Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[eyedoctodd]

Hello all,

Brewed my first AG last weekend with the the 10-gal Rubbermaid and the 3/8 fittings mentioned at the start of the thread. Everything went fine with the 5/16 vinyl hose into the kettle.

My question (and pardon if this has been answered, I did search and found no solid answer) is if anyone has got the same 10-gallon cooler working with 1/2" fittings. I am soon upgrading to a Top Tier and wanting to go with the SS camlocks with 1/2" NPT all around (other than the females with hose barbs on the hoses) and wanted to make every connection possible the same 1/2" size.

I can't imagine the OD of a 1/2" diameter pipe nipple is too great to go through the standard hole on the cooler, though it raises questions about what to do with the "existing white gasket" that we save, or if that needs to be replaced with something larger.

Does anyone here have it piped with 1/2" and have an alternate parts list? Or can anyone provide a forum link if this has already been asked?

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[n8dagr8]

Hello all,

Brewed my first AG last weekend with the the 10-gal Rubbermaid and the 3/8 fittings mentioned at the start of the thread. Everything went fine with the 5/16 vinyl hose into the kettle.

My question (and pardon if this has been answered, I did search and found no solid answer) is if anyone has got the same 10-gallon cooler working with 1/2" fittings. I am soon upgrading to a Top Tier and wanting to go with the SS camlocks with 1/2" NPT all around (other than the females with hose barbs on the hoses) and wanted to make every connection possible the same 1/2" size.

I can't imagine the OD of a 1/2" diameter pipe nipple is too great to go through the standard hole on the cooler, though it raises questions about what to do with the "existing white gasket" that we save, or if that needs to be replaced with something larger.

Does anyone here have it piped with 1/2" and have an alternate parts list? Or can anyone provide a forum link if this has already been asked?

Thanks in advance!!!

I did mine with 1/2" ball valve and everything but when it came time for the SS mesh, I couldn't find anything the right size. I just used a smaller barbed fitting but left everything else the larger size.

 

[eyedoctodd]

Thanks n8dagr8 for your response.

In trying to figure out something for the inner gasket, I was looking at the Fastenal web site and while they don't have silicone gaskets, they have something called "gylon".

I looked it up and found this PDF about it: http://jameswalker.biz/system/pdf_docs/fichiers/42/original_James_Walker_Gylon_modified_PTFE_gasketing.pdf?1272627165

It says it's food safe, does not support bacterial growth, and safe for temps from -450F to +500F (my normal mash temp sits comfortably within this range ).

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience at all with this material, just wondering if it's got the flexibility to serve as an appropriate gasket in the mash tun to prevent leaks.

Thanks

 

[barrooze]

I haven't used that material, but I used this silicon o-ring on the outside of my boil kettle upon which I attached a 1/2" ball valve. Works perfectly. It could be used inside your mash tun, outside, wherever you like. Silicone O-Ring 13/16" x 1 3/16"

 

[n8dagr8]

Thanks n8dagr8 for your response.

In trying to figure out something for the inner gasket

I reused the one that came with the cooler, if that's what you are referring to.

Some of the other parts, well, I'm pretty lucky in that I have what can only be described as a fighter jet surplus parts store.

I'll try to take inventory of what all I used and post pictures.

 

[Tkelly32]

First off welcome to the forum
Second, what exactly is your problem? Just that the valve feels loose? I noticed that my factory gasket is larger on one side that the other. The smaller side will fit into the thru-hole, the larger side will sandwich up against the cooler wall. So I positioned the gasket so the larger side is facing the cooler wall and this worked well for me. However the valve still has a loose feel to it, though it doesn't leak a drop.

Cheers for the welcome brethren. :rockin:

The problem is that the rubber piece to the cooler keeps slipping out and it came out as I took the spigot out. I put water in it, and it leaked and also came apart when I attempted to open/close the ball valve. I may have had the rubber piece backwards (probably a little too eager to get mashing) however and am now waiting for the silicone seal to dry before I test it again. I can tell that it may have a loose feel like you are saying but still stay in place and not leak, thats all I am trying to achieve here but as it is it was falling apart and leaking like a sieve. I will keep you posted and let you know.

