OK, I've read through a lot of information on the caveats around using refractometers once fermentation has started (material here as well as in a bunch of other places). I fairly recently began using one, and I'm experiencing something odd that I can't find an explanation for. I think I've narrowed down what's going on, but would appreciate thoughts on my line of reasoning here. If nothing else, this will let me vent a little.
I'm fermenting a wine at the moment (William's Brewing 3-gallon California Cabernet concentrate kit). When I mixed everything up, I took a refractometer reading of 21 Brix/1.083 SG. I realize there are variations in the correlation between brix/SG depending on the exact calculator/scale you use, but this seemed reasonable and the SG was in the range that SG for wines could fall into. Note that I did not do a hydrometer reading to corroborate at this point - but I was confident based on the times I've used the refractometer so far, so didn't want to pull the big sample.
I'm now a couple of weeks into the fermentation - I took a refractometer reading and got 13 Brix, which based on the Northern Brewer calculator put me around 1.030 SG. In my further investigation, nearly every other online calculator I've tried puts me around the same calculated SG with the 21 brix starting point and 13 brix current reading. For a couple of reasons, I was a little suspicious of that - so, I went ahead and took a sample with a hydrometer and got an SG of 1.017, which from what I can tell is pretty far outside the variation that the calculators would usually expect. So, in trying to figure out what's going on, I've take the following steps:
I guess the moral of the story is to not start your wine-making process late at night, very carefully read your refractometer, and double check the readings at least once before writing them down!
I'm fermenting a wine at the moment (William's Brewing 3-gallon California Cabernet concentrate kit). When I mixed everything up, I took a refractometer reading of 21 Brix/1.083 SG. I realize there are variations in the correlation between brix/SG depending on the exact calculator/scale you use, but this seemed reasonable and the SG was in the range that SG for wines could fall into. Note that I did not do a hydrometer reading to corroborate at this point - but I was confident based on the times I've used the refractometer so far, so didn't want to pull the big sample.
I'm now a couple of weeks into the fermentation - I took a refractometer reading and got 13 Brix, which based on the Northern Brewer calculator put me around 1.030 SG. In my further investigation, nearly every other online calculator I've tried puts me around the same calculated SG with the 21 brix starting point and 13 brix current reading. For a couple of reasons, I was a little suspicious of that - so, I went ahead and took a sample with a hydrometer and got an SG of 1.017, which from what I can tell is pretty far outside the variation that the calculators would usually expect. So, in trying to figure out what's going on, I've take the following steps:
- Calibrated the refractometer and two floating hydrometers with distilled water and a 1.040 known gravity sugar solution - they all matched readings.
- Both hydrometers agree with 1.017 on the sample.
- Took additional readings on new samples of the wine with the refractometer (including the sample used for the hydrometer reading of 1.015) - all of them were consistent at ~13 brix.
- Sanitized and added a Tilt to the fermentation vessel - it agreed with the 1.017 reading.
- Experimented with wort correction factors and ranges of brix readings (+/- .5 for the original and new readings) in a variety of calculators to see if there were scenarios that would get me to 1.017. In short, I couldn't really come up with any (more on this in a moment).
I guess the moral of the story is to not start your wine-making process late at night, very carefully read your refractometer, and double check the readings at least once before writing them down!