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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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I just built my 10 gallon version of this (after having been using the 5 gallon version of it). I don't forsee myself making larger than 5 gallon batches any time soon, but I recently made a big (1.08+) baltic porter and really taxed the mashing capacity of the 5 gallon and made a nice mess. The 5 gallon will now serve as my HLT for my sparge.

THAT said - the reason I'm posting is two-fold.

1.) A LOT of people seem to be having trouble finding 5/8" washers in SS.

Get THESE from Home Depot - you need one of each kit:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&Ntpr=1&ddkey=Search

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&Ntpr=1&ddkey=Search

The stainless go on the inside, the zinc on the outside. You will need to sort of adjust where the nipple sits, but you want less of it inside than out, so you have enough clearance for the ball valve. It still only needs 1 SS washer inside and 3 zincs outside.

2.) I bought this hose for my SS braid kind of by accident:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...925582&cj=true&cm_mmc=CJ-_-3925582-_-10368321

I actually shopped online, had everything put together for me and I picked it up at my HD and didn't have to hunt for anything. Perfect shopping experience. When I got home, I found this GIANT supply line. Well, turns out to be a great thing. You can absolutely shrink it to the size of the nipple and hose clamp it on neatly by simply stretching it a bit. And it is MUCH stronger than the 1/2 inch braid. I don't know if it will be possible to have this collapse like I've seen reports of on the 1/2 inch.

Thanks again Flyguy.

The 2nd pack you linked to comes with 4 washers, so you just need that one pack and I'd suggest picking up a single 5/8 fender washer (zinc) in case you need 4 on the outside like I did. The fender washers are available everywhere in 5/8, it's just the SS that's difficult to find.
 
in John palmers book how to brew, on page 294 explains how to build a stainless steel braided ring. he says to use a 24 inchX 1 inch diameter water heater hose. is that the right size? how do you slide the 1 inch 1/2 dia copper tubing over the braided tubing and the 5/8 compression ferrules are they going to fit? is the braided tubing 24" by 1/2 maybe. who has built this. please help
 
dulavjo said:
in John palmers book how to brew, on page 294 explains how to build a stainless steel braided ring. he says to use a 24 inchX 1 inch diameter water heater hose. is that the right size? how do you slide the 1 inch 1/2 dia copper tubing over the braided tubing and the 5/8 compression ferrules are they going to fit? is the braided tubing 24" by 1/2 maybe. who has built this. please help

We've all built this. What is your question? Are you trying to ask questions about Palmer's MT in a thread that is about making a different MT? Just follow the directions. It's been made very simple.
 
bottlebomber said:
We've all built this. What is your question? Are you trying to ask questions about Palmer's MT in a thread that is about making a different MT? Just follow the directions. It's been made very simple.

simple. have you built this circle system? at the store looking at the components it does not look like it will fit together. I have been to 6 plumbing stores and there is no 1 inch braid, it comes in 3/4 inch. sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I thought someone would be helpful if they built this exact lautering system
 
in John palmers book how to brew, on page 294 explains how to build a stainless steel braided ring. he says to use a 24 inchX 1 inch diameter water heater hose. is that the right size? how do you slide the 1 inch 1/2 dia copper tubing over the braided tubing and the 5/8 compression ferrules are they going to fit? is the braided tubing 24" by 1/2 maybe. who has built this. please help

Why not just buy a 1/2" water heater hose and a SS spring, shape into a ring, and attach both ends to hose barbs coming off of a T?
 
Can you tell me where you bought this cooler? I'm Canadian too but I was not able to find this size.
Thanks!

Home Hardware carries them, at $82 Canadian. If you live close to the border I suggest making a day trip to the States to get one for $40 US and you can pick up some good, cheap beer and some Hostess Fruit Pies while you're there, too.

