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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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Ok... thank you pie man...

I do have everything in front of me. unless I find smaller washers to compress the o ring , I see no use for it. What a drag that I can not see.
 
I just tried this out without the ss washer inside (couldn't find them anywhere)......definitely leaky. I saw a few of you said you ended up having to buy 5/8" ss washers in large quantities - I'd like to buy one or two from someone. Message me if you have extras, I'll pay postage of course!
 
Im about to start my first batch with this MLT and was wondering how many degrees over strike temp is it taking to preheat this thing? Please help! I'm heating water now
 
I was going to buy a 10 gallon round cooler but I just got a 5 gallon for free. It should be fine for my brews, I don't brew anything big. I read the first 100 pages awhile ago but can't remember, can I do the same parts / install on a 5 gallon?
 
verbhertz said:
I was going to buy a 10 gallon round cooler but I just got a 5 gallon for free. It should be fine for my brews, I don't brew anything big. I read the first 100 pages awhile ago but can't remember, can I do the same parts / install on a 5 gallon?

I did a 5 gallon using the original instructions using an orange igloo cooler. You may have to use more/less SS washers to get a good seal and be able to open the valve fully (I've read a lot of the posts and it seems that some coolers may differ in wall thickness depending on the brand and age of the cooler). Just buy extra washers and you should be good to go! I've brewed 3 AG batches in mine now...still dialing in and trying to figure out water temp differences for mash in etc but it's fun experimenting. Happy brewing!
 
JimCharb said:
I did a 5 gallon using the original instructions using an orange igloo cooler. You may have to use more/less SS washers to get a good seal and be able to open the valve fully (I've read a lot of the posts and it seems that some coolers may differ in wall thickness depending on the brand and age of the cooler). Just buy extra washers and you should be good to go! I've brewed 3 AG batches in mine now...still dialing in and trying to figure out water temp differences for mash in etc but it's fun experimenting. Happy brewing!

Great thanks! I'd like to brew big beers eventually but no need anytime soon. I'd rather make a tun, practice AG, then make a 10g+ when my process is airtight.
 
I'm seeing a lot of questions about the o-ring and leaks.

I use a rubber washer between the inside cooler wall and the first SS washer. A second one on the outside wouldn't hurt. The next piece which I think is key. Get some Teflon packing from your local hardware store. This stuff is used for packing of leaking valves. Cut a piece about 1 1/2" to 2" long, and wrap it around the nipple but inside of the rubber washer. You can stretch and mold it to the length and diameter you need. This will stop the flow of liquid coming out between the nipple pipe and washer. You can put a wrap on the outside as well. The packing will crush into the voids of the coller and washers, and thus stop the leak.

I would suggest trying to limit the twisting of the valve assembly, as I'm sure you have plenty if you have a lot of washers. If the packing is good, the twisting won't matter as long as the rubber and first stainless steel washers aren't turning and are packed well.

Cheers,

Tony
 
Im about to start my first batch with this MLT and was wondering how many degrees over strike temp is it taking to preheat this thing? Please help! I'm heating water now

Probably a little late for you, but just heat it up about 10-15 degrees above mash temp and let it sit without the lid if it needs to cool down before you mash in. Personally, I prefer to preheat with some of the water I'm preparing on the burner, so I don't have to wait for things to cool down. It also seems to be a bit nicer to the cooler, since a lot of hot water at once can deform the inner lining.

Another thing that people seem to be having trouble with is leaking. It's not in the original design, but I found that a 2"OD 5/8"ID NEOPRENE washer was a critical component to my mash tun between the inner wall of the cooler and the SS washer. Oddly enough, the cooler DID leak without the neoprene washer, but DID NOT leak with only the neoprene washer. In other words, the rubber washer was more important than the SS washer!!
 
Mine leaked until I added an oring between the inside washer and original rubber seal that came with the cooler.
 
I don't know what ... Nobody addressed the o ring question at all. I just left it out. No runs, no leaks, yet!

Some of us did...

I'm seeing a lot of questions about the o-ring and leaks.

I use a rubber washer between the inside cooler wall and the first SS washer. A second one on the outside wouldn't hurt. The next piece which I think is key. Get some Teflon packing from your local hardware store. This stuff is used for packing of leaking valves. Cut a piece about 1 1/2" to 2" long, and wrap it around the nipple but inside of the rubber washer. You can stretch and mold it to the length and diameter you need. This will stop the flow of liquid coming out between the nipple pipe and washer. You can put a wrap on the outside as well. The packing will crush into the voids of the coller and washers, and thus stop the leak.

