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jdgabbard

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Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
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Location
Tulsa
I've been looking at upgrading my system for a while now, and moving from the kitchen stove to a electric system. So I have been comparing components and the advantages/disadvantages to them.

Upon a quick google search for PID I ran across this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331324039787

Now I seem to remember reading a thread or two a while back that stated these just wouldn't work. But I don't remember why, or if this was even the same product.

Now the system I am thinking about building is a circulating mash tun, either RIMS or HERMS (haven't decided yet), and an electric kettle, both with Thermowells for the sensors.. I know that however I do this, I'll need at least two PID or the cheap ebay STC-1000s. However I'm not sure the STC is up to the job of using for the Mash/Boil. I see most people using them for Fermentation. Which I don't have the space for that, yet.

This has made me think that a PID is probably the way to go. However, the Auber units look pretty pricy. So I wondered of there were other, read cheaper, products out there that would do the job.

I did some searching, but I think my working of search terms is leading me astray. Anyone have any experience with these, I know someone has tried them....


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Mypin TA4's - there are many threads related to them and they will work fine for RIMS/HERMS. Search through the archives.
 
I use 3 mypin controllers and they work great, the TN4 series is better then the "Ta" series because the "TN" series have the manual mode which can be used to fine tune the boil control I have both series controllers and otherwise they both work the same and are easy to use once you learn how the programming and control works.
the last number is the model name is the size of the unit (example the ta7 has a larger face than the ta4 and requires a larger cutout but this is nice if your eyes arent as good... I have both sizes in my panel since I learned this the hard way.)

just search "mypin" and it should bring up many threads on the subject.
also just a suggestion but go with the pt100 rtd sensors for temp... you can get the 1/2" npt connestion ones with built in disconnects for easy unplugging and claening for about $22 shipped now on ebay...I just ordered 2.
 
Let me ask you a question then. I am thinking about going with duel 4500w elements for the boil kettle, run at 120v. Is it possible to run two SSRs of a single MyPin so that they both kick on at the same time?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Let me ask you a question then. I am thinking about going with duel 4500w elements for the boil kettle, run at 120v. Is it possible to run two SSRs of a single MyPin so that they both kick on at the same time?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
im not positive if you can directly but you can certianly get a quad ssr and use that like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TELEDYNE-RE...152?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d4e630a98

its essentually four relays in one and while it does have four separate sets of pins for control I thing you can control bide sides easily with the voltage from one pid (it may even have a jumper mode for this. (the wires for the pid control go on the pin connectors in the center...)
at the very least you can use the pid to control an ssr which can then control multiple ssr's
 
Hrm, interesting. What type of temp sensor are you using?


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Oh, ok. I just assumed you were using something other than those now, since you stayed you just ordered two...


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5-7gal boils. I did the math, 68-165 it'll take about 45mins. 160-Boil it'll take about 35mins. I'm ok with that considering it'll take and hour on the kitchen stove for 3.5gal.

I'd like I go higher in watts, but it's not in the cards. Where I'll be brewing , garage , only has a 30a breaker which is shared with another bedroom. Not to mention the family chest freezer.... So keeping the amps low is imperative.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Yeah, as much as I believe I'll be loosing. But even still, if it takes it an hour to boil, I'd be ok with that. But quite frankly, I see 5gal going from 160-212 to be faster than 3.5gal from 68-212 on a stove top. So anyway you cut it it is an improvement. And I can always upgrade later. If I end up installing a dedicated 240v line in the garage.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Time to boil is one concern, boil is another? I have reservations that the boil at only 2250w may be a little weak.
That's all, 2 @ 5500w on 120v would squeak you another 500w which would help greatly IMHO.

The elements aren't that expensive, only about $10 so not a big deal...maybe one 4500, one 5500?

Sorry if this comes off as a doubting Thomas
 
Well, I tend to agree that it'll be weaker than I want. But honestly it's the only option I have at the moment. The wiring won't handle a larger breaker I don't believe. And the kitchen is off limits for a larger build. So I'm either stuck on the stove top, or I have room to grow in the garage. I'm thinking about having the dedicated 240v 50a line put in. But I tend to believe it'll be fairly expensive. So until I can afford it I'm going to have to work with what I have.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I use 3 mypin controllers and they work great, the TN4 series is better then the "Ta" series because the "TN" series have the manual mode which can be used to fine tune the boil control I have both series controllers and otherwise they both work the same and are easy to use once you learn how the programming and control works.
the last number is the model name is the size of the unit (example the ta7 has a larger face than the ta4 and requires a larger cutout but this is nice if your eyes arent as good... I have both sizes in my panel since I learned this the hard way.)

just search "mypin" and it should bring up many threads on the subject.
also just a suggestion but go with the pt100 rtd sensors for temp... you can get the 1/2" npt connestion ones with built in disconnects for easy unplugging and claening for about $22 shipped now on ebay...I just ordered 2.

Please pardon,
Is the TD4 the same as the TN4?
Can you link the probes with disconnects?
 
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