Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[mejtkt]

Baldy246 what directions did you follow?

 

[Baldy246]

The ones at the beginning of the thread. Only difference is I used more washers on the outside to achieve clearance from the body of the cooler. I think on one I used 5 and the other 4.

 

[skepace]

Any way to use ½ inch ball valve? I have a lot of those already.

 

[barrooze]

Any way to use ½ inch ball valve? I have a lot of those already.

All my plumbing is 1/2". The biggest concern is the size of the hole in the cooler. If you already own the cooler, remove the spigot and measure the hole. See if a 1/2" nipple pipe can go through. If not, see if you can open the hole to fit the larger pipe.

As for the rest of the parts, just use the 1/2" counterpart. Obviously, try putting them together before purchasing to make sure all fits well (washers included).

Good luck!

 

[markpace]

Just used these instructions to make a 5 gallon mush tun. Worked perfectly. The one thing that bothered me is that the whole thing will rotate a little when opening or closing the valve one handed. But it doesn't leak, so no big deal.

Thanks for the pictures and most importantly the part numbers. Even with them it took me quite a while at Home Depot to find what I needed.

 

[markpace]

When I was doing a test to see what volume of wort I'm going to lose I found out that when I went to push the drain tube on the ball valve that the whole thing could move enough to leak. So I went to Lowe's, Home Depot did not have any more 5/8 fender washers. Apparently these are actually kind of scarce because Lowe's didn't have them wither. So what I got was a 5/8 runner washer, it is quite big. 2 1/2 by 1/8. I put this between the 3 fender washers and the cooler and tightened it up. Now the ball valve does not move at all when I'm opening and closed the valve and I don't seem to have any issues with leaks.

 

[Sunward33]

Hey FlyGuy, I know its been a long time since you posted those instructions, but just in case you're still out there, thanks for the photos and parts list. I built a 5 gallon mash tun this last weekend and will christen it next weekend with a chocolate coconut stout. Everything fit perfectly and no leakage. Can wait to brew!

 

[jcom87]

I read this post a while ago and finally got around to making it. The instructions were crystal clear and gathering the material/assembling it was starting to seem like it was going to be a breeze. Where I ran into problems was screwing in the ball valve. Like many others I found it was extremely loose, so I sought out to space it with some washers. Then I went further in the thread and saw people were having issues with the SS hose clamps, so I threw that in the back of my mind. Then I saw multiple posts about how the screen flattens like a pancake, so I looked for some springs to put inside to make it more solid. Another thing I noticed from reading was that many ball vavles have some kind of grease to lubricate it, and I don't want that in my batch.
Finally I said enough is enough and I took a trip to my LHBS. After talking to the owner for a while I came to the realization that I just need to do this the proper way, bite the bullet, and spend a few extra bucks.
I was much more satisfied with the results. I picked up a bulkhead valve with a barb adapter, a nipple and lock nuts with built in o-rings, and a torpedo tube that came with a threaded coupling to connect it to the nipple.
It all went together nicely but I did a leak test and was getting a few drips. I decided to then modify my build a little, adding a few washers to make a tighter fit. The downside is the area around the hole in the cooler is too small for the washer, so my solution was to use the side of a step bit to widen that area slightly to make a tight fit.
After another leak test I noticed it was tight, but there was a very small leak coming from the connection between the bulkhead and the lock nut. So now I need to throw a little seal on that, so I'm thinking maybe a little bead of duct seal or something and she'll be nice and tight. What do you all think? Here are some pictures of where I'm at now. Notice the plastic around the bulkhead isn't perfect after I widened it, but it still works.

View attachment 1429669847708.jpg

View attachment 1429669948841.jpg

 

[shigadeyo]

Has anybody seen any deals lately on 10 gallon Igloo water coolers. The cheapest that I have found is $50+tax at Lowe's. After adding the cost of a false bottom and all the fittings, it's just as cheap or cheaper to buy a pre-made mash tun from BREW International, Midwest Supplies, etc. What am I missing as it just seems that the cooler cost has gone up dramatically over the years.

 

[msa8967]

Has anybody seen any deals lately on 10 gallon Igloo water coolers. The cheapest that I have found is $50+tax at Lowe's. After adding the cost of a false bottom and all the fittings, it's just as cheap or cheaper to buy a pre-made mash tun from BREW International, Midwest Supplies, etc. What am I missing as it just seems that the cooler cost has gone up dramatically over the years.