You can thank me for the fruit pies later. Best food ever.
 
dulavjo said:
simple. have you built this circle system? at the store looking at the components it does not look like it will fit together. I have been to 6 plumbing stores and there is no 1 inch braid, it comes in 3/4 inch. sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I thought someone would be helpful if they built this exact lautering system

Look back a couple pages and the build I did. I started out with Palmers idea and got frustrated with parts not fitting right. I modified it and am very pleased with how it came out. BTW, I used a 3/4" SS hose. Never could find a1" that long.


Link to my build ideas:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/index173.html#post3259141
 
I don't understand why people wouldn't use a bazooka screen for $5 more than the SS braided hose costs. You can get one from bargain fittings for $17, it is rigid, and it has a 1/2" male fitting that screws directly into a ball valve.
 
dulavjo said:
simple. have you built this circle system? at the store looking at the components it does not look like it will fit together. I have been to 6 plumbing stores and there is no 1 inch braid, it comes in 3/4 inch. sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but I thought someone would be helpful if they built this exact lautering system

No I haven't, I've built the system for this thread that you are posting in. It was easy, you even have the exact part numbers which is amazing, and it works great.
 
I don't understand why people wouldn't use a bazooka screen for $5 more than the SS braided hose costs. You can get one from bargain fittings for $17, it is rigid, and it has a 1/2" male fitting that screws directly into a ball valve.

I think 'cos most people (myself included) use 3/8" fittings for these MLT conversions?
 
Home Hardware carries them, at $82 Canadian. If you live close to the border I suggest making a day trip to the States to get one for $40 US and you can pick up some good, cheap beer and some Hostess Fruit Pies while you're there, too.

You can thank me for the fruit pies later. Best food ever.

Hummm... fruit pies!! Thanks!
 
I think the other appeal of the braid is that you can pick it up locally and don't have to wait for the online order to show up. Although if I get another collapsed braid, I will be ordring one. ;)
 
I think the other appeal of the braid is that you can pick it up locally and don't have to wait for the online order to show up. Although if I get another collapsed braid, I will be ordring one. ;)

How much grain are we talking about to collapse the braid?

I have a 5 gallon Rubbermaid that I have yet to use. That size MT can realistically really only handle about 12 lbs of grain...will/can that weight collapse a SS braid?

Nick
 
I'm not sure how you guys are collapsing these braids... I've had this thing completely packed several times now, stirring it like a bad boy and the braid still looks perfect. Is it possible that you're smashing the braid with your mash paddle somehow?
 
How much grain are we talking about to collapse the braid?

I have a 5 gallon Rubbermaid that I have yet to use. That size MT can realistically really only handle about 12 lbs of grain...will/can that weight collapse a SS braid?

Nick


I'm not sure how you guys are collapsing these braids... I've had this thing completely packed several times now, stirring it like a bad boy and the braid still looks perfect. Is it possible that you're smashing the braid with your mash paddle somehow?

I don't think it was the weight of the grain. I used a longer hose from a water heater and it curled in the cooler a bit. I think that I probably pulled on it with my mash paddle and caused it to constrict just short of the nipple. I haven't had a problem since I shortened it up. I also wire tied it over the entire fitting, flush with the cooler wall to try to keep it a little wider at the fitting.
 
I've made a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermade mash tun and have found that the 10 gallon doesn't hold heat nearly as well as the 5 gallon version. It's not a headspace issue either, I typically fill them to the top with water and grains. The 5 gallon cooler typically lost about 2 degrees during the 1 hour mash and I've noticed the 10 gallon loses a good 6 degrees during a one hour mash. Anyone else notice this?
 
I'm not sure how you guys are collapsing these braids... I've had this thing completely packed several times now, stirring it like a bad boy and the braid still looks perfect. Is it possible that you're smashing the braid with your mash paddle somehow?

I think it's really more of an issue over time due mainly to stirring. My first braid was fine for about 10 brews then started getting all stretched and oddly shaped. It worked fine and I didn't really worry about it. Then one day I decided to change how my braid sat in there and figured I'd get a spring to put in the braid to ensure it'll last forever.
 
