CGVT
Senior Member
That is the same hose I used.
Yes, it can collapse.
Yes, it can collapse.
That is the same hose I used.
Yes, it can collapse.![]()
I just built my 10 gallon version of this (after having been using the 5 gallon version of it). I don't forsee myself making larger than 5 gallon batches any time soon, but I recently made a big (1.08+) baltic porter and really taxed the mashing capacity of the 5 gallon and made a nice mess. The 5 gallon will now serve as my HLT for my sparge.
THAT said - the reason I'm posting is two-fold.
1.) A LOT of people seem to be having trouble finding 5/8" washers in SS.
Get THESE from Home Depot - you need one of each kit:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&Ntpr=1&ddkey=Search
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&Ntpr=1&ddkey=Search
The stainless go on the inside, the zinc on the outside. You will need to sort of adjust where the nipple sits, but you want less of it inside than out, so you have enough clearance for the ball valve. It still only needs 1 SS washer inside and 3 zincs outside.
2.) I bought this hose for my SS braid kind of by accident:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...925582&cj=true&cm_mmc=CJ-_-3925582-_-10368321
I actually shopped online, had everything put together for me and I picked it up at my HD and didn't have to hunt for anything. Perfect shopping experience. When I got home, I found this GIANT supply line. Well, turns out to be a great thing. You can absolutely shrink it to the size of the nipple and hose clamp it on neatly by simply stretching it a bit. And it is MUCH stronger than the 1/2 inch braid. I don't know if it will be possible to have this collapse like I've seen reports of on the 1/2 inch.
Thanks again Flyguy.
dulavjo said:in John palmers book how to brew, on page 294 explains how to build a stainless steel braided ring. he says to use a 24 inchX 1 inch diameter water heater hose. is that the right size? how do you slide the 1 inch 1/2 dia copper tubing over the braided tubing and the 5/8 compression ferrules are they going to fit? is the braided tubing 24" by 1/2 maybe. who has built this. please help
bottlebomber said:We've all built this. What is your question? Are you trying to ask questions about Palmer's MT in a thread that is about making a different MT? Just follow the directions. It's been made very simple.
in John palmers book how to brew, on page 294 explains how to build a stainless steel braided ring. he says to use a 24 inchX 1 inch diameter water heater hose. is that the right size? how do you slide the 1 inch 1/2 dia copper tubing over the braided tubing and the 5/8 compression ferrules are they going to fit? is the braided tubing 24" by 1/2 maybe. who has built this. please help
Can you tell me where you bought this cooler? I'm Canadian too but I was not able to find this size.
Thanks!
dulavjo said:simple. have you built this circle system? at the store looking at the components it does not look like it will fit together. I have been to 6 plumbing stores and there is no 1 inch braid, it comes in 3/4 inch. sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I thought someone would be helpful if they built this exact lautering system
dulavjo said:simple. have you built this circle system? at the store looking at the components it does not look like it will fit together. I have been to 6 plumbing stores and there is no 1 inch braid, it comes in 3/4 inch. sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I thought someone would be helpful if they built this exact lautering system
I don't understand why people wouldn't use a bazooka screen for $5 more than the SS braided hose costs. You can get one from bargain fittings for $17, it is rigid, and it has a 1/2" male fitting that screws directly into a ball valve.
I don't understand why people wouldn't use a bazooka screen for $5 more than the SS braided hose costs. You can get one from bargain fittings for $17, it is rigid, and it has a 1/2" male fitting that screws directly into a ball valve.
Home Hardware carries them, at $82 Canadian. If you live close to the border I suggest making a day trip to the States to get one for $40 US and you can pick up some good, cheap beer and some Hostess Fruit Pies while you're there, too.
You can thank me for the fruit pies later. Best food ever.
Hmmm...apparently they're $22
http://www.bargainfittings.com/inde...t&keyword=screen&category_id=0&product_id=171
Which is $16 more than i paid for the SS braid.
I think the other appeal of the braid is that you can pick it up locally and don't have to wait for the online order to show up. Although if I get another collapsed braid, I will be ordring one.![]()
How much grain are we talking about to collapse the braid?
I have a 5 gallon Rubbermaid that I have yet to use. That size MT can realistically really only handle about 12 lbs of grain...will/can that weight collapse a SS braid?
Nick
I'm not sure how you guys are collapsing these braids... I've had this thing completely packed several times now, stirring it like a bad boy and the braid still looks perfect. Is it possible that you're smashing the braid with your mash paddle somehow?
I'm not sure how you guys are collapsing these braids... I've had this thing completely packed several times now, stirring it like a bad boy and the braid still looks perfect. Is it possible that you're smashing the braid with your mash paddle somehow?
I've made a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermade mash tun and have found that the 10 gallon doesn't hold heat nearly as well as the 5 gallon version. It's not a headspace issue either, I typically fill them to the top with water and grains. The 5 gallon cooler typically lost about 2 degrees during the 1 hour mash and I've noticed the 10 gallon loses a good 6 degrees during a one hour mash. Anyone else notice this?
steinsato said:I've made a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermade mash tun and have found that the 10 gallon doesn't hold heat nearly as well as the 5 gallon version. It's not a headspace issue either, I typically fill them to the top with water and grains. The 5 gallon cooler typically lost about 2 degrees during the 1 hour mash and I've noticed the 10 gallon loses a good 6 degrees during a one hour mash. Anyone else notice this?
mistercameron said:I did a test this past weekend and the 10 gal Rubbermaid lost about 5-6 degrees an hour over the period of a few hours with about 5 gallons of mash temp water. What I found most interesting is that the water near the top was much cooler than water at depth.
Next brew I think I'll do the blanket cover. I also need to look into expanding foam into the lid.
I think you will find that at least 4 of those degrees were lost in the first 10 minutes, with the other 2 drifting over the length of your test. When I do a mash in this thing after preheating it I barely lose a half degree over an hour. That is strange about the water being cooler at the top, since heat rises.
I want to build this setup, but with 1/2" fittings instead.
Anybody have a parts list for this? Particularly the O-Ring and fender washers I will need?