 

[bottlebomber]

Cheers for the welcome brethren. :rockin:

The problem is that the rubber piece to the cooler keeps slipping out and it came out as I took the spigot out. I put water in it, and it leaked and also came apart when I attempted to open/close the ball valve. I may have had the rubber piece backwards (probably a little too eager to get mashing) however and am now waiting for the silicone seal to dry before I test it again. I can tell that it may have a loose feel like you are saying but still stay in place and not leak, thats all I am trying to achieve here but as it is it was falling apart and leaking like a sieve. I will keep you posted and let you know.

It almost sounds like you don't have a washer on the inside of the cooler.

 

[Tkelly32]

It almost sounds like you don't have a washer on the inside of the cooler.

Right, it did seem as if I did not, however I did. I have 3 outside, 1 inside. So I waited for the seal to dry and then went to work. Much to my shagrin it popped right back off. I was still determined so I analyzed the situation and realized I had the rubber piece right the first time and a seal wasn't necessary the way I was trying to do it. Both outside and inside as you say where the washers were, were flimsy. Thus I scoped out my extra o-rings (heat resistant of course) and started plugging them in, I now have two inside and two outside in the spaces where the washers were failing. Now the washers are working and everything seems a go. Much tighter fit, and I can turn the ball-valve on and off with ease. Its late so I will test if it leaks or not in the morning but I feel pretty condifent it will not. I will post pics if the mission is successful. Thanks for the input and help, now I am off to have a Hacker Pschorr and then hit the hay :rockin:

 

[geepmaley]

So I just did my 10 gal round orange rubbermaid that I have had as a cooler for >10 yrs. Have done a couple all grain bathces with the manual valve and got tired of having to hold it to sparge.

Anyway, I looked at the various components and found the ID of the 3/8" nipple is roughly the same size as the ID of the 1/2" valve , whereas a 3/8" valve (which is actually more expensive than the 1/2" ??) has a smaller ID and acts as a potential choke point, so I decided 1/2" fittings might end up being better long term, but I still wanted to use the 3/8" nipple to take advantage of using the existing gasket from the cooler. I use a large mesh bag that is as big as the cooler for a screen so did not go with the braid

Here's what I did starting on the inside toward outside:

Inside
Brass Pipe hex bushing 1/2" MIP x 3/8" FIP (Watts A-828) $3.46 Home Depot (If you can find a 3/8" pipe thread lock nut easily (I could not), you could sub this, or a coupler. The bushing, leaves me with 1/2" threaded connection if I want to add something inside later. )
5/8" stainless washer $0.90 at Eliots Hardware (Plano TX)
3/8" x 1.5" nipple (Watts A-786) $2.75 Home Depot
existing white gasket from cooler

Outside
5/8' O-ring ($0.76) Eliotts
standard rubber hose washer (Free, had on on hand)
3x5/8" Fender washers ($0.46 each) Eliotts
Pipe Hex Busing 1/2" MIP to 3/8" FIP (Watts A-828) $3.46 Home Depot
1/2' Brass Ball Valve $7.32 Home Depot
Hose Barb 1/2" Barb x 1/2"MIP (Watts A385) $2.31 Home Depot

Total cost (without the cooler that I already had): $22.34 plus tax

Leak testing as we speak with 8 gallons of water. So far so good

 

[Hulud]

Well just finished mine now. I am currently leak testing it.

Thanks flyguy for the info, found everything at my local HD.

Now just gotta wait for Xmas to get the rest of my items so I can go AG

 

[Srceenplay]

I went to home depot and got my materials. Cut the ends off my braided line and it's not stainless steel. Hmm. Went back up there and the guy told me they aren't stainless and they don't make them like that. It's like some type of nylon.

 

[Hulud]

I went to home depot and got my materials. Cut the ends off my braided line and it's not stainless steel. Hmm. Went back up there and the guy told me they aren't stainless and they don't make them like that. It's like some type of nylon.

The HD by me has both. The nylon and ss so I don't know why one would carry but not the other store

 

[eyedoctodd]

I went to HD and specifically asked for Stainless. He said they only have it at Lowes.
But I did see a mash tun at the Homebrew store with the nylon braid. Seemed to work ok.