I would suggest trying to limit the twisting of the valve assembly, as I'm sure you have plenty if you have a lot of washers. If the packing is good, the twisting won't matter as long as the rubber and first stainless steel washers aren't turning and are packed well.

Cheers,

Tony

Using just the O-ring solo is crap, and will leak into the guts of the cooler. That will be a hot mess long term.
 
I would think a 10 gallon cooler is a good minimum volume for your mash tun. Not that you couldn't use a 5 gallon, but 10 would allow you to handle heavier grain bills with less headache
 
verbhertz said:
The more I think about it, should I just use my 5 gallon cooler for an hlt and get a 10 gallon for mlt?

That's also what I did after researching and getting advice from some here and elsewhere. So far (3 batches) it's working well.
 
Putting together the tun for my bday in a week or two, so I'll just create the hlt then too. Then my first all grain brewday. I'll be all over this thread from now until then. I read the first 100 plus pages awhile ago but I didn't retain anything. Oh well, reading about beer doesn't get old.
 
I bought all the stuff and I wasn't overly happy with it & thought it just didn't feel super sturdy even though it was sealed so I returned the stuff and bought a weld less bulkhead kit from brewhardware.com as well as the 3 piece valve & nipples and I'm much happier. I actually also bought stuff to make a HLT and convert a pot to a brew kettle. Here are a few pics of the MLT & HLT. The MLT is a 10 gallon cooler from Lowes & the HLT is a 5 gallon cooler I already had. I still have to attach the DIY Bazooka screen to the MLT but I'm excited to try them out on my first all grain home brew!



image-72400206.jpg



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Ok, so this is probably a stupid question, but I've only been brewing for 6 mos so chalk it up to newbie. Isn't the point of the HLT to be able to heat water in it? If you're using a cooler you couldn't exactly put a fire to it. Good looking setup BTW.
 
Typically yes however I had the cooler already and it will keep h2o at very steady temp for a decent amount of time. I'll heat the h2o in a regular 5gal pot that I use when brewing kits and put it in the HLT. One day I'll buy another pot to turn into a traditional HLT but for now the cooler will have to do.
 
Right on, was just curious because others had previously mentioned doing the same thing. Couldn't figure how you guys were heating them. :)
 
hnsfeigel said:
Ok, so this is probably a stupid question, but I've only been brewing for 6 mos so chalk it up to newbie. Isn't the point of the HLT to be able to heat water in it? If you're using a cooler you couldn't exactly put a fire to it. Good looking setup BTW.

In a lot of home brewing setups (especially those using only one burner), the HLT is used to store the sparge water while the mash is happening, rather than heating up the liquor. At least that's how I see it.
 
I guess that's what threw me off, because I am used to being able to fire my HLT just in case my mash finishes a little low and I need a bump to mashout. I just like to understand how different setups work.
 
Thank you flyguy! I have been brewing all grain for the last year on my gas stove using 2 pots. Its been fun but messy! I know my system and actually get good efficiencies but I want to take it outside so after seeing your post I went to my local home depot for cooler and most parts and local small hardware store for some parts. It looks beautiful and doesn't leak. It cost me right under $100 and I can't wait to take it for a test run this week!
 
Flyguy,
Thanks for the article, put mine together last night! I followed your parts list and it all went together very well. I went to Lowes for my project, and the grand total was right at $75. Lucky for me the 10 gallon cooler was on sale for $38 as opposed to the listed price of $44.99.

I used it for a cream ale last night and all went well. I added four gallons of 165 degree water, then the grain. The temperature stayed at 155 for the entire hour. My only complaint is that it drains pretty slow. But seeing how my LHBS wanted $145 for the same thing, I don't mind waiting a couple extra minutes.

Thanks again!
 
I just wanted to add, that I could NOT find a ss fender washer in that size. So I had to buy a $13 bit for my drill press and enlarge another ss fender washer. If it wasn't for that the entire build time would have been 25 minutes... The washer took another 35 (the 5/8 bit was a little smaller than the 5/8 threads so I had to grind it down.)
 
pannell77 said:
Lowes around me didn't have the washes either but home depot did.

I had the same problem. If you check online you can find which HD had the create a bolt kit. The ones near me didn't have it so I went to fastenals and got a 10pk of ss washers . My cooler needed 7 or 8 total washers to work so I used the ss ones because I didn't get enough regular ones.
 
Found a hardware store with 5/8" stainless steel FLAT washers...anyone had luck with these? I guess the outer diameter isn't as big as a fender washer? The OD on these are 1-1/4". I think this might be large enough, but just thought I'd check. Couldn't readily find anyone else trying these when searching the thread.

EDIT: Sorry I take it back. I went deeper and found this post. Said they worked fine for him.
 
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