Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[Zorin]

I used wire ties on mine with no problem.

I have had stuck sparges on my last two batches, though, and broke down and ordered a10" false bottom for $29.95. We'll see how that works out...

Where did you purchase your false botton from?

 

[CGVT]

HomeBrewStuff through Amazon. $29.50+ $5.35 shipping. It got to me in about 3 days.

Amazon.com: Stainless Steel False Bottom for Homebrew Pot: 10": Kitchen & Dining

 

[wmarkw]

Of course my fastenal was out of the 5/8 SS fenders. So they ordered some for me for $1.65 ea. got 4 of them. I guess I could have gotten by using zinc plated fenders on the outside? I didnt check this thread last night or I would have made a trip to HD to see if they have the bag of bolts/washers.

 

[chigundo]

I have a 10 gal igloo from a friend that I need to rebuild for use as a mash tun.. there's no parts at all leftover for the spigot... all these directions seem to require the original gasket that comes with the igloo.. what's the replacement part for that gasket if you don't have one to start with?

 

[edmanster]

I have a 10 gal igloo from a friend that I need to rebuild for use as a mash tun.. there's no parts at all leftover for the spigot... all these directions seem to require the original gasket that comes with the igloo.. what's the replacement part for that gasket if you don't have one to start with?

I made my gasket out of an old silicone baking sheet... That stuff is rated at 500°....

 

[barrooze]

I have a 10 gal igloo from a friend that I need to rebuild for use as a mash tun.. there's no parts at all leftover for the spigot... all these directions seem to require the original gasket that comes with the igloo.. what's the replacement part for that gasket if you don't have one to start with?

You can get a silicon o-ring from AHS or try using a garden hose gasket. I think I used one of those on my MLT. Pack of 10 from HD was real cheap.

 

[Geofferson]

So I've picked everything up to make this and I'm discovering some things. The fittings will only screw together half way. I've read this may be a feature of the threads being tapered. Which makes sense but threw me for a loop. Anyone else have this issue? Like half the threads still showing?

Second issue is with my kettle screen. I got a kettle screen that is a 3/8 fitting and is built really well and is awesome. Only problem is it is too long to properly fit in the cooler. I'm thinking I might be able to get it in and the screen will just have to bend a bit. Not sure yet.

 

[bottlebomber]

So I've picked everything up to make this and I'm discovering some things. The fittings will only screw together half way. I've read this may be a feature of the threads being tapered. Which makes sense but threw me for a loop. Anyone else have this issue? Like half the threads still showing?

Second issue is with my kettle screen. I got a kettle screen that is a 3/8 fitting and is built really well and is awesome. Only problem is it is too long to properly fit in the cooler. I'm thinking I might be able to get it in and the screen will just have to bend a bit. Not sure yet.

Can't help you with the screen, but as far as the threads, they are pipe threads. They are tapered so they create a seal as they are tigntened, so its not really an issue but just the design of the threads.

 

[LarryC]

I haven't read every page in this thread so my apologies if I missed it. Has anyone added a thermometer to this build? I saw some pictures from The Pol but it really wasn't clear to me what he had done.

 

[edmanster]

So I've picked everything up to make this and I'm discovering some things. The fittings will only screw together half way. I've read this may be a feature of the threads being tapered. Which makes sense but threw me for a loop. Anyone else have this issue? Like half the threads still showing?

Second issue is with my kettle screen. I got a kettle screen that is a 3/8 fitting and is built really well and is awesome. Only problem is it is too long to properly fit in the cooler. I'm thinking I might be able to get it in and the screen will just have to bend a bit. Not sure yet.

add a bushing on the outside thread of the cooler so the inside will seal up tight(like a 1/4'' long piece of pvc pipe or something making a sleeve or get a couple more washers)!!! as for the kettle screen i dont use that i need to build another one this weekend because my last one became brittle and i barely bumped the bulkhead fitting and the effer cracked Editinside the cooler on the bullhead) and started leaking!!!

 

[golphur]

I picked up four 5/8 stainless washers from Fastenal today to replace my zinc washers. They are a little under half as thick as the zinc versions. I had to use three stainless washers on the inside of the cooler and one stainless plus two zinc washers on the outside to get the same tight fit I had using only four total (one inside and three out) zinc washers.

I have the stainless washers inside the cooler whe it counts. I'll replace the outside washers with stainkess if they start corroding.

Just be aware that you may need more than four stainless washers if you order them from Fastenal.

 

[Spookgolds]

I got everything I needed from Lowes using the parts list at the beginning of this thread. The only thing I couldn't find was the washers. After much scouring online, I finally found them at fastenal. I bought the bag of 10 because i used 4 for this one, and if I ever have to do it again I won't have to run out looking for washers. I then put it all together and filled the cooler with water. Didn't leak a drop. I still have some more equipment to buy to convert to all grain, but I am getting really excited.

 

[bottlebomber]

I still have some more equipment to buy to convert to all grain, but I am getting really excited.

The only thing you really need is a 10 gallon pot with a valve and an extra ale pail.

 

[spenghali]

have you all just been essentially duplication the MLT and adding some tubing and a syphon spray for a sparge water tank?