If you want to safe on the building cost of a mashtun instead of buying a premade system with a false bottom just convert a rectangular cooler that has a drain plug using a ball valve and a piece of stainless steel braided hose. To improve the filtering of the grain cut the end off of a voile curtain and use it as a sleeve/sock over hose braid. Secure the end closest to the ball valve with a zip tie and either sew the other end shut, tie it in a knot or secure it from opening with a zip tie. The voile cloth is the same material that is used in the brew in a bag system and is perfectly safe to use in mashing. You can buy a panel at Walmart for $5 or find one in a thrift shop. Try to use white color cloth and boil prior to first use. With this single layer voile cloth screen I have never had grain particles in my wort and never had a stuck mash.

If you want to stay with the circular drink cooler idea you can have Weisenbrewer make you a voile cloth bag to fit the inside of the cooler and still use the stainless steel braided hose. I have made over 50 mashtuns with this system for members of the brew club and general public. Only one came back to me because they decided they wanted to go bigger in size. The insulation helps make the deal of the empty space of the cooler a non-issue. Many of the mashtuns I have built only lose 1-2 F for a 90 minute mash. I am only giving you this as a possible alternative to doing the traditional false bottom method. I started with the false bottom idea and then eventually moved toward doing this as I became more experienced with brewing.

I have found used coolers in good shape for $5-10 on Craig's list or at thrift stores. The other parts can be bought for less than $30. I add some foam insulation (Great Stuff) to the inside of the lid by drilling small holes on the outside of the lid and filling this with insulation. Be very careful not to overfill (fill about 1/2 the space and spritz some water in there at first to help the foam cure.) You can buy screw caps for bookshelves to cover the end of the screws if you like after the insulation has cured. I use a silicon based adhesive or a gel type glue to secure them in place.

 

[signpost]

I built my mash tun based on info from this thread and I've been super happy with it. But here are a couple thoughts I'd pass on to anybody looking to build one of these.

1) Use actual real stainless steel washers on the inside of the mash tun. I couldn't find actual stainless steel and the washers I used worked fine, but have eventually corroded enough that I'm ordering new real stainless steel washers from Bolt Depot. I haven't noticed anything terrible in the beers I've brewed, but it sure doesn't look like anything I want beer hanging out in.

2) Use a stainless steel braid from a water heater supply instead of the toilet supply hoses. Every person I know of that has complained about their stainless steel braid getting smashed or letting grain husks through has used the toilet supply hose. The water heater supply hoses are heavier duty and just the right length.

If you are doing a batch sparge their is absolutely no reason for the braid to be any more than a few inches. And I'm not sure that fact changes if you do a fly sparge. People say it makes a difference. I don't believe them and have never seen anything other than opinions to back it up. The water heater supply hoses are plenty long to reach from the ball valve all the way across the middle of the mash tun. That is plenty. AND they are strong enough not to get crushed by the weight of the grain or by any amount of stirring I've done in my mashes.

Follow these two bits of advice and you'll be glad that you won't have to replace washers. And you won't try to convince yourself to buy one of those actual bazooka screens or a false bottom.

 

[user 213331]

I made the mash tun described by the OP using a five gallon Rubbermaid (Home Depot) and it works just as described.

Like others in the thread, I had difficulty finding 5/8" ID, Stainless Steel washers. So, I purchased large nylon washers with a 1/4" ID and just drilled them out with a 5/8" bit. Using the seal ring that came with the cooler and two of the nylon washers (all complemented with food-safe silicon sealer) on the inside and three close to 5/8" metric, zinc washers as the outside spacers, I was able to create a very tight, non-leak spigot.

I decided to make a second 10 gallon tun using the same set up. However, this one had a very slow leak. No matter what I tried, additional nylon washers, plenty of silicon sealer, the slow leak persisted.

I ended up finding another way to mount the spigot based on directions found on another web site. I just used a drilled cork (left over from my first one gallon starter brew kit). It fit quite snugly in the cooler spigot hole, and even more snugly once I shoved a 6" length of 3/8" ID, copper tubing through it. I fit the braided, stainless steel tubing over the copper tubing on the inside. Then using braided, high heat tubing and a couple of clamps, I connected a double barb PEX ball valve to the copper tubing on the outside. Added another length of plastic tubing to the ball valve.

