clarity
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Probably the hops.It could be something you use in the ipa by coincidence also. Make shure you get a good hot break.Do you get your wort cool pretty quickly?
I find mine eventually clear with more time. Surprisingly some of my beers with a good amount of wheat too.
I find mine eventually clear with more time. Surprisingly some of my beers with a good amount of wheat too.
I haven't been cold crashing every other beer I have made clears just fine I just transfered an ipa today and it is really cloudy I am dry hopping with cascade so I don't know if I should cold crash yet. How much of a difference does cold crashing make?
It also depends on how long the beer sits before bottling it. Time is your friend here. Plus plenty of time conditioning in the bottles before initial fridge time. But as was alluded to,chilling the hot wort asap also helps reduce chill haze. I also pour my chilled wort & top off water through a fine mesh strainer to aerate it & get out some extra gunk.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I think it also has a good amount to do with how much hops you're dry hopping with, and if it's whole hops or pellets. I've found that 3oz in a 5-6 gallon batch makes it more cloudy than 1oz in the same batch size. That's with whole hops. I have a batch in keg, almost ready for serving, that used 2oz of whole hops. It will be interesting to see how that is in glass.
I don't cold crash my batches. The closest I come is when the kegs go into the brew fridge. Of course, I'm using highly (or very high) flocculating rated yeast strains (all Wyeast)...
I don't cold crash my batches. The closest I come is when the kegs go into the brew fridge. Of course, I'm using highly (or very high) flocculating rated yeast strains (all Wyeast)...
unionrdr said:
I don't have a sort chiller I use ice baths and deep freezer combo I will ice bath it until the temp doesn't drop anymore usually about ninety degrees. Then I drop it into a deep freezer and drop it to pitching temp. It takes some time but it is the best I can do right now. I have done this with smaller hop bills and still have gotten clear brew
beerman0001
Well-Known Member
How long was this one in the primary for?
When I ice bath my hot wort,I put it in a sink of just cold water till the water starts getting warm. Then drain it,& fill the empty space around the kettle to the top with ice,then top that off with water. Gets down to pitch temp in 20 minutes.
I dry hopped my IPA with 1.5oz of hops,& they'd be pretty clear. Just a slight hop haze. I have 1 pic of it in my gallery. Midwest says the WLP051 Cali ale yeast from Northern Cali is fruitier than the regular Cali ale yeast, & is more flocculant With lower attenuation. It states that flocculation is medium-high. I was thinking maybe it didn't settle out as much,combined with hop haze.
I dry hopped my IPA with 1.5oz of hops,& they'd be pretty clear. Just a slight hop haze. I have 1 pic of it in my gallery. Midwest says the WLP051 Cali ale yeast from Northern Cali is fruitier than the regular Cali ale yeast, & is more flocculant With lower attenuation. It states that flocculation is medium-high. I was thinking maybe it didn't settle out as much,combined with hop haze.
I just added the dry hop right before I took the picture it is so cloudy I can't see through it. Will letting it sit in secondary help it clear with the hops in it or will I just have to deal with the cloudy beer. The recipe wants me to dry hop for a week what will happen if I dry hop longer then that?
beerman0001
Well-Known Member
It will clear with time. Next time let it sit in primary for at least 2 weeks.
aug0202 said:
The sg showed that you could transfer, not that you needed to transfer. I battle cloudy beer on all of my hoppy stuff too. Current process leaves beer In primary for 4-5 wks, then dry hop in the primary (i use a hop bag to help with particulates) a weekish before I'm ready to bottle.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
Because you don't need to... IF you want to, then go ahead. But it's really just more work (insert additional risks from racking here) for you. I've had great results with each batch that has been dry hopped in primary.
beerman0001
Well-Known Member
I let mine clear in primary then transfer to secondary to dry hop. To me the hop aroma comes out more pronounced when I get it off the yeast cake.
beerman0001
Well-Known Member
Yes. Alot of diffrent opinions out there on how log is too long though. I have not gone longer then 2 weeks and that was fine.
BrewThruYou
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't talk in such absolutes. There's plenty of very respected brewers that talk highly of the advantages of taking the beer off the yeast cake before dryhopping. And all commercial breweries will drop out the yeast before dryhopping as well. In Russian River's dryhopping schedule, they say there is a "direct correlation on more aroma and less yeast in solution when dry
hopping." Stolen from this article: http://destroy.net/brewing/IIPA.pdf
In the end, it's up to the individual brewer to decide what's best for them.
It's always up to the brewer to decide on his/her own style/process. That said, the quote above says nothing about racking off of the yeast cake, rather talks of getting the yeast out of solution. All the yeast in the cake is already out of solution whether the beer is racked or not. My comment earlier in the thread states that I leave in the primary for ~5wks, this allows more yeast to drop out (if I had a fridge I would cold crash before dry hopping, which would knock even more out of solution).
interesting paper.
