• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Check out this Stainless Conical Fermenter

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I've read their site and it don't say where the stuff is made, unless I missed it. I like the looks of their stuff. Really like the looks of their kettle's. Be nice to know if they are made in USA,
 
I've read their site and it don't say where the stuff is made, unless I missed it. I like the looks of their stuff. Really like the looks of their kettle's. Be nice to know if they are made in USA,

Considering the owner said* the factory was off for Chinese new-year, I'm guessing they are made in China.

(*I emailed about some possible modifications and that was in his answer.)
 
Ordered my 7.3g without thermowell yesterday! I can't wait! Getting tired of the carboys.
 
Without being any kind of a jerk........can I ask why everyone is so excited about this guys equipment?

The kettle is nothing more then a keegle. If you like the cone shaped bottom, then don't put in a dip tube. IIRC the dimensions are even close to a keegle.

Short of the fermentors being polished (poorly IMO) they don't even have sanitary ball valves. Also IIRC they are twice the cost of a mini brew conical. I am sorry I just don't understand why everyone is excited over this equipment. The welds IMO look like sh#$.




Please understand I am not bashing in any way here. I just would like to know. Maybe I should get into the business.


Edit: At these prices are they even passivated? Or is it just a shop welding these things up and then throwing on a polish job?
 
Without being any kind of a jerk........can I ask why everyone is so excited about this guys equipment?

The kettle is nothing more then a keegle. If you like the cone shaped bottom, then don't put in a dip tube. IIRC the dimensions are even close to a keegle.

Short of the fermentors being polished (poorly IMO) they don't even have sanitary ball valves. Also IIRC they are twice the cost of a mini brew conical. I am sorry I just don't understand why everyone is excited over this equipment. The welds IMO look like sh#$.




Please understand I am not bashing in any way here. I just would like to know. Maybe I should get into the business.


Edit: At these prices are they even passivated? Or is it just a shop welding these things up and then throwing on a polish job?


I think there are two different suppliers discussed in this thread. Which are you talking about
 
This looks like a Keggle to you?


brew-kettle-226x300.jpg
 
This looks like a Keggle to you?


brew-kettle-226x300.jpg


Yep. Look at the dimensions and the capacity of it. Heck look at the bottom. This easily could be done with a keegle.

Edit: Fact is you get better capacity out of a keggle.
 
I really don't see what you are seeing.

I own a fairly modified keggle and I am in contact with John about buying one of his kettles.

First off, the kettle is 19.2 gallons of capacity. It has a deeper domed bottom than a keggle. He offers a tangential whirlpool inlet.

All his connections to the kettle do not contain threads. His piping to valves are far enough away from the kettle to avoid being damaged by direct heat from a burner.

The items are made in China and imported to this country. He may be able to have a kettle custom built, but it will take a lot of time.

If you can build a similar item for a similar price, I would be interested in talking to you.
 
OK. I can't argue the points you make. Obviously they are comparable if not the same. But IMHO this looks way better than a Keggle.

Smooth sides, nice handles, no cutout on top.

One thing I have not heard about these though is the thickness of the metal. I'd guess that a Keggle would win on that point.

On a side note. I am considering the 19.8 gal. a bit more volume than a Keggle.

Unless you will make me something better. I have seen your work and am truly impressed. Would love to have a set of pots made by you.
 
I really don't see what you are seeing.

I own a fairly modified keggle and I am in contact with John about buying one of his kettles.

First off, the kettle is 19.2 gallons of capacity. It has a deeper domed bottom than a keggle. He offers a tangential whirlpool inlet.

All his connections to the kettle do not contain threads. His piping to valves are far enough away from the kettle to avoid being damaged by direct heat from a burner.

The items are made in China and imported to this country. He may be able to have a kettle custom built, but it will take a lot of time.

If you can build a similar item for a similar price, I would be interested in talking to you.

I see 9.2 not 19.2. A sanitary fitting or sanitary nipple can be had easy. If a 19.2 gallon kettle by John has a deeper bottom it is cause it hold more. If a burner has enough gumption then any fitting is in danger. Again, I am not out to bash anyone here. Not even close. I just don't see the difference.

OK. I can't argue the points you make. Obviously they are comparable if not the same. But IMHO this looks way better than a Keggle.

Smooth sides, nice handles, no cutout on top.

One thing I have not heard about these though is the thickness of the metal. I'd guess that a Keggle would win on that point.

On a side note. I am considering the 19.8 gal. a bit more volume than a Keggle.

Unless you will make me something better. I have seen your work and am truly impressed. Would love to have a set of pots made by you.

IIRC the thickness falls around .040-.045". The same as a keg. This is one of the reasons I can't fathom the fascination with them. Everything seems to fall in the same line as a keggle.

Does smooth sides really matter in the function of the kettle? As for built in handles... I would much rather have some, that don't protrude from the sides. A cut out top.......Do you really plan on using a lid during the boil? Do you really want DMS in your beer?