 

[golphur]

Used my system for the first time today. I had it set up with the vinyl tubing inside of the braid. When I added the strike water and preheated my tun it was still a little hot so I stirred the water to help cool it before adding grain. When I stirred, the brass plug fell off of the end of the vinyl tube. I had already bought the stainless clamps, just in case. Glad I had them. I wound up clamping the brass plug and it worked with no problems. We'll see if I get any corrosion after a couple of uses.

 

[Arkador]

I have one of these in my attic. Loved it untill i upgraded to a keggle with an electric HERMS.

 

[downtown3641]

I just put mine together today. I used zip ties instead of hose clamps. It doesn't seem to be leaking at all. I checked the temperature twice about an hour apart. I lost one degree, but that was without preheating the tun or wrapping it with a blanket. It should work nicely. I can't wait to put it to use. I just have to decide what to brew. I'm thinking about breaking it in with a double IPA, but I may choose something a bit simpler so I don't blow as much money if I completely screw up.

 

[wmarkw]

Used my system for the first time today. I had it set up with the vinyl tubing inside of the braid. When I added the strike water and preheated my tun it was still a little hot so I stirred the water to help cool it before adding grain. When I stirred, the brass plug fell off of the end of the vinyl tube. I had already bought the stainless clamps, just in case. Glad I had them. I wound up clamping the brass plug and it worked with no problems. We'll see if I get any corrosion after a couple of uses.

I thought you were supposed to use the stainless steel braid and discard the plastic pvc tube???

 

[downtown3641]

I thought you were supposed to use the stainless steel braid and discard the plastic pvc tube???

He's probably using separate notched food-safe, heat resistant tubing.

 

[bottlebomber]

I thought you were supposed to use the stainless steel braid and discard the plastic pvc tube???

You're correct... the hose gets thrown away and the stainless casing is what gets used.

 

[messrock]

Second issue is with my kettle screen. I got a kettle screen that is a 3/8 fitting and is built really well and is awesome. Only problem is it is too long to properly fit in the cooler. I'm thinking I might be able to get it in and the screen will just have to bend a bit. Not sure yet.

If you got a bazooka screen you need to fold the end a couple of times. Use a pair of pliers, flatten, flatten, fold (about 1/4" each flatten/fold) and it will fit.

 

[hough77]

Are the SS washers that can be found online different or better than the SS washers that Menards sells? I bought 2 packages of them they say Stainless Steel right on the package.

 

[wmarkw]

I cant for the life of me to get this thing tight. I have been at it for about an hour and have used vice grips. The ball valve does spin but I got the female barb about as flush as I can against the washer and now I'm hoping I didnt crack the plastic as I can feel a slight indention. I have tried to firm up my ball valve to the 3 washers on the outside but I'm having issues. So for those that have completed this, is it supposed to be tight i.e. no spinning at all or a little spin is good? frusssstrated! lol

 

[wmarkw]

Ok I found a little 5/8 funky washer that snugged up to the fender on the outside of the cooler and now I can hand tighten it and it doesnt turn as bad lol. go figure. although I mangeld up the female barb nut thing pretty good inside the cooler, not the nipple. That shouldnt matter right?? Ok time to finish it up. sheesh. oh and i took everything apart and i did not crack the inside of the cooler thankfully

 

[wmarkw]

Well of course i have a little drop leak and looking at the inside washer its not completely flush to the cooler. But that thing is a mother to tighten unless I'm doing something wrong. I did wrench tighten the ball valve to the washers on the outside but i still have some rotation but not nearly as bad as before. I'm done for the night and will take it apart and re-do it this week. Sorry for all the posts!

 

[MikeG]

I cant for the life of me to get this thing tight. I have been at it for about an hour and have used vice grips. The ball valve does spin but I got the female barb about as flush as I can against the washer and now I'm hoping I didnt crack the plastic as I can feel a slight indention. I have tried to firm up my ball valve to the 3 washers on the outside but I'm having issues. So for those that have completed this, is it supposed to be tight i.e. no spinning at all or a little spin is good? frusssstrated! lol

Mine spins freely, no leakage in 3 years. Overtightened can cause a leak.

 

[wmarkw]

Damn! Now that I know what I'm doing (I think) I'm gonna take it apart tomorrow and re-do it. I think the seal that came w/ the cooler isnt set properly. Thanks

 

[bottlebomber]

Damn! Now that I know what I'm doing (I think) I'm gonna take it apart tomorrow and re-do it. I think the seal that came w/ the cooler isnt set properly. Thanks

That's what I was going to recommend you look at. On mine, one side of the stock gasket is larger diameter than the other. I faced that side (the larger one) against the wall of the cooler, with the gasket against the smaller side.

 

[bovineblitz]

Damn! Now that I know what I'm doing (I think) I'm gonna take it apart tomorrow and re-do it. I think the seal that came w/ the cooler isnt set properly. Thanks

Mine wouldn't work, I picked up a neoprene washer to replace it.

 

[postalbunny]

The valve is going to be able to spin. Your tightening the barp and ball valve to.the section of pipe that's just floating I.side the cooler's original rubber bushing. You can get it tight, but too tight and you may squeeze that rubber bushing.

I put an extra few orings on.each side and just tightened it snug, then checked for leaks. 2 batches later and no issues.