 

[bottlebomber]

They definitely have SS at HD, but instead of having them prominently displayed at eye level like the nylon ones they are just loose in a cardboad bin at ankle level. They are at my local one anyway.

 

[daveooph131]

I had trouble finding ss hose at my HD as well. I ended up buying a washing hose connection from HD that was ss. I think it might have cost more because the hose is longer but I've got some extra.

 

[Tkelly32]

Well, I tested her out and she was leaking, drip drop drip drop and I did some rearranging and leak-city. I am pretty sure the leak is the top of the rubber from the cooler I am going to get rid of the rubber and see what happens... quite frustrating. Wish me luck.

 

[Tkelly32]

No go, and then I tried to clean the space for the rubber that came with the cooler and fit it in again, its just too loose it is I believe pushing in when the ball valve has been added. How can I fix this leak? and make this work?

 

[Tkelly32]

Decided to silicone seal the outside of the exterior SS washers where it was dripping. Will update.

 

[Brickout]

Got mine built today and did a leak test. ALL GOOD!

All the SS parts came from bargainfittings.com

 

[Daver77]

Got mine built today and did a leak test. ALL GOOD!

All the SS parts came from bargainfittings.com

Nice!

Question:

Your batch sparging right?

What size is that?

 

[Brickout]

Yes, I plan on batch sparging for now.

It's only a 5 gal cooler. But for $21.88, it will do for now.

 

[Tkelly32]

That looks beast fam. I was going to go all stainless too but got the wrog parts so to speak. What are the pieces? here is my new and improved joint, not as pretty but now leakproof. I have a 1/2 stainless ball valve so any help in terms of extra parts let me know. blessings
<a href="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/ff7a6"><img src="http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/ff7a6.jpg"></a>

Got mine built today and did a leak test. ALL GOOD!

All the SS parts came from bargainfittings.com

 

[nukinfuts29]

Got mine built today and did a leak test. ALL GOOD!

All the SS parts came from bargainfittings.com

Well done!

 

[Brickout]

That looks beast fam. I was going to go all stainless too but got the wrog parts so to speak. What are the pieces? here is my new and improved joint, not as pretty but now leakproof. I have a 1/2 stainless ball valve so any help in terms of extra parts let me know. blessings

Your image wasn't showing, so I re-posted it for you.

Here's the bulkhead kit I went with. I went with the standard coupling as the inside fitting, 1.5" nipple, 3 piece SS ball valve, no hose barb and one extra SS washer. From the outlet of the ball valve I have a 1/2" street elbow attached to a 1/2" SS camlock F style fitting. Then I have a 1/2" SS camlock B style fitting attached to a 1/2" NPT female x 1/2" hose barb. Which is attached to the hi-temp tube with a hose clamp.

 

[eyedoctodd]

Just curious if there was a reason you went with a 1/2" SS camlock B style fitting attached to a 1/2" NPT female x 1/2" hose barb instead of just using a C style camlock fitting for the female hose end connections?

 

[Brickout]

Just curious if there was a reason you went with a 1/2" SS camlock B style fitting attached to a 1/2" NPT female x 1/2" hose barb instead of just using a C style camlock fitting for the female hose end connections?

Just personal preference really. I suppose if I change thing around in the future it will easier to re-use the part somewhere else.

 

[brew2enjoy]

Does anyone know if its ok to use a grade 5 washer instead of the stainless? I looked everywhere for the illusive stainless fender washer and can't find it without ordering online. I want to brew tomorrow. Hope its safe to use.

 

[TyTanium]

If its on the outside, I don't see a problem with it - it's not coming in contact with the wort. May rust faster, but you can just replace it.

 

[brew2enjoy]

No it would actually be the one on the inside that is in contact with the wort. I also found a neoprene rubber washer. I might try that if all else fails.

 

[CGVT]

Does anyone know if its ok to use a grade 5 washer instead of the stainless? I looked everywhere for the illusive stainless fender washer and can't find it without ordering online. I want to brew tomorrow. Hope its safe to use.

I used one a couple of times until I could find a stainless washer.

It hasn't killed me yet...

BTW, if there is an Ace Hardware nearby, you can get a stainless washer there.