Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[bovineblitz]

I think you will find that at least 4 of those degrees were lost in the first 10 minutes, with the other 2 drifting over the length of your test. When I do a mash in this thing after preheating it I barely lose a half degree over an hour. That is strange about the water being cooler at the top, since heat rises.

The thermal mass is all in the bottom where the grains collect, it's denser so holds temperature better.

 

[bottlebomber]

The thermal mass is all in the bottom where the grains collect, it's denser so holds temperature better.

I don't think the grains are denser than water... Taking a scientific angle, they are probably insulating and restricting the heat from transferring upward if anything. Now I'm really geeking out on this though, and want to get a thermometer with a 18" probe to find out.

 

[wmarkw]

Ok I'm new to all grain and I have like 3 1 gallon batches under my belt. What does this do exactly? I am going to read this entire thread but I have seen pics of these gatorade coolers and I'm lost.

Do you dump the grains into the cooler after you mash out and then do the sparge process by dumping the hot water into the cooler and let it steep in the MLT? Then transfer to your primary? Sorry big Newb here.

 

[elementfiftyfour]

Ok I'm new to all grain and I have like 3 1 gallon batches under my belt. What does this do exactly? I am going to read this entire thread but I have seen pics of these gatorade coolers and I'm lost.

Do you dump the grains into the cooler after you mash out and then do the sparge process by dumping the hot water into the cooler and let it steep in the MLT? Then transfer to your primary? Sorry big Newb here.

The quick answer is that you put your dry, cracked grains in the mash tun. Dump the hot water over them at the desired temp and volume. Let the grains steep to extract the sugars for the wort, usually 60 mins. Drain the wort from the mash tun into your brew kettle through a filter and then you begin your boil. By filter I mean something like the stainless steel mesh or hose braid that is only intended to keep the grains from flowing out into your brew kettle.

There is obviously quite a bit more going on in the mash tun and you can do multiple adds of water at multiple temperatures to achieve the desired result for your particular recipe. You can learn about all that on many of the other technique and recipe threads though.

Cheers,

 

[lizardeye]

Nothing wrong with being a Newb.

This vessel is where the mash rest takes place, and it also serves as your lautering vessel. You put your grains and (heated) mash water in here, close the lid and let it rest for whatever length of time your recipe calls for. At the end of your mash rest you drain the wort out through the ball valve into your kettle, add your (heated) sparge water, wait about 10 minutes and drain that out into your kettle, too. I don't know if that answers all of your questions, but I hope it helped!

 

[wmarkw]

Awesome makes sense now. I think I can do this. Then once the mash & sparge are done then you go ahead and do your normal boil, add hops, etc. Sounds like a mess free process. One of the instructions I have said to mix the mash every 10 mins or so. So I assume this step isnt necessary? Just keep the lid close, take an occasional temp? Then if the temp falls below where you want it then add some more hot water? I assume these coolers retain heat well for the 60-75 mins.

Thanks dudes!

 

[bottlebomber]

Awesome makes sense now. I think I can do this. Then once the mash & sparge are done then you go ahead and do your normal boil, add hops, etc. Sounds like a mess free process. One of the instructions I have said to mix the mash every 10 mins or so. So I assume this step isnt necessary? Just keep the lid close, take an occasional temp? Then if the temp falls below where you want it then add some more hot water? I assume these coolers retain heat well for the 60-75 mins.

Thanks dudes!

They retain heat extremely well. You will usually only lose somewhere around 1-2 degrees, but if its a larger mash not even that much. A word of advice though, add the water first, not the grains. If you add water that's about 170, let it sit in the tun for 10 minutes, it will preheat the walls nicely and your dough-in will be much more stable temp wise. This technique will make your temp a little high at first, but you can stir, wait a minute, add a little cool water maybe and you're golden. Its WAY easier to adjust down with this system than up. Going up is a pain.

 

[weaksauce]

I am in the middle of building one of these cooler tuns with the 10 gallon cooler from home depot. I basically built it to match the original instructions. I have a couple quick questions that I wasn't able to locate the answers to in the 187 pages of this epic thread.

Will zipties work to attach the braid to the plumbing? I saw someone say that is what they used them but I haven't seen any updates as to how it is holding up. I tried some stainless steel cable ties that I picked up at lowes but was unable to get them tight enough.

