• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

CO2 regulator outlet pressure gauge not reacting to needle valve

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ickmund

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Messages
53
Reaction score
0
Hey brewers!

I just got my first couple of brews done, and am about to keg. When I bought my cornys, they were all out on co2 regulators, but I figured that wouldn't be too hard to find. Fast forward a couple of weeks and a lot of frustration, and I've now had to settle for a regulator made for aquarius use. (of course, as soon as I receive it, regulators are in stock everywhere again...)

Anyways, everything is assembled, I plug in my corny and turn on the gas and start turning the needle valve. It immediatly jumps to about 25 psi. Turning it back and forth does nothing. I hear the gas going into the keg, and after a few minutes it subsides. The gauge is still at 25 psi.

Anyone know how these things work? Have I gotten myself a faulty one, or do they just work differently somehow?

This will be some seriously over-carbonated beer...

Cheers for any and all advices!

/Magnus
 
What happens if you dial the reg back (counterclockwise) a few revs and purge the keg? Does the pressure drop and return to 25 as the CO2 re-enters the keg?
 
I usually keep the gas off so I don't lose a tank to a leak. You can always use the purge valve to release pressure, but approximating carbing, then pouring pressure is hit or miss.

Not familiar with your aquarium set-up; a picture might help.
 
You have some time before the beer absorbs too much CO2 but you want to get the pressure down fairly soon. Which specific regulator did you buy?
 
a needle value like the kind used for regulating a bubble bar? that will not really work.

the end of a bubble bar is essentially wide open (under water) the needle valve is just a valve! it slows down the the passage of the air so the volume of bubbles is slowed down.

you are using it in a confined space where it will charge up the headspace in the keg. it will come to whatever the pressure is very quickly and stay there. its not a regulator, unless I misunderstood your post
 
Wow, cheers for all the quick replies!

I'm starting to lean towards the fact that this valve is binary, despite seeing some youtube-vids of people adjusting the bubbles by it...

I've turned off the valve, and manually released some pressure. Since it's the first time kegging thou, I really have no idea what kind of pressure is still in there.

The gauge does not move when I rev it back and purge, no.

Since I bought this unit in slight panic, I figured it would be replaced eventually, so I don't mind buying a new, proper, one. But my plan was to use this one as a secondary, with a smaller flask. If this thing actually is on/off, it should be as easy as replacing the valve right?

Picture attached! This is a link to the product description of the unit: http://www.co2art.co.uk/products/dual-gauge-co2-regulator-aquarium

IMG_20140916_222045.jpg
 
Which valve are you actually turning? I believe the needle valve is on the side, correct? You would want to turn the valve on the front, with the 'CO2 Art' emblem. The needle valve is not regulated by the regulator itself, so you'll want that wide open.
 
Which valve are you actually turning? I believe the needle valve is on the side, correct? You would want to turn the valve on the front, with the 'CO2 Art' emblem. The needle valve is not regulated by the regulator itself, so you'll want that wide open.

Oh yeah, sorry about not mentioning that one. I was indeed referring to the smaller one on the side.

The big one does absolutely nothing that I can find out (hence not mentioning it). Now I had it tightly closed, but have had it wide open before. I did however test it more throughly now. I released pressure from the keg so that I hear the co2 going in, with the small valve fully open, and dialed the bigger one so far out it started to leak gas. Could not get the gauge below 20 psi.
 
Oh yeah, sorry about not mentioning that one. I was indeed referring to the smaller one on the side.

The big one does absolutely nothing that I can find out (hence not mentioning it). Now I had it tightly closed, but have had it wide open before. I did however test it more throughly now. I released pressure from the keg so that I hear the co2 going in, with the small valve fully open, and dialed the bigger one so far out it started to leak gas. Could not get the gauge below 20 psi.

You may already know this but its just an idea but if you already have pressure in the keg, adjusting the main valve will not really change the pressure across the regulator, you would need bleed the keg a bit.
 
You may already know this but its just an idea but if you already have pressure in the keg, adjusting the main valve will not really change the pressure across the regulator, you would need bleed the keg a bit.

Thanks, but yea, I bled it almost empty before testing.

Despite good advice here, I forgot to turn off the gas completely before going to bed. I only shut the valves on the regulator. This morning the tank was at 500psi.

So a new regulator has been ordered with express shipping, I'll try to figure out if I can do something with this one later I guess...

Thanks for all the tips, really nice to see as a new homebrewer!
 
Are ya' hip to how a regulator works?
The one you show, the big knob in the middle, is turned clockwise to increase secondary gauge pressure, counterclockwise to reduce it.

As mentioned, you'll need to bleed the pressure from the kegs when yo make a change, ( re: reduction in pressure), to see it quickly on the gauge.

That needle valve on the side, leave it full open, and be sure to check that area for leaks.

Start from scratch, back your regulator knob out, ( CCW), to reduce / stop the output across the regulator.
Bleed your keg.
Turn on your bottle, ( try all this before you buy a new bottle / fill!).
Start increasing your pressure slowly, ( big knob, CW, or "in), watch and listen!

If it's a regulator, it will regulate!
Just get busy leak checking before you waste another bottle.

It can be made to work without the needle valve, which it does not need.

I would keep it, since you have it already, and IF it works as a standard regulator.

Unless ya' just wanna' go through the hassle of e-Bayin' it, or CraigsList, or..........;)

Good luck with your kegging!
 
Back
Top