As for the mash tun.....I have cut, as I am sure others have cut the tops off of keggles that eliminate the top and allow full diameter to the bottom. Now I will admit that there is a small diameter difference in a keegle in the various spots. For instance the area where the "bead" is formed is a bit smaller in diameter then the center in between the beads. However if this is planned for then the false bottom will fit and preform just fine.

As far as you and me doing business on a set of pots. Bring it on friend. I will let you know up front. I am just a weldor. I have no means of forming or rolling material. That will need to be farmed out. All I have is a very old welding machine and a couple of purge tanks.
 
You have any ideas? I'm looking for something better than Keggles.

From what I've seen so far, for the money these would be hard to beat.

You ask the question yet you avoid mine.

I would agree that for the money this SS option is hard to beat but, from a money vs usability stand point......I don't see the benefits. Plus the quality. Now maybe I am just bi-est in the quality dept, but fusion welds are easy to come by IMO. I love my plastic conical's and with oxy-clean I don't have to touch them. Less money and they weigh less, along with less of a temp swing due to conductivity. As far as ideas go, what did you have in mind? IIRC, when you double the diameter of a cylinder, you quadruple the volume.
 
I have one of these Kettles. it's 9.2 gal, nice cone at the bottom to whirlpool in and the outlet is above so as to not draw trube yet drain fully.

Connections and welds are fantastic! No cleaning issues.

With the extra welded bottom ring, heating on a burner is fast and efficient. The flame wraps the cone and even heat applied and captured nicely by the sides.

It's smaller than a Keggle. But perfect for 5/6 gal finnish batches.

Now if I could just afford one or more of his conicle fermenters...:cross::cross: they are lovely!

But to be honest, what ever set up works for you, if you are able to make good beer... well it doesn't mater what you brew in.

Cheers :mug:
 
I'll be right back with the link to the thread where I found this. The guy is a member here, he joined during this thread.



Here is a clipping from it by him about the thickness. 1mm is .03937" So 1.2x.039=.0468"

"The thickness of the conical tanks and brew kettles (7.3/14.5 gallon and 9.3 gallon sizes) are 1.2 mm. Other features have thicker material as required".



Edit: here is that link.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/stainless-conicals-oregon-150072/
 
Warning Thread Hijack - well not really, its still about conicals, just not this one.

Admit I did not do a search, but was wondering if anyone can comment on the "ultimate" conical fermenter from B3 - the one with 2 jackets cooling contraptions that can cool to 50 degrees below ambient temp?
Was thinking about buying one (ok dreaming about buying one).

TD
 
Warning Thread Hijack - well not really, its still about conicals, just not this one.

Admit I did not do a search, but was wondering if anyone can comment on the "ultimate" conical fermenter from B3 - the one with 2 jackets cooling contraptions that can cool to 50 degrees below ambient temp?
Was thinking about buying one (ok dreaming about buying one).

TD

Sure, what do you want to know about them?
 
I got my conical like this one last night. Look great! Unfortunately it'll be a few weeks before I get to use it.
 
Jason-

I see you are affiliated with the B3 site? I was sort of looking for unbiased opinions of folks who actually have that ultimate conical. THe added cost I think offsets the cost of an extra fridge to some degree. In order for me to brew lagers, I need a conical and a fridge or a refrigerated conical. I've tried in my mini fridge with temp control and the break material during lagering always gets mixed up when I move the carboy around to rack. I've bought some carboy caps that can be used to force rack, though I am reluctant to use them for this for fear that I might accidentally overpressure the carboy and it'll blow up. Anyway, the Conical would probably be inthe garage and it gets up to 100 degree during summer in there, here in Florida.

You have any references that I could speak with or email about their experience with the conical?
 
TD - yeah I am the manager for the MoreBeer side of things, and I happen to own a heated/cooled conical, but I would guess you would rather talk to a non-employee about it :)

Let me poke around and see if I can find anyone I know that I can ask that. I'll let you know in a bit
 
I've bought some carboy caps that can be used to force rack, though I am reluctant to use them for this for fear that I might accidentally overpressure the carboy and it'll blow up.

Just FYI, this is exactly what I do. I start with 0psi and slowly increase till flow starts. I'm never over 2psi, usually under. Chances of breaking the carboy are slim at that pressure.
 
Without being any kind of a jerk........can I ask why everyone is so excited about this guys equipment?

It's shiny. It's expensive. This is America.

Seriously, I don't know what he's going to do with it without
a walk-in fridge to go with it. Or maybe another $3,000 on
a glycol cooling jacket?

Ray
 
Im not promoting this specific conical - but you do realize that you can fit conicals into a normal stand-up freezer that can be had brand new for ~$400.

Add a temp controller and you might be around $500. And if you have the patience, get the freezer on craigslist for a fraction of the price.

A 42g conical can fit into most 20-21cuft stand up freezers.

It's shiny. It's expensive. This is America.

Seriously, I don't know what he's going to do with it without
a walk-in fridge to go with it. Or maybe another $3,000 on
a glycol cooling jacket?

Ray
 
Back
Top