Is it normal for all the fittings to spin freely? I tightened as best I could but I can still spin the plumbing easily. I don't think I am leaking but it just doesn't seem too sturdy. I am not sure if I can get things taken apart again to add another washer if that is what I have to do.

Hopefully I can get this put together for my first all grain session on Sunday.

Thanks.

 

[bottlebomber]

^^ I can spin my setup freely, and it holds water tight. Used it 12 times so far without a drip. Why don't you want to use SS hose clamps?

 

[Brickout]

FYI - For those of you wanting to build a 5 gal version. Lowes has them for $21.88. I just got mine today.

 

[theveganbrewer]

I've done 3 batches in here and my temps are needing altering everytime, either with ice or more boiling water. I've reached and held temps after alterations to the initial water. I think it is the "Initial Mash Tun Temperature" setting in beersmith. What is everyone putting their temp at, default 72? I tried preheating and I tried without, had better results without because beersmith was calibrated to 72. What is the initial temp of a preheated cooler?

 

[weaksauce]

^^ I can spin my setup freely, and it holds water tight. Used it 12 times so far without a drip. Why don't you want to use SS hose clamps?

I am weary of the ss hose clamps after the OP had trouble with them rusting. I checked with my local boating store but none of their ss clamps are small enough for what I need. Have you had any luck with the ss clamps yourself?

 

[CGVT]

I used wire ties on mine with no problem.

I have had stuck sparges on my last two batches, though, and broke down and ordered a10" false bottom for $29.95. We'll see how that works out...

 

[mistercameron]

I am weary of the ss hose clamps after the OP had trouble with them rusting. I checked with my local boating store but none of their ss clamps are small enough for what I need. Have you had any luck with the ss clamps yourself?

I've been using them no problem. Just make sure you clean and remove them to air dry when you're done with the brew day. I even did a few tests ahead of time by soaking them in water for a day or two to see of they would rust easily. They didn't. Even if they did start rusting, they are pretty cheap and easier to deal with than zip tie removal, IMO.

 

[bottlebomber]

I am weary of the ss hose clamps after the OP had trouble with them rusting. I checked with my local boating store but none of their ss clamps are small enough for what I need. Have you had any luck with the ss clamps yourself?

I've got to think they were nickle-plated non-SS clamps somehow. We use the SS ones in the machine shop, and they are put through all kinds of hell. Never once have I seen one rust. The ones in my MT are fine as well.

 

[bovineblitz]

My clamps don't rust, they said SS on them so I figured they were fine... and they are!

 

[lizardeye]

Zip ties have worked fine for me and I've been using my setup for almost a year. Not syre why removal would be hard, you just have to snip them with a pair of wire cutters or scissors.
As for the freely spinning connections, mine have a little wiggle to them, but they don't spin. Of course, I used a slightly shorter nipple to go through the side of the cooler.
I've hit my target temps pretty consistently when I preheat my mash tun by filling it with hot tap water. I just run the water until it's at it's hottest and fill up the tun. Let it sit until my mash water is almost to tem and drain through the ball valve. Never had a mash that I missed the temp on by more than a degree or so.
I've also done overnight mashes in this with a cheap sleeping bag wrapped around it and lost about 4 degrees in 8 hours. I did make one modification, though. I drilled a small hole in each segment of the top and filled it with Great Stuff to insulate the top a little better. Works wonders.

 

[slightlyoffbeat]

I've done 3 batches in here and my temps are needing altering everytime, either with ice or more boiling water. I've reached and held temps after alterations to the initial water. I think it is the "Initial Mash Tun Temperature" setting in beersmith. What is everyone putting their temp at, default 72? I tried preheating and I tried without, had better results without because beersmith was calibrated to 72. What is the initial temp of a preheated cooler?

What I do is I heat my water to about 5-8 degrees hotter than what i need, throw it in the MLT, and close the lid. I let the MLT heat up for a bit. Then I take the lid off and let it cool off to the temp i need (~165ish). Then I add grains. My MLT is based on the design from this thread. I can hold my temperature without dropping a single degree for an hour.