I've made a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermade mash tun and have found that the 10 gallon doesn't hold heat nearly as well as the 5 gallon version. It's not a headspace issue either, I typically fill them to the top with water and grains. The 5 gallon cooler typically lost about 2 degrees during the 1 hour mash and I've noticed the 10 gallon loses a good 6 degrees during a one hour mash. Anyone else notice this?

I lose about a degree in mine (rubbermaid) and I can see that some of the insulation is a little warped. Do you cover your lid with a heavy blanket/couple of towels? I do that every time and the towels actually get a little warm so I assume it makes a big difference.
 
I have a 10 gallon rubbermaid. I have only done 4 batches in it but have never lost more than 2 degrees over a 60 minute mash. I don't cover with blankets but I am brewing outside in Florida so the outside temperature is relatively high.
 
I haven't covered my lid with blankets yet. I'll try that next time and may even wrap one around the sides. It's been in the 60s the last couple times I used it. And after only 3 batches, the inside is pretty warped.
 
I want to build this setup, but with 1/2" fittings instead.

Anybody have a parts list for this? Particularly the O-Ring and fender washers I will need?
 
steinsato said:
I've made a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermade mash tun and have found that the 10 gallon doesn't hold heat nearly as well as the 5 gallon version. It's not a headspace issue either, I typically fill them to the top with water and grains. The 5 gallon cooler typically lost about 2 degrees during the 1 hour mash and I've noticed the 10 gallon loses a good 6 degrees during a one hour mash. Anyone else notice this?

I did a test this past weekend and the 10 gal Rubbermaid lost about 5-6 degrees an hour over the period of a few hours with about 5 gallons of mash temp water. What I found most interesting is that the water near the top was much cooler than water at depth.

Next brew I think I'll do the blanket cover. I also need to look into expanding foam into the lid.
 
mistercameron said:
I did a test this past weekend and the 10 gal Rubbermaid lost about 5-6 degrees an hour over the period of a few hours with about 5 gallons of mash temp water. What I found most interesting is that the water near the top was much cooler than water at depth.

Next brew I think I'll do the blanket cover. I also need to look into expanding foam into the lid.

I think you will find that at least 4 of those degrees were lost in the first 10 minutes, with the other 2 drifting over the length of your test. When I do a mash in this thing after preheating it I barely lose a half degree over an hour. That is strange about the water being cooler at the top, since heat rises.
 
I think you will find that at least 4 of those degrees were lost in the first 10 minutes, with the other 2 drifting over the length of your test. When I do a mash in this thing after preheating it I barely lose a half degree over an hour. That is strange about the water being cooler at the top, since heat rises.

That is strange, but what I considered was that with half of the cooler being air with an uninsulated lid, I figured heat was escaping out the top more than the sides and bottom. And by cooler, it's no more than a degree. The thing about my tests is that I had that 5 gallons sitting there in the cooler for about 4 hours. It was by no means scientific, but I had just done a brew where I lost about 4-5 degrees over the hour, so I wanted to see what the cooler was actually losing without my interference. Turns out it was about the same.

What I've been doing to preheat is to make strike water and fill the MT for 10-15 minutes.... to then empty it back into the HLT and reheat. I think that's losing me a few degrees right there. Instead, I think I'll leave half the hot water in the MT and reheat in the HLT as needed to bring it back up. Any fine temp control can be done by adding small amounts of hot/cold water, stirring, etc.

Edit: Here's an earlier post where somebody has filled the lid with expanding foam - seems like that + wrapping in blankets helps:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ch...lt-conversion-23008/index153.html#post2754307
 
I want to build this setup, but with 1/2" fittings instead.

Anybody have a parts list for this? Particularly the O-Ring and fender washers I will need?

I'm doing one with all 1/2" fittings and a rectangular cooler but I can post the parts list when it's done if that would be helpful.

As far as the washers/o-rings go I'm using the 3/4" ones. I couldn't find the washers in stainless steel so i tried to just use them on the outside but I'm not sure it's gonna work. The size seems right though.
 
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