It works great.

 

[DurtyChemist]

I just picked up two igloo coolers this week for $30. I was intending to do the Home Depot/Lowes build but looked through Amazon and found what I needed for great prices.

3 piece ball valve $19
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZC08F0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Bazooka Screen $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWCLVRO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Bulkhead $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHM38RE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quick Disconnect female $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEFHIK8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Quick Disconnect male $6.50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OF85I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

10' of 1/2 ID High temp food grade hose $14
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOV0MS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I believe shipping was all of $8 and not counting the gift cards I had it was about $60 for all this stuff. I don't NEED the hose for the mash tun so that would drop the price as well as the female QD but I'll use them with it and it was a combined order so I'm counting it.

I went with the quick disconnects because my step father has those for his pump and I figured I'd match it. It was also about the same price to buy anything else to attach into the ball valve. I believe they're $20 locally EACH so I wanted to jump on this. I had $45 in gift cards on my Amazon account so it ends up costing me $25. I'll have to buy another bulkhead, ball valve, and quick disconnect if I want to convert my other cooler into a HLT.


What kind of mash efficiency are people seeing with their cooler mash tuns? I was getting around 73% brewhouse doing BIAB so I'm hoping to stay there or go up. I can't really say I could effectively measure mash efficiency doing BIAB.

 

[user 213331]

I always seem to hit or exceed the recipe target OG with my mash tuns with a 60 - 75 minute mash (at 150 - 154 F) and two sparges using 180 F water.

I checked temp during the mash every 15 minutes the first few times I used the cooler mash tuns. They both held temp easily for the duration and I don't even bother checking now.

 

[Tactical-Brewer]

Picked up everything but the stainless steel washer (of course) but can get them up in the city. Also, I am trying to find some of the high temp hose to go inside the braided stainless steel line without success at lowes or my little home store. Any suggestions? I don't really want to buy it online and pay shipping and what not.

 

[Bobby_M]

Don't put tubing inside the braid. It negates the entire point of the mesh. If you want support, you want to wind a loose spring out of stainless or copper wire.

 

[Tactical-Brewer]

Just saw on here where the stainless steel hose clamps were getting corroded which is why I was thinking about doing it.

Other than that, what type of hosing are people using from the barb on the outside to their kettle and what not? High temp stuff or food grade polyethylene? Silicone tubing?

 

[mrgrimm101]

Just saw on here where the stainless steel hose clamps were getting corroded which is why I was thinking about doing it.

Other than that, what type of hosing are people using from the barb on the outside to their kettle and what not? High temp stuff or food grade polyethylene? Silicone tubing?

Standard clear PVC vinyl hoses only have a temp rating up to 140F.

For the tubing that drains the mash tun, high temp silicone is best, considering you are mashing at about 150-160.

For the tubing that drains from the kettle, I just use standard PVC. I use an immersion chiller to get it down to pitching temps, so it's only about 70F when I drain the kettle.

 

[bigken462]

Hey guys, I just ordered a Igloo 10gal round cooler to make a MLT. I failed to realize this has the press on lid rather than the screw on like the Rubbermaid.

For those of you using the Igloo brand, has there been any issues with the lids coming off while you were lifting these up to place on the platform?

The last thing I want is near-boiling water splashing out on my face as I lift it up. The Igloo was just under 45 bucks or so from Amazon. The RM's were about 73 or so. I'm thinking about just sending it back unless you guys use them without problems.

KT

 

[wilserbrewer]

I would fill the cooler in place if you need it at a height. I have found a one gallon pitcher ideal for moving sparge water or runnings a gallon at a time rather than trying to lift extreme weights. There is also no need to raise it that high, place the vessel you are running to on the floor, then raise the runnings a gallon at a time, or catch runnings in a couple buckets and empty them a few times. Moving 5-10 gallons at once can be sketchy for most. Placing your HLT 6 feet high so you can run Gravity is kinda silly IMHO rather just raise the batch in several lifts as you proceed.

The Igloo should be fine IMHO. I wouldn't incorporate lifting either with much inside.

