Colorado Brewing System Controller

[pinky1]

I have seen several people make comments in regards to this companies kettles but haven't seen anything on their controllers. Has anyone had experience with their controllers? Anyone have one and can let me know how its worked out for them? I had a disaster with a controller from kegkits....... No need to tell me how much of a mistake that was I AM WELL AWARE! Needless to say I am looking for a reliable option that is also cost effective. I am looking at the BrewMaster Mini 30A Controller.

http://www.cobrewingsystems.com/products/brewmaster-mini-30a-electric-brewery-control-system

I have also seen the controllers from High Gravity Brewing but I really like the look of the Colorado one.

Also if anyone else can think of any other options out there that would be greatly appreciated.

Looking to spend in the neighbourhood of 400-600 bucks.

Thanks guys.

Cheers.

 

[atoughram]

Holy ship.... $6 large for a single PID box? Dayum...

The other option would be to build it yourself for WAY less than half of that.

We can help...

 

[pinky1]

Well i don't know a whole lot about wiring or setting up my own controller but I am not opposed to it if I would be able to get step by step instructions or help along the way from someone who has done it successfully. Id be looking for a controller that would have a PID to control one output for the HTL and a controller that would control the power to the element in the boil kettle. Something on either a dial or a way to easily turn up and down the power to that element.

I am open to making one just not sure how to go about it. Would also need to be 240v if that makes a difference. HLT element is a 3500 watt element and kettle is a 5500.

Cheers

 

[Mojzis]

Pinky,

Anything is possible if you use your Brain. (see what I did there?)

I use 2 PID's (one for HLT, one RIMS), and a potentiometer/ssvr combo (dial) to control the boil. It was 270$ to build. For 600$ you can go with higher end electronics.

You should start reading through theelectricbrewery's (Kal's) website to get an idea of whats in store. He gives a step by step also.

This thread will inevitably have the diagram you want: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/list-pj-electrical-diagrams-382286/

240v would require a source. You can make use of a dryer or electric stove outlet with possibly a few modifications. Or you can have on installed.

Goodluck!

 

[jimbonnet]

Here is something that could help get you on your way:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEER-Brew-K...CLOSURE-300-X-250-X-200-12X10X8-/131397215329

Then check Auberins for the PID, I think the 2362 is about 50 bucks. All you need the PID is a sensor, some wire from your local hardware store and a couple plugs depending on the diagram you choose.

What I would do is add all the components up, factor in your time and see how DIY compares to 600$.

Brew on!
Jim

 

[augiedoggy]

I agree the Colorado panel is too expensive... high gravitys panel is very cheaply made with speaker wire and relays epoxied to the inside of the panel instead of proper ssr's from what I've been told by an owner in another thread. (I have asked for a picture of the inside of one of the high gravity panels more than a couple times and every time people stop posting? I guess they are afraid of what they might learn about the cary amount of money they spent...

I find as far as prebuilt panels Brumatuer has about the most professionally built system for the most reasonable prices. He is a member here and others have worked with him with great results. (for some reason I can never remember how to spell his name correctly)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beer-brewin...t=LH_DefaultDomain_2&var=&hash=item338ca0a6d5

 

[atoughram]

I find as far as prebuilt panels Brumatuer

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beer-brewin...t=LH_DefaultDomain_2&var=&hash=item338ca0a6d5

I just looked at his Ebay ad - he's in Bothell - my neck of the woods...

 

[atoughram]

HLT element is a 3500 watt element and kettle is a 5500.

Some differences between the circuits with different elements - different circuit breakers and #10 vs #12 wiring IIRC.

Not sure what you want to control, but the way I'd do it is PID control on the HLT and a SSVR on the kettle. In fact that's the way I designed my own system. Using the manual mode in a PID to control a boil kettle seems like a PITA. An SSVR is more akin to the propane valve - the more you crank it, the hotter it gets. Analog stuff rocks! :rockin:

 

[pinky1]

That Brumatic looks really interesting!