fridge w/ no freezer. Inside the fridge fits 1 15 gallon plastic conical with its metal stand. Now, I've never used this conical. The plan was to convert it using the methods from the epic thread on Homebrewtalk, but I never got around to it. There is also a dual stage temp controller (ST1000) that was never connected to the fridge that will keep your wort at the exact temperature that you want while the yeast turn it into delicious beer. There is also a nice little rack above the conical for storing beer, or yeast or whatever.
Also included will be three glass carboys. One is a 6.5 gallon, and I believe the other two are 5 gallon.
Serving
I have a Keezer with 4 Perlick taps. The tower is made out of PVC pipe and painted to match the rest of the freezer. The temperature is controlled by a analog controller, I believe a Johnson. For gas, I have a 5 gal CO2 tank with a dual regulator. I also have a splitter so the regulator can control two kegs. I have a spare dual regulator system and a single regulator as well.
I also have 9 ball lock corny kegs. The one with the green lid was used for root beer for my kids. I designated that one root beer since I've heard you can never really get the smell out... The freezer was painted a few years ago, and could really use a fresh coat.
If you wish to bottle some of your beer for either aging, bringing to a party, or for competition, I have a counter-pressure bottle filler to keep the foam down and the CO2 up.
Misc
I have kept my floating thermometers and other older equipment as backup, although I haven't needed it. There are quite a few gasket replacement kits for the kegs that I haven't needed yet, but will be included. I also have 15 or so white lab vials that you can turn in for some cool swag. And finally, I have what seems like miles of tubing, including hi temp stuff for use with the pumps. They have been hanging in my garage for quite a while, but I'll include it if you'd like.
Price
I'm sure that I'm forgetting a few things, but I will include all that I've listed, and anything else that I haven't as I find it. The system has made award winning beer, literally. I've only entered three beers in competition, but all three got medals. 1 third and 2 firsts.
The price is $2500 for everything.
Pictures can be seen on my photobucket account (hopefully). Disregard the third page, that is from my first beer a LONG time ago.
Everything is located in Charlotte NC
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