 

[bigken462]

Wilser, a week ago Saturday when I bit off three batches, my back was starting to hurt early into the second brew. I chalked it up to just typical soreness, took some Aleve and brewed on. By the end of the 3rd batch, I could barely move the last carboy to the basement. Forget using a milk crate, I could never balance the front weight of the carboy being held in front of me so I risked it and used the carboy handle. By bedtime, I could barely walk. Eight days later, I'm still feeling it in my lower back. I have slept on a heating pad for 4 days. Ugg

If I could ever justify a brewstand I did that day. I collect wort in a 15 gallon pot sitting on the floor, then move to the burner, then pick the pots up and place it on the table before racking. I'm always a little sore, but never anything that last more than a day. Biting off the 3rd batch - especially when I had not even made a starter for it was foolish. Ultimately I think my impatience cost me about 3% ABV as the batch has still not made it below 1.020. By the time I was done cooling, I could almost just have poured it down the sink. Fun had done left the house. lol

All that said, if I can avoid lifting to the 6' height of the shelf, I will. I feel a pump might be on my next purchase list. Anyway, as for the cooler, I thought I was buying the same thing my Home Depot cooler was. Only when I zoomed in on the picture after I ordered it did I realize it was not the screw on lid. No wonder it was cheaper.

I'm looking forward to doing a true fly sparge. Until now, I've always set a aluminum turkey basting pan on top of the mash tun with a bunch of holes poked in it and using a water pitcher to keep filled. Nothing wrong with that technique as it works perfectly, just a PITA to keep filled.

To top the cake of bad luck with brewing setbacks, a cpl days ago as I was trucking across the property mowing with the mower set to the fastest speed, I hit a pine stump that was buried beneath some leaves. Had it not been for the steering wheel catching me, it would have thrown me over the front of the mower. Ultimately, I bent my deck, warped a blade and bent the drive spindle and my steering wheel. I feel like I was in a wreck now. lol

The cost to repair my lawn tractor will probably far exceed what a brew stand would cost. John Deere thinks a lot of their parts. Sad thing is, I was using a old set of blades just for the reason to find out where all the old stumps and rocks were at with this house that I just moved into. I got careless and in a hurry jamming to some 12bar blues.

Gotta love it when the crow stays on your 6. lol

 

[louis]

Hey FlyGuy! Glad I found your build, as I'm in Calgary and doing the same thing. Did you buy all your parts locally - I actually been having issues with HomeDepot - finding the brass lead-free parts that I need.

 

[WestMichBrewer]

I built one using a 5 gallon rubbermaid that I picked up used for $15. After a good soak with OxyClean the inside was good as new.

I got most of the fittings from Ace hardware locally after struggling with it Menard's. When I assembled, I found the 1 1/2" nipple way too long, even after adding a couple more washers on the outside. I exchanged it for a "close nipple" that is all threads and maybe about an inch long total.
This seems to have worked well with one SS washer on the inside and one fender washer on the outside. I was able to get a good tight fit that doesn't seem to leak.
It seems to be holding hot water without leaking, but I haven't brewed with this yet. I don't suspect I'll get different results than anyone else though.

 

[Sourz4life]

For anyone looking to do this target is having a sale on 10 gallon igloo's.

http://www.target.com/p/igloo-10-gallon-seat-top-beverage-cooler-with-cup-dispenser/-/A-10281492

 

[Sourz4life]

Also question to the OP, would http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZFRX3E/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 work for the SS washer. Also if I wanted to use a false bottom, I could just hook the tubing right to the nipple right?

 

[Tactical-Brewer]

Jamaral, it looks like a stainless steel washer. If you have a menards, go there and grab you a pack. They were cheap there

 

[user 213331]

I have had no trouble finding 5/8" ID SS washers on Amazon.

 

[msa8967]

Does the color of the plastic on the inside of a cooler matter when converting it to a mashtun? I know it needs to be white for a fermenting bucket. Thanks.

 

[Sourz4life]

So I built this today. I used one of the 10 gallon igloos. It took me like 5-6 times but I ended up getting it to not leak. I needed to use extra o rings to help seal it.

 

[LJvermonster]

Does the color of the plastic on the inside of a cooler matter when converting it to a mashtun? I know it needs to be white for a fermenting bucket. Thanks.

I would assume not. You are using a water cooler, correct? I would hope the plastic on the inside is foods grade safe and that max 185 degree water wouldn't affect the inside itself.