Cheap eBIAB Stand W/ Integrated Power Concept

[Novesette]

That's the idea. You just need a way to keep it sufficiently protected from liquids.

My idea before this was to make a mobile panel stand of sorts, just mount the spa panel to some 2x4s like this and feed it with sjoow extension cord.

Couldn't I also mount the GFCI panel on the wall and run the dryer plug extension cord to that? Then just plug in my 240 heating element into the GFCI box on the wall (basement) and run it down into the kettle? I'd need something to put the kettle on but having the GFCI box on the all reduces the issue of protecting it from spills. I don't need any other plugs close to the kettle. I run an immersion coil chiller, mash in a cooler. I'm just looking for a cheap way to avoid propane (I use it to roast coffee beans but it's a pain in rear to brew in the cold winters in PA).

Conversely, I guess I could run a 120v Hot Rod heat stick from the GFCI outlet near my gas range (on 20amp) and that combined with the range should get me kinda close with 6-7 gallon boils (my range alone does well with 3.5-4 gallon boils in 5 gallon kettles now). But I'm worried I'll spend the money and the find it will take way, way longer to get a decent boil with the range + 120v coil combo so I'm looking for a cheap way into a 240 setup.

Do I need a controller if I'm just worried about getting my wort boiling?

I'm really looking for the easiest and cheapest way to get indoors and off of propane without changing my process (which I enjoy immensely as it is, I do 3-4 brew 8-10 hour brew days for fun lol).

 

[thekraken]

If you mount it to the wall you lose the flexibility that the thread is going for. Also, I'll let the electrical engineers chime in with their opinion on that, I think once you attach it to the building you need to follow building codes or something to that effect.

I have seen people mount their 240v outlet inside their spa panel.

Yes, you will need some way to regulate the temperature, a 5 gallon batch at 5500 watts for example would boil way to hard, you could get a smaller element but then it would take longer to get up to temp.

Google search the "Still Dragon" controller, a controller won't get simpler and cheaper than that.

Another option for you is you could put two 120v / 1500 watt elements in your pot and just make sure you use 2 different 120v gfci circuits. This thread would be very helpful https://goo.gl/images/EGy3Fp

 

[Novesette]

If you mount it to the wall you lose the flexibility that the thread is going for. Also, I'll let the electrical engineers chime in with their opinion on that, I think once you attach it to the building you need to follow building codes or something to that effect.

I have seen people mount their 240v outlet inside their spa panel.

Yes, you will need some way to regulate the temperature, a 5 gallon batch at 5500 watts for example would boil way to hard, you could get a smaller element but then it would take longer to get up to temp.

Google search the "Still Dragon" controller, a controller won't get simpler and cheaper than that.

Another option for you is you could put two 120v / 1500 watt elements in your pot and just make sure you use 2 different 120v gfci circuits. This thread would be very helpful https://goo.gl/images/EGy3Fp

Sorry, my bad for the thread drift. It looks like the math says a 1500w element gets me 5115 btus...and with a 5000 btu range (conservative though I will measure), I'm over 10,000 BTUs which would be about the same as two 1500w elements(and should get me tap to strike and strike to boil in a reasonable amount of time).

1 1500w element them should be fine with my range. In any event, from a hardware standpoint (since I'm selling the house) it would be a better return on investment to install a new 10k BTU cooktop than to run a 240 GFCI as the $ is similar short term. When we move though, I may go all-in on electric as it seems like the best choice.


Thanks for the thread link!

 

[thekraken]

So I was just given this aluminum checkered plate. My plans might be changing dramatically.

View attachment 1509125379696.jpg

 

[BrunDog]

Ding ding ding... upgrade!

 

[BeardedBrews]

@brundog, a little off topic: I know you run a 240v rims, what wattage? Do you run it at 240v during the mash or 120v? And what's your minimum flow rate you shoot for if your mashing at 240v?

Now that you've dropped an Arduino into the mix it seems like you might want to move to powered relays instead of the DPDT switch. These SPDT relays always seemed like an inexpensive and attractive option.

If you don't want to add the complexity of relays you could consider a rotary switch in place of that Bryant 3025:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IS7SN2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It gives the look of the fancy panel selectors without the price and complexity

 

[thekraken]

I do appreciate the suggestion, but I've gone back to the non-rims tube approach. KISS.

I'm only using the arduino because I have a dozen of the $2 Chinese knock offs and esp8266's and pots from ebay laying around and Auber wanted something like another 10 for the rheostat version of their ssvr. That irked me.