First could you tell us about your process? I have been using pressure but have yet to get a good process. Interested on what is working for you.
Now to your questions, you problem is the beer is likely 68F which means it will be very hard to pour without foam. Going from high pressure to low the CO2 will want to rush out of solution. This is only heightened as your get warmer. Other than cooling do the beer to 34F or going from high pressure to high pressure you will likely get foam.
Actually now that I think about it, if you used the method for filling bottles from a picnic tap (under pressure) then poured that sample to your measuring device it should work!
They are good for estimating finishing fermentation, but you need to get a hydro sample to get good numbers. They work great before fermentation starts though.
+1. After fermentation begins the refractometer never agrees with the hydrometer reading. It's close but not reliable.
To take a reading that uses almost 1% of your product, requires you to degas the sample is bordering on Luddite.
+1. .....I built an air lock from a water filter housing and cutoff part of a sanke dip tube.....
Crane
Great idea!
Do you find it "cleans" the co2 as it bubbles through the water?
I am dabbling into harvesting the co2 and looking at filtering techniques.
Tom
Homebeerbrewer:
If you get about 20psi in the head of the keg by the time you are done that should be about right.
By that time the beer will have some co2 dissolved and when you drop the temperature (close to freezing) the beer will begin to absorb the 20psi and the pressure will drop to below 10 in a few days.
This may not get you full carbonation but at least more than half done.
(I have a separate corny that I store the co2 in and then hook up during cooling, with a regulator set to about 8 psi to finish carbonating)
Tom
I believe the corny is basically inline between the fermenter and the spunding valve to store CO2 that can be recycled for use to add pressure back to the fermented/carbonating beer or be used to help pressure transfer from one container to the next or whatever else you would want to do with it. Essentially it would be 'free' CO2What does the addition of a corny keg do?
I finally got my pressurized fermentation system working. I have a hefeweizen under pressure right now. Looking at the carbonation charts, I should be at 60 psi for this beer at fermentation temp. Seems high to me. Any suggestions?
Edit: Here's a picture of my set up:
I am not following what you do. Is this a corny you have inline between the fermenter(s) and spunding valve?(I have a separate corny that I store the co2 in and then hook up during cooling, with a regulator set to about 8 psi to finish carbonating)
Tom
I could use some help with a simple question about this process. I went through the first 200 posts and cannot find a clear answer. I'm using 5 gal. corny kegs, ten gallon batches and plan to put the wort into three kegs.
I will put a spunding valve on the gas-in post. Leave it furment under pressure and here is where I get confused.
My current batches produce a fair amount of trub. I can't see how I can take a sample or transfer the beer through the small out post without completely clogging it. Or is that even an issue? I've seen comments that you have to draw off a couple pints to get to clear beer, but I haven't seen anyone say anything about problems getting the beer out. Does the trub actually just flow through the small out post?
I also see some are cutting their dip tubes shorter to avoid the trub, but then others say this isn't necessary.
Apologies if this has been covered, but if you can, what's the scoop?
I don't use Corny's, but I'll try to answer your question...
I think you're going to have problems with what you've described. Spunding through the gas post may clog, and could over-pressure and kill your yeast.
Using the standard dip tube will clog too. Some guys use a shortened dip tube without control of how deep the dip tube is into the trub.
I could use some help with a simple question about this process. I went through the first 200 posts and cannot find a clear answer. I'm using 5 gal. corny kegs, ten gallon batches and plan to put the wort into three kegs.
I will put a spunding valve on the gas-in post. Leave it furment under pressure and here is where I get confused.
My current batches produce a fair amount of trub. I can't see how I can take a sample or transfer the beer through the small out post without completely clogging it. Or is that even an issue? I've seen comments that you have to draw off a couple pints to get to clear beer, but I haven't seen anyone say anything about problems getting the beer out. Does the trub actually just flow through the small out post?
I also see some are cutting their dip tubes shorter to avoid the trub, but then others say this isn't necessary.
Apologies if this has been covered, but if you can, what's the scoop?
OnNe more question . . . what is the best way to oxegenate the wort before (or when) you put it into the fermenter. Right now I either shake the glass carboy or run small pump with a stone on the end inserted into the wort.
OnNe more question . . . what is the best way to oxegenate the wort before (or when) you put it into the fermenter. Right now I either shake the glass carboy or run small pump with a stone on the end inserted into the wort.
Maybe the best way is to use pure oxygen. You can get the cheap oxygen tanks at just about any hardware store.
I'm about to give this method a try.
The plan is to use a 2nd corney to make up for the lack of head space. (with fermcap) Should I seal everything up with co2 or let it naturally carb seal?
It depends on your kegs. All my corneys I bought used and need to be hit with at least 15psi while I pull up on the lid handle to get them to settle into position where they will seal. If I just close the lid and apply 10psi I will end up with a leak.
Ever try keg lube? I slap some of that on and close the lid, then pump CO2 in. Never have a leak.