 

[mistercameron]

What I do is I heat my water to about 5-8 degrees hotter than what i need, throw it in the MLT, and close the lid. I let the MLT heat up for a bit. Then I take the lid off and let it cool off to the temp i need (~165ish). Then I add grains. My MLT is based on the design from this thread. I can hold my temperature without dropping a single degree for an hour.

That's a pretty good idea. I may try that this weekend even though I'm not brewing to see how much of a change I get and how fast. I'm also curious to see how well my partial lid insulation works (ran out of expanding foam) vs using a down comforter.

 

[golphur]

Wow, great instructions. It took me 5 times longer to find and buy the parts as it did to actually do the build. Thanks for posting.

Like others, I was only able to find 5/8 fender washers in the build-a-bolt package at Home Depot. And they are Zinc, not stainless. I'll check Ace tomorrow. And who knew, I have a Fastenal about five miles from my house. Only open M-F though.

 

[bottlebomber]

Wow, great instructions. It took me 5 times longer to find and buy the parts as it did to actually do the build. Thanks for posting.

Like others, I was only able to find 5/8 fender washers in the build-a-bolt package at Home Depot. And they are Zinc, not stainless. I'll check Ace tomorrow. And who knew, I have a Fastenal about five miles from my house. Only open M-F though.

The zinc washers are fine for a few brews, but they will start to oxidize quickly. You can at least try out the system though.

 

[wmarkw]

Lol; got everything I needed at Lowes yesterday too but the 5/8" Fender Washers. I also have a Fastenal down the street and yup closed on Saturday! Will check on Monday.

 

[Reno_eNVy]

Yup, got my SS fenders at Fastenal... so cheap, too. I think they were $0.60 each.

 

[poislb]

Dont know if this has been said before but Menards carries the SS washers, cheaper than most suppliers too, or at least in my neck of the woods..

 

[golphur]

Went back and re-read the post about using vinyl tubing instead of clamps and saw the note about braided stainless being able to support the weight of mash and water. I felt that my braid was rather flimsy and even questioned how it could be steel. Turns out, I had polyurethane braided supply line. I just took whatever the guy at HD handed me. Glad I checked!

Quick trip to Lowes. Bought a confirmed stainless braid. Recut. Back in business. Now I just need those elusive washers.

 

[AussieBrewerInColorado]

Went back and re-read the post about using vinyl tubing instead of clamps and saw the note about braided stainless being able to support the weight of mash and water. I felt that my braid was rather flimsy and even questioned how it could be steel. Turns out, I had polyurethane braided supply line. I just took whatever the guy at HD handed me. Glad I checked!

Quick trip to Lowes. Bought a confirmed stainless braid. Recut. Back in business. Now I just need those elusive washers.

yeah mine crapped out on first mash, not sure what it was, said stainless but moved to a bazooka type kettle screen and worked good. only one stuck sparge but that was with a decoction brew.

 

[n8dagr8]

Just finished mine...used 1/2" ball valve but ended up having to downsize the supply side (mash) because of the mesh tubing. Might work on getting back up to the larger size later. Will post parts if I do.

FWIW, the washer that comes with the cooler works with a 1/2" brass nipple, just takes some work.

 

[postalbunny]

Did this conversion, worked like a charm. If you have trouble locating o-rings then check the faucet repair isle.

Also, for the SS washer... they all seem to stock an SS washer just one size to small. I bought them and drilled them out to fit, they wee also a slight bit skinnier than the zinc ones which aided in sealing against the cooler inside.

 

[Markd27]

Wow, great instructions. It took me 5 times longer to find and buy the parts as it did to actually do the build. Thanks for posting.

Like others, I was only able to find 5/8 fender washers in the build-a-bolt package at Home Depot. And they are Zinc, not stainless. I'll check Ace tomorrow. And who knew, I have a Fastenal about five miles from my house. Only open M-F though.

Just an FYI, I wonder if some have missed the stainless create a bolt kits at HD, as my HD has zinc and stainless versions of each kit. I actually almost missed them initially, and notice them after a second look. See the pic below, notice the "stainless steel" marking on the 5/8" package on the left is kind of hard to pick up on.

 

[beetlo]

I ended up needing 4 washers on the outside to keep it from spinning. This is for the 5 gallon Rubbermaid. It looks a little funny, but it